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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Spool construction in progress. Refrig parts of low density PE gets
    butchered by unruly hole saw hack.


    http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/spoolconstruct6.jpg


    -------------------------------------------------------------------



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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
    Hi all, interesting numbers so far.
    Input to boost converter = 11.67 volts at 1.15 amps = 13.42 watts.
    Output from boost converter = 25 volts at .49 amps = 12.25 watts.
    Output from stingo radiant pulses = 13.8 volts at .29 amps = 4 watts
    Total watts out = 16.25 watts
    Ratio input/output = 121% output
    peace love light

    great work Sky

    Spool update twin gen coil COP 3 and up, build. Costume spools to
    fit my winder that are heavy duty. 2" spools 5/8" width. See the
    heat swollen ends. See drawing above for construction plans.

    A total of 24 spools are in progress for this tiny build. However
    learning to wind coils of any size that speed up your rotor under
    load is no small thing to me.






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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi all, interesting numbers so far.
    Input to boost converter = 11.67 volts at 1.15 amps = 13.42 watts.
    Output from boost converter = 25 volts at .49 amps = 12.25 watts.
    Output from stingo radiant pulses = 13.8 volts at .29 amps = 4 watts
    Total watts out = 16.25 watts
    Ratio input/output = 121% output
    peace love light

    Leave a comment:


  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi all, i figured out a way to do some testing, even though i only have 3 tractor batteries.
    I'm using my 400 watt boost converter, run normally from a computer power supply.
    Then, I'm using that, at 25 volts output voltage, in place of the 2 primary batteries.
    I am then using the stingo charger between the positives, into a tractor battery.
    Then, using the output from the stingo, into separate tractor batteries.
    At least this way, i can do some testing and measure what the boost converter is using, minus losses.
    peace love light

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    This is the one I bought but you got to hook up the grounds.
    Somebody blew one of the smaller one's up so I got this one.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Controlled-400W-Constant-Voltage-Constant-Current-DC-Boost-Converter-US-/292081800462?hash=item44016e950e:g:xxgAAOSwyltZXGC 3

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Think the ones you had posted looked like this but I am not sure
    on the voltages. This $2 unit might work.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/150W-Boost-Converter-DC-to-DC-10-32V-to-12-35V-Step-Up-Voltage-Charger-Module-/192120373402?hash=item2cbb44409a:g:KyMAAOSwax5Yu3V Q

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Sky,
    A stock motor CAN work, but the EFFICIENCY is the problem.

    I don't know if either of you have built John B's Zero force motor, but
    I've got tell you that I truly believe it is the GREATEST gift John left us.
    Built correctly (and there are multiple replications out there on YouTube
    that are correct, including several by John) that motor runs on
    NO AMPS, almost PURE voltage. There are so many ways that a
    motor like that can be used.

    Every SINGLE thing that we need to make working systems has been
    given to us. I have working systems because I have taken those
    pieces and put them together.

    I will say one last thing about John's stuff. He was warned early on
    about showing too much and so he built small toy machines to
    show us principles.


    Wow what can i say. Resting from his labors.





    Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post

    Turions drawing is correct mikey, you dont need to connect the
    negative output of the boost converter to anything, probably
    because it's already connected internally.

    Hello Sky

    Yes you are right many of them are internally connected unless you
    get the bigger ones sometimes like mine that allow for isolated
    grounding. Then you have to connect them somewhere.



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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi all, oh well, i kind of figured that would be the case, can't use the output from the stingo to charge the 3rd battery, unless i use a separate strand from the multistrand coil.
    Turions drawing is correct mikey, you dont need to connect the negative output of the boost converter to anything, probably because it's already connected internally.
    I know, because i'm running this 24 volt scooter motor off the positive of my boost converter, into the positive of the 3rd battery.
    Will this stock motor give any magic i wonder.
    peace love light

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    I am still looking at this diagram. This is how my kind of
    boost circuit hooks up and it has a 400 watt ceiling plenty
    of head room. Thanks Dave


    Leave a comment:


  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Ok, thanks turion, i only have 3 - 12 volt lead acid batteries at the moment, so that is why i will connect the output to the 3rd battery.
    Then i will use the 24 volt motor i have and connect a prop on it or something, for some useful cooling of me body.
    peace love light

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    I'll draw up the charge circuit with part numbers when I get the chance, but here is the way it goes together. The BASIC circuit is without any of the red lines.

    The charge circuit adds the red lines. I show the charge circuit positive connected between the boost module and the motor to pick up the positive. I have been thinking about moving that connection to the other side of the motor so that the motor, with its built in off time, controls the pulsing of the coil. Haven't looked at that yet, but it is on my list.

    Dave
    Thanks for the picture, I knew I was reverting back to old thinking
    with my diagrams. I got to keep this on my mind. Then I will update
    my diagram.


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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi all, thanks turion for sharing.
    Hmm, what about connecting the output of the charge circuit (in my case, i will use my stingo charger) to battery 3.
    I will be trying this tonight, though i will be using a 12 volt 7 watt led bulb, instead of motor.
    peace love light

    Leave a comment:


  • wayne.ct
    replied
    The negative of the output of the boost module

    Originally posted by Turion
    I'll draw up the charge circuit with part numbers when I get the chance, but here is the way it goes together. The BASIC circuit is without any of the red lines.

    The charge circuit adds the red lines. I show the charge circuit positive connected between the boost module and the motor to pick up the positive. I have been thinking about moving that connection to the other side of the motor so that the motor, with its built in off time, controls the pulsing of the coil. Haven't looked at that yet, but it is on my list.

    Dave
    In the attached jpg, what does the negative of the output of the boost module connect to, if anything?

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    When you pulse a coil in parallel with the load
    in the three (or four) battery system, The voltage goes THROUGH the
    coil as a pulse and into battery 3, charging it. At the same time, because
    of induction, a spike is formed in the OTHER wires of that same coil, and
    they are connected to battery four through your charging circuit,
    charging it. I use a cap with either a neon or a zener, so that the cap
    fills up to the point where the neon or zener will complete the circuit
    and dump the cap.
    This is what came to mind as one possible mod in response to this post.
    Feel free to correct any diagram you see.

    PS: I was out in the sun with no tee shirt tending the pool for 10 minutes
    at around 1 oc and got a dern burn already. Itching and nettle pokes
    driving me insane.


    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-13-2017, 05:11 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    You don't get rid of the boost module to use the charge circuit.
    You only get rid of the boost module if you find a better way to assure
    you have that 2.5 voltage difference.

    Now to this circuit you ADD a little charging circuit that is in parallel with the motor (load) so that it can run without costing you anything. It is used to charge up the batteries in position 4.



    Dave
    A picture is worth a thousand words.

    Leave a comment:

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