Water Sparkplug

[Bodkins]

Brilliant!!!!!!!!!

[gotoluc]

Hi everyone, just dropped in to see how things are going here and as I can see Aaron is doing an excellent job . Thank you Aaron for helping others to understand what is going on in this simple but effective circuit. Do you think this could be the working principal of lightning also?

At everyone please keep up the good work and remember to share

Luc

[Aaron]

Luc - thanks for posting

Hi Luc,

I'll keep watching your progress. There is already enough info here in this thread to get plenty of people started. I'm happy to send people your way to that thread as I already posted links to it.

I understand that some things like this are just too simple and just pass by the wayside because of lack of belief that it can be that important...I am hoping you and anyone else working on this keeps pushing it like a mad dog on steroids. This method follow the rules of what needs to be in place to unleash an electroradiant event...serious fragmentation of a voltage potential. Spreading a certain amount of voltage potential over a larger cubic area of space.

Understanding the primary principles involved and they are in Peter's Free Energy Secrets of Cold Electricity book on the Gray Tube technology....they give the insights into everything that is necessary in order to enhance this entire effect, make it more powerful...not worried about efficiency because charging those caps take nothing at all to begin with. If you haven't read that book, I suggest reading it and if you have, then you can see that it describes perfectly what you are working with

My experiments today show me that capacitance is virtually irrelevant and it is all about the voltage. I went up in capacitance for the same voltage...no matter what, the effect didn't improve...and didn't necessarily diminish either going down in capacitance.

Did you say in a vid or posted somewhere you used as small as 2uf capacitor? Or someone else did? That proves the point. What about .1 .01 .001uf at the same voltage. It is all about tuning the gas pressures on the front and back for each system and it probably won't take long for most of it to be worked out. At such small capacitances, they can obviously charge up lightening fast and not only fast but can be charged a long time using watch batteries, AA batts, etc...

People want caps and strobes to play with. Don't buy them. Tell people to go to a grocery store that processes film. Say they're working on a science project and need a haldful of the disposable cameras that already have the film ripped out. They have caps about 120uf and 120v or so plus the battery and charging circuit plus the strobe, etc... I went to one store about 7 years ago and I got about a dozen of them.

Personally, from the simplicity of this, I think the gas production requirements posted by the "gurus" of water gas production are bogus and are meant to distract people from the real secret. Meyer shows in the first patent and last patent about spark discharge and then spark at the plug. With the potential of this method, I can see how it is possible to run an engine on just water vapor, but an obvious enhancement to make it work really easily is that any engine running on it can easily produce a good amount of HHO gas from a booster to add to the moisture. This is where I think it needs to go.

Over all this time, nobody has created enough water gas to power an entire car. All the effort.... even with claims of hundreds of percent over Faraday, that isn't nearly enough. However, the amount people are currently making with everything they have tried *COULD* just be enough already...if they were using Krupas plug...but that may be unnecessary anymore...cost me about $2 for a NGK resistorless plug at Schucks. About $1 worth of diodes. Cars already have ignition systems in the car with the coil and battery and caps are free in those cameras sometimes for the asking. If the potential, no pun intended, of this whole thing is apparently as simple as it sounds...and from collective experience on all these things together, this is an irresistible offer that cannot be turned down.

I hope this rapidly becomes one of the most popular experiments in the world in the "free energy" field. I have a feeling there are more things to surface really soon.

I felt for a long time that the Krupa plugs were the key to unlock it but I don't have the means to duplicate a Krupa plug...the one thing Krupa was quiet about is the "ignition". I chatted with him on yahoo groups off an on the last few years and anytime I asked about the ignition...he stops typing back. lol

With his plug the annode is very large surface area like a mushroom head. If you take x mount of voltage potential and divide it by a certain surface area...there is more ability for it to fragment itself apart than with a small surface area.

Anyway, this is an awesome breakthrough Luc and if there are any further updates that you want to get out to a lot of people, just post them here and a lot of people will see them.

[lighty]

@Aaron

OK, your last video showing measurements of capacitor potential with both inverter and capacitor disconnected did clarify things considerably. I didn't realize that capacitor after a discharge through a primary retained any kind of charge. I am now more inclined to agree with you on the comparison with Gray tube.

