My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[erfinder]

Hey Machine,

My 911 Electric Golf Car Design? 0-60 MPH in two hours?... ...Yeah, not seconds, until I install the Imperial Asymmetric...






It is based on a Club Car Aluminum Chassis...Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber Body...


Regards


Ufopolitics

WOoooooow. That thing is too cool, is it yours? When are you going to install your motor in it?


Regards

[Ufopolitics]

Hello

Hey kogs, good luck with that, .

I finally finished getting my ring mounted on that small build I was working on.

Now I can take my plates to get turned. Hopefully Tuesday. I'll give my bud a call tomorrow, about your dual rotor design, may have to do some wheeling and dealing myself.


Hey, UFO, do you still have any of your custom golf carts, I have two friends who own golf course. That's 2 golf courses. They wanted to see some pics of your work? If you still sell them.

later

Hey Machine,

Please post videos of that little build when done!

On the Dual Rotor Imperial, we do not need such sophisticated bridge design like I originally posted...

[IMG][/IMG]

After designing the Three Pole Dual...I realized just another set of laminates without the poles would do...in order to simplify design plus reduce co$t$.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

This way much easier to cut on waterjet...we could use long fine bolts/nuts at common areas to Inner-Outer rotor to secure the whole assembly.


My 911 Electric Golf Car Design? 0-60 MPH in two hours?... ...Yeah, not seconds, until I install the Imperial Asymmetric...






It is based on a Club Car Aluminum Chassis...Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber Body...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Back in Action with forum spirits

Dear UFOPOLITICS and Team,

Namaste. I am sorry for my previous post which does not add any value to this valuable thread. Please ignore it.

I am back to work. Earlier I wound the motor(1 hp with 15 poles) wrongly and tried. By the time I received the drawings by UFO, I started winding it in multiple of 5 design and didn't visit our forum for about a month. Later I studied the drawings that UFO has given. I understood my mistake. Despite that I continued with that wrongly wound one. It didn't deliver the required results, naturally as it's not the design of UFO.

Now I unwound everything and started rewinding. I finished 13 poles so far and winding wire finished .
Will get it tomorrow and complete the balance.

Kogs,

In my motor's case, the manufacturer's winding was with 23 SWG and number of turns was 300. So in my earlier trial I went with the same. I used 23 SWG and maintained the number of turns per pole at 20 (thinking that 15 poles X 20 turns per pole i.e.,300 turns - matching the manufacturer's number of turns) . But the pair was not having the required ohms. When I was checking the earlier winding with 23 SWG, it was showing .8 to 1 ohm per coil. I ignored the meter's internal resistance. Later I checked into my meter by shorting the leads. It was showing .4 ohms. Means that 23 SWG was in fact only .4 to .6 ohms - not meeting our requirements.

So far I understood that when we are winding UFO machine, it is the resistance that matters. Means the amount of wire (weight of copper) present. And of course proper care should be taken on selecting the gauge of wire keeping in view its current carrying capacity.

Now this time, I moved to 25 SWG. I took slightly above 18 meters of 25 SWG per pair. This gives a res of about 1.5 to 1.6 ohms. The number of turns coming is about 21-23 per pole (this is only indicative. as the rotor gets filled with the wire, the number of turns comes down). When I was checking the res, it's 2 ohms in meter. And from it once the meter's internal res (.4 ohms) is removed, it would be 1.6 ohms per pair. Hope this resistance is OK.

Friends, will complete the winding tomorrow and start posting the results by tomorrow evening, delayed most by Tuesday.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[machinealive]

Hello

Hey kogs, good luck with that, .

I finally finished getting my ring mounted on that small build I was working on.

Now I can take my plates to get turned. Hopefully Tuesday. I'll give my bud a call tomorrow, about your dual rotor design, may have to do some wheeling and dealing myself.


