Tesla's Magnifying Transmitter "Replications"

[Farmhand]

This little video is just to show the setup running the motor and lights and stuff.
This is how it was setup to do the current measurement with the resistor. The
two batteries at the receiver were disconnected when the measurements were
taken the small one just powers only the Switching circuit of the Cap pulser, the
big one is in the process of being desulfated.

Demo loads.wmv - YouTube

Radiations seem reduced with the extra new terminals. Still have three to do.

Cheers

[dR-Green]

Those terminals look really nice Much tidier than mine. I guess bigger ones would be a bit easier to work with due to less curvature so the tape wouldn't tend to crinkle and fold as much, but I didn't bother with measuring the tape like you did, mainly being the first try and not knowing if it would even work or not. But mine took long enough to make, so I can imagine the tediousness of measuring each piece.

Anyway I have a lot to read here, thanks I decided to make bigger flat spiral coils so I've started work on that. And I've been playing with the coils in series and parallel configurations. Very interesting. For exactly the same input, the output is much better with the coils in series. Filament is lighting slightly with only the connecting wires attached (normally I have to attach an extra length of crocodile lead on the wire leading out of the bulb and then the filament starts to glow). Also from this free dangling wire there is plasma going into my desk So interesting change in output with the same input by putting the coils in series.

I also got 4 vacuum caps delivered today. But, 2 separate packages from 2 separate sellers, 1 of the 2 caps in EACH PACKAGE is smashed So now I don't even have 2 of the same and I'm going to have to take pics and sort all that out One of them was an auction so he probably hasn't got any more, and both sellers say no returns accepted. And the delivery service which smashed them cost about twice the price of the caps themselves

[edit] On the plus side maybe I could make some sort of variable capacitor out of the pieces because as far as I can tell it just consists of one metal cylinder fitting inside another

[Farmhand]

Damn shame about the vacuum caps, I've had similar problems. I think there is very little care taken by the postal workers in general. I think this comes down to people having to have jobs they don't like or want, it is very difficult for people to take pride in their work if they don't want to do it or don't like it. A sign of the times unfortunately. People will take whatever shortcut they can get away with because they are not their own quality control, as are people who take pride in their work are. Of course there are many exceptions to this, and the problem is not just with the postal workers, it's everywhere. Try convincing someone who hates their job to give better service, there is no reason for them to do that. (Oh dear me I did another rant)

Were the caps packed well ? I've had packages that must have had some real seriously rough treatment, well packed but damaged by extreme forces, with foot prints, stomped on. If they sacked every postal worker who vandalized the posted packages there would be very few postal workers, a big worker turn around. Where are the bosses is my question ? I think a lot of damage is straight up vandalism. I know a guy who worked for Aus post. So I have insider knowledge.

Anyway when you say coils in series what exactly do you mean ?

Haha I mainly measured the tape for efficiency reasons, so I didn't use too much more than I needed to. I think i'm short for the 4th one, But i have an idea to use normal foil and spray on contact adhesive. I'll post if it works, I can't try it until I get to town again to get the glue. There is the possibility I'll come up with a different adhesive before then, I might look into the home made conductive stuff that Dragon linked for me. I ended up joining the extra terminals because it worked better, when I have various good terminals I'll do some distance testing to see the difference between more capacitance and less.

I think a toroid is easier to cover and mount than a sphere but has less capacity for the diameter. I think I need larger diameter tube to make some even bigger one's, which is the advantage to making them, we can make as many as we want and any size and shape we want.

I'm thinking about making a Spark Gap and variable primary capacitor in oil, I will need to get back into metal worker mode, I'm a boilermaker or (metal fabricator) these days, not many boilers to make any more. And I can perform almost any welding process or metal fabrication, especially structures, but I only have limited equipment.

I'm thinking an adjustable Spark gap with a U shaped electromagnet with shaped and covered pole pieces for the quenching, in the same oil container or separate I guess, as a variable parallel plate HV capacitor in oil. Hopefully with about 4 to 40 pF or more x 2. It is entirely possible that I could purchase the variable HV air capacitors and immerse them in oil, that would be easier but then I am limited by the size and shape of the purchased caps. Hmmm

Spark gaps are very cool, I must admit.

