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Reactive Power Generator (RPG) Replication Project

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  • Reactive Power Generator (RPG) Replication Project

    The RPG or Reactive Power Generator built by Mike Clarke and his partner Norm took several years, with the help of Paul Babcock, to get to where it is at.

    It is basically an air core Bedini SG that adheres to several parameters such as higher voltage battery banks and frequent battery swapping. Both battery banks stay charged up, I've seen it work at various scales and it is the most important technology that has come along in the category of pulsed motor designs. Bedini always said the mechanical work is free and you know not to kill the dipole so don't extract anything from the batteries, tap the shaft for power that is independent of what is happening at the batteries and that is all free. It works, it's indisputably the most simple self running pulsed device that I believe the average experimenter can make work.

    It helps to see some background on this from the perspective of those who made it work:

    Those are the 4 presentations by Mike Clarke and are worth watching to get his full perspective. Pay attention to the scope shots and data logging showing the batteries - I've seen it live so I know it's legitimate.

    This one is by Paul Babcock who spelled out the formula for replicating the whole thing:

    Honestly, if you have any experience with the Bedini SG type of systems and you watch and HEAR what he is telling you, you'll understand just what to do. Much of it is exactly what John Bedini has said for years but of course, nobody really ever listened. The "glass case motor" - the Gravity Wave Space Flux Motor was air core and how much did John talk about the importance of the air core and so on.

    I invite anyone that has been hands on building to post your replication attempts, give specs, what your experience has been, etc. and I'll do my best to facilitate some support for this project. If you post a bunch of questions but you don't actually show pictures of what you're working on, it will most likely be ignored.

    Last edited by Aaron; 01-08-2024, 05:25 AM.
    Aaron Murakami

    Books & Videos
    RPX & MWO

  • #2
    Hi Aaron and interested parties,

    I'm not seeing the desired charging so my direction and prayers are to learn how to have sufficient charging. Here is a dropbox link for a recent vid .

    bro d
    Last edited by Donald Haas; 01-04-2024, 06:22 AM.


    • #3
      20231230_152533.jpg upgraded to bigger wires
      Working on 6 mag generator that will go on the motor shaft rather than have a belt.
      It seems to me that a belt causes more drag than having gen on motor shaft.
      No Load she runs at about 2200 rpm so I'm looking to to stay above 1500rpm Under Load.
      I'm hoping to find a way to have the 2 diode charge lines bypass the swapping relays by depending on diodes in and out of the charge bank.
      Got to do some more 20230817_190331.jpg testing with a one coil setup.
      The pic with my 16yr old son, Luke, is before I added weight to the rotor. The Gen on the side is a 4 mag / 4 coil version.
      Any one building?

      bro d


      • #4
        Hi Donald, thanks for sharing your work on this project here. That's great your son Luke is involved - hope to see more youngsters his age get involved.

        That's great you're running at 60 volts without blowing up your switches - you've been at this stuff for a really long time so have a really good frame of reference for most of this. Can you share details on your switching method, some schematics of your setup for both battery switching and the coil switching? Parts #'s of your fets and diodes?

        In the vid, I see the Everstart batts. Starter batteries are definitely better than deep cycles for these because of lower impedance but going up in size with the batteries could potentially (pun intended)- make a huge difference in your results. Out of curiosity, what kind of temperatures are the batteries on both ends after running for an hour or so? That's more than enough time to most likely have the input and output batts be at the same temp if you're switching relatively fast. Those Everstarts are inexpensive but are also some of the worst case scenario batteries for starter batteries.

        What are some of the most important bulletpoints in your opinion from everything Mike shared in his presentations and also from Paul's "They are all the same" presentation? This whole thing really just revolves around a handful of proven principles.

