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Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Part G

    The two magnetic fields inside of part G being North face magnetic fields at the rotating brush, (which is a reactor) allows each side of the brush to act as independent reactors so being separated and independent, one can be charging as the other is discharging in complete unison and vise verse.
    currant is constantly flowing because part G is kept in a constant imbalanced state seeking equilibrium that never happens. the discharging side along with the inductive kickback from the low primary and the secondary at the brush causes an amplification or high pressure in half of part G that flows to the increasing side to seek equilibrium that never takes place.
    each half turn this process takes place.

    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 06-15-2017, 05:38 PM.

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Part G

    Adding to the above post, when the low side of part G is discharging feeding set N the inductive kick back from set S electromagnets are being shoved in part G at the brush at the same time. this causes an addition of power to set N higher then what would normally be fed to it since your combining three sources of power you attain the amplification factor Doug has so stated. there will be a momentary voltage surge to the high primaries. this amplification process takes place every half turn of the rotating brush at the high primary from the low discharging side.

    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 06-15-2017, 05:36 PM.

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Part G

    When half of part G lets say to set S is decreasing (brush rotation), energy is being released from the magnetic field in to the system feeding the increasing set N while the other half set N is storing energy in the magnetic field (brush rotation) to feed set S the next half turn. each cycle feeds the next high primary but since no system built by man is lossless the input from the secondary is needed to replace losses from heat, wire and core losses which doesn't amount to much since currant requirements will drop once the system is up and running. once running the original power supply can be removed and the secondary will replace the little losses as needed. the magnetic fields are kept separate because of the N-N field at the positive brush so each field can be charging or discharging separately in a complete and orderly fashion. they also rotate with the brush.

    thus the energy is in fact recycled over and over only to replace what is lost.

    I hope this clears things up a little

    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 06-03-2017, 11:07 PM.

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Tach

    Multiple messages to manufacture and NO response yet Shadow. i found this little circuit that may help us. i will put it together and test it out.

    really makes me mad that there is no response from the manufacture of this motor....great customer service.



    MM

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Lag time

    I am very sorry for the delay in posting. taking Kids camping and lots of logistics when dealing with other people kids. since i had no camping gear i had to buy it all and god knows camping gear is very expensive....ie. 20 man tent, three burner stove, griddle, chairs, ice chests and the list goes on and on.

    I have my wire for part G rewind but will not rewind until after i get back from the camping trip. can't wait to get refocused on part G. primaries and secondaries are totally awesome so the main focus will be on part G, the mistical dynamic inductor.

    MM

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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by Shadow119g View Post
    I am thinking any small magnet would trigger the RPM counter instead of the washer looking magnet that came with the counter.
    I haven't tried it yet.

    Swamp
    Hello Shadow,


    If you guys just Scope-Probe one Commutator (any) element and set that channel to Frequency it would give you directly the operating hertz based on RPM's, just verify it with a hand held tach...then based on the motor Input at that -desired frequency of 60 Hz- would do the 3600 RPM's/60 Hz every time you set it to it...

    Just to give you a momentary (or definite) solution...not to stop your tests


    Take care and good build


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 05-11-2017, 08:24 PM.

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  • Shadow119g
    replied
    magnet

    I am thinking any small magnet would trigger the RPM counter instead of the washer looking magnet that came with the counter.
    I haven't tried it yet.

    Swamp

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Tach

    I think with three phase two are required as i have read and the color codes of the motor are as stated on post 522.
    this motor has three sensors.
    I will contact the manufacture of the motor to straighten this out and i will let you know shadow as to the outcome.

    MM

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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by marathonman View Post
    Tach does not work with the three phase motor. it seams that it can't read the bemf or zero crossing and just sits at zero.
    i have tried wiring different ways but end with the same results. any one on this thread of followers can come up with a solution i would be very grateful.

    MM
    Hello MM,

    Normally the Tach needs just one wire as the trigger (maybe the yellow one shown at pic), while the red and black are positive negative to source.

    If your motor have a sensor (some motors do not have it -(since they use one phase as the sensor)- then the tach trigger is located in the Controller)
    Another option would be to derive one phase wire from motor (yellow phase maybe?)to tach trigger yellow wire.

    Normally the wire color codes for Phases are Green, Blue and Yellow in a three phase BLDC Motor...


    Good luck Friend


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 05-09-2017, 01:20 PM.

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Tach

    Tach does not work with the three phase motor. it seams that it can't read the bemf or zero crossing and just sits at zero.
    i have tried wiring different ways but end with the same results. any one on this thread of followers can come up with a solution i would be very grateful.

    MM

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  • Shadow119g
    replied
    Great!

    I will order one in a few minuets!
    Thanks

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Tach RPM Meter

    I bought this one of of EBAY for 16 bucks free shipping. you can get them cheaper from China or Hong Kong but the delivery will take up to June 1rst and i did not want to wait that long. the tach is four digit up to 9999 RPM.

    this one is three wire sensor in which i will not use because the motor has the 3, three wire Hall sensors all ready built in so it will be a breeze to hook up. plus i will have a sensor for a spare if i need it in the future.

    it really doesn't matter which sensor wire you hook it up to, they all have a common ground that's grey, VCC + yellow then any one of the leads #1 brown, #2 blue and #3 orange.



    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 04-23-2017, 04:08 PM.

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  • Shadow119g
    replied
    Tach

    Please let me where you got your Tachometer.

    Thanks,

    Shadow

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  • marathonman
    replied
    Brush Motor

    Well it is about time i got the good parts in. my three phase brush motor came in and here is a pic. I will be building the housing for the motor and the mounts for the tach and speed controller this week end. hopefully i will get to a point that i can take more pics on progress. plexy did not come in so i might use wood, not that i want to i just want to build and have forward progress. darn job has taken all my time but i have this week end off.
    sorry for the delay but i had no say so in the mater.

    Happy building everyone.

    This motor is absolutely Gorgeous.



    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 04-12-2017, 08:07 PM.

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  • marathonman
    replied
    still chugging along

    Haven't had much time to do much myself as my new job has taken up all my time and working 6 days a week doesn't leave much time for much leasure activity. idiots at the electronic store screwed up my order again, now i think they got it right and rest of parts are coming. i will be working on the controller and part G.

    After reviewing all my notes it seams in my haste i overlooked an important issue with part G. while i was correct that the wire was thick to handle many amps i overlooked the fact that the reduction of currant and or voltage is dependent on the wires field interacting on the wire next to it and amplified by the core causing the reduction in the first place. after reviewing what Doug had used for his core and style of winding i have deduced that Doug had used around 100 plus winds on his core therefore while my thick wire will still get better reduction i am still lacking in enough currant and or voltage reduction to be at proper functionality.
    I therefore will be stripping my part G and rewinding it with 10 awg square wire then hitting it with a surface grinder for smooth brush contact then building the controller on top of that. after i have a successful part G i will the redesign the electronic board to mimic the exact properties of part G controller to the T.




    MM
    Last edited by marathonman; 04-14-2017, 07:21 PM.

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