Hey, UFO, do you still have any of your custom golf carts, I have two friends who own golf course. That's 2 golf courses. They wanted to see some pics of your work? If you still sell them.

later

[Ufopolitics]

G'day UFO and thanks for your Post here a bit of light for me.

I have always understood that an armature has Poles and we wind one Pole P1 and it is made up of 2 Half poles one South half and one North half and when we wind we were always Number of turns per North or South half of this pole SO HERE IS where the light comes in
The p1 is really Pair 1 and P2 is Pair 2.

An Armature has Poles, in the case of Imperial, it has 28 poles total.
Yes, P1 stands for Pair One, containing Two Coils in series, one North one South, where each Coil grabs, wraps around Seven Poles.

I remember some time ago on another forum that it was mentioned that when measuring coils we need to take into account the internal resistant measurement of the DMM.
I can see from your post and it makes sense to me and the above advice must be wrong.

Well am not saying it is right or wrong to measure DMM's resistance...what I for sure can tell you, is that I have not been measuring it before, so, when I have said my Pairs have 0.9, that means what I have read straight from DMM.

I just now took a 1 ohm metal film resistor and read the value with my 3 DMM,s
The first a Vichy DMM the resistor measured 1.3 the internal resistance =0.2
The other 2 Dick Smith DMM's resistor was 1.4 the internal resistance -0.4

I also measured the 3 coils/Pairs I wound on the Imperial P56
The Vichy DMM read 0.7 Ohms
the first Dick Smith was 0.7 and the second one was 0.6

UFO my friend I will continue winding this armature with the AWG18
and will wind another with Bifilar .6mm diam.

Kindest regards

Kogs still trying hard

That's great, 0.7 ohms is just fine...always consider that resistors are also not that precise on Milli ohms...so one could be 1.2 and other, same batch, be 1.3...

Like I wrote before...Do not worry friend, that Imperial is gonna kick the sh**T out of Machine's one...


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Hello Kogs,

What I said was that IF the Bifilar would end up in similar or equal turns as the single wire...then go single
BUT, if the Bifilar was much larger number of turns than Single, then go Bifilar.

Hope your choice came after realizing the above...

Ok, you mean 3 Pairs, not Poles, so you did P1, P2 and P3...and 15 turns is excellent!



Something wrong there friend...DMM=2 Ohms, Total Resistance=6 Ohms, so 6 minus 2=4 Ohms and not 2 Ohms at Pair...BUT, still, there is something wrong...you must have near 1.0 Ohms per Pair of Coils or around 0.9 to 0.7 Ohms and not 4 Ohms.

Check with another DMM...besides, honestly I never heard of DMM Internal resistance though... ...when I set my DMM's to measure resistance they give me the already physical reading from whatever component am measuring, without doing any extra adding or subtracting...but make sure you have low resistance capabilities on DMM...like 200 ohms or lower the more precise reading.

I recommend to get a One Ohm Resistor...and measure it with DMM...See what you get...and go from there



My Imperial read around 0.8 to 0.9 per PAIR (not Pole... )

Machine Alive Imperial went from 0.7 to 0.6 Ohms but He used like 19 awg

You are doing just GREAT!...I am sure these are DMM issues, errors...Your Imperial is gonna kick some A**!!...


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO and thanks for your Post here a bit of light for me.

I have always understood that an armature has Poles and we wind one Pole P1 and it is made up of 2 Half poles one South half and one North half and when we wind we were always Number of turns per North or South half of this pole SO HERE IS where the light comes in
The p1 is really Pair 1 and P2 is Pair 2.

I remember some time ago on another forum that it was mentioned that when measuring coils we need to take into account the internal resistant measurement of the DMM.
I can see from your post and it makes sense to me and the above advice must be wrong.

