3 Battery Generating System

[erfinder]

Replicated by MrAnguswangus here:

Free Electricity Bedini - Everybodyseye Discovery - YouTube

Uh.....they are "trying" to figure something out!!! They don't know whats going on, by their own admission! There's nothing wrong with running pulse motors from the mains. I do it all the time. I have supplied my motors with inputs as high as 500v. The problems come in when you have no isolation between your motor and the grid. There's nothing in the rule book that says you cant take the recovery and throw it back into the grid, its not wise! A pure transient introduced at the right time into an already active circuit reminds me of that situation that introduced Tesla to the effects that eventually changed his life, the same set of circumstances killed several prior to the wise among us figuring out exactly whats going on. The folks shooting these videos don't give me the feeling that they know what they are doing.

Don't attempt a replication unless you know what your doing! I'm thinking your screwed if you happen to start throwing those spikes back into the mains at wave peaks.....pray that you don't start generating runaway oscillations.....I hope you got an insurance policy that covers ignorance, cause if it really goes south, its not just your house that burns when it goes bad.....stick with batteries till you have mastered this tech.

Regards

[boguslaw]

Good points erfinder. Questions should be first how they can fool meters and even the new ones. There lies the answer...

[JFP]

I'm going to have yet another shot at driving home to any that are interested what is actually causing this effect and whilst I don’t have the programming skills or the practical knowledge of phase locked loops I can show some easy tests that you can do which will convince you your going in the right direction ,, I am dubious of some on this thread and their motives that aside I know there are others working with good intention so personalities aside , It still takes a deal of time and effort to compose these posts and assemble the information so I anticipate that at least those who are honest brokers will read this research what I write which wont cost above $20 to check out and then move accordingly .. use your heads ! Not your emotions or silly dreams. Cold hard logic. If your a gambling man what are the odds of a free energy source remaining undetected from humanity for 150 years (never mind thousands) ? If you don't believe there is another untapped energy source Its obviously infinity.
What then are the odds of there being two or three infinity squared and cubed ? Its preposterous isn't it? Well that’s because It hasn't remained 'undetected' Its been detected all right and then hidden
Its been hidden in the works of Albert Einstein and the nationality of Bert gives you some Idea of the nation responsible .. in so much as there is any nation responsible. They have not only kept It hidden they Intend by all method's to try and keep doing so. Many think Its in the national Interests just as they might think hanging Snowdon might be a good Idea , forgetting that their sons and daughters will probably have no understanding of the idea or concept of privacy never mind freedom .. these morons are amongst us! And not far away . From the top … There is no such thing as over unity !! the laws are not broken. There is such a thing a COP>1 , There is an external energy source and most of you on this thread have had the pleasure of it … if only briefly. Enough to know its there beyond any shadow of a doubt … Don’t underestimate that its a huge step!
Now the next little step you won't like but its this .. the odds are so astronomical of there being another source apart from the one that’s being intentionally hidden there isn't .. What I tell you here is every single one of these machines that isn’t a red herring is using the same basic source. I know because I have worked out many of them now, They all must have this in common .. run from a battery whilst keeping the battery charged. focus on what your doing to the battery! So Its nothing what so ever to do with motors or Matt's motor or UFO' giggly pin or Clementies reinventing the wheel .. they are all very old fashioned clumsy ways of getting at the electrostatic wave . You may find this hard to believe but there is another form of electricity running right along side that which your familiar with your instruments don't see it but its there never the less. The mathematics say its there and when you apply them .. the effects bash you on the nose .. most of you have seen those ! First let me tell you IMHO you don't need motors , bad batteries , bad teeth ,bifilar mats .. you need to understand what the hells going on and then engineer toward it … not for profit … not to go back over the thread and wipe posts out because there might be a few Ha’p’orth to be grabbed is that what folks are here for?
Ok here's step one .. Now don't miss understand .. I have told you series resonance is key
so the first question is what is series resonance and how can I guarantee it? There are two resonances both result from the current and the voltage being 90 deg out of phase. Here's all you really need to know , and If it looks a bit daunting the major points are .. the formula's are identical for series and parallel resonance , and the impedance is reversed w.r.t each situation. The Q factor comes in as well but for the moment .. more on that in a little ...

