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  • Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
    Hi nick, the picture is bloomed a bit, though it is bright for 410 milliamps, 12 volt input.
    If the cfl bulb connections are swapped, then it draws 1 amp and almost full brightness.
    This is why this drawn circuit is being shared, because of some oddity with this air coil ringer.
    If you swap the primary connections around and the secondary, it somehow oscillates in a different mode and the cfl stays cool and is much whiter than normal, though in that cooler mode, it seems that probably much stray high frequency voltage radiation is being emitted and not absorbed into the cfl, as meters go haywire and touching connections can burn skin, though no pain really.
    Here is circuit and description on changing coil connections to alter circuit operation.
    Also plan to build another air coil ringer and try probably double the secondary turns and see what happens.


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    peace love light
    tyson
    nice ckt for salvaging slayer secondary coils and cfls ....still working on my solar charger for galaxy note and tab which need daily charging i using the aa cellphone charger to do this happy weekend totoalas

    Comment


    • Totoalas:
      Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
      To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Nick_Z View Post
        Totoalas:
        Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
        To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?
        Hi nickz
        Never tried on a 7 ah battery but to a cell phone but for a short while only

        Im currently using the sg oscillator from solar to two 7 ah batteries ... ps check my last video on YT very efficient
        My JR is set only to max 200 m A to save on the charge for 12 pcs 220v ac led lamps in parallel ( usually 160 mA)
        Im now experimenting with strip leds since new led bulbs 4th generation tend to consume more

        totoalas

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Nick_Z View Post
          Totoalas:
          Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
          To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?
          Hi nickz
          Never tried on a 7 ah battery but to a cell phone but for a short while only

          Im currently using the sg oscillator from solar to two 7 ah batteries ... ps check my last video on YT very efficient
          My JR is set only to max 200 m A to save on the charge for 12 pcs 220v ac led lamps in parallel ( usually 160 mA)
          Im now experimenting with strip leds since new led bulbs 4th generation tend to consume more

          totoalas

          Comment


          • Originally posted by jonnydavro View Post
            I hope you do try a 555 timer on the base to give you complete control as I think you will get very good results as it is easy to overdrive the transistor and needlessly waste battery power.The buzzer works very well to do this and is quick to implement and that is the setup which I have had my best results with.
            Thanks for sharing your experiment.Jonny.
            @jonnydavro

            Jonny, I'll be able to report very exciting results soon. So far, I have increased the CFL brightness significantly and able to increase battery pack voltage with the transistor ice cold. My target is for full brightness and to overdrive the gutted CFL at a current draw of 300ma with the transistor still ice cold.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Billxx View Post
              @jonnydavro

              Jonny, I'll be able to report very exciting results soon. So far, I have increased the CFL brightness significantly and able to increase battery pack voltage with the transistor ice cold. My target is for full brightness and to overdrive the gutted CFL at a current draw of 300ma with the transistor still ice cold.
              I look forward to seeing more on your setup. I was working last night with a different sort of bi-toroid dual bifilar setup running from a 555 based square wave gen I built just for this. So far it's lighting LED's but no OU yet. I'm trying to find a way to recharge the 9 volt supply battery from this setup. I also had a gutted CFL running from this coil setup and 120 volt LED at the same time but power was from a 12 volt Nicad pack for that. I'm always looking for ways to keep the battery up or increase in voltage so it sounds like you're onto something really good there.
              There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

              Comment


              • @Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
                Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.

                Comment


                • X Generation LED Lamps

                  HI to all
                  MY JR 1 had been effective with third generation led lamps 220 v ac 5 w led lamps with 200 mA 80 % brightness for 10 pieces in parallel

                  However with new 4th generation led lamps, I can lit only one which is still flashing with my original JR set up ... need to increase the input current which is bad for solar / battery charged system

                  Has anyone tried to adapt the jr to any kind of led lamps with less amps

                  most of the current test with sjr cross over, lynx had more than 200 mA just for one led lamp

                  Either we come back to gutted cfls by Skywatcher and Nicks
                  and Slayer/ Jonny davro circuit for more tweaking

                  Merry xmas to all

                  totoalas

                  Comment


                  • All:
                    Still working on lighting the gutted Cfls to good useable brightness. Not easy. Needs lots of secondary windings.
                    Good luck to all.
                    I don't have my Pc working and can't keep up with the action, but, still at it.