I just now took a 1 ohm metal film resistor and read the value with my 3 DMM,s
The first a Vichy DMM the resistor measured 1.3 the internal resistance =0.2
The other 2 Dick Smith DMM's resistor was 1.4 the internal resistance -0.4

I also measured the 3 coils/Pairs I wound on the Imperial P56
The Vichy DMM read 0.7 Ohms
the first Dick Smith was 0.7 and the second one was 0.6

UFO my friend I will continue winding this armature with the AWG18
and will wind another with Bifilar .6mm diam.

Kindest regards

Kogs still trying hard

[machinealive]

Hey kogs

The motors I wound last, had 25 turns of 20.5 ga. I think each coil was like
1 - 1.2 ohms.

Midas it will be interesting to see imperials testing results.

Machine

[Ufopolitics]

One More thing...

G'day UFO and Team
I did as UFO suggested and wound with the thicker wire not thinner bifilar.
I have finished winding 3 Poles on My P56 Motor I wound it with AWG18 which is 1 mm diam. I wound each half pole with 15 turns which makes 30 turns for each pole I measured the Ohms on my DMM and it read 2 Ohms I then read each Pole on my motor and it read 6 Ohms each minus the DMM Ohms = 2 Ohms for each Pole.

Could all those who wound these Imperial motors Please tell me what was the Ohms for each pole on their motors.

Kindest Regards


Kogs gradually getting there.

Hello Again Kogs,


One more thing Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

Make sure you attach the right pair of commutator elements (remember there are 56 elements, so Two per pair) to P1 just like I show above diagram and from there everything would be fine with the rest.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Resistance on PAIRS

G'day UFO and Team
I did as UFO suggested and wound with the thicker wire not thinner bifilar.

Hello Kogs,

What I said was that IF the Bifilar would end up in similar or equal turns as the single wire...then go single
BUT, if the Bifilar was much larger number of turns than Single, then go Bifilar.

Hope your choice came after realizing the above...

I have finished winding 3 Poles on My P56 Motor I wound it with AWG18 which is 1 mm diam. I wound each half pole with 15 turns which makes 30 turns for each pole.

Ok, you mean 3 Pairs, not Poles, so you did P1, P2 and P3...and 15 turns is excellent!

I measured the Ohms on my DMM and it read 2 Ohms I then read each Pole on my motor and it read 6 Ohms each minus the DMM Ohms = 2 Ohms for each Pole.

Something wrong there friend...DMM=2 Ohms, Total Resistance=6 Ohms, so 6 minus 2=4 Ohms and not 2 Ohms at Pair...BUT, still, there is something wrong...you must have near 1.0 Ohms per Pair of Coils or around 0.9 to 0.7 Ohms and not 4 Ohms.

Check with another DMM...besides, honestly I never heard of DMM Internal resistance though... ...when I set my DMM's to measure resistance they give me the already physical reading from whatever component am measuring, without doing any extra adding or subtracting...but make sure you have low resistance capabilities on DMM...like 200 ohms or lower the more precise reading.

I recommend to get a One Ohm Resistor...and measure it with DMM...See what you get...and go from there

Could all those who wound these Imperial motors Please tell me what was the Ohms for each pole on their motors.

Kindest Regards


Kogs gradually getting there.

My Imperial read around 0.8 to 0.9 per PAIR (not Pole... )

Machine Alive Imperial went from 0.7 to 0.6 Ohms but He used like 19 awg

You are doing just GREAT!...I am sure these are DMM issues, errors...Your Imperial is gonna kick some A**!!...


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

G'day UFO and Team
I did as UFO suggested and wound with the thicker wire not thinner bifilar.
I have finished winding 3 Poles on My P56 Motor I wound it with AWG18 which is 1 mm diam. I wound each half pole with 15 turns which makes 30 turns for each pole I measured the Ohms on my DMM and it read 2 Ohms I then read each Pole on my motor and it read 6 Ohms each minus the DMM Ohms = 2 Ohms for each Pole.

Could all those who wound these Imperial motors Please tell me what was the Ohms for each pole on their motors.

Kindest Regards


Kogs gradually getting there.

