Bedini Earth Light

[jehdds]

Interesting thing about corals on the importance of ratios of constituent materials in the environment and what the corals do and what is made
Corals switch skeleton material as seawater changes
Aragonite: Aragonite mineral information and data.
Jim

[John_Bedini]

petroleum jelly

Ibpointless2,
Have you considered that the gases will build up on the electrodes and cause a non conducting junction. Yes it may show potential but you will have no current. The honey if you would have burnt it to form carbon would have worked far better as an electrode, the trick would have been to coat the copper wire with the sticky carbon. The magnesium you cant do anything with except to use chemicals that will not attack it.
Just and opinion here.
John B

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Using soft iron with the copper (Without magnesium)

Hi, I found out that with magnesium the results were limited to a point and I decided searching for other materials for the negative. I grabbed a part of soft iron and placed it with copper in water. There was over 1.2 volts in potential difference! With the magnesium, it was not over 1.1 volts and was very slow to climb to this voltage but with soft iron, in no time at all! I just have Rochelle salt and alum for the moment and I can tell you that rochelle salt rocks!!! The coating on the copper seems to expend and there is a dark coating thats forms on the iron too. I have a couples of these cells in series and it puts out a constant amperage. No drop at all! I don't think that the iron will corode because there was no apparent corrosion on the magnesium since the beginning of these experiments a long time ago (couple weeks, loll). I think hutchison cells were made that way too (iron-steel/copper).

[ibpointless2]

Ibpointless2,
Have you considered that the gases will build up on the electrodes and cause a non conducting junction. Yes it may show potential but you will have no current. The honey if you would have burnt it to form carbon would have worked far better as an electrode, the trick would have been to coat the copper wire with the sticky carbon. The magnesium you cant do anything with except to use chemicals that will not attack it.
Just and opinion here.
John B

John it only builds up gas when water is present, since Petroleum jelly is water repelling no gases form.

I consider having a voltage of 1.4 a great achievement when you consider that I use no water to get it. I know its little to no current now, but you must keep in mind that I build "test" cells that use small electrodes that will for sure give little to no amps. I do have some hope for this cell because when it was hot i was getting over 4mA, this cell is a great heat activated cell.

[John_Bedini]

Water is already in the salts

John it only builds up gas when water is present, since Petroleum jelly is water repelling no gases form.

I consider having a voltage of 1.4 a great achievement when you consider that I use no water to get it. I know its little to no current now, but you must keep in mind that I build "test" cells that use small electrodes that will for sure give little to no amps. I do have some hope for this cell because when it was hot i was getting over 4mA, this cell is a great heat activated cell.

Ibpointless2,
The water is already in the salts epically the Epsom Salts 7 to be exact,
just pointing this out to you. So yes you heat it the water is present until the Epsom Salts can not produce any more. A better way to look at this is, the mixture is agents the electrodes surrounded by the jelly.

The next question is, does the mixture ever dry out or does it get warm and melt?
Can you poke around and see if you have water chambers in the jelly because the Epsom Salts will release water?

Better yet just take cooking oil, or mineral oil and add your mix to it see what happens, should be easy to do so you can see if bubbles form.

John B

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Higher amp output with cycling

The real trick here is to see if your cells output more with time. If you add little water, let it dry out and repeating this process it will grow the crystal structure of the cell and eventually if not automaticaly gives you higher each time. This is the only thing you can do to see if you have the right mixture imho..Both Johns are the winners and the only thing we can do for now is to replicate closely and build big, very big next!

[ibpointless2]

Ibpointless2,
The water is already in the salts epically the Epsom Salts 7 to be exact,
just pointing this out to you. So yes you heat it the water is present until the Epsom Salts can not produce any more. A better way to look at this is, the mixture is agents the electrodes surrounded by the jelly.

The next question is, does the mixture ever dry out or does it get warm and melt?
Can you poke around and see if you have water chambers in the jelly because the Epsom Salts will release water?

Better yet just take cooking oil, or mineral oil and add your mix to it see what happens, should be easy to do so you can see if bubbles form.

John B

Just because a cell contains Epsom salt does not mean it uses the water in the Epsom salt to give it voltage, if that was the case than we could just stick our electrodes in a cup of Epsom salt and get voltage but it doesn't work that way.