Resonant RLC Circuits

So what do you have to do to a battery to get it into “into the zone” and b/ more importantly stay there,
particularly as the resonant point is always changing. It is series resonance your looking for you can prove it the principle if you like very cheaply .. not that I'm suggesting this is ideal but just to alter you heads away from those monster machines and bad batteries … right you have the 90 Deg phase shift sorted ? It means that at resonance there is a formula for Power P= VI cos Ө (Ө being the angle between voltage and current ) you can see then that at either resonance no real power is consumed
In parallel resonance you have the voltage but no current , In series resonance you have the current but no voltage. Now ask your self what do you need to charge a battery? Maxwell tells us .. you use it every time you buy one of the bloody things .. Amps and Hours .. and I'll tell you right now that battery doesn't care less if that current is reactive (magnetic current ) or real current . In fact I loves magnetic current .. you’ve seen it!
So to prove it to yourself .. this isn't perfect because its not a 90 deg phase shift .. but its close It is just standard schooling a capacitor causes a 90 Deg phase shift .. which is of course resonance so the question is will a lead acid battery charge through a capacitor ergo at resonance (regardless of if Matt likes the idea or how he thinks it might effect the battery) the question is will it do it all ? Because of course all the text books say .. It can't be done … Magnetic current can do no work
really read this ...

Capacitive Battery Charger - John Saves Energy

If that can charge a battery regardless of how well .. if it can do anything at all useful .. and It can and does I promise you .. but I'd rather you proved to yourself .. then all we need do is vastly improve what is happening . Now I stress to add here no one including me has built anything that will track the series resonance you need to follow .. I'm going to suggest how you go about it in a little ..which of course you'll ignore, here is a very close example

http://dnp.s3.amazonaws.com/b/b5/Bat...se charger.pdf

(needless to say if you have the nous to finish this off and set it to track series resonance the games over too)

Note to 80 % in 15 Min and he's not particularly close to resonance ! It goes without saying had he discovered the relationship between the electromagnetic wave and the electrostatic wave and employed it to track the series resonant point the game would be well and truly over.
All those bad batteries .. motors and paraphernalia had one job to do and that is produce an impulse.
Or more accurately an adjustable impulse so you can hit the series resonant point of the lead acid battery. Better by far to use perhaps a $3 H Bridge

Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Motor Drive Controller Board Module Arduino L298N JT1 | eBay

driven by a variable oscillator flip flop after all you don’t need voltage or power .. you don't need amps. Only frequency and resonance. The amps will come from the conversion of the electrostatic wave to magnetic current . Which will be sucked up even more readily if you also make a good ground connection .

The control loop … Ok this Is just conjecture I know the square root of F all about programming but this is how I would start .. You cannot see or measure the series resonant point or the Impulse wave .
You can however see and measure the parallel resonant points .. There's a video on here somewhere of me doing it … you need to scan the battery so you know Its parallel resonant point .. perhaps a phase locked loop could help here .. anyway whatever its doable .. having got the parallel resonant frequency what is the linear wave frequency that' thing you have been hunting so hard .
It goes like this... if the series resonance formula and the parallel resonance formula are the same (and they are remember) then the only thing that can be altered is the velocity.
And so it is here is EPD telling you so

Part 1 of 6: Eric Dollard Tesla Longitudinal wave Energy SBARC Ham Radio with Chris Carson - YouTube

Pi/2 of course that's in free space and so it will be slightly different .. but still a constant . So ignore if you want but that’s my suggestions . Try the capacitive battery charger if it does anything .. you know reactive current charges batteries . Get a $2 H bridge pulse the battery at series resonance .
Monitor the parallel resonance point .. adjust the series impulse frequency to suit
for all I know one of them weeeno things might be able to do all that.Thats down to control loops
Kind regards Duncan

I'm puzzled. For resonance, you need a frequency to be resonant at - where is the ac in this 3 battery arrangement?

[JFP]

How do you know? Have you built one?

Matt

Haha, you're funny - you should be on the stage.

Yes, of course I've built circuits consisting of a battery and a resistor - and ones with motors and generators.
I'm also an electronics engineer of almost 40 years standing; and a Chrartered Physicist; have a good mathematical background; understand the concept of efficiency; and have many many years of practical and theoretical experience from working in industry.

If you want to spend the cash on 200W metal clad resistors to try out what was proposed, then go ahead - who am I to stop you - but be prepared for an empty pocket and disappointment. If you're after a heater, I can recommend much cheaper solutions.

Best Wishes
J

[JFP]

This is insanity at its best. Someone tell the guy to stop now before he burns his house down!

Regards

Where do you see the fire risk?

