Fuelless Friction Heater And Other Heaters

[shylo]

Flying magnets

Tyson , I wouldn't trust just glue and tape to hold your magnets.
Maybe some type of plastic cap.
You could also make a lid for your pan ,with a hole in the center big enough to allow the mag pulley to fit in and just reverse the pan on the studs. It would be like a safety shield.
Be careful flying magnets can be dangerous.
Been there done that.
artv

[shylo]

flying magnets

Tyson , I wouldn't trust just glue and tape to hold your magnets.
Maybe some type of plastic cap.
You could also make a lid for your pan ,with a hole in the center big enough to allow the mag pulley to fit in and just reverse the pan on the studs. It would be like a safety shield.
Be careful flying magnets can be dangerous.
Been there done that.
artv

[SkyWatcher]

Hi shylo, thanks for information.
What you see will all be enclosed by wood, that will be the extra safety shield just in case and it is fiberglass reinforced tape.
Also, the magnets are all alternating poles, so that alone, is giving a large force holding onto metal pulley.
And if any of that fails over time, will use jb weld as a glue, which is very strong.
peace love light
tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, was testing the eddy current heater today.
With the thermometer set inside of the aluminum pan, it reached around 206 degrees F. in around 12 minutes.
Bear in mind, this aluminum pan has more mass than the last friction heater project.
The motor starts out drawing 600 watts, then in about 20 seconds, drops to a stable 360 watt input, most likely because the heated aluminum cannot generate as great an opposing magnetic field, since heat reduces magnetic fields.
As shown in picture, it is very quiet, stable and radiates a good amount of heat.
More testing to be done, may try a different higher speed motor direct drive.
All comments, questions welcome.



peace love light
tyson

[wrtner]

Also, the magnets are all alternating poles

I would have thought that the field would go from magnet to magnet and not up into the vessel to create an effect.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi wrtner, thanks for the reply.
Maybe if the magnets fit together more perfectly in a circle, it might prevent the fields from extending out, not sure.
Though i have seen some of those hugh piggot wind turbine designs and the magnets are alternating poles in a perfect fitting circle and it still generates very well, close to coils.
Though it does extend out into the air enough to work in this setup, so much so, that if close enough, the motor can barely turn.
More tests to be done.
peace love light
tyson

[Zardox]

Any update

Hi Tyson -
I was wondering if you could give us an update on this project. Good or bad ?

[SkyWatcher]

Hi zardox, have been going through some life issues for a bit, though if i can get settled again, i can run more tests.
What it seemed like from the tests i did do, was that a higher speed motor would be better and one that can handle at least 500 watts continuous duty.
Since the drill press motor is only rated for 300 watts, pushing it up to 400 watts, it could not maintain fast enough rpm's and then the motor would heat up too much.
So, a better motor would make this a nice heater i have no doubt, as to the efficiency, can't say until those tests are made.
I do recall Peter L. on his website, claiming that these eddy current heaters can provide up to 10 times more heat for the same input as typical heating methods.
Though he never went into any detail of tests done.
Maybe he was thinking of Bill Mullers eddy current heaters, not sure.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, just thought i would post this at this forum also.
It is similar to the design in Patrick Kellys chapter 14.
The steel disk is hand cut, 22 gauge, 6-1/2" diameter.
Drill press motor, rated 300 watts.
Tested today and it reached 140F in around 10 minutes using vegetable oil, 2100 rpm or greater, 240 watt input shown on killiwatt meter.
Not bad for only 1 steel disk, will be making more disks now to add and see what happens.
All comments and questions welcome.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, thought i would continue to share this here, since not much interest at other forum.
Last results yielded 210 F. in 45 minutes at 300 watt average input.
Had to beef up things a bit with outer aluminum cylinder and will be testing again tomorrow to see how things improved, then maybe try different oil vicosity, etc.
Your thoughts and questions are most welcome.
Here is latest rebuild, waiting for silicone to fully dry and then test.

peace love light

[sprocket]

Hi folks, thought i would continue to share this here, since not much interest at other forum.
Last results yielded 210 F. in 45 minutes at 300 watt average input.
Had to beef up things a bit with outer aluminum cylinder and will be testing again tomorrow to see how things improved, then maybe try different oil vicosity, etc.
Your thoughts and questions are most welcome.
Here is latest rebuild, waiting for silicone to fully dry and then test.

peace love light

Hi. Thanks for sharing. One question, have you ever gone the Rotoverter route when driving this thing? I would have thought that it would be ideally suited to a constant-load situation such as this. I ask 'cos I was recently looking at a video by Quantum Magnetics and he (as others) seems to confirm the large drop in power-in required with the rotoverter-technique.

[shylo]

oil temp

Hi Tyson, I have been cleaning wvo by heating and filtering .
One thing I noticed is at 150 deg. the oil changes its' viscosity and the motor of the pump seems to almost freewheel.
Be careful hot oil burns. lol
artv

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, hi sprocket, i am aware of rotoverter technoology, though i have never applied it to any motors yet.
Sounds like a good avenue to pursue to help further increase efficiency.
Do you think it would work with this ac induction motor from a drill press?

Hi shylo, yes the viscosity of the vegetable oil (soybean oil) does lower as it gets hot, but not as much as other oils.
I'm going to try other oils, only because this motor cannot go much higher rpm, partly because the belt pulleys are not big enough for the small belt (it slips) and the viscosity is too high for this motor at such rpm's, at least at the beginning stages of heatup.
It's ready for some more testing tomorrow.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, a small update, sort of.
Was testing friction heater and noticed it was barely heating up, it seems the 5/8" nuts that secure the top of the rotating paint can came loose again and caused oil to leak in and other problems that come with that.
So, went for a permanent fix, jb welded those nuts in place and also the bottom point on paint can.
It should be very strong now, after it dries, will be testing tomorrow sometime.
I've learned alot working on these friction heaters, mistakes are not failures, i have experienced direct proof, that failure does not exist, only the belief in such.
peace love light

[shylo]

failure

Hi Tyson, Failure does exist but only when we don't try.
I always double nut things tighten them against each other, that way you can always take it apart. Just in case what you tried didn't work.
Carry on.
artv