John I knew this mixture would work because I've made hundreds just like it. I take petroleum jelly and i sprinkle some Epsom salt and salt substitute on top of it. The Jelly will turn into a hot liquid which heats the Epsom salt than the Epsom salt release its water. The Epsom salt and salt substitute combine into the water to form a new salt. This combining of Epsom salt and salt substitute in water to form a new salt is key, once combined, water is never needed again. This new salt allows for ion exchange without water needed and thus we get power. As for the jelly it is water repelling and the new salt falls into it so what we get is a conductive protective jelly. The very nature of petroleum jelly is to protect metal from water or even you skin from water. I have made dry cells that use paper that had salt sub and epsom salt put onto it with water and allowed to dry. It doesn't matter if you let the cell dry for a day or a year you'll get voltage from the dry cell with no water needed. I have a 5 foot tall dry cell that powers my LCD clock for me for months now, no water needs to be added and the cell was allowed to dry for days before the magnesium ribbon was put on it.

John take some paper and get it wet, rub some salt substitute and Epsom salt on to the wet paper. Allow to dry. Once dry place electrodes on top of the dry paper and notice you'll get voltage and no water was needed.

[John_Bedini]

What am I missing

Ibpointless2,
I have already done that, in fact it had nothing until you add water.But that was not what I was asking, I was asking if you could see the bubbles. I understand about the big cell because we have that too. It is easy to run a digital clock (Cmoss) but that does not show the importance of the current to run circuits that needs it. I do understand what your looking for but for all that matters you could do the same thing with wheel bearing grease. My question is why that, and not because it repels water, because you need it to make voltage and current. and the mixture does contain water so you really can't get around that, it's not dry. The cell without water runs Cmos solid state easy without current, but it wont run discreet solid state circuits of any current. I might be missing something here in what your trying to say . Why am I wasting my time trying to figure out "The Hydrates" if it is that easy, I would just go to the store and buy the shelf of Vaseline and run my house. You might be happy running your clock but I'm not, I want to run real circuits with real cells that run for a very long time. So I don't know what I'm missing here? Better yet what is the discovery with this type of cell? And I did your experiments and did notice I did not have anything but Micro Volts until I added the water, yes the potential is seen and that is all. The cell I put together with the copper tube is real dry and it has nothing but Pico Volts. So please what am I missing here?
John B

[redrichie]

@lid
stubblefield patent describes a make and break system. Seems you just showed that in one of your last videos. The cell running a pulse motor.

[ibpointless2]

Ibpointless2,
I have already done that, in fact it had nothing until you add water.But that was not what I was asking, I was asking if you could see the bubbles. I understand about the big cell because we have that too. It is easy to run a digital clock (Cmoss) but that does not show the importance of the current to run circuits that needs it. I do understand what your looking for but for all that matters you could do the same thing with wheel bearing grease. My question is why that, and not because it repels water, because you need it to make voltage and current. and the mixture does contain water so you really can't get around that, it's not dry. The cell without water runs Cmos solid state easy without current, but it wont run discreet solid state circuits of any current. I might be missing something here in what your trying to say . Why am I wasting my time trying to figure out "The Hydrates" if it is that easy, I would just go to the store and buy the shelf of Vaseline and run my house. You might be happy running your clock but I'm not, I want to run real circuits with real cells that run for a very long time. So I don't know what I'm missing here? Better yet what is the discovery with this type of cell? And I did your experiments and did notice I did not have anything but Micro Volts until I added the water, yes the potential is seen and that is all. The cell I put together with the copper tube is real dry and it has nothing but Pico Volts. So please what am I missing here?
John B

If you only got microvolts than you did not do the experiment correctly. The water is only needed to dissolve the two salts, apply this to paper and allow to dry. This is how my glue cell works, mix Elmer's Glue all with Salt substitute and Epsom salt, the glue contains water and that's important. Once the salts are combined you can allow it to dry and it will never need water again to get voltage.

Vaseline is not key to the working of the cell, i don't need it. I only use it because it protect the metals of the cell from corrosion.


I'm not worried about powering TTL or CMOS chips, I know that even though the cells i make give 1.4 volts with only 10uA of current. I'm not thinking of these cells as batteries anymore but instead as a component. Sure I could make hundreds of these cells to light a LED or I could make a few and put them in a circuit to help boost the power of the circuit. I could use a capacitor at one end that runs a LED through a pulse circuit that also charges another capacitor at the other end that is in parallel with the crystal cells. The cell will supply the energy loss through the circuit and even more to give you more power than what you started with.