[erfinder]

Where do you see the fire risk?

Why do you ask?

[citfta]

Not being funny

Hi JFP,

I understand your skepticism. But I am sure Matt was being serious. In spite of all your training and experience you should keep a more open mind.

I also have many years experience working as an industrial maintenance electrician. And I also have a degree in electronics. When I first heard about David (Turion) a few years ago I tried his circuit at that time and didn't see anything special. I wrote him off as a young kid that didn't really know what he was doing. Then he showed up here and Matt got involved and started seeing some interesting things. Since I know Matt personally I decided to check this circuit out again. When connected correctly and using the right "dead" battery this circuit will do things that will amaze you.

I have personally had the system running for over 5 hours with a load on the motor and a load on battery 3 and my primary batteries did not drop at all. After turning the system off my primary batteries went up in voltage higher than they were before I started the run. Normal understanding of battery chemistry and recovery does not explain that.

So I know Matt was serious when he asked if you had built this circuit. Until you actually see what it can do you are not really qualified to make judgments about it. If you think you can convince those of us that have seen it work that we are wrong you are wasting your time here. Once you see it work there is no one that can convince you it doesn't.

Haha, you're funny - you should be on the stage.

Yes, of course I've built circuits consisting of a battery and a resistor - and ones with motors and generators.
I'm also an electronics engineer of almost 40 years standing; and a Chrartered Physicist; have a good mathematical background; understand the concept of efficiency; and have many many years of practical and theoretical experience from working in industry.


Best Wishes
J

Respectfully, Carroll

[Matthew Jones]

Haha, you're funny - you should be on the stage.

Yes, of course I've built circuits consisting of a battery and a resistor - and ones with motors and generators.
I'm also an electronics engineer of almost 40 years standing; and a Chrartered Physicist; have a good mathematical background; understand the concept of efficiency; and have many many years of practical and theoretical experience from working in industry.

If you want to spend the cash on 200W metal clad resistors to try out what was proposed, then go ahead - who am I to stop you - but be prepared for an empty pocket and disappointment. If you're after a heater, I can recommend much cheaper solutions.

Best Wishes
J

No you misunderstand like the rest of the supposedly educated people who come here and try to discredit everything they don't understand.

The question, Have you built the 3bgs circuit as outlined in the beginning of the thread?

And few more question. Does your education allow you to even understand the flow of energy in this circuit and the potentials that show up when the dipoles are not used up? Do you have the means to measure the input of environmental energy into this system?
How much experience do actually have with systems that are entirely routed through the difference of potential without grounding the circuit? Thats not a battery charger....
And since you must have years experience with these circuits and your education of course taught you all forms of electrical engineering even to cover what we look at can you provide us with the name of text book that would acknowledge the electrical interaction between a potential in a circuit and potentials in the environment are capturable energy?

Can you provide one academically known reproducible example of a system that is greater than unity and purely electrical?

Surely with all your credentials this should just another small task of memory and typing.

Thanks
Matt

ADDED THIS::
This is the reason to pick a fight. Someone who might be able to tell a person with none to little experience the correct way to do something instead chooses to be derogative and attempts to be superior in intellect.

Don't waste your money... all you are doing here is generating heat (10.8W of it) in the resistor.
OK, if you want to be pedantic, you're also pushing 2 amps (8mA in the previous example) into the battery - but this will be less than what you took out in the first place to drive the motor-generator set.
JFP

Haha, you're funny - you should be on the stage.
Yes, of course I've built circuits consisting of a battery and a resistor - and ones with motors and generators.
I'm also an electronics engineer of almost 40 years standing; and a Chrartered Physicist; have a good mathematical background; understand the concept of efficiency; and have many many years of practical and theoretical experience from working in industry.
J

And the real flaw in all that is not that he is experienced or wrong is that instead teaching or ignoring he has to make himself feel superior by demeaning people he doesn't know.

This is the classic behavior of the conventional engineering cult..... When it doubt destroy.

[Turion]

New Info

I got a tip from someone who suggested I connect an aluminum plate submerged in water to battery 3 negative terminal to see what would happen. I did so. It flipped the polarity on battery 3. Not the electrical polarity, because the battery went from 11.something positive to 11.something negative in a short amount of time. When I tried to do that by using two motors running the output of one as a generator into battery 3 it took me DAYS to flip the polarity.

