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  • F & R Switch...

    Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
    G'day UFO
    I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
    I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
    What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

    I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

    when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
    Kindest Regards My Friend


    Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

    Hello Kogs,


    The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

    Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

    Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

    The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

    Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

    The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

    Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


    Regards


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-25-2014, 06:23 PM.
    Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

    Comment


    • Hey Kogs, please check your PM's.

      Regards Everybody, Cornboy.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
        Hello Kogs,


        The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

        Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

        Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

        [IMG][/IMG]

        You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

        The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

        Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

        [IMG][/IMG]

        The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

        The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

        Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


        Regards


        Ufopolitics
        G'day UFO
        Thanks my friend for your time and effort
        The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
        Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com

        http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf

        I appreciate your help friend

        Kogs @ Work still

        Comment


        • Kogs will get it done.

          Hello UFO, and all, due to my personal circumstances, it will be near impossible to finish my MAG3 build any time soon.

          This is very disappointing to me and possibly to some of you as well, so I have approached our Friend Kogs, to finish the build for us.

          I will be shipping the whole Kit and Kaboodle to him, including 6 x JS monsters with components to populate them.

          I feel certain that KOGS will do this motor Justice, as he has had a lot of experience with motor winding, and of course he will have our support as well.

          A big Thanks to you UFO, for all you have helped me understand, and to KOGS for agreeing to finish the MAG3.

          Warm Regards Everybody, Cornboy.

          Comment


          • Cornman, hang tough

            Sorry to hear this, Bruce. I hope your situation gets better soon. Stay in touch.
            Up, Up and Away

            Comment


            • Kogs Progress

              G'day All
              I have finished doing a few video's on running my 1000w asymmetrically modified motor that I am going to put into Nessie
              The first video's are using the UFO controller I used for my first UFO project the one lighting up the 5 CFL bulbs the only difference it uses the Oscillator is modified to use a 5k Ohm pot rather than the larger one I used in that setup.
              I am displaying 2 videos showing first what the output is and what happens when under a real load then showing how the motor performs when the Generated power is fed back into the motor to assist in its running the video's and Pics are Here

              Using The UFO Controller Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN0cjrU3hJI

              Next I show the same again only these Pics and video's are the same motor being run by John Stone's Monster driver that I have slightly modified as I found when I was soldering the heavy wire to the Mosfet legs was just too hard and also I turned some of the components including one Mosfet around so as to have one heat-sink attached to the both Mosfets instead of 2 heat-sinks
              The Pics and video's are here

              Using One John Stone Monster Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrsENA6ytbw

              Kindest Regards to all


              Kogs always trying Hard
              Last edited by iankoglin; 04-27-2014, 04:04 AM. Reason: addition

              Comment


              • G'day All
                does anyone have difficulty in loading the video's in my last Post
                I find that it takes a loooong time to load videos from Photo bucket
                please let me know
                it took me all day yesterday to load them into Photo Bucket
                Kindest Regards

                Kogs in a quandry

                Comment


                • Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
                  G'day All
                  does anyone have difficulty in loading the video's in my last Post
                  I find that it takes a loooong time to load videos from Photo bucket
                  please let me know
                  it took me all day yesterday to load them into Photo Bucket
                  Kindest Regards

                  Kogs in a quandry


                  Hey Kogs, I was able to view them straight away no probs.

                  Thanks for your hard work, that motor sounds great.

                  Regards Cornboy.

                  PS. Tassie Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

                  Comment


                  • Kogs

                    Great job!

                    Almost there!


                    Keep it Clean and Green
                    Midaz

                    Comment


                    • Can't see it

                      I can't see it. I tried yesterday and again today. I thought it might have something to do with linux so I will try later when my wife gets off her windows machine.

                      Comment


                      • Rotary Switch

                        Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
                        G'day UFO
                        Thanks my friend for your time and effort
                        The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
                        Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com

                        http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf

                        I appreciate your help friend

                        Kogs @ Work still


                        Hello My Dear Friend Kogs,

                        That switch looks fine...and the ratings are ok...I believe the silver contacts will hold...but only one problem, I downloaded the pdf on it "4RH" and it does not have the way it joins connections/terminals electrically...and it comes in three "flavors"...4, 8 and 12 contacts... you will need the 12 contacts...unless you use a roller microswitch to turn on new reverse Solenoid (S2) Coil then you could use just the Eight Type

                        MOTOR CONNECTION:

                        Going by my main Diagram, you will need to derive from Motor P1 and P15 (or whatever Inputs set apart by 180) their negative ends going to switch (2 black wires) as well as the Two Switching Gears SW1 and SW2 (2 more Black wires)...

                        TOTAL=4 wires


                        BATTERY BANK (Source):

                        The best way I found to handle Positive disconnection and sourcing Half or Lower Voltage to Motor is through a Secondary Solenoid (S2)...It MUST HAVE FOUR HV PINS, Two Normally On (NO) and Two Normally Closed (NC)...PLUS the Two Low Voltage Actuator Coil.
                        It will reduce the number of Positive to Rotary to Only Two.