Creating a cell that doesn't need water to keep it alive is the great discovery, why? because the books say you can't. Water corrodes the metal and Galvanic theory is based on the fact the metals corrode when exposed to water and gives off a electron but if my cell don't use water than it shows that water is not needed to get power. The very reason why metals corrode is due to water. Galvanic's have never been the reason why metals corrode, just water is the reason. If you use water in your cell yes it will give you more power but at a cost. the magnesium will corrode. it doesn't matter if the magnesium is 120% magnesium it will still corrode. Using a big block of magnesium will take longer to corrode. And if the metals corrode than we have nothing more than a AA battery. I want to build cells that are not AA batteries and if they only give me a few micro amps now it won't mean i'll have the same thing in the future.

[NickZ]

@ All:
I understand Ib2 with his dry cell ideas, and also John B with his water cells to obtain more power.
What I think that John is saying is that the cells need to vent, like lead acid batteries normally do. Otherwise the hydrogen gas that is given off by the electrolysis action, which is the cause of the corrosion of the electrodes as well as the contamination of the electrolyte, will combine with air to form water. As well as bottle necking the Ions at the positive pole.
If the electrodes are not treated, and maybe even if they are treated, oxidation will cause the cells to stop working. That is how each metal protects itself from further turning into dust,by stopping the current that is causing the corrosion.
You may think that your cells are sealed, but most likely they are really not sealed very well. As the same hydrogen gas that burst capacitors will do the same with these cells, right through the glue, wax, and even possibly e-poxy, or other sealing materials. Especially with the higher output cells. Those that have very low output cells (microamps) may not see this affecting their cells, but it most likely is, just takes longer to see it.
Like John mentioned, if you want to do more than just dimly light an led, or run a clock, then something else needs to happen.

I have taken one of my dry carbon cells apart that has not been putting out its normal amount of voltage or current. It was made in an aluminum tube, using only wood carbon, and it shows no sign of oxidation even after some months. It may be that the carbon which is both the electrolyte and the carbon rod as the positive rail are contaminated. Although I can't visually see it, they probably are. This was a sealed cell.
I will try the aquarium carbon next, as it looks like some guys are getting very good results, and were able to light a dozen or more leds using only a couple of cells. This is very good news.

The trick of producing a dry cell that has the SAME output as a wet cell is still worth experimenting on, although not an easy thing to do.
My only contention is: that there is more to this than just galvanic chemical reactions. But, you'll only see this if there is no galvanic reaction is going on, as that will overpower the "other" non galvanic, Aether conversion process that is happening at the same time.
The air if full of different energies, frequencies, and vibrations, if we only knew how to tap them. But, It may take more than just the two different metals type cells we have been limited to working with, to see some real juice flowing.
NickZ

[John_Bedini]

electrical conductive

Ibpointless2,
The fact is that even with the Vaseline you also will still have corrosion as all these cell will have. The other fact is bubbles will form between the electrodes as you draw micro currents, that was my question. I do understand what the experiment is. I think I did do your experiment right because I did it three ways. I do listen to everything your saying, but I still keep in mind the electrical process that takes place in the cells. If your not going to call these cells or batteries but components what does that mean for the energy end of this process. I still disagree that water is not present because the formula says it is. And your not in a total vacuum with a completely dry atmosphere conditions so moisture is present when your making them. I have used these types of items my whole life to protect things but the corrosion still appears because of the moisture forming pockets between that and the metal. When you draw current at any level gas must be generated this will open up pockets, its like weeds growing up through asphalt and it cracks and the moisture gets in. None of these cells needs water as I have seen that too. Generating a dipole is one thing but using it is another. The source dipole must supply voltage and current or it's just a standing dipole that does nothing. If your happy with that fine. I think what you trying to make is an electrical conductive to pass ions. Two different metals by nature will show some voltage, small but the process oxidation is there simple physics. It is very easy to buy electrical conductive as it's used on spark plug wires it's actually made to stop corrosion of metals but still maintaining an electrical bond, it's in the auto part store, put your mix in that. As NickZ says it's still there as ceramics and carbon have tiny pours that clog up. It's called migration and I have seen this when working for RCA in scopes between silver electrodes and the circuits would die until it was cleaned.The other thing not everything is in the books as books say one thing and life is another. Even Marcus Reids cells have corrosion and they are dry I showed you that in a video.
I disagree with you, but if your happy fine time will tell if we all live that long.
John B