I drew this sketch to show how I think the quenching magnet is arranged in the Tesla setup further below. The shaped pole pieces I think can be just made separate and attached or shaped from a pre-bent core. Blacksmith work. I can do that too. I worked as a spring-maker aswell making springs and crowbars and stuff.



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Tesla spark gap circuit.


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Excelent to hear of you're experimenting in different ways. Don't forget to record any unusual or interesting results for us if you get the chance.

Cheers

P.S I guess i should link this video here too. It is a LED powering test using two aluminium plates a FWBR and a capacitor.
Remote source experiment.wmv - YouTube

.

[dR-Green]

Since I borrowed my dad's nice camera to take pics of the broken caps, I also took some of the pics I said I'd take with the measurements of the spiral coils and better details, so...









And I've started work on the flat spiral coils Mk 2



More soon

[dR-Green]

Were the caps packed well ?

One of them was. It seemed to be in a sealed box with paper tape (inside another box with bubble wrap) with cotton wool inside that box with no apparent damage, so I don't know how that one got smashed. This one's counterpart had clearly been opened before and was selotaped back shut, and instead of cotton wool there was bubble wrap around it and no datasheet in the box.

The other one wasn't packed well. The caps were all bubble wrapped nicely around the outside, but placed in the box in such a way that any sideways pressure on the box would have been absorbed by the caps. So it's easy to see how that one broke.

Yeah no doubt parcels get thrown about. I've even had things go missing and I know of it happening on a mass scale. Someone happened to like what was coming from a particular source, somehow found out what it was and where it was arriving etc, and they were all going missing. So that must have been organised I reckon. Some foolish postal worker can't steal thousands of £ worth of packages and not have anyone else in the workplace know about it. And come to think of it it was even happening in different countries, so who knows how far they were even getting in the postal system. Maybe they never even left the post office where it was originally posted

Anyway when you say coils in series what exactly do you mean ?

I'll get into more details on that shortly. I'll take another lot of pics and put the diagram of how they're connected after this first lot.

I'm a boilermaker or (metal fabricator)

Excellent skills to have Don't the poles need to be facing each other with the spark gap in the middle? With a U shaped one they're away from it, so wouldn't more of a square shape be better, or a sort of O with a small break in the top? Interesting sounding device you're thinking of.

Since I'm more used to this 555 circuit I've been thinking of putting the magnet back in to see the difference. But I'm also thinking of making a 12-24v AC supply out of some transformers so I can just connect the flyback or ignition coil directly to that. I haven't been able to do anything today because I drained the battery too much last night and it's taking ages to charge back up. More caps arrived and the RF ammeter but they're just sitting there I might give the RF ammeter a quick blast now though Hopefully it's in the right box and it's the model it says it is with internal thermocouple otherwise it literally will be blasted.

Cool video I'll get back to this at some point later

[dR-Green]

These are some better detailed pics with better colour representation and what not. It's hard to tell the brightness due to the camera adjusting, but, I guess considering the conventional theory claims there would be nothing at all, then this will do

Testing the two surviving caps which are powering the whole setup until the receiver is used. 200pF capacitance here



Spark gap size for these/best results



Output





The bulb gets brighter with more metal on the other end, but it doesn't seem to like coiled wire

[dR-Green]

Receiver output

[Farmhand]

Excellent skills to have Don't the poles need to be facing each other with the spark gap in the middle? With a U shaped one they're away from it, so wouldn't more of a square shape be better, or a sort of O with a small break in the top? Interesting sounding device you're thinking of.

Since I'm more used to this 555 circuit I've been thinking of putting the magnet back in to see the difference. But I'm also thinking of making a 12-24v AC supply out of some transformers so I can just connect the flyback or ignition coil directly to that. I haven't been able to do anything today because I drained the battery too much last night and it's taking ages to charge back up. More caps arrived and the RF ammeter but they're just sitting there I might give the RF ammeter a quick blast now though Hopefully it's in the right box and it's the model it says it is with internal thermocouple otherwise it literally will be blasted.