But the polarity flip isn't the only interesting thing I observed. I ran battery three down yesterday, and I wasn't able to properly follow everything that happened because I was in and out of the house making trips to the store and such while the experiment was running. Not proper test procedures at all.

So today I tried it again. As yet, the battery has not flipped polarity, but some other VERY interesting things have happened.

I connected the basic 3BGS circuit with the motor running between the positives. The only difference is, I connected a 12x12x 1/4 piece of aluminum to the neg of battery 3 and submersed it in water.
Batt 1 at 12.75
Batt 2 at 12.35
Batt 3 at 11.73

Ater running it for about two hours with NO LOAD on the motor, the primaries had dropped down as you would expect, since I made no attempt to balance the loads. The motor had slowed down, also as you would expect.

Batt 1 12.06
Batt 2 at 11.76
Batt 3 at 12.38

Just because I am a curious individual, I stuck my finger in the pan of water and swished it back and forth. IMMEDIATELY the motor sped up to faster than it was running when I started the setup, and now, forty minutes later, it is still running at that increased speed. Batteries one and two seem to have stabilized at a lower voltage, and battery 3 has climbed to over 12 volts. At the moment, with everything stabilized, I am running a 25 watt bulb off battery 3. It is showing 12.2 volts across the load and an amp draw of 2.07 amps. I am going to leave it running, but for now, it seems stable.

I read the amps on both of the wires going to the motor.
One reads negative 1.50
The other reads positive 1.45

Things are getting very interesting!!

I have several videos of this setup running that I can post for the curious. One is the video when I started the system and you can hear the motor running. Another was made right after I swished the water. Any idiot can tell the motor is running much faster in the second video. The difference between the two is elapsed time and the "swish." Now videos can be faked, but if you think I'm lying, you're probably on the wrong thread anyway.

Dave

[Turion]

30 some minutes later

Voltage on all three batteries had dropped when I went downstairs.
I removed the 25 watt bulb and connected a smaller bulb that is only drawing .83 amps. I also took a video of that, but I had my meter on AC amps setting so the reading on the video was wrong and I just went down and took the reading again. When I put on the new, smaller bulb, the voltages on all three batteries immediately went back up to within 1/100 of a volt of what they had been 30 minutes ago. I have some running around town to do, but will take another reading 30 or so minutes from now, right before I leave. That will be the last one for a few hours until I get back. I will leave it running while I am gone. Hopefully my house will not burn down while I am gone.

DAve

[Turion]

AC in the circuit

When you run a DC motor by turning the shaft, what comes out the two wires. In other words, when a DC motor acts as a generator, what does it produce…DC or AC?? In this circuit, with the DC motor running between the positives of two batteries, more comes out of the motor than goes into it. Test it for yourself. It's a pretty simple setup. When we run a PULSE motor in that position, what would it produce, because we KNOW that additional power comes out of the motor-as-generator. Is it AC or is it DC? Kinda hard to tell when you have the DC flowing through the motor coming out but also the power of the motor-as-generator coming out at the same time. Perhaps THAt is where the 'resonance" comes into play??

Dave

[LutherG]

I got a tip from someone who suggested I connect an aluminum plate submerged in water to battery 3 negative terminal to see what would happen. I did so. It flipped the polarity on battery 3. Not the electrical polarity, because the battery went from 11.something positive to 11.something negative in a short amount of time. When I tried to do that by using two motors running the output of one as a generator into battery 3 it took me DAYS to flip the polarity.

But the polarity flip isn't the only interesting thing I observed. I ran battery three down yesterday, and I wasn't able to properly follow everything that happened because I was in and out of the house making trips to the store and such while the experiment was running. Not proper test procedures at all.

So today I tried it again. As yet, the battery has not flipped polarity, but some other VERY interesting things have happened.

I connected the basic 3BGS circuit with the motor running between the positives. The only difference is, I connected a 12x12x 1/4 piece of aluminum to the neg of battery 3 and submersed it in water.
Batt 1 at 12.75
Batt 2 at 12.35
Batt 3 at 11.73

Ater running it for about two hours with NO LOAD on the motor, the primaries had dropped down as you would expect, since I made no attempt to balance the loads. The motor had slowed down, also as you would expect.

Batt 1 12.06
Batt 2 at 11.76
Batt 3 at 12.38

Just because I am a curious individual, I stuck my finger in the pan of water and swished it back and forth. IMMEDIATELY the motor sped up to faster than it was running when I started the setup, and now, forty minutes later, it is still running at that increased speed. Batteries one and two seem to have stabilized at a lower voltage, and battery 3 has climbed to over 12 volts. At the moment, with everything stabilized, I am running a 25 watt bulb off battery 3. It is showing 12.2 volts across the load and an amp draw of 2.07 amps. I am going to leave it running, but for now, it seems stable.

