Does this "Secret Tesla Generator" really work?

[thx1138]

ill post my updated schematics if ya want to take a look at what ive put together...

Please do. A bill of materials and a diagram of the layout of the entire system including the antenna and grounding specifics would be helpful also.

now one thing i did notice is that sometimes when it rains my power drops but other times its stable ..wierd ...something in the rain perhaps ?

first time it happened i thought it was a fluke but its happened several times ... as i said wierd...

Not really weird. It's still not clear to me what energy your system is intercepting but if it is cosmic rays or electromagnetic transmissions it is easily explained by more dense matter in the air (the water) absorbing and/or dispersing the energy before it gets to your antenna. It would be similar to a cloud passing between the sun and a photovoltaic solar panel. It may also be affecting your grounding system.

[maxs]

ive been very busy sorry for not checking in sooner but have been having some family issues....

that aside ive redone alot of my original setup ...

1st i dropped my antenna and mounted it on a pulley system for easy raising and lowering of the wires in the event of a storm and adjustments if need be..

2nd i went back to my EE core ferrite transformer but rewound it with a quadfiller primary 4 layers of 50 turns total of 200 give or take and a bifiller secondary of 7 turns with the begining of the first strand connected to the end of the second and using one of the single strands as an output and the two connected as the other ( more current that way )...

3rd ive added a hv capacitor bank in series with my spark gap ( tried a neon as a spark gap it eats up the current before it enters the transformer) im using a homemade adjustable spark gap with blunt tips .

4th here is the kicker i built a small single transistor inverter that works from 3vdc up to 14vdc without blowing my tranny the transistors ive tried are 2sc1061 works good the tip31 and 3055 ive also tried some fets but the tip31 is my choice for now as i have almost 100 of them incase of smoke lol

ive also built a rectifer/voltage boster circuit to run this inverter and it does indeed work ...

my antenna system is drawing in over 500vac after running it through my cap bank and transformer and stepping it down and through my rectifier im getting (unloaded) 125vdc 15ma which is not bad but loaded with the inverter and a small led night light (not those dinky dim pieces of crap) this one is very bright ...it will light is up and keep it lit as long as i leave it hooked up no charging caps and dumping them into a transformer yada yada ...that takes too long this setup runs straight from the antenna my caps are only for stability ...my output under the load is 5vdc 12ma not really enough for an incandescent light bulb but with a electrolytic capacitor across the positive and negative of the rectifier it can be done as i have done it but as stated before it takes time to charge them and a timer/ dump circuit to dump the charge into the inverter i wasnt looking for pulsing a current i was trying for realtime power usage..

im almost their at least i think so...

ill post my updated schematics if ya want to take a look at what ive put together...

now one thing i did notice is that sometimes when it rains my power drops but other times its stable ..wierd ...something in the rain perhaps ?

first time it happened i thought it was a fluke but its happened several times ... as i said wierd...

have a good one happy testing !!!

[maxs]

not sure if anyone is still interested in this thread but here goes anyway...

i have been trying to light cfl`s and standard bulbs using the antenna setup ive mentioned earlier in this thread ive been making changes as i find a better solution to what im trying to do...

now i have wound several transformers and built several low voltage dc to ac inverter circuits one i have will light a 10 watt cfl (highest i have) 25 watt standard and any led bulb ( well any that i have) on 8 to 9 vdc will also work on 12vdc

now if i connect this to my rectifier ciucuit i built it will pulse the led bulb but not the other lamps...(not enough current)

although i was able to light 5 bars of 6 bright leds a total of 30 to what seemed to me full brightness but it doesnt take much to light these as they were removed from an old led screen tv... somewhere around 14.5 vdc per bar... but they did stay lit up till i unhooked them a week later...

(so in my opinion that is performing work)

now i have a question or better yet i need some help figuring out how to get more current from this setup if anyone can help please do and if you need my current schematics ill snap pics of them as i only have them hand drawn...still a work in progress

im using a toroid wound with 85 turns of 30 gage enameled wire and over that 5 to 6 turns of 17 to 18 gage enameled wire this stepped the voltage down and the current up but the only way it will work as alot of you know you must have some sort of switch between the gnd and positive or in other words between the antenna and gnd ive tried it on the gnd before it enters the transformer and on the antenna side before it enters the transformer works either way but on the gnd side you get more current for some reason...my switch is a adjustable spark gap (home made) ...

now is their any way i can either improve on my transformer setup or a better type of switch setup ?

[maxs]

OK so here is what i have as of now i wound a couple transformers using ferrite e cores i salvaged from some old pcb boards i had lying around i have a total of around 10 different transformers ive been using different gage wire and different winding ratio to find the best combination .

