Joule Ringer!

[Harvester]

Hi,

Somewhere I have read that Sir Bedini apparently rectifies his charger
output, so that the batteries can still be charged using normal chargers.

I have build a slightly modified version of http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post169957 circuit and have
rectified the output and added a cap to it.
I also read somewhere that a cap at the output apparently helps the
charging process. I wander if I have mixed up too many posts I have read

The charger input is 12V 1.25A and the output is 235V without load and
when hooking it up to a battery, then the voltage reduces to ~87V.
The 12V lead acid car battery is 13 years old and only shows 10.5V.

When using normal radiant charging, the battery gets hit with short high V
pulses, right?
My setup should still have the pulses, but keeps the charging voltage
at over 80V. Or does rectifying the output modify the radiant charge?

I am a bit worried that the battery will come apart at 80V. When shorting
the output cap, it gives a descent(!!) spark.

The question now is, am I on the right track, or have I build a battery killer?

[kcarring]

@T-1000

Very valid thought. All too much effort on simple blocking oscillators and not enough on step two. Bedini's, joule thieves... it's all explainable by Steinmetz's math.

Working on the next level. Still reading, the original patents... but very good point. There are levels here... building blocks... i like the royer circuit so far though, because it is a sine wave.. and sets to resonance. different than a blocking oscillator, possibly facilitates step two better... maybe there is more at the higher end of the spectrum, i don't know. maybe ionization curves are overlooked too. interesting things happens when you mess with a molecule on it's own stability level, instead of just heat it up?

Never hurts to get your pre-ignition down before you rev the motor though...

and when it comes to pre-ignition Lasersabre's shed light makes me wonder if we need the engine at all?!! Slider's latest has me very curious too.

@lasersabre:

I've always wondered: those bulbs you have, the 110VAC LEDs, did you ever determine if they were of the smps/transformer based step down, or purely capacitive.. i'm wondering if the capacitive (though usually considered cheaper) may hold a bit of reasoning why they mate to that circuit so well. I have several 2W bulbs, but all have a little switch-down circuit in them.

[T-1000]

@ kcarring

Try this.

EDIT: If I understand what you are doing, when the capacitor is discharged the mosfet is shorting the power supply to ground and this energy is not doing anything (just wasted). With this circuit the energy goes through transformer and builds up magnetic field. I think this will give more brightness for the same current. However, I do think your circuit will give AC whereas this one does not (but it sort of does).

If you think N. Tesla way, you would use CFL as spark gap and discharge capacitor to another winding in same transformer for energy recover. Should be interesting results if someone got spare time to try. Just reach resonance conditions...

Cheers!

[Billxx]

@ Billxx

Very nice build. What are using for toroid and how many turns? I have not been able to light an unmodified CFL using a small toroid.

Thanks, xee2. The CFL is modified, I removed the electronic ballast. I modified 3 CFL's - 9W, 13W, and 18W for testing. This is just a modified fuji circuit. I saw the discussions and a couple YouTube videos about the Toroid project you're talking about, this isn't that, although it might be an interesting project. My next project may be a solid state generator driving the CFL (without a battery?).

[Billxx]

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

Thanks, LaserSaber. The base is a surface mount fixture adapter for a single electrical outlet box I bought from Home Depot, there is another bigger one to connect to a std 4" box. I cut a round piece of 1/8" thick plastic to fit inside and mounted with #4 screws and mounted the battery holder to that. I just stuck felt pads to the plate on the bottom. Really worked out well, lots of room too.

[totoalas]

Thank you for sharing this.
Do you have a circuit diagram for this? What type inductor are you using?
Very Best Regards,
Jim

hi
using only one 10 k and a diode to the base thats it

Tried to isolate the base connection and no oscillation


totoalas

[jehdds]

@minoly

In my case AC lines are not at play. I am running the joule ringer out in my shed on a battery. My shed has no AC power to it. I made sure that nothing else was turend on in the shed.

@LaserSaber,
What output in volts and mA do you achieve out of your large shed toroid set up?
I have found with the Sergdo, the rectified DC off the AC has really nominal current, like less than 1mA! Thank you for your input again.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[jehdds]

HI LO Joule Ringer with Less Heat 220312 - YouTube

Thank you for sharing this.
Do you have a circuit diagram for this? What type inductor are you using?
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[xee2]

@ Billxx

Very nice build. What are using for toroid and how many turns? I have not been able to light an unmodified CFL using a small toroid.

[Neight]

Has anybody made a joule ringer with the base on the transistor disconnected? Where you would normally put the resistor - just leave the circuit open at that point. I have been seeing some very interesting results running my new joule ringer in this mode. I will post a video update soon. This new design is super easy to build using standard parts.

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

I have actually seen the same thing, though I didn't run any tests on it. I noticed it when I was switching out transistors on a bread board. before i put the base connection back in, the LED lit up like normal. I thought for sure I had done something wrong, and rebuilt the circuit before connecting power.
I guess I wasn't expecting it, and didn't want to blow the transistor or LED, so I shut it off quick. Now that you have brought it up, I might give it a shot again, and measure input and output, see what is really going on. setup this way, you aren't even using the whole center tapped coil, just the input from the battery, and the half going to the collector...
interesting, thanks for posting!

N8

[LaserSaber]

@minoly

In my case AC lines are not at play. I am running the joule ringer out in my shed on a battery. My shed has no AC power to it. I made sure that nothing else was turend on in the shed.

[LaserSaber]

Has anybody made a joule ringer with the base on the transistor disconnected? Where you would normally put the resistor - just leave the circuit open at that point. I have been seeing some very interesting results running my new joule ringer in this mode. I will post a video update soon. This new design is super easy to build using standard parts.

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

[Billxx]

Fuji/Kodak mod joule ringer circuit...

Hello...

I just finished assembling the basic circuit with Gadgetmall's 68pf cap/20k pot modification and a 47nf cap from the base electronic ballast from a CFL to put in series with the bulb for additional brightness.

The circuit works good, with a std 1.5v, 595mah battery it ran, full output, for 3hrs 45min. Running it at 3v I got the same results. I only changed the pot to a 50k, maybe should use a 100k so it can be used as a dimmer but really don't need it.

I'm now going to move on to adding Lasersaber's bifiler coil to the circuit. Is this bifiler coil to improve the efficiency of the circuit and give it longer run time? In any case this is my next step.

Here is my completed light project...

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[gnino]

@penno64 Interesting video.. I understand the diagram... and I think I understand what is happening... what is the amp draw? Thanks

@xee2vids, ok will do. I figure I will take a toroid, wind 100 turns, figure out the Al, then rewind for correct uH, if I can't find one that fits the bill. Been vusy building this.

Cheers

the video is mine the amp draw is 430 mA
work also without diode with bulb connected to : C 1,1 2,2 3,3 4,4 5,5 6, with the same amp draw
in practice the coil is six wire in series and i take the energy only from one wire i have try 5 watt bulb with no succes

can you tell me what you think is happenenig becouse i don't understand
thanks

[Joit]

Since this is one from the active JT Threads, i will post a link here from a guy what added an 10n Capacitor to the Base from his JT Design.
His efficiency did go up with Leds, not sure if it is the same with light Bulbs, but maybe it helps.
TALKING ELECTRONICS LED Torch