I read the amps on both of the wires going to the motor.
One reads negative 1.50
The other reads positive 1.45

Things are getting very interesting!!

I have several videos of this setup running that I can post for the curious. One is the video when I started the system and you can hear the motor running. Another was made right after I swished the water. Any idiot can tell the motor is running much faster in the second video. The difference between the two is elapsed time and the "swish." Now videos can be faked, but if you think I'm lying, you're probably on the wrong thread anyway.

Dave

I am currently running the same tests. My batteries do not all match but I don't think this matters at all. My third battery is a car battery. The primaries 1 and 2 are sealed lead acid 18Ah.

I have a 12" x 12" x 1/4" aluminum plate sitting in a water bath of about 4" deep. This is in an 11-gallon plastic tote. My motor is one used in robotics and is labelled CIM. Its a brushed dc motor.

I began running my system late last evening. The outside temperature was 21 degrees. I don't know what the temperature was in the lab (spelled: g-a-r-a-g-e ...) The aluminum plate is tethered to the negative terminal of battery 3 via an alligator clip lead.

I had no load on the motor at all. Once running, the system settled into a solid run-state with both primaries sitting at 11.3 volts. They haven't been charged since last March 2013. The system ran and ran and the third battery would not drop once it went down to 14 volts... The motor was running like a scalded cat... But everything became steady-state. My third battery would not go negative so I loaded it down with 2 car headlamps, a tail light and a dome light. I did NOT put a load on the motor to balance the system and bring the voltage back up but for some reason my primaries held steady at 11.3 volts over a couple of hours. Then finally battery 3 went down to 1.5volts.

Being that it was around 3am, I decided to shut the system down and I went ahead and charged my primaries... When I shut the system off, battery 3 shot up to 14 volts in a minute or two... The primaries bounced back to 11.5 volts

I have some thoughts about this system in its current configuration. I made some notes last evening, and I'll share them here for what they're worth. They are not confirmed as yet, but there are some on this thread who will recognize what I'm saying...

The more I think about it, and we all know it but I think we tend to overlook it, (or at least I do) is that when the battery goes negative, it's because negative flux from the ambient is flowing into the battery. For the life of me I could not seem to get my battery to drop in voltage below 1.2 volts... See, draining it can only take it to ZERO and THAT'S ALL. When it goes beyond that, into the negative range, it CANNOT be that more energy is coming out of the battery, BECAUSE ITS AT ZERO! see this?

So, when it starts rising in the negative, its because negative energy is beginning to flow INTO THE BATTERY - and it is assisted asymmetrically through the use of the aluminum plate IN WATER. By adding this plate submerged in water and tying it to the negative terminal (negative = CONVERGENT) we are greatly expanding the negative half of the battery dipole and magnetic field. This forms an asymmetrical magnetic field balanced in favor of the negative side.

Now think this through with me. When do you see the most lightning activity? Isn't is during a thunderstorm? What is present in the thunderstorm - its copious amounts of WATER... Its so ridiculously simple - we are way over-thinking this... Remember Wally's video 2 where he shows the battery having a greater negative charge than a positive one? Where was the extra flux coming from? It was coming from the coil! The switch was placed (automotive points with magnets) between the positive and the coil so the coil discharge was into the negative side of the battery - fortifying the negative flux field. This same thing is being done with the plate submerged in water. The metal plate is magnetically coupling with the magnetic flux field of the water and the clip lead allows a direct path to the negative terminal of the battery.

Once we get the magnetic field of the battery switched around, it leads with the negative side - the CONVERGENT side - opening the gate so that now the flux we are using is coming from the ambient THROUGH THE BATTERY - not from the battery itself...

That we need only one battery becomes obvious at this point... My expectation would be that once negative, it will power a load indefinitely and that as more load is applied - the incoming flux should increase and the battery should get colder - but that's yet to be played out in further tests... However, this is what happens in a properly tuned 3BGS...

If you consider the asymmetrical charge created in the third battery, then it becomes obvious why we were told to connect an aluminum plate to the negative side and place that aluminum plate in water. Water is teeming with magnetic flux and as such becomes like the motor being spun in reverse of what the battery would want to drive it... Both functions are two ways of obtaining the same result - opening the doorway to the ambient as the battery draws in energy from any place its available in an attempt to "right" itself... We stick our foot in the door with a load and keep that door from closing and we'll have it...