What i have found is if i run my input from my spark gap to the primary of one of my transformers and run the secondary to my tesla style air core coil it will excite the coil to light a cfl (without any additional electronics) .

i have taken readings of the power from each transformer the base (starting ) or input voltage is anywhere from 450 t0 500 vac it varies ...the maximum i have gotten is over 2000vac i almost fried one of my meters as it only went to 1000vac and i didnt realize i would be able to get that kinda voltage.

i will post all my findings when im finished with my tests im trying to make detailed notes and each circuit ive tried with notations of what works and what doesnt....

so far so good though...

[maxs]

figured id post a short update ...i removed the bridge circuit and wound another air core transformer with 550 turns on secondary and 100 turns on primary ( yes step-up) or resonant transformer, the primary came from an old microwave cooling fan motor and the secondary (for now) is a strand of cat5 solid wire) with this setup i found it interesting that it fired up a cfl although my goal is to see how much usable power i can get from this wire antenna setup ...my next step is to raise my antenna to 40 then 50 and stop at 60 ft off the ground if i go too high the wind here is terrible it would just get ripped apart ....

i did however wind a 3' coil with the same wire im using as my antenna strung across my yard to see if erecting a coil 30' in the air at a single location would produce the same results ...the answer is no i only got 60vac with 27ua .
Their must be a reason i get much more covering a larger area than having an antenna just going straight up...

[maxs]

Ive modded my circuit again and went with and air core transformer i wound myself as of now. i tuned it before i hooked up the rectifiers as to get the max current by removing windings from primary or adding them and the same for the secondary after i squeezed as much current as possible through it i hooked up the second part of the circuit which is a modded version of what ive been using ... i can now run an led array of 24 leds at full brightness continuously ... no extra power source just the antennas but ive been trying to pull a larger load like incandescent bulbs but they drain the capacitor to 0 the only way i know of as of now is maybe another type of low voltage spark switch across the cap to the bulb with maybe some type of transistor or thyristor maybe...dunno yet but ive attached a rough copy of my setup check it out let me know what u think...and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated ...

[maxs]

i had some very interesting readings last night because of an electrical storm that moved through my area ...my origional 370vac jumped to over 1000vac at times which was interesting in itself however the current was fluctuating from a couple hundred ua (normal) to the ma range and once to 3 a wow!!! that was fun...

but on a different note i modded my circuit again by moving my spark gap ( found a few better ones in old pc monitors) after the hv cap in series with the antenna then to an air coil transformer with 100 turns on primary and 15 turns on secondary then to a modded rectifier ( nonpolar caps across the dc out of the bridge) then a electrolytic cap across the output to the load...( load being incandescent bulbs) tried one from an old flashlight worked well but blew ofter letting the cap build too high ... then went to a 12vdc test light bulb its working as of now but only if i let the cap charge first then it drains to 5vdc and the light goes out...

its comming along it seems...

i repeated these results 3 times im going to do it again after work if no storms move in...

[thx1138]

I live in sunny south Texas and have approximately 10,000 sf of metal interlocking roofing panels on my house and shop. Can this roof be used as a large antannae on any of Tesla's works?

The short answer is probably not. The longer answer follows.

One of the requirements for Tesla's radiant energy collector is that the elevated plate be insulated with a dielectric material. I doubt your roofing is insulated in such a manner. If it is not insulated but is then connected to an earth ground you are turning your roof into a Franklin style lightning rod. The way that works is that the point of the lightning rod ionizes the air around the point which makes it more conductive than the non-ionized air. So when there is a lightning bolt it takes the easier path to ground through the ionized air around that point to the point and then through the rod and connected wire to ground. That prevents the lightning from striking a less desirable part of the structure that might catch fire.

If your metal roof has any burrs or sharp points from being cut or at the corners it would do the same thing and actually attract lightning bolts like a Franklin lightning rod so you don't want to do that.

The insulating dielectric material around the elevated plate in Tesla's device serves two purposes. The first is explained above. The second is charge separation which prevents the collected charge from neutralizing with charges in the air on its way to whatever device is attached. Without that charge separation very little, if any, charge will reach the attached device.

Another aspect is the height above ground and the height above sea level. In both cases higher is better. The distance above ground apparently needs to a minimum of 30 feet but higher is better. I never saw anything stating this but I think Tesla was thinking of the insulated elevated plate being much higher - in the realm of thousands of feet above sea level. His wireless transmission patent states that we was considering transmitting between balloons maintained at 30,000 feet. We have to remember that heavier than air did not exist in 1897. The rarefied air and very cold temperatures at that altitude would both have made it easier to transmit electricity.

So in the valley your altitude above sea level will also be detrimental to a radiant energy collector working.