                    Nick_Z

                    Comment


                    • Hi folks, Hi nick, here is the circuit that is lighting up a gutted 13 watt cfl to full brightness, while the heat sink is only warm and transistor between ambient and luke warm.
                      http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post219280
                      peace love light
                      tyson

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                        Hi folks, Hi nick, here is the circuit that is lighting up a gutted 13 watt cfl to full brightness, while the heat sink is only warm and transistor between ambient and luke warm.
                        http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post219280
                        peace love light
                        tyson
                        Hi sky
                        can you try with 4 or 6 bulbs then we can use this in solar lighting

                        merry xmas

                        totoalas

                        Comment


                        • Hi totoalas, don't really have matching gutted cfls here and that may be an issue with trying to light multiple bulbs in series or parallel off the same transformer.
                          Will try and see.
                          The only issue might be, that if we add more turns to the secondary, we can ignite more cfls in series, but we now have less current potential because of higher resistance in secondary to light them brighter.
                          Maybe using a thicker gauge wire, like 24 gauge, would need more layers to get the same turns, though the current would be available to light multiple bulbs in parallel, though probably not in series, as the voltage probably would not be there to strike lights on.
                          Then again, maybe some type of added circuitry, (similar to a ballast function) to ignite the multiple bulbs, then added windings might not be necessary on the same ferrite core transformer.
                          We will see.
                          With the Meissner TV yoke circuit just posted, to get it to light at a lower input and lower light level without using a potentiometer, had to wire in a bypass switch to ignite the bulb, since the lower setting is not enough to strike the bulb, so it is a similar concept.
                          Get the multiple bulbs to ignite, then we can use a lower input on all of them, for a useable amount of desirable light for our application.
                          peace love light
                          tyson

                          Comment


                          • Hi again totoalas, was making a few tests here with a couple gutted cfls in series, that are somewhat similar 13 watts bulbs.
                            We can go up in input voltage to do the job, as 24 volts lights both very bright or we can use the same 12 volts or so and try multiple secondary windings.
                            Then each winding can go to a cfl, wherever it is needed in ones house and since it is high voltage AC, there is little loss with longer distance wires.
                            Tested a 4 ferrite bead with one layer of 30awg. secondary-320 turns and a 66 bifilar turns 24awg. primary on top.
                            It ignites the 13 watt just fine and that is a 10:1 ratio of winding turns.
                            So, that means, we can make at least 4 layers of individual secondary windings to power multiple, separated bulbs.
                            Going to first try it with this ferrite bead core, since it does work, will add another individual secondary coil on top of first one to power 2 separate bulbs and see how that goes, if it goes well, will try it with the ferrite TV yoke next.
                            Of course we can always use a thicker primary gauge wire, if extra amperage is needed for brightness, will try the primary bifilar 24awg. magnet wire for now.
                            peace love light
                            tyson

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by jonnydavro View Post
                              @Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
                              Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.
                              @jonnydavro,

                              Well, while able to increase the battery pack size (up to 16.5v), the power required to light the gutted CFL (to full brightness) is outside of the ability of the battery pack using std 1.5v, 595mah cells. Because the circuit was responding so well at 3v I really thought we'd get better results, sorry. I used different configurations including maintaining the PWM circuit voltage at 3v but to no avail. I even tried using an external PWM circuit with it's own power (1.5v), but, that didn't work either. A real big issue is heat in the battery pack.

                              Jonny, this isn't a failure by any means, at 12v, 700ma, the 18W CFL, while not at full brightness, lit up a 15ft x 15ft room very well, but, the power demand exceeds the battery pack and will only do that for a while and then starts dropping, afterall, the battery pack is only 595mah. There's very very little heat in the circuit, but, what is alarming is the heat from the battery pack. (Note: the battery of the external PWM was dangerously hot when I tried that approach)

                              For now, I'm going to abandon the CFL circuit and look at an LED circuit. Considering your success with the potentiometer-buzzer arrangement, I should have better success with an LED.
                              Last edited by Billxx; 12-23-2012, 10:24 AM.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Skywatcher
                                thanks for sharing your results
                                so multiple secondary with a single primary can do the trick
                                I am still working on my half JT and half slayer circuit on an E core transformer ... still no success

                                Just replicated lynx RF diode Charger ( AC Neutral RF Charger 231212 - Youtube Imtotob ) and seems to have fast charging effect using Neutral AC with body ground shorting the output .......
                                A 4th generation 3 w led 220 v ac will flash on the Neutral / earth ground

                                The RF diode charger has the same result with ac being converted to dc
                                and will light a 7 meters 12 v led strips for a second with 60 v dc

                                if we can amplify tweak the circuit to use supercaps then
                                we can have full use of the neutral in our house......

                                Merry Xmas
                                Update
                                AC Neutral RF Charger Load 271212 - YouTube
                                totoalas
                                Last edited by totoalas; 12-27-2012, 07:51 AM.

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