Use for the Tesla Switch

[ldissing]

Leroy,
You did not offended me on anything.
JB

Thanks JB,

Makes me feel somewhat better. I'm thinking about just bowing out until I can get home...don't know when that will be and...do some more tests. All I can do is "think", because I can not "do" at the moment. But that is dangerous too, doing is better. I have a problem with the way I speak, like I know everything and it pisses people off, but I don't actually mean it that way. It is just who I am, so I try to keep myself in check, but every once in a while...it just comes out again.

I did get some nice rectifiers today <50ns and 35 amp, so I'm ready....if I ever get home.


Leroy

[Murlin]

Hi Murlin, these are the ones I have been using;
497-2737-5-ND DIODE SCHOTTKY 100V 8A TO-220AC.

Thank you very much

PS...I am very impressed with your digital version...

I'm interested in the mechanical switch, still building the bigger one.

Oops. It totally escaped me that while electrical, relays are still basically mechanical.

Perhaps I should have said "commutator style" , because I seem to be the only one building that type ATM

It is truly amazing how many hits this thread gets...

Thanks again guys...

regards,

Murlin

[Murlin]

Steve, again you can only be the judge of this as I have given my recommendations on why I do what I do. I'm just saying that you must look at what the parts can handle, then I choose what works the best for me after testing under circuit load. charts below for the three devices.
JB

Thank you so much for your charts and schematics, Mr Bedini. It is much appreciated. I am learning allot from you guys.

This thread has so much information in it. It is hard to absorb.....I am almost positive though as I put more info up there in the "Ole Memory Banks" something falls out.... I just hope its nothing good..



Regards,

Murlin

[stonewater]

steorn replication of Bedini Monopole

Shame on them..... what a crock of bull..... I hope the world will realize what a thief he is.

Tom C

[Plazma]

Question on the Optos

Hi Bits,

Thanks for posting the components list for your PICAXE board and all
of the details - a really nice implementation -

Probably in my own ignorance of the H11D1 optos, when I look at the
schematic I seem to miss a current limiting resistor in the return path
that limits current to the Opto irLEDs. I see you use resistors like 330ohm
to protect the indicator LEDs (1&2). Yet, the return path(s) from the H11D1s
seem to come straight back to vss on the PIC, close to where the reset button terminates. Am I missing or misinterpreting something here - if so, please pardon the intrusion - don't mean to nitpick on a really nice effort.

Cheers,

Plazma

[StevanC]

Steve, again you can only be the judge of this as I have given my recommendations on why I do what I do. I'm just saying that you must look at what the parts can handle, then I choose what works the best for me after testing under circuit load. charts below for the three devices.
JB

Mr. John,
Thanks a million!

A. MJ15024 - the device isn't rated above 100V @1A at all - no one can guarantee it will do 1A at all over 100V
B. The MJL4281 is rated to 25C at junction - we don't want it to be much hotter than 25C at it's case as we know it's junction will most probably top that while under load (=work). So I understand why You point out the 30C working temperature: we don't want to have much of the performance derated by a higher thermal load on the device?
C. The MJL21194 has only its 1sec plot but it is representing the ability at 150C at junction - the 21194 wins "hands down" by over 100C

By far the most "thug" we can buy?

Thanks again!
Stevan C.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi Bits,

Thanks for posting the components list for your PICAXE board and all
of the details - a really nice implementation -

Probably in my own ignorance of the H11D1 optos, when I look at the
schematic I seem to miss a current limiting resistor in the return path
that limits current to the Opto irLEDs. I see you use resistors like 330ohm
to protect the indicator LEDs (1&2). Yet, the return path(s) from the H11D1s
seem to come straight back to vss on the PIC, close to where the reset button terminates. Am I missing or misinterpreting something here - if so, please pardon the intrusion - don't mean to nitpick on a really nice effort.

Cheers,

Plazma

Thanks Plazma, I haven't used them in the past, however that doesn't mean they may be needed. I will take some measurements and make sure. Thanks for pointing this out.

Bit's

[StevanC]

Over the top?

I'm not sure if this one BJT is more "thug" than the MJL?

But it looks like the NJW21194's 1A stretches up to 200V

Is this device is really just a thermally enhanced MJL?

Best regards,
Stevan C.

[eternalightwithin]

Leroy,

I have come to a strange conclusion that switching is everything.

