Motor Generators

[Turion]

Got the Beast together and the motor mounted. The bolt holes in the frame don’t quite line up so I need MORE time to deal with that and I’m not in the mood. Only have an hour to work before I am done for the day, so will see how much of my light board I can get rewired. Might get some time this evening, but not likely.

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[Turion]

As I recall, ANY load across the coil on start up gives you the lenz reaction because you have not reached the RPM to achieve neutral Lenz. It’s not a problem when you have only ONE coil, but you’re dead in the water when you try to do it with 12 coils.

[BroMikey]

you better let me get you the rights ohms value first

here look at this http://physics.bu.edu/~duffy/ns543_s...nt_class07.pdf

it shows that a 100w bulb running at 120v has a resistance on the wire filament of 144ohms. so selecting a 500ohm 50w might work better

Another way is to short the coil when starting then switch to load.

So as not slow down start up the right resistor needs to be selected probably a high value to keep the delay close.

You could always start it up and see which resistor can be used to slightly load while not causing a run away condition. This is where you are. Slow down.you know how shorted coils act

[BroMikey]

I started out at age 8-9 and then 10-11 years was doing small engine racing at over 100 mph. Mid Ohio track was a long down hill run of say 10 degrees. It lasted over a mile. Things fell apart and I learned all thru the long years that becoming a master rigger took more than meets the eye. I have seen your box and I can tell you about the work involved.

Keep right on taking your time, like you did the see-ment work. You are almost home

Or use a ? ohm https://www.ebay.com/itm/40128799533...3ABFBMtumw2Zpf
we will need a high number not 1

Use a ? ohm resister (50watt) across the output on the coils. Then switch it out after it is running so as not to let peak voltage ruin all of your devices. This is what everybody does in the electronic field. This always keeps a slight load all thru start up and bang another switch for full load and then switch out the dumby load. Use the same style of switching just think it thru. In other words, one way you have the safety dumby load and the other position full load. Just like you are doing with the 2 power supplies

The magnets you will adjust I am confident will do much better than you old clunker.

[Turion]

So, I got the spacers put in the generator today and it looks pretty good. The motor mount I had made for the previous version definitely doesn't fit on top with the spacers added, and I routed out some of the plastic today so that it would fit, but not enough. Have to take more off tomorrow to get everything to go together the way I want it. Hopefully I can finish that up and get the motor mounted tomorrow so it is ready to go. Then I need to rewire some things on my light board. I have it so that the first thing voltage hits is the volt meter and then it goes through the switch to the amp meter and the light. Since the thing is putting out over 300 volts open voltage, I don't want it pegging my meters. That's not good for them, so I need to run the voltage to the switch first with the meter measuring voltage across the load when it is switched on. With five setups to rewire it will probably take me a couple hours to do that. Then I will be ready to run some tests. I may get it all done tomorrow. Who knows. I have until about 2:00 in the afternoon. After that I am tied up with other stuff.

On Monday I should be able to start putting coils in the machine, and on Tuesday the rest of the coils will arrive. So before next weekend I should have everything done and be ready to submit it to be tested at the lab next week. At least I hope so. I am still a bit concerned about how hard it is to turn the rotor. I can't see any place where it is binding up, but an issue there means amp draw. I'm not sure if there IS an issue, or if it's just that a rotor with twice the magnets is so much heavier and more difficult to rotate. Guess I will see when the motor is attached. Amp draw of the motor with no coils in place will tell me a lot, and I can go from there. I do NOT want to have to take this thing apart once it is all together. That's a pain in the rear end!