Use for the Tesla Switch

[ashtweth]

Hi Dave, nvisser , Matt and ALL. Guys can some one send me the new lay out and files? ill update the panacea uni doc for all. [email protected]

Ash

[lamare]

The other problem I see is how are you going to control your on time of the mosfets? The way a transformer works is that during the rise time of current on the primary you get a current flowing in the secondary. As soon as the current on the primary reaches its peak then current stops flowing in the secondary. This is only going to give you a few milliseconds of on time for the mosfets and therefore I don't think you can get the 50/50 duty cycle you need for the proper operation of a tesla switch. A circuit very similar to this was posted a few months ago and I don't think that person ever posted back with any results on whether they got it to work or not. Maybe they will read this and let us know how it turned out. Good luck, citfta

Maybe it's an idea to use a high frequency oscillator and modulate that signal to get the duty cycle you want?

There's multiple ways to do that, but the idea is to feed the primary coil with a HF signal during "on" and with 0V during "off".

Then all you need is a rectifier (and probably a low pass filter with an appropriate, short RC time) at the secondary coils, and you can get any duty cycle you want. The only limit you get is that the rise- and fall-times depend on the HF frequency (and filter) you use.

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Dave, nvisser , Matt and ALL. Guys can some one send me the new lay out and files? ill update the panacea uni doc for all.

I am still testing, specific parts for the best combination. I don't want to publish the general schematic (Outside of in this thread) until I can ensure good running, at low cost, with some simplicity. I'm finding some things in different parts (relays mostly) they get kinda funny.

When I got one thats solid though, I'll get it out to you.

I will try to find it again

I would appriciate that. I'm interested in that. I have found that in a couple setup they show no potential on the meter but still run pretty well.

Matt

[nvisser]

Where is that reported?
Matt

Look at this document page 20 under cold fusion.

http://www.byronwine.com/files/plans.pdf

[nvisser]

[Matthew Jones]

I read the Brandt thing some time ago. But I haven't read the PDF.

Most of the time I don't pay much attention to the stories people write down. Experiences and what not, unless it comes with some sort of test data.

I have been trying to keep my eye open for a published report or data that shows somthing along that line, but so far...

I have had some far out stuff happen while running one switch setup imparticular. I have seen new batteries in a pack (AA, AAA, 9v) sucked dry. 0 volts. Meters get cooked inside while they are off. Lights flickering in the room. The setup is in a box out in the garage for the time being.
Funny stuff...

Thanks
Matt

[nvisser]

Lights flickering in the room. The setup is in a box out in the garage for the time being.
Funny stuff...Thanks
Matt

A friend of mine had the same experience with his bob boyce pic Pwm ,toroid and 101 plate water fuel cell. House lights dimmed a few times as if his setup was sucking the energy out of everything and then the board went up in smoke. He calls it avalance.
As you already build a few working replications can you give a quick report on my previous questions
Did the batteries charge themselfs while driving a load or did you just got much more life out of your batteries?
Again if you look at why Ron Brandt stopped his project, is this thing save if it works?
That is why I want Dave to give us some input to

[Matthew Jones]

Again if you look at why Ron Brandt stopped his project, is this thing save if it works?

"...SAFE if it works" is that what you meant to say?.

I think its safe, but if the problems are caused from the device, (and I am not ready to say they are for sure without more testing), It will need to be isolated. How I don't know. I also believe the load (Motor) that is used in it could be part of the answer to why.

My biggest hope with it is to turn a motor that will in turn, turn an AC generator. Simple home based power supply.

I have not had batteries stay charged while maintianing a load. I have on the other hand had a load run 20+- times longer wired this way. I have loads that drain the battery to 10 volts or less but continue to run, as expected. The batterries also snap back quikly to standing charge. If let alone for while they recieve a standard charge as expected. I have had loads that will drian the batterries quiker than they would under convetional.

I don't concentrate on the funny whoodoo magic of it all. I simply want to look at the conservation of energy principle it displays.
If high speeds cause a problem I will slow them down. There has to be a point in which the device as built will act as expected, without any consiquence. I still want to go faster though and see what happens.

But that why I keep building them. I want to see the outcome of different setups. Different componets. Different loads.

Who knows whats possible unless they try..