[Midaztouch]

UFO motor bidding price

Too Cheap?...Ok, so how many did you and Midas want again?

Machinealive

Here are my thoughts:

1.) It's a Prototype motor that takes about 34hours of touching to hand build it!

2.) It can run a 6kw generator @ 48v ~ 60v(up to wire gage) no problem

3.) EV applications; electric motorcycles, small ev cars, go karts...etc (perfect for 250cc class motorcycles = most sold and currently on the road world wide)

4.) It has the capability to run on 2 channels for ECO mode; charge back the battery pack and extend range\highway driving. (It looks like it's better than regenerative braking!) *WOW FACTOR*

5.) I've haven't found a motor in the same weight that comes close to the efficiency. From UFOs homemade torque test, this motor would be considered by National Electrical Manufacturers Association(NEMA) in the Super Premium Efficiency class(IE4) = $$$$$!
*NOTE* Hopefully we will have official lab test results soon.

6.) Asymmetric Imperial motors are super rare! Less than 10 handmade motors on the planet. Your motor is number two and it's been in all the YouTube test videos!

Conclusion: The bidding has started at $2000 for the #2 Asymmetric UFO Imperial prototype motor By: Machinealive......

*HINT* I feel as though a regular UFO motor should start @ $3600, if it was in production phase. If it's efficiency rating is in the IE4 class by NEMA from lab testing, It would be a lot more$$$$$

Here's a chance to buy a Cutting Edge Technology that you can't buy off of the shelf. Good luck with your bidding ladies and gentlemen


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[machinealive]

Sorry, I've been really busy this week, and I had to think a bit on this,...deal.

In Other News,

I thought a lot higher than $2000!

Yes, I believe Midaz is right...too cheap man!

Too Cheap?...Ok, so how many did you and Midas want again?

I can do all the refitting in shop. Maybe I'm a little quicker with the winding.
A couple people did email me and I'll answer general here, you can email me again if I forgot something.

I really don't want to wind any generators, because that was a lot of work, and I was never happy with something, either wire ga, you know just not something I would want to sell, plus the brushless alte is not price matchable.

But motors, yeah, at 60v @ 24amps, I spun the alte 3600 rpm, with 400 watt load, in my video. That's all I can tell anyone, that's as far as I got.

Check out the scariac

The Scariac (Poor Mans Variable Power Controller) - YouTube

I'm sure have enough parts and ideas now to get something geared up, to test limits, eventually.

That also wasn't the price of motor, you would have to either buy from imperial and get it shipped to me, or I do that and I get a down payment, for price of motor.

I thought you were going to build one of the Imperials as a Dual Rotor System?!

I am going to use an imperial for the big gen, but I can get another one wound, I was just saying, I have one here now, but used, and worked on, you know.

So, the UFO deal. Hmmm,.. have you looked up companies to see if there is a stator size already, we could use. I stop in the motor shop and check now and then, in the scap pile, no luck so far. I would have to get a quote, and go from there. The owners are young, and like racing, and the thoughts developing products, they have water jet, and a brand new 3d printer. I will have to talk to them.

As soon as I was able, I was going to take my plates to have a laminated drum turned (too big for my lathe). Then I can finish the big gen.

But you know I have been more then a little distracted, a few ideas that I can't seem to shake off, and until I finish building a couple other things to test, I think I'm useless for much else, except doing things I already have an understanding in, like the motors I already have built. You know what I mean, I need to finish this.

We will finish this build, UFO, that design looks great, BTW.

Edit: btw it was $450.00 CND shipped to my door, last time.

machine

[ajaya999]

Zara,

Are you going to release a film that runs silver jubilee ?

[ajaya999]

Let's take it to the next level - Making UFO Machine from Scratch

Dear Sir and Team ,

Namaste.

After completing the post I understood it's not in order. Please excuse me for this as it's written in some aggravated and agonized moods.
( don't have enough energies to repost it in proper order and presentable language )

Please read...