Could you please do a simple experiment- just reverse polarity of the whole system and compare results with the ones you tried already. By reversing the polarity of the system I mean connecting common ground to (+) of the inverter output instead to (-) as well as reversing the polarity of the high voltage diode. That should provide you with a positive high voltage pulse striking on positive retained charge on the capacitor. Positive charge striking on positive charge sometimes behave differently then negative charge striking on negative charge.

[theremart]

How to harness this spark?

I would like to see an engine run this, but I am wondering, how much heat does this put off? The last video was remarkable how he had it firing constantly... I am thinking maybe mix the water with the gas to get the operation started in an engine then slow add more water... to see what percentage it would take to run...

I was also thinking maybe a tiny gas engine like on a weed eater might be the way to test...

I think I will wait till they work out the bugs on this, but it does look very promising...

Where can one get the switch they use in the diagram found on overunity page?

Mart

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc,

I understand that some things like this are just too simple and just pass by the wayside because of lack of belief that it can be that important...I am hoping you and anyone else working on this keeps pushing it like a mad dog on steroids.

My experiments today show me that capacitance is virtually irrelevant and it is all about the voltage. I went up in capacitance for the same voltage...no matter what, the effect didn't improve...and didn't necessarily diminish either going down in capacitance.

Did you say in a vid or posted somewhere you used as small as 2uf capacitor?

People want caps and strobes to play with. Don't buy them. Tell people to go to a grocery store that processes film. Say they're working on a science project and need a haldful of the disposable cameras that already have the film ripped out. They have caps about 120uf and 120v or so plus the battery and charging circuit plus the strobe, etc... I went to one store about 7 years ago and I got about a dozen of them.

I hope this rapidly becomes one of the most popular experiments in the world in the "free energy" field. I have a feeling there are more things to surface really soon.

I felt for a long time that the Krupa plugs were the key to unlock it but I don't have the means to duplicate a Krupa plug

With his plug the annode is very large surface area like a mushroom head. If you take x mount of voltage potential and divide it by a certain surface area...there is more ability for it to fragment itself apart than with a small surface area.

Anyway, this is an awesome breakthrough Luc and if there are any further updates that you want to get out to a lot of people, just post them here and a lot of people will see them.

Hi Arron and everyone, you are right! it is not about capacitance. I also noticed that the first time I discovered this simple circuit. In this video: YouTube - Ganga Shakti - Water Power Test 2 I am using a 3.3uf capacitor with the input voltage to the bridge at about 150 volts from my isolation transformer connected to a variac to regular 120 vac from the grid. I am using a one side of a DPDT relay as the switch and the relay coil is triggered by a transistor which is pulsed by my signal generator. The video is not capable of showing the light coming from the spark and you cannot look strait at it with your eyes it is much like the Sun light, this you can see in the video. There is much UV light, just look at the plywood board that the plug is on, you can see the blue light reflect on the wood.

If anyone gets to this point stop! and get some heavy UV protection glasses since you will damage your eyes.

To play with a disposable camera flash circuit is a great ideal and would be a easy way to also see results. Overunity forum user: calanan has a circuit that he posted using a strobe light that you can copy and post here if you wish. Feel free to copy enything you need as this belongs to the public.

It sad about the Krupa plug not coming out! this is the World we have created by not taking responsibility. They would be difficult to make since you would need precision equipment.

As Aaron has said, do not be fooled by the simplicity of this circuit. Play safe and find all the uses for it.

Please remember to share with everyone, this is the key to change

Luc

ADDED: I forgot to mention something important! ...the spark plug does not get hot! even at the level I get it to in the video above.

[Aaron]

splitting the positive

I didn't realize that capacitor after a discharge through a primary retained any kind of charge.

Could you please do a simple experiment- just reverse polarity of the whole system and compare results with the ones you tried already. By reversing the polarity of the system I mean connecting common ground to (+) of the inverter output instead to (-) as well as reversing the polarity of the high voltage diode. That should provide you with a positive high voltage pulse striking on positive retained charge on the capacitor. Positive charge striking on positive charge sometimes behave differently then negative charge striking on negative charge.

Hi Lighty, from how I see it, even if the cap goes to 0, the HV pulse is seeking that lower potential as long as it is not negative and is going back to common ground. Diode slams off and that buildup explodes to plug.