I believe that if the switch is developed to use ground currents we are all home free. You may think I'm talking in riddles again but I'm very committed to what I do in this field. I will only post information that I think will help everybody here.
JB

Very Profound statement, Mr. Bedini. Stubble and Earth batt people take notice.

[ldissing]

Thank you very much

PS...I am very impressed with your digital version...




Oops. It totally escaped me that while electrical, relays are still basically mechanical.

Perhaps I should have said "commutator style" , because I seem to be the only one building that type ATM

It is truly amazing how many hits this thread gets...

Thanks again guys...

regards,

Murlin

Go back and look at what Matthew is doing. He is the mechanical master on commutation, etc. on this list (besides JB). AND, I'm not even sucking up, that is a fact.

Leroy

[Murlin]

Go back and look at what Matthew is doing. He is the mechanical master on commutation, etc. on this list (besides JB). AND, I'm not even sucking up, that is a fact.

Oh, well, I stand corrected....

Sure looks like I have come to the right place then.

MR Bits...got my order of Shottsky's... Sounds like a sandwich...

going to start soldering them in circuit tomorrow.

I am thinking this is the schematic I should use now ?

I don't see the bridge or the caps but am also guessing they are in there at the appropriate places.

Someone please stop me if I am wrong... Otherwise if it goes boom I guess I will know soon enough...

I have my batteries enclosed if that scenario takes place...Keeping fingers crossed.

"I don't know where I'm goin', but there ain't no use in bein' late"
Mathew Quigley

regards,

Murlin

[ldissing]

Oh, well, I stand corrected....

Sure looks like I have come to the right place then.

MR Bits...got my order of Shottsky's... Sounds like a sandwich...

going to start soldering them in circuit tomorrow.

I am thinking this is the schematic I should use now ?

I don't see the bridge or the caps but am also guessing they are in there at the appropriate places.

Someone please stop me if I am wrong... Otherwise if it goes boom I guess I will know soon enough...

I have my batteries enclosed if that scenario takes place...Keeping fingers crossed.

"I don't know where I'm goin', but there ain't no use in bein' late"
Mathew Quigley

regards,

Murlin

There I go again...didn't mean it in a bad way. Matt has been doing commutation on TS for a long time, that is all.

Leroy

[Murlin]

There I go again...didn't mean it in a bad way. Matt has been doing commutation on TS for a long time, that is all.

No worries dude....

It's all good. I am just messing around with thing. If I get it to work it's going to be by sheer luck.

But hey, you never win the lottery if you never buy a ticket....

regards,

Murlin

[ldissing]

No worries dude....

It's all good. I am just messing around with thing. If I get it to work it's going to be by sheer luck.

But hey, you never win the lottery if you never buy a ticket....

regards,

Murlin

You still working with the commutation, or are you trying to create the circuit that you put in your post? If it is commutation, then you probably know that you don't need any of those devices, except the rectifiers for the bridge if you want DC instead of AC. So, I'm confused as to what you are trying to do...maybe I missed a post or two. If it is the circuit with transistors, diodes, etc., that you are trying to duplicate then you can just put the rectifiers where it says AC and convert it to DC (if you want to run DC). Maybe a cap on the bridge in parallel to the load.

Leroy

P.S. I didn't take a good look at the circuit. If it was posted by JB, and is his circuit, it will work. If it is someone elses, then I can't say. If it is the brandt circuit, then it will work too, I believe.

***EDIT Looks like the brandt circuit without bridge and caps. See JBs circuit which is updated and has all the goodies. ***EDIT

[mklimesh]

Soa

Hi Steven and all

This article sheds some light on why the 21194's
work so well

"fT (Current Gain bandwidth Product): This is directly related to device gain and also to the device physical base width (wb). Most of the audio transistors in the industry have high fT (~30MHz), the trade-off is SOA performance with high voltage conditions. ON Semi Power Base Technology (which is unique in the market) has low/medium fT devices (8 to 12MHz) devices like the MJL21193/94 which have excellent SOA above 100V, these devices have wider Bases and also some unique "base spreading resistor" design which make them extremely rugged, used by most high end audio manufacturers."

Semiconductor Safe Operating Area

I've been building Johns circuits for 10 years now, you won't go wrong listening to his recommendations (+_+)

Mike Klimesh