Cool video I'll get back to this at some point later

Yeah you're right, the poles of the electromagnet need to face each other as
close as possible. I just drew it poorly. I think if the poles are shaped the field will be focused, a square like thing with a piece missing sounds like the best way.

And I think the flyback or Ignition coils running from a transformer is a good
idea, I did it with a transformer that had a rectified DC output of about 60
volts (i used the ac though of course) but that was excessive so I had to adjust the Pulse width down to drop
the power that way. If you use a AC supply for the flyback it will be only half
wave rectified into the Primary cap, which is fine I think for our purposes.

But also you can still adjust the cap across the ignition coil for better
performance a bit.

This looks good, did you try it with the lights around the other way, lighting
the fluro from the wires and the filament between ?


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This is neat too, I notice the fluro lights much better at the end than the
filament bulb. I like fluro's but I need to find out exactly why they go black
at the ends, I'm thinking it is redistribution of the mercury inside. I've got one
so bad it starts up really pink now but gets whiter.


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Wow isn't that electrically impossible ? Same wire to both ends. Haha


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Those are really nice coils, well built ! The new ones will be big. TC bug bites hard hey. I think over time we will get some good use from our coils.
BTW is the criss cross look there in the middle an optical illusion.



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We need to come up with a simple and easy to make design for small capacitance HV variable capacitors, 7imix made a Tesla Salt water insulated wire variable capacitor there is a patent for it I'll have to search for it.

The reason I think we need them is for adjusting the capacitance on the output coil of the receiver to go in parallel with the ones you have on there already, then when you add a load the output resonance can be adjusted, I found when i add a filament globe as opposed to a small motor I need to adjust the capacitance a fraction to maintain the resonance. Not a big deal for now but I think it will make a difference.

I think you are getting quite a bit more power through you're coils than me,
obviously a much higher voltage.

I'll get some pics of my 15 watt oven bulb glowing when connected to the receiver output wire's AC and between the two coils. I might try a fluro there too since my voltage is up a bit more now.

Anyway nice work, the new coil will be magnificent.

Oh yeah I like the way you included the diagram to show the placement of the lights.

And what was you're average input power did you measure it ? Good luck with the RF meter.

[Farmhand]

OK, dR, here are some pics.

A 25 watt oven bulb in between the coils.


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An 8 watt fluro between the coils.


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A 10 watt fluro between the coils


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And the 25 watt oven bulb connected to the output coil AC of the receiver.


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The oven bulb will glow brighter between the coils than from the receiver
output. When I put a fluro in between the coils the receiver output is very
much reduced, almost nothing. But when I use a filament bulb there it is not
really reduced, same as a resistor. I think this is because the fluro's might
have a capacitance and inductance, and is a very different medium, mainly
fluid (gas).
..

And so lately I've been running the setup all night powering 2 x 10 watt
fluro's one from each coil connected by one end, not full brightness, transmitter fluro is
maybe a bit better than half brightness and the receiver less than half
brightness. also from the receiver output coil I power 6 x 5mm LED's in series
from the DC with a cap and 1270 ohms of resistance, and also a 1.2 or 2 watt
(can't read it well) filament bulb from the AC to lower the voltage over the
LED's, not sure how much it is outputting like that. With the filament bulb
powered from the DC as the only load I can measure 1.74 watts of power as
60 Ma at 29 volts over the DC output using resistor method 0.006volts across
a 0,1 ohm resistor in series with the load negative.

The input is about 5 or 6 watts, about 420 mA from the battery at about
12.65 volts. Over 12 hours that's about 64 watt hours per night, so my two
10 watt solar panels can easily recharge the battery during the day.
I think to light one 10 watt fluro for 12 hours conventionally it would take 120
watt hours, but I can't measure what it actually takes to light them by one
end no matter how bright they are so I can't count them as output
unfortunately.