Those caps are pretty springy...not leaky but springy...they pop up a bit very quick. After discharge, these caps I was using spring up to 5v+ after discharge instantaneously. I think if there is some + voltage no matter how low after discharge into the coil, instantaneously, it probably self charges a bit...even if .000000001 lol, that is still a low voltage + potential the hv seeks going back to common ground.

Your explanation of your proposed experiment sounds simple but could you draw a diagram?

[Aaron]

splitting the positive diagram

This is from John's old page:
THE TESLA SWITCH
I show this to show how positive can move to positive, as long as it is a lower voltage positive and connected to common ground.

[Jetijs]

Here is my experiment:
YouTube - Water spark

I used a water heater to get hot steam. You can hear how the bangs become louder when the steam is released through the spark gap. This was filmed with a photo camera, that is why it is hard to see the flashes, but they were all there in all the impulses. If we used larger gap, the spark gets very weak after a while in hot steam and the bangs are not so loud anymore. I suppose that this is because the steam heats the electrodes and this makes some resistance in them. Anyway, I can confirm that when water vapor is ignited like this, there is a much louder bang than from the spark without steam, the flash becomes red/orange in color and you can see an explosion about 1.5cm in diameter. Also the electrodes indeed doesn't get hot

[Bodkins]

Hi Lighty, from how I see it, even if the cap goes to 0, the HV pulse is seeking that lower potential as long as it is not negative and is going back to common ground. Diode slams off and that buildup explodes to plug.

Those caps are pretty springy...not leaky but springy...they pop up a bit very quick. After discharge, these caps I was using spring up to 5v+ after discharge instantaneously. I think if there is some + voltage no matter how low after discharge into the coil, instantaneously, it probably self charges a bit...even if .000000001 lol, that is still a low voltage + potential the hv seeks going back to common ground.

Your explanation of your proposed experiment sounds simple but could you draw a diagram?

Has anyone tryed diode to +(earth battery) on the cap to pull in the potential form the earth?

[lighty]

@Aaron

I guess this is what you propose that happens in your circuit ?


You'll notice that I propose not just turning off inverter but completely disconnecting it from circuit (as well as the condenser connection) before discharging just to be sure nothing happens there.









This next picture shows the proposed polarity reversal.





I still have some questions and doubts as to why spark gap is cold.

1. What is the condenser capacity (so that one could calculate stored and released energy)?
2. What is the value of HV voltage impulse and it's duration?
3. Is there any change of the supposed bounced HV voltage impulse polarity?
4. Did you try raising frequency to a few kHz (ordinary car ignition coil should go up to 3-5 kHz)?
5. Did you try significantly raising condenser capacity in order to ensure bigger amount of energy is released?
6. Did you leave circuit to operate at few kHz for prolonged period of time (at least 15 min) and then measured a possible change in spark gap temperature?


Please don't get me wrong electro-radiant event might be happening but the total released energy could be so small so that spark might be jumping and igniting water while at the same time the released energy might be so small so not to significantly heat spark gap.

When dealing with apparently exotic stuff one must spare significant time and effort disproving possible conventional solutions. That being said I think this circuit is indeed interesting.

[Aaron]

spark info

Hi Lighty that looks along the lines of what I'm thinking.

Luc and Callanan have taken the experimental phase with this further than I have. I'm so busy with business that I don't have much time to do a lot with this.

I'll discuss my opinion on this and how Tesla would see it in another thread.

What's up with Tesla?

[rosco1]

White plasma

After watching you guys playing around with inverters and such, I thought I better share another method of approaching the problem.

I think everyone should take a step back and look closer at this before playing around with those higher voltage approaches just yet.

It has to be recognised that the higher voltages will burn up the plugs at a faster rate, and it also has to be remembered that your tests are being done in open air, not under pressure as it happens inside a combustion chamber.

You may be going a step too far at this point by looking at amplifying the spark in open air to achieve a white plasma. Once you pressurise the spark it behaves quite differently.

I'm not saying my way is right, just that it should be considered.

Today I conducted a few tests to see what would happen to the normal blue spark under pressure, as it normally occurs inside a combustion chamber, then I added a few different types of non powered spark "intensifiers" to the equation and watched what happened once pressure was applied to the spark created by each. The results are interesting.

I set my pressure bell up on the front of my old test car, hooked a small air compressor to the car battery and attached it to the pressure bell.