Matt

[nilrehob]

Hob

Lets look at this in Normal circuit way to start with so it is not so confusing...

1st in order to "Charge " a battery you need a Higher Potential to feed it with.

With the 4 battery set up you will have the 2 supp;y batteries in series to give you a 24v Difference of Potential. Now the Load for this is actually divided between the 12v Device(Light, motor etc) AND the 2 12v batteries in parallel giving you the By the book net 0 at the Source batteries return.

So what is happening is as the Motor or what ever you are running is pulling electrons through the circuit scrubbing off 1/2 the potential the 2 parallel batteries "being technically Backwards" get the other 1/2 of the potential run through them in a Charge state.
Then when you reverse the circuit the now charged parallel batteries become the Series supply batteries and the electron charge is sent back through the system to re-charge the other set of batts AND do work on the way.

Hope this helps explain the Basics of the circuit

Dave

Yes, I understand.

But if 1C (coulomb) is leaving each battery in series,
loosing 2C in total,
only 1C is being recollected by the batteries in parallel,
1/2C going to each battery.
So 1C is lost anyway,
just as if you used 1 battery.

/Hob

[nilrehob]

Anyway,

I did a simplified TS the other day,
not sure what to look for when tuning it though.

/Hob

[Matthew Jones]

not sure what to look for when tuning it though.

Run the load convetional, let the batteries rest,measure a voltage drop and amperage flow, run the load on the switch the same amount of time, Rest and record. Measure each battery individually in both scenerio's.

Thats about the best test i've been able come up with with out testing the batterries directly.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

But if 1C (coulomb) is leaving each battery in series,
loosing 2C in total,
only 1C is being recollected by the batteries in parallel,
1/2C going to each battery.
So 1C is lost anyway,
just as if you used 1 battery.

That only applies to capacitors in a closed loop system, a grounded system. It does not apply to an open loop, potential driven. In fact most of those rules they BRAIN WASHED YOU WITH don't apply.

Lots of things change when you drive between 2 potentials.

I don't quete understand that circiut but I have not seen a 2 switch setup that worked yet. If you want simple just wire up 2 batteries in series and 2 in parrallel. And run a load between them. Start measuring. Watts retained and work done.

Even if what you say is true. Well you ran the load and managed to capture 50% of the energy coming out of the load.

2C out of the discharge
1/2C in each charge battery
The light came on, the motor turned, the buzzer made noise....
Whats the work worth? And how much did it cost YOU to do it.

Hows that saying go "Free your mind and your a*s will follow..."

Matt

[sigzidfit]

nilrehob,

Interesting little circuit you have there.

I have no idea if there is anything to be learned from this but when I plugged it in (slightly modded) to the falstad circuit sim I got the wildest results I've ever seen! HAHA.

Peace
PJ

[nilrehob]

That only applies to capacitors in a closed loop system, a grounded system. It does not apply to an open loop, potential driven. In fact most of those rules they BRAIN WASHED YOU WITH don't apply.

Lots of things change when you drive between 2 potentials.

I don't quete understand that circiut but I have not seen a 2 switch setup that worked yet. If you want simple just wire up 2 batteries in series and 2 in parrallel. And run a load between them. Start measuring. Watts retained and work done.

Even if what you say is true. Well you ran the load and managed to capture 50% of the energy coming out of the load.

2C out of the discharge
1/2C in each charge battery
The light came on, the motor turned, the buzzer made noise....
Whats the work worth? And how much did it cost YOU to do it.

Hows that saying go "Free your mind and your a*s will follow..."

Matt

All am saying is that, conventionally, if the load is rectifying to dc, the circuit works just like a normal one-battery dc-system.

I'm searching for a mind-model to work with, one without too many unconventional buzzwords, haven't found it yet.

[nilrehob]

nilrehob,

Interesting little circuit you have there.

I have no idea if there is anything to be learned from this but when I plugged it in (slightly modded) to the falstad circuit sim I got the wildest results I've ever seen! HAHA.

Peace
PJ

Really? What happens?

The nice part is the two transistors, as they are making sure you can never have a short-circuit. You can utilize the technique on the standard TS as in the supplied circuit below.
This one i haven't built yet though, i need more wire...
But i'm pretty sure it will never short-circuit.

/hob