[John_Bedini]

I understand

@ All:
I understand Ib2 with his dry cell ideas, and also John B with his water cells to obtain more power.
What I think that John is saying is that the cells need to vent, like lead acid batteries normally do. Otherwise the hydrogen gas that is given off by the electrolysis action, which is the cause of the corrosion of the electrodes as well as the contamination of the electrolyte, will combine with air to form water. As well as bottle necking the Ions at the positive pole.
If the electrodes are not treated, and maybe even if they are treated, oxidation will cause the cells to stop working. That is how each metal protects itself from further turning into dust,by stopping the current that is causing the corrosion.
You may think that your cells are sealed, but most likely they are really not sealed very well. As the same hydrogen gas that burst capacitors will do the same with these cells, right through the glue, wax, and even possibly e-poxy, or other sealing materials. Especially with the higher output cells. Those that have very low output cells (microamps) may not see this affecting their cells, but it most likely is, just takes longer to see it.
Like John mentioned, if you want to do more than just dimly light an led, or run a clock, then something else needs to happen.

I have taken one of my dry carbon cells apart that has not been putting out its normal amount of voltage or current. It was made in an aluminum tube, using only wood carbon, and it shows no sign of oxidation even after some months. It may be that the carbon which is both the electrolyte and the carbon rod as the positive rail are contaminated. Although I can't visually see it, they probably are. This was a sealed cell.
I will try the aquarium carbon next, as it looks like some guys are getting very good results, and were able to light a dozen or more leds using only a couple of cells. This is very good news.

The trick of producing a dry cell that has the SAME output as a wet cell is still worth experimenting on, although not an easy thing to do.
My only contention is: that there is more to this than just galvanic chemical reactions. But, you'll only see this if there is no galvanic reaction is going on, as that will overpower the "other" non galvanic, Aether conversion process that is happening at the same time.
The air if full of different energies, frequencies, and vibrations, if we only knew how to tap them. But, It may take more than just the two different metals type cells we have been limited to working with, to see some real juice flowing.
NickZ

Nickz,
I forgot to mention that the old normal AA carbon batteries were never dry, it's when they dry out that the battery cease to exist. We did not have any money when we were kids so we would poke holes in the old carbon zinc batteries to let water in to put the moisture back in the material. This would work until the chemical was depleted, but I never seen the zinc get completely eaten up from galvanic action until we would put that in sulphuric acid with copper. We would take old 6 volt car batteries and take the tops off and clean them out and that would work until no more oxide was left on the plates. Just some history.

Ibpointless2 go buy the book The Boy Electrician you will fine some of what your trying to do, The Tomato Can battery and others.John B

[plengo]

Nickz,
I forgot to mention that the old normal AA carbon batteries were never dry, it's when they dry out that the battery cease to exist. We did not have any money when we were kids so we would poke holes in the old carbon zinc batteries to let water in to put the moisture back in the material. This would work until the chemical was depleted, but I never seen the zinc get completely eaten up from galvanic action until we would put that in sulphuric acid with copper. We would take old 6 volt car batteries and take the tops off and clean them out and that would work until no more oxide was left on the plates. Just some history.

Ibpointless2 go buy the book The Boy Electrician you will fine some of what your trying to do, The Tomato Can battery and others.John B

here is the book: http://rawfire.torche.com/~opcom/tbe...lectrician.pdf

Fausto.

[John_Bedini]

Thanks Fausto

here is the book: http://rawfire.torche.com/~opcom/tbe...lectrician.pdf

Fausto.

Thanks Fausto for your help on this, everybody should spend the time and read this book as this information is no longer available in the school systems, we no longer build we just consume. As you all can see Eric Dollard T-Rex must teach the same thing with his notes as people do not know. Sorry it must be this way. Everything in the book I did build at an early age of 7 years old to learn the basics, it stayed with me the rest of my life. Look at everything we are trying to build in the groups it is all in this book. Again Thank You Fausto. Oh the book was $5.00 dollars then used. The answers are only to be found in the old books and not the new ones.
John B