Have been going by the thread last 3 days and making notes as well (topic-wise) on discussions. Will try making a complete document (already making ) with the questions and answers by respected UFOPOLITICS and other learned members. I am also keeping the relevant links to the posts so that the reader can directly land in that particular post. So far done about 50 pages of the thread.

Before that I surfed across the thread several times. Please note just surfed. But I understood the biggest issue and so far unsolved issue here is the coil gauge. Nowhere it has been standardized with respect to using a particular gauge as our machines are not confined to any particular conventional built.

Now I want to present here my approach. I want to maintain the same gauge (as given by the manufacturer of motor) and the resistance of about 1 ohm as directed by respected UFOPoLITICS) per coil. This demands more room in the armature slots/poles, which is not available if we try winding on the motors we have. Let's not forget that what we are building here is not rebuilding that lousy motor. We are building a UFO MACHINE, not a motor. It has its own demands. Let's not compromise to bring this unique and wonderful machine out - having put in so much of effort, moneys, time and other resources besides the private life of us and our near and dear.

Friends, I don't know whether you are with me in this idea. But I'm going ahead. I'm going to leave experimenting with this 1 hp 15 pole lousy motor. I call it lousy as I think and strongly believe that it is limiting the powerful designs of UFO with its narrow slots in which that witch has been living in for decades. The angels cannot live in narrow and clustered places. They need more room and sufficient open areas to roam freely and happily.

I am going today itself to my workshop to make a design where all the coil sits happily without compromise which I call a red carpet for the angel to get in and happily move around.

I believe I will never face heat of the witch where the angels roam.

If I hurt any of you because of this emotional driven ( not science driven) post, please excuse me. Please correct me f I am wrong on topic I mentioned here.

Dear Sir, I will never leave a space for the witch to enter my UFOMACHINE for silly compromises. Yes I call it silly to compromise on that cluttered stinking narrow slots of the witch, sorry for the unparliamentary words, but please let me as I'm very much agonized over our compromises. As I told you I surfed the thread several times just to understand proper coil configuration like gauge and number of turns and other aspects of it. I couldn't get a solid and confident reply for any questions on that.
I know that you have an answer already with you for those questions.

I know you were looking for more replications those days in the beginning of this thread so that people will understand your machine's concepts and stop speaking ill of your machine (in future) as several replicators would already post their experiences. I know you looked for more replicators so that future builders of your machine should be able to do this without fear , worry and tension. Dear sir, it is accomplished. I am the living example. I never tried replicating your machine on those tiny motors as I didn't belong to the first gen here. By the time I's in, it forwarded a lot. It traveled so much where it didn't leave a scope of doubt for me about its efficacy and that drove me to take it up straight on 1 hp motor.

I know people won't replicate if you ask them to build such a machine from scratch for their good own reasons.

But sir, those days are over. Who remained here are a very few of the batch 1 people and I don't know I'm from which batch but I am also here.

Correct me if I wrong. We'll build it from scratch. We'll give it a measurement Unit of our own. I named it already. THE UNIT IS CALLED UFO or UP.

I think we need to look into this and create some new parameters with respect to the machine capacities, like how conventional motors designed for a particular HP. Please forgive me if I am crossing my limits. But I strongly believe that we NEED to give it some measurement - I mean OUR OWN MEASUREMENT. Let's bring in a gauge called UFO ( i already named it like HP) We need not prove anything here to anybody about the efficacy of UFO machines. Again I apologize for this initiation. Anybody can not and shouldn't bring in any sort of comparisons.

Let the naysayers research to arrive at the conversion constants with other areas of Physics.

We are not bothered.

Friends, need to take a break as I am very much in agitated moods. Give me a short break. I'll settle mentally and come back again to post my next course in detail.

Regards and Namaste


Kumar

[Zara]

Asymmetric 10 Pole

Yeah I think I figured this out... Here is my first asymmetric 10 pole motor. More to come.


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