I can seriously increase the power input by using a higher input voltage. But
at some point that would require different tank caps.

When I use the two coils in the bunkhouse all the lights make enough light to
see and get around by but not to work by. To get good effect from lights they
need to be above I think.

This is how I'm mounting up my new terminals.


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For these pictures I used the natural light setting on my camera, to try to get
a more realistic representation of the lights but they are still not correct. The
shadows tell the story more than the lights they are the only lights on in the
room not even a telly.

This is the transmitter fluro light. ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting


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This is the receiver lights as described above.


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[Farmhand]

Odd resonant overtones.

Hey dR, I was reading this Web Page Here and found this. In the section II - Physical description. 6 lines from the bottom.

Maybe this is what Tesla is talking about, when he talks of the odd number
wavelength thing you mentioned.

At all the odd resonant overtones, there is always a Vmax at the top and a Vmin at the base.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Finally I am able to light a fluorescent bulb from the secondary of a MOT by
pulsing the primary with some caps charged by the receiver coil.

Turns out it was easy.

Here's the circuit, I used a small battery to power the switch circuit because it has no regulator. I pulsed 162000 uF at 200 Hz from 15 -17 volts. I haven't
used any AC caps or anything on the MOT itself yet.


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The little Fluro in front is lit from the MOT secondary.


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Neon


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Waveform across Neon


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I think it's using about 1 to 2 watts to light the fluro. I'll try to find out.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

OK so the idea for the method of using the MOT came from the "IRWNT" Book.
I have to use an abbreviation the book name is way too big.

The Inventions Researches and Writings of Nikola Tesla.

I did the step up conversion. But with a mosfet in place of the spark gap. As
shown in my last post above.



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Here is what is said about this method. (My bold) The second passage I made
bold is important. He is basically saying that even if you have current pulses
in one direction (ie. not AC) the resistance needs to be chosen so there are
no oscillations after the discharge if currents in one direction are
required through the load. However if you want oscillations through the load
that can also be done just like a sine wave can be got from a Tesla coil even
when it is excited with DC pulses.

In Fig. 126 a plan of connections is shown for converting
currents of high, into currents of low, tension by means of the
disruptive discharge of a condenser. This plan has been used by
me frequently for operating a few incandescent lamps required
in the laboratory. Some difficulties have been encountered in the
arc of the discharge which I have been able to overcome to a great
extent ; besides this, and the adjustment necessary for the proper
working, no other difficulties have been met with, and it was easy
to operate ordinary lamps, and even motors, in this manner.
The line being connected to the ground, all the wires could be
handled with perfect impunity, no matter how high the potential
at the terminals of the condenser. In these experiments a high
tension induction coil, operated from a battery or from an alternate
current machine, was employed to charge the condenser ; but
the induction coil might be replaced by an apparatus of a different
kind, capable of giving electricity of such high tension. In
this manner, direct or alternating currents may be converted, and
in both cases the current-impulses may be of any desired frequency.
"When the currents charging the condenser are of the
same direction, and it is desired that the converted currents
should also be of one direction, the resistance of the discharging
circuit should, of course, be so chosen that there are no
oscillations.

Another observation I made is that I can light a NE2 neon bulb across the
MOT primary while lighting the fluro from the MOT secondary and nothing
seems affected at all. I made some video of it i'll upload when I get a chance.
In fact I think it gets a bit more efficient.

[dR-Green]

Hey. Its been a few days. And my plans to use AC with the flyback and ignition coils has not gone well so far.

Although interestingly, for such a puny output from the ignition coil, the filament bulb was lighting a bit with 1 wire, with my "modified Edison lamp holder" contraption (which consists of a piece of metal on the other end of the filament, to replace the need for an extra crocodile clip as in the pics). The flyback just outputs noise, nothing else. But to put a tiny glow into the 240V 15W filament, I was drawing 66W @ 240V. So this is not good.