        I know of two others that are working on this - one from scratch and one converting another build into this kind of system. I'll ask if they are interested in joining the conversation.
        Aaron Murakami

        Books & Videos
        RPX & MWO


        • #5
          Regarding optical switching with a slotted timing wheel... use 2 sensors. One for on and the other for off with a single slotted timing wheel. The sensors are mounted so that the flat wheel's edge goes in the groove of the optical sensor (like a disk brake caliper). The position of the sensors must be adjustable around the timing wheel to allow for the precise location of the on and off positions. The slots are straight and narrow (1/16").
          Last edited by edbecnel; 01-04-2024, 10:40 PM.


          • #6
            Just to let you know what I will be working on... I had purchased the plans for a Fuelless Engine several years ago and have built most of the components. A colleague of mine had asked me to test one he had purchased back in 2017. The results of the test seemed promising so I set out to build one myself. It is basically a pulsed motor that uses a mechanical commutator. However, from what I have seen and heard about this machine, it sounds like it is a waste of time and effort. So, I decided to repurpose the parts to build my own variant of an air core high voltage Bedini (i.e., an RPG variant). If I were starting from scratch, I would follow Mike Clarke's design but since I already have most of the parts machined, I will build it as is but with optical switching, MOSFETs, Silicon Carbide diodes, and similar components as Donald is using for his build.


            • #7
              Here's the 3D model I created of my RPG variant...


              • #8
                Hi Aaron,
                I'm glad that we are headed into "sufficient" info for success.
                The point that inspired me the most with Paul B's "They are all the same", is that one could use the concept to self run and charge batteries with shaft power in addition to the run and charge banks that were being swapped. It doesn't take a lot of power to pulse charge deep cycle batteries if they are being pulsed 24/7 from a small (Paul suggested 250W) generator.
                I was so inspired to get after it because I knew that I could build one.
                Mike Clark showed that he doesn't understand what Paul knows at Paul's level.
                But Mike's main point to me is that you don't quit. Amen, and that we need what we need regarding help.
                After I got started testing with a single air coil, switched with mosfet and hall trigger, I reached out to my go to guy, RS ,who has been frequenting these forums longer than me.
                I still need more help with this and hope to get Paul B. involved with the discussion.
                I'll post more of my build info and pics.
                Last edited by Donald Haas; 01-05-2024, 05:41 PM.


                • #9
                  My methods may not be best compared to Paul B's methods.

                  fet brds and driver brd.pdf

                  FOR RS 2.pdf

                  FOR RS 3.pdf




                  bro d


                  • #10
                    4 mag gen 1.jpg 4 mag gen 2.jpg 4 mag gen 3.jpg
                    4 mag gen is mounted on motor shaft, one additional bearing.
                    bro d


                    • #11
                      2ND DRIVER BRD.pdf
                      colored tape on wires from opto trigger to brd.jpg SCOPE OF 2ND DRIVER BRD.jpg
                      I'm seeing spikes over 700v over 700v spike.jpg

                      bro d


                      • #12
                        opto sw 1.jpg opto sw 2.jpg opto sw 3.jpg opto sw 4.jpg opto sw 5.jpg
                        colored wires from opto sw to board. I can use 2 timing wheels back to back to adjust pulse width. Wider width = faster = more amps.
                        I can run NL, full width, 2200rpm. I adjust timing location by rotating the opto switch holder. High RPM calls for significant advance of timing.
                        (mag coil relationship)
                        bro d


                        • #13
                          4PDT MANUAL SW.jpg
                          4PDT MANUAL SW. When switched to the left as shown the left bank is being charged and the right bank powers the arduino and fet driver through relays (Pololu) and the right bank feeds an invertor on a shelf lower than the big sw. When sw'ed to right reverse is true.


                          • #14
                            This cct goes between gen and 4PDT manual switch.

                            ARDUINO 4 FET CAP DUMP FROM GEN.pdf

                            bro d


                            • #15

                              I use Arduino MEGA with a screw shield. The shield allows me to to tightly screw each lead rather than have inserted pin wires.

                              mega with screw shield.jpg
                              8 - 60A SPST LATCHING RELAYS.jpg

                              bro d
                              Last edited by Donald Haas; 01-07-2024, 04:10 AM.