Originally posted by skaght
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Joule Ringer!
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@minoly
Could you post a schematic for feeding back to the battery? I've tried rectifying the output, but it kills the effect when I connect it to the supply.
Thanks!
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Transformer neo.
Thanks for pointing that out. I missed that detail on first viewing. Sounds like you succeeded at looping back to source to fashion a self runner that way. Congratulations!Originally posted by minoly View PostIt does. If you look at the 10 second mark on this vid.
you can see a tiny round neo on the transformer
YouTube - min2oly's Channel
today she likes this one-

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I think lidmotor's last video showing the low setting is a good step toward isolating the extended time that LS got with just a few brief taps on the battery. The low setting allows experimentation from outside the circuit without losing what I refer to as population inversion. That is the number of excited ions to non-excited ions is relatively stable at low luminescience.
I put together a colpitt oscillator puts out spikes @t 50khz. about 1 mA hoping John Bedini will look at it, maybe it could be made to do some good ZP pulsing.
I also appreciate the scope shots, as they have made a difference.
I just got in from work and I look forward to reading everything more carefully.
after I get some sleep. thanks good job guys
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that's a nice disco light dude
we rectified the second coil w/ no problem and fed it back into the 6 volt battery, thereby closing the loop (Bedini/Cole style) - pulls 345mA, nice light, and the voltage remains constant for 24 hours. you've got to make sure and do it tesla impulse style
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Ive used a flyback from a monitor - I dont have the same impressive results as the fuji transformer, but it does work.Originally posted by sniky View Post
I don't have the camera transformer part and I wonder if it can be done some other way....
Seeing as everyone is ripping apart their disposable camera, why not make use of the flash, eh? It works really well. I've put mine on the output and it will blink for about 5 mins (12V initial input from lead battery). It will also get brighter when i touch the ends of my 1 microfarad cap (lowering the resistance like lid and laser showed). I've adjusted my circuit - im using a neon in parallel with the small cap, instead of the resistor - it has a higher resistance than any of the resistors i have handy (i think - not sure as my multimetre is broken) and seems to work much better. Sorry, like always, for the poor quality of the vid. But i just wanted to show that the flash can come in very handy:
YouTube - xenon flash ringer
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The best results in that direction that I was able to achieve was with an AV plug off the output to a small high voltage cap. I could make a spark gap with the capacitor, while still running on low power at the input. I tried running the spark gap through a number of different style transformers, but could not convert the spark gap into usable power even though there seemed to be more power present than the circuit was consuming. The capacitor measured something around 300 volts, and yet the spark gap (based on voltage discharge distance) looked more like 2000 or more.
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I was wondering if someone manage to charge another capacitor (like on the joule thief with the diode on Colector) because it can be made a circuit
with a 555( with a 20-80 duty cycle or 30-70 ) and a flip flop to energize the first cap and then charge a capacitor + scr-zenner-led- (like in ferris well) to recharge the same battery ... and make some light....
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I tried to do both, and neither worked. I made a couple self wound transformers and couldn't get the effect. In addition, it doesn't self charge a capacitor well at all since the voltage is high and the frequency is high as well, so it just seems to conduct right through a larger capacitor rather than charge it. In addition, it changes circuit behavior radically when you change the output impedance.Last edited by skaght; 01-21-2011, 06:44 AM.
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Did anyone make his own hv transformer and replicated this?
or did anyone charge another 10.000uF capacitor when running this only from the capacitor?
I don't have the camera transformer part and I wonder if it can be done some other way....
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Originally posted by synchro View PostI see a comparison between the "backspike" in the scope shots and the charge from my Leon Dragone magnet pump. The pump is simply an air core bifilar sandwiched between two large disc magnets in attraction. I charge the hi voltage bifilar coil through a DPDT reed switch, and collect the output in a capacitor from the other side of the switch. The point of this demonstration is that after the field collapses, a powerful current is generated in the coil from the field oscilation of the coil and magnets alone.
I believe the same thing happens in the Joule Ringer circuit. The difference is the Earth's magnetic field acts in place of the magnets around the hi voltage transformer when the CFL pulses.
Mopozco has a TROS CFL video where he brings a pair of magnets near the transformer, and the CFL Intensifies in brightness. I believe the Joule Ringer would act the same way.
It does. If you look at the 10 second mark on this vid.
you can see a tiny round neo on the transformer
YouTube - min2oly's Channel
today she likes this one-
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I see a comparison between the "backspike" in the scope shots and the charge from my Leon Dragone magnet pump. The pump is simply an air core bifilar sandwiched between two large disc magnets in attraction. I charge the hi voltage bifilar coil with a battery through a DPDT reed switch, and collect the output in a capacitor and diode from the other side of the switch. The point of this demonstration is that after the field collapses, a powerful current is generated in the coil from the field oscilation of the coil and magnets alone.Originally posted by hartiberlin View Post
I believe the same thing happens in the Joule Ringer circuit. The difference is the Earth's magnetic field acts in place of the magnets around the hi voltage transformer when the CFL pulses.
Mopozco has a TROS CFL video where he brings a pair of magnets near the transformer, and the CFL Intensifies in brightness. I believe the Joule Ringer would act the same way.Last edited by synchro; 01-21-2011, 02:10 AM.
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Thank you!Originally posted by Lidmotor View PostThe reason that I liked this board was that it was very easy to mod for this application. Basically you remove EVERYTHING except the transistor and the transformer. The circuit is already there for the basic oscillator.
(A) The big high voltage capacitor you cut off but leave part of the wires for a place to attach the CFL to.
(B) The HV diode leading to that cap you just jumper or if you remove it replace it with a wire.
(C) The push button on the back of the board you also jumper.
(D) Remove the little 220 ohm resistor sitting next to the transformer and that is where I added the .22uf cap and resistor instead. The bifilar coil & diodes would go there also if you want to use that method.
(E) The 10,000 uf cap goes at the (+) and (-) input of the board
(F) Your done. Time for fun.
Lidmotor
P.S. Be careful not to accidentally reverse the input battery terminals or use too much voltage. I have blown the transistor three times that way and it is a pain replacing it.
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ElectronicGoldmine strobe board
The reason that I liked this board was that it was very easy to mod for this application. Basically you remove EVERYTHING except the transistor and the transformer. The circuit is already there for the basic oscillator.Originally posted by altrez View Post@Lidmotor,
Can you please explain the pin outs of the small strobe board? I want to order some to replicate. I have the schematic from xee2 I am just not sure how its wired on the bottom.
Thank you!
-Altrez
(A) The big high voltage capacitor you cut off but leave part of the wires for a place to attach the CFL to.
(B) The HV diode leading to that cap you just jumper or if you remove it replace it with a wire.
(C) The push button on the back of the board you also jumper.
(D) Remove the little 220 ohm resistor sitting next to the transformer and that is where I added the .22uf cap and resistor instead. The bifilar coil & diodes would go there also if you want to use that method.
(E) The 10,000 uf cap goes at the (+) and (-) input of the board
(F) Your done. Time for fun.
Lidmotor
P.S. Be careful not to accidentally reverse the input battery terminals or use too much voltage. I have blown the transistor three times that way and it is a pain replacing it.
Last edited by Lidmotor; 01-20-2011, 03:53 PM.
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Heres a video of the results i got with conrads diagram (tip31s in a darlington pair) using a 4W cfl tube, a neon, and a xenon beaker. All would continue to blink for at least a minute after the battery was removed.
YouTube - flyback with darlington pair
Yeah - i know. Pretty un-amazing considering the vids that have already been shown on here. Nonetheless, it was a pleasant feeling to finally get some action, so thanks guys!
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