I started with 2x 12-0-12V 250mA transformers in parallel, and they got REALLY hot, so hot they were still warm an hour later. So then I used a 0-15-20V 1A which has 2 secondary windings, only used 1 so far. I still have another 3 identical transformers and 7 secondary windings to go to get a maximum available total of 8 amps @ 15-20V with these particular transformers so there's a few more things I want to try, but otherwise it looks like it'll have to be a rectifier and back to the 555 circuit.

Either way I want to do away with relying on the battery because it literally took 4 days to charge back up off the SSG after I drained it too much the other night. It's all about the input with the battery. I can't deliberately go for more output because I'm trying to keep within the limits of the battery, so I don't much like this way of working/experimenting. And I don't want to destroy my only remaining switched mode PSU, so these transformers look like the only option, besides using the NST.

Also before I forget, the good news is that both sellers have agreed to replace the broken caps for free so they're on the way. The RF ammeter didn't show any signs of movement whatsoever. But the lower end of the scale is quite close together and it expands higher up the range, so I don't know if there's microamps or milliapms going through it but it's too fine to be able to tell, so that's another reason why I want more output, to see if the meter even works or not.

But also you can still adjust the cap across the ignition coil for better
performance a bit.

Would a cap across the ignition coil powered from an AC source make a difference?

This looks good, did you try it with the lights around the other way, lighting the fluro from the wires and the filament between ?

Not with this particular setup. The last time I tried that, the bulb consumed all the power before it even got to the receiving coil so I didn't get any output. And the receiver doesn't light the fluorescent too well with a neon or resistor between the coils to begin with.

I'm mostly concentrating on lighting the bulb from the transmitter because I'm basically using it as an indicator as to what kind of power output I'm getting by changing things. I'm assuming that the better I can light the bulb from the transmitter, the better overall performance will be when I use the receiver.

Wow isn't that electrically impossible ?

Isn't it all pretty much electrically impossible? I suppose both bulbs going to the same fluoro makes it look all the more strange

Those are really nice coils, well built ! The new ones will be big. TC bug bites hard hey. I think over time we will get some good use from our coils.
BTW is the criss cross look there in the middle an optical illusion.

Thank you The new ones will be 60cm diameter I don't know whether to use the same wire size or get some thicker wire though. The criss cross is the wires crossing over into the next inside turn. It goes all the way round once, then another turn goes on top of that one, then it crosses over into the next notch, 1 turn again, then another on top of that, and cross over to the next notch.

Yeah there's a lot of different things to try with the coils. I'm thinking of also mixing up the sizes when I get things finished, to see what kind of interactions may be happening. I don't know if it will actually work this way, but in my mind at least, setting up artificial differentials or imbalance with the different frequencies.

What I'd also like to try is Fibonacci ratios of different sized coils to see how they interact with each other, in the same way that the two spirals of a pine cone are different sizes. And a coil made with Fibonacci ratios, but I think I mentioned before something like that would get pretty huge as the spiral gets bigger keeping to the proper ratio so I don't know about that yet. Plenty of plans, just not quite as easy to make them a reality

The reason I think we need them is for adjusting the capacitance on the output coil of the receiver to go in parallel with the ones you have on there already, then when you add a load the output resonance can be adjusted

That makes sense, but I wonder how Tesla was planning on doing this, because how could you adjust the resonance if the whole population is switching loads on and off and constantly changing the resonance. How could you do it on a practical personal level so you can just switch the lights on without having to tune it. How could you make it so that Joe Sixpack could operate it

I think you are getting quite a bit more power through you're coils than me, obviously a much higher voltage.

I'm not so sure. The voltage is probably higher seeing as I'm putting a few thousand in compared to 12-24, but I can't run a motor from the receiver output. Then again the voltage might be pretty high from your helical coil compared to my spiral

And what was you're average input power did you measure it ?

About 1.8 amps I'm trying to keep within the C20 rate of my 36Ah battery, but I also pushed it up to 2-2.2A for one of the pics I think, maybe the open loop filament one to make it look a bit more impressive. It's higher than I'd like which is why I want to try different methods of powering it to try and determine if this is reasonable or not, but at the same time I don't like to be limited by the battery in this way.