[maxs]

Well i just thought i would post some of my progress "again" im probably boring you guys with this because most of you have probably already experimented with it and know the outcome but anyway ill post some of my findings ...

i fixed my spark gap somehow it was leaking for lack of a better term but i have it stable now i did how ever find that if you construct a crude current boost circuit with a few hv caps a rectifier and a bleeder resistor you can put a fairly large load on this antenna setup...i have an led strip from a broken 55" led screen as my load all the leds light up on that strip now that may not be much but the current is staying constant now and the voltage is stable at 7.5vdc

Im thinking of trying to see how much of a load i can add to see where the current boost circuit will top out so to speak.

Then i have a question im proposing when i find the "top end" to try and before the rectification when the current is at its peek to try and add a stepdown transformer to see if it will work the way im hoping which is sense the current is high enough (hopefully) that when the voltage is stepped down the current will jump again ...i hope you understand what im trying to say here...

It would be like taking power again from the same source like a wall outlet sorta ...leaving the load on one end to keep the current and voltage as high as possible and on the back end incorporating the step-down transformer to see if it will do as im hoping...

Any thoughts ?

[maxs]

Ok so i have assembled my rectifiers to try and get close to the readings i had a few days ago.
But i cant a am however getting 280ua from one rectifier so im going to parallel the outputs of a few and see what readings i get i have also built a current amplifying circuit to see what i can get outta that as well .. Ill keep posting my results...

ok here is some of what ive done .

i used my multimeter and went through a batch of 1n4004 and 1n4001 diodes i had each lot was from the same batch each so thats a plus but anyway i checked each till i found 4 with the lowest reading for the full wave rectifier i did this for 4 rectifiers each diode had readings of .500 to .507 thats pretty low not as low as id like but they will do...

now on my single antenna setup i hooked up the rectifiers ac inputs to the antenna and earth then i ran each rectifier through its own high voltage cap and the potential current on each was around 180ua to 240ua with a voltage of 125 vdc or better the voltage climbs very fast, if left without a load its just keeps climbing. ( ive been having some issues with my spark gap ) that might account for the odd readings...but anyway i paralleled the circuits and the current shot up and under a load it maintained a potential voltage of 35vdc at 257ua thats pretty good in my opinion...this is just two circuits paralleled im planning on seeing how much current i can actually get out of only one wire .... i have several hv caps to play with so we shall see what happens....


Ill fix my spark gap problems and hopefully it will be better ...

[maxs]

the diodes were 134a because all were glass... ive been checking some of my diodes to find the ones with the lowest forward voltage i found several (unmarked for some reason) the forward voltage was from between .455 and .600 well thats just the readings on the diode setting after it turned on to allow current to pass but anyway those .455 should be really close to what i was getting from the germanium diodes... more testing more smoke..lol

[thx1138]

Do you know if your diodes are 1N34 or 1N34a? The 1N34's haven't been produced for quite some time so I guess it would depend on how old the radios from which you pulled them are.

The 1N34's have an opaque ceramic package and the 1N34a's have a glass package. I'm not sure about the 1N34's but the 1N34a's have a maximum repetitive peak surge forward current of 200ma and a maximum rectified forward current of 50ma.

The 1N4448 will give you a lower forward voltage drop (~0.7V) than the 1N4004 or 1N4148 (~1.0V) if you can get them.

[maxs]

Well after work today i had an idea to try and it proved to work but only for a short time because i blew my germanium diodes...not sure how but they were old . salvaged from old radios and such...but i have a heck of alot of 1n4004 and 4148 and a bunch of others but anyway what i did was hook 5 rectifiers up paralleled to boost current and yes with two it doubled with three it jumped again so i went with 5 and i ended up with 300ma thats a big deal 300ma is a heck of alot of current from a one wire antenna i thought i was seeing things so i grabbed a cup of joe sat down and thought it over and went to repeat the test and wouldnt you know it ... it was a nogo i checked my diodes and i had blown almost all of them. how i do not know but imma build some from these others i have and see what i get .
i know the forward voltage drop will not compare to the germanium but i dont have any more to play with nor any schottky diodes at present...ill post my findings i hope i was seeing what i thought i saw...i still cant get over it 300ma dang...

[maxs]

Ok i didnt like the results from the above schematic for some reason the readings were all over the place after a few days... but i made some mods that are working good as of now and that is i built a full wave rectifier from the germanium diodes and enclosed the spark gap (as suggested in an above post) and after the switch i put a 1uf 2100 vac capacitor ( microwave) then through the rectifier into another 25uf 370v capacitor ( window ac unit motor run capacitor) and into a toroid transformers primary and an led across the secondary its staying lit up very well with 10.7 to 11.5 vdc constant across the primary...this is looking promising to say the least...

oh i almost forgot the current is now a few milliamps so im thinking of a few of these rectifiers in parallel to boost current and/or a few more antennas and hook them up before the spark gap switch to boost current ...

[maxs]

ok i beef`d up this dc charging circuit a little and connected a load (led) to the dc out and it stayed lit without draining the caps so this is looking promising...