I then disconnected the plug lead from number 1 cylinder, removed the spark plug from number 1 cyl and replaced it with a dud plug just to block the hole.

I fitted the plug I normaly run in number 1 cyl to the pressure bell, and attached the plug lead to it, running straight out of the top of the distributor.

This made it possible to run the engine(on 7 cylinders) and view the sparking events as they occurred through the pressure bell window.

I started the engine and let it idle, then tried to view the firing plug through the window of the bell. At idle the spark was quite hard to see due to the angle of the plug, I was basically looking at the bottom of the earth strap. I could barely make out the sparking events in normal air pressure.

Next I turned on the air pump and built the pressure up to 100psi and applied it to the bell. It was at this point that I noticed a leak at the viewing window of the bell, this wouldn't allow me to pressurise above 75psi in the actual testing cell.

Anyway, after 50psi the spark was quite evident yet still appeared to be blue in colour. At 75psi it was quite a bit brighter again, yet still appeared blue. At pressures below 50psi the spark lost its brightness and became hard to see, as in the open air tests.

Next I fitted my little $3.50 home made "intensifier" and started the engine.
I noted that I could see the spark a little easier in normal air pressure, it was definately more powerful as compared to the unaided sparking events. The sparks were still mostly blue, but were flecked with red/purple.

I built up the air pressure to 100psi as before, then applied it to the bell.
The spark did the same as in the previous test, yet was noticeably white and quite a bit brighter. I also noted that it hung on longer when the pressure was reduced to below 50psi. It was definately white.

Next I fitted an IKAT/ICAT spark enhancer, like what they sell for use on motorcycle engines. It appeared to behave pretty much the same as my home made intensifier. I built up the air and applied it, as before, and it displayed a white spark, definately brighter than a standard sparking event.

Next I fitted a Lectran Pulsar, it did the same thing again, as did my home made intensifier and the same thing as the ICAT, I have to admit though, the Lectran did appear to display a brighter white spark than the others, it appeared to hold on longer and stay brighter at below 50psi too.

My home made intensifier may need to have the gap altered as I was running it at about 7-8mm, it may work better at a wider gap setting. It would also need a Farady cage made up to capture the RFI as well.

My reason for adding this information here is that I feel that by using inverters etc, it may all be in vain, as you can get "into the white" with a lesser spark once you pressurise it above 50psi.

I believe that once you add HHO to the equation, along with a water vapour, you should be able to successfully achieve the desired result without wasting precious time over-engineering the matter.

[Tishatang]

@all
Rosco1 is right about things behaving differently between the bench in open air and the real world of high compression in an engine.

Here is a PDF for a modified CDI ignition system built for racing engines. It is beyond my ability to build. But maybe if you combined this modified system that fires multiple times with our HV system, it will help us to run on water.

http://www.molla.org/DIY-CDI/SC-DIY-...icle-hires.pdf

The PDF is an excellent article and worth the read.

Chris

[rosco1]

wasted energy

@all
Rosco1 is right about things behaving differently between the bench in open air and the real world of high compression in an engine.

Here is a PDF for a modified CDI ignition system built for racing engines. It is beyond my ability to build. But maybe if you combined this modified system that fires multiple times with our HV system, it will help us to run on water.

http://www.molla.org/DIY-CDI/SC-DIY-...icle-hires.pdf

The PDF is an excellent article and worth the read.

Chris

I'm not sure that using an MSD type of ignition is warranted at this point.
That type of ignition is better suited to igniting the slower burning gasoline, with it's obvious residuals, that are known to be left behind after the ignition event has concluded.

I'll stick with the single discharge for a while longer, given the costs. At least until I see a reason to adopt the MSD anyway.

Upon reflection, those added sparking events should have nothing to ignite if HHO is in the equation, given the much more rapid burn rate.

I reason that we only need 1 decent white spark to get the show on the road, anything coming after that could just be a waste of resources.

It's still early days, so until we know more, it's better to stick with the known methods and cross one bridge at a time.

I'm currently uploading video of the tests I mentioned earlier to Youtube, and please don't burn me at the stake for my camera skills, Spielberg I'm not. The only thing that should be considered in the footage are the actual strength and brightness of the spark events captured, and of course the colours.

I'll post the link as soon as I'm done.