[Farmhand]

Hi dR, You're back.

Hey. Its been a few days. And my plans to use AC with the flyback and ignition coils has not gone well so far.

Although interestingly, for such a puny output from the ignition coil, the filament bulb was lighting a bit with 1 wire, with my "modified Edison lamp holder" contraption (which consists of a piece of metal on the other end of the filament, to replace the need for an extra crocodile clip as in the pics). The flyback just outputs noise, nothing else. But to put a tiny glow into the 240V 15W filament, I was drawing 66W @ 240V. So this is not good.

Yes that's not so good.

I started with 2x 12-0-12V 250mA transformers in parallel, and they got REALLY hot, so hot they were still warm an hour later. So then I used a 0-15-20V 1A which has 2 secondary windings, only used 1 so far. I still have another 3 identical transformers and 7 secondary windings to go to get a maximum available total of 8 amps @ 15-20V with these particular transformers so there's a few more things I want to try, but otherwise it looks like it'll have to be a rectifier and back to the 555 circuit.

Be careful I was worried about you.

Either way I want to do away with relying on the battery because it literally took 4 days to charge back up off the SSG after I drained it too much the other night. It's all about the input with the battery. I can't deliberately go for more output because I'm trying to keep within the limits of the battery, so I don't much like this way of working/experimenting. And I don't want to destroy my only remaining switched mode PSU, so these transformers look like the only option, besides using the NST.

I'm opposite, I don't like using the grid, but I have a lot of big batteries and
some solar panels and HF desulfators, so I'm setup for it.

Also before I forget, the good news is that both sellers have agreed to replace the broken caps for free so they're on the way. The RF ammeter didn't show any signs of movement whatsoever. But the lower end of the scale is quite close together and it expands higher up the range, so I don't know if there's microamps or milliapms going through it but it's too fine to be able to tell, so that's another reason why I want more output, to see if the meter even works or not.

Excelent that is good of them good suppliers.

Would a cap across the ignition coil powered from an AC source make a difference?

Yeah I think it does, but for AC it needs to be non-polarised.

I'm mostly concentrating on lighting the bulb from the transmitter because I'm basically using it as an indicator as to what kind of power output I'm getting by changing things. I'm assuming that the better I can light the bulb from the transmitter, the better overall performance will be when I use the receiver.

No probs, but that can be a little deceiving because it will all change with the
receiver coil connected. It is very good to experiment and observe though so
you can see why later.

That will only be true if the transmitter is connected to the ground and
transmission is through the ground. Because the transmitter in that case is
tuned to transmit through the ground and connecting a receiver to the huge
earth will have little effect on the transmitter. However if not using the
ground then what as the transmission medium ? If it's only a wire then
connecting the receiver coil to that will have a large effect. Then there is the
"near object" thing and the "body effect" when near the coil also.

What is connected to the outer end of the HV winding of the transmitter ?

Isn't it all pretty much electrically impossible? I suppose both bulbs going to the same fluoro makes it look all the more strange

Yeah supposed to be but obviously not, its a cool photo, I like it.

Thank you The new ones will be 60cm diameter I don't know whether to use the same wire size or get some thicker wire though. The criss cross is the wires crossing over into the next inside turn. It goes all the way round once, then another turn goes on top of that one, then it crosses over into the next notch, 1 turn again, then another on top of that, and cross over to the next notch.

I didn't know you had turns on top of turns, I would have changed groves one
groove back and keep the wires separated, is there no arcing there ?

Yeah there's a lot of different things to try with the coils. I'm thinking of also mixing up the sizes when I get things finished, to see what kind of interactions may be happening. I don't know if it will actually work this way, but in my mind at least, setting up artificial differentials or imbalance with the different frequencies.

Yes there is lots of stuff to experiment with these things.