So now I'll also play with trying to force it negative with my 2.5hp dc motors... Hopefully I'll be able to catch it just right... When I ran these motors against a 5ah battery, I was able to drive it negative easily and this was without having to drain it to zero... but I was unable to keep it negative long enough to get a load on it... We don't really need to drain it to zero - we can push the magnetic field out of alignment with larger negative flux fields... Look at David's post - he says his battery was sitting at 11.something positive then quickly became 11.something NEGATIVE...

This is no different than slowly pushing opposing magnets together in slow, small and deliberate circles as you slowly work the opposing fields together... If you push them together hard, they will fight back... Do it slowly, and they move out of the way for you and will come together as one magnet... Try it - its a very easy experiment to do...

Best regards to all,

Luther

BTW, the AC in the system is coming out of the motor. The AC battery configuration of Randy's proved that...

[Turion]

Follow up to Luther's comments

Luther and I talked late last night about this, and again this morning, and again this afternoon. We are sharing results, thoughts and ideas. We are testing new things and seeing what happens. We are LISTENING to what other people have to say and how it aligns to what we believe is happening with the 3BGS. That was the purpose in bringing it here in the first place. It's funny to me that Luther and I are the two working on this right now, because if not for him, I would have put this thing on the shelf long ago and forgotten it. In fact I HAD put it on the shelf. No one was seeing what I was seeing, and I was tired of fighting with people about this being for real or not.

So thank you Luther. I know where this project would be if it weren't for you contacting me out of the blue and telling me that you could see what I was seeing. It would be DEAD.

Ok, so as to what happened this afternoon….

When I got home at 2:30 the motor was still running. It has been running off the setup since 7:30 this morning. The voltages on the primaries had dropped into the 11+ area, which was NOT impressing me. I have had better runs. So I thought I would shut it down. I disconnected the motor from the + side of battery One to stop it. Then I measured the voltages on the primaries and on battery 3 and took a little video. The voltages on all three batteries were rising, which is what I expected, so I left the basement. Then a thought occurred to me and I decided to go back down and shoot a video of the motor connected just across the primaries to show that the charge on them was not just a "fluff" charge as many people have claimed.

When I connected across the two batteries in series the motor started out very fast, but NOT as fast as it had been running while connected in the 3BGS setup. BUT it rapidly began to slow down. So I stopped and measured the voltage just across battery One, even thug it was connected in series with battery Two. It was very low…like 11.2. Then I measured the voltage across battery 2. It was negative!
I immediately connected the motor to both sides of battery Two. Then I disconnected battery One from it. Then I connected the aluminum plate to the neg terminal of battery Two. It was running the motor at the high speed I wanted, and the voltage was going up on battery 2. I wasn't sure what a load on the motor would do to the system. I pinched the shaft on the motor with a hand full of packing material to slow it down, and the voltage on Batt 2 went down. It didn't seem to be climbing as well, so I disconnected the meter and am letting it just run. It is now 4:30 and I will go check voltages again. The motor is still running on batt 2 which is at 8.24 volts and is drawing.

Batt 1 is at 11.91 and climbing very, very slowly
Batt 3 is at 12.40

The motor is drawing about 1 amp on battery Two

The adventure continues

Edit: Note to self…LREAVE THE MOTOR ALONE. The system responds to the load that is on the motor when you start, and has trouble balancing when you mess with the motor. Add loads to battery 3 if you want, but leave the motor alone…Start it with a consistent load already on it.!!!

Dave

[tachyoncatcher]

So, when it starts rising in the negative, its because negative energy is beginning to flow INTO THE BATTERY -

Best regards to all,

Luther

BTW, the AC in the system is coming out of the motor. The AC battery configuration of Randy's proved that...

Out of the motor indeed. Pushed by the reactive power of the collapsing fields as those coils are disconnected by the brushes and out both sides of the dipole at once. But wait! They're disconnected! What about the inductive coupling? Our scopes show it as a spike. Hmmm, electromotive, electrostatic, and reactive/magnetic. Oh, and let's not forget the whole reason for this, THE LOAD. The ambient MUST have balance.
Good Luck,
Randy

[Wallywonka]

I would have put this thing on the shelf long ago and forgotten it.

Never ever give up Dave.