That makes sense, but I wonder how Tesla was planning on doing this, because how could you adjust the resonance if the whole population is switching loads on and off and constantly changing the resonance. How could you do it on a practical personal level so you can just switch the lights on without having to tune it. How could you make it so that Joe Sixpack could operate it

Well this relates to the tuning above. Because Tesla had his Magnifying
Transmitter tuned to the planet. He only needed the transmitter to tune the
transmitter. If we could lower our working frequency to attain resonance at
below 35 Khz as Tesla stated is needed for good Earth transfer then we could
tune to resonance the transmitter to the Earth, and when a receiver is tuned in it won't
change the resonant frequency of the circuit because the earth is so
massive. There is a lot of difference between a piece of wire and a planet.

I'm not so sure. The voltage is probably higher seeing as I'm putting
a few thousand in compared to 12-24, but I can't run a motor from the
receiver output. Then again the voltage might be pretty high from your helical
coil compared to my spiral

Then the receiver needs to be tuned to the transmitter as the transmitter is
tuned for me, this needed to be done slowly in increments back and forth for
me, I was able to do this easily because I can use the scope and run the
setup for long periods but for you a very small adjustment in the capacitance
of the receiver output coil should work. Un-tuned or out of tune my receiver
gives very little.

About 1.8 amps I'm trying to keep within the C20 rate of my 36Ah battery, but I also pushed it up to 2-2.2A for one of the pics I think, maybe the open loop filament one to make it look a bit more impressive. It's higher than I'd like which is why I want to try different methods of powering it to try and determine if this is reasonable or not, but at the same time I don't like to be limited by the battery in this way.

Yeah that's a fair bit of power, that will drain a battery down if it's overloaded
and good to respect the battery.

Cheers.

[dR-Green]

And the 25 watt oven bulb connected to the output coil AC of the receiver.



The oven bulb will glow brighter between the coils than from the receiver
output. When I put a fluro in between the coils the receiver output is very
much reduced, almost nothing. But when I use a filament bulb there it is not
really reduced, same as a resistor. I think this is because the fluro's might
have a capacitance and inductance, and is a very different medium, mainly
fluid (gas).

420mA for that? Doesn't look bad at all Can you drive the input with more power? I mean, that's a 25w bulb with 5w input, so what happens if you increase the input.

The bulb is also brighter between my coils than the receiver output, but we seem to have the opposite effect happening. With a bulb between the coils my receiver output is reduced or non-existent, but with a fluoro it isn't really affected. A 1k resistor doesn't really affect it either, the bulb is about 360 ohms if I remember correctly.

To get good effect from lights they need to be above I think.

Hehe. Yeah, although I think there are ways you can play with it. I like to shine small lights at the white ceiling so the whole room fills with some ambient light, trying to spread what little light there is rather than have it concentrated in one spot. If they're not enough to work by at least they're enough to be able to walk around without falling over stuff. Something I want to try is put a fluoro in a bottle of water. First to see what will happen, and also the water/bottle should scatter the light. Also some AV plugs and LEDs in water.

Maybe this is what Tesla is talking about, when he talks of the odd number wavelength thing you mentioned.

Interesting, thanks. I still haven't read what was posted on previous pages yet so plenty to get through here It would be nice to find where I originally read it

Very nice work there anyway, thanks for sharing

I also forgot to mention earlier, I had a bit of an epiphany after playing with an AV plug and LEDs the night I drained the battery. This might be obvious to others already or irrelevant but it suddenly made sense to me and at least helps me in terms of being able to think about it. Walking around the room with the AV plug, I noticed that it was working up to about 8 feet away from the coils. But then I realised I could make it brighter in my left hand by extending my right hand into the field of the coil. So I was clearly becoming a conductor and my body could transfer the energy to light the LEDs. This got me thinking of how to light LEDs remotely with a conductor near the coil, but then that would require wires from the conductor to the LEDs, which would defy the point. And then I realised, THE EARTH. The earth is a "physical body" like mine, it extends to all "remote locations" and in all directions except up, it can touch the terminal of the coil directly where I fear to do so, and it can also be in direct contact with the receiving load, in this case the AV plug.

So I don't know what that means to anyone else, but now I think I'm starting to understand, or at least I have a concept to be able to think about the whole thing.