                        It could be a simple Relay as long as it could handle those Currents(I) and Voltages(V)...and Actuator Coil rated for full Battery Bank

                        TOTAL= Two (2) Heavy Gauge Wires plus Two(2) Low Voltage wires=4


                        SWITCH OUTPUT:

                        FORWARD: You will need to RESTORE back the Four wires from P1,P15 : NEGATIVE back to their RUN lines as previous Diagram...and Positive back to Full 36V Source, which Solenoid (S2) will do automatically when it is disconnected through its NC Contacts (Normally Closed).

                        Below is the drawing for FORWARD ON shown Connections at Rotary Switch:


                        [IMG][/IMG]

                        Note that FORWARD ON...we leave open MUST of the Rotary Switch terminals...ONLY Restoring back P1 and P2 to its position on older drawing...meaning back to SW1(P1) and SW2(P15) for Speed Gears 1 and 2 respectively.


                        And here is the REVERSE MODE ON Internal Connections at Rotary Switch:


                        [IMG][/IMG]


                        So, You will need an extra Solenoid (S2) rated about same spec's as first one, including a Diode (D7) at Coil. This Solenoid or Relay will disconnect P1,P15 from direct Positive at Full Bank and use just 24V to send to P1,P15 Negative Inputs.

                        You will also need to add a Diode (D8) in order to prevent reverse spikes from other two Gates to reach Controller and Battery Bank Positive when Reverse is ON and running.

                        Like I said before, pins 6-7 on Rotary Switch, could be replaced by a Roller Micro Switch (turning ON by Reverse Lever) then use just an Eight Pin Rotary Switch.

                        It is important to realize that P1 and P15 Negative wires MUST NOT be joint externally, but ONLY MOMENTARILY Through Internal Rotary part...as they need to be Independently run at Forward stage to their respective SW1 and SW2 Gear Switching.

                        Make sure this Rotary Switch terminals are FULLY INSULATED in exterior side...as well as no close bare wires nor other terminals are near to it.

                        Any questions let me know Kogs...but I may keep editing this post later on in red below.


                        Kind Regards Friend


                        Ufopolitics

                        EDIT1: Kogs, it is VERY IMPORTANT that SW3 and SW4 MUST BE SET AT NEUTRAL POSITION DURING REVERSE ON since they will be HOT during Reverse switching.

                        EDIT2:I just realized that D8 will do absolutely nothing about Negative Spikes coming out from Gates P8, P22...when reversing...My main concern is basically the Controller protection.

                        EDIT 3: So, the way to solve both possible damages or accidents above...I believe a Third Solenoid identical to S2 should be added BETWEEN the other Two Gates (P8,P22) Positive and Source/Battery Positive on NC PINS ONLY...So NO PINS on that Solenoid 3 will not be connected at all...this S3 Activating Coil will run/connect parallel to S2 Actuator Coil...so when reverse is set...Gate P8 and P22 will be ALSO Disconnected from Batt Positive.

                        This way, no matter if SW 3 and SW 4 are switched ON ...nothing will happen.

                        Also, there will NOT BE ANY Reverse Spikes running back to Battery nor Controller when Reverse is set On, since Gates will be disconnected or OPEN.
                        Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-27-2014, 08:16 PM.
                        Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                        Comment


                        • Kogs Dual Solenoids Reversing Nessie

                          Hello Kogs,

                          I feel better with this Dual Solenoids on Reverse function.

                          [IMG][/IMG]

                          The second reverse Solenoid will just disconnect P8 and P22 when reverse is turned on...it will get activated by connecting both solenoids (S2, S3) actuating coils in parallel (that connection not shown on Diagram)

                          I just did not wanted to use same solenoid then be sending drain signals to those two Motor Positive gates...since they will be sending reversed voltage when on...this way...no conflicts at all.

                          If you forgot and left one shifting SW On...no problem...nothing will happen...

                          It is understood that reverse function is to be used for short periods of time...not to drive Nessie in reverse...

                          You should conduct a couple of tests to check which voltage is better for reverse speed/response using just two gates.

                          Also recommend to add a small buzzer to remind you of reverse positioning.


                          Regards


                          Ufopolitics
                          Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-28-2014, 04:30 PM.
                          Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                          Comment


                          • GM Window regulator conversion Progress cont'd

                            Hi Ufo, all

                            Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.

                            Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.



                            Winding Very Soon!!

                            Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainers
                            Last edited by sampojo; 04-29-2014, 03:36 AM.
                            Up, Up and Away

                            Comment


                            • The Acceleration Underload-Same concept with the Tesla Generator

                              Hello Ufo.

                              I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.

                              Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.

                              Keep up the good work

                              stupify12

                              Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
                              Good question Midaz,

                              It is not a Mistake...I have realized the Five Pole for each coil in the Group of my previous 20 Pole Diagram will bring too close, widen too much the Rotor North Bisectors Angles...and I feel more comfortable with Four...


                              Thanks


                              Ufopolitics

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by sampojo View Post
                                Hi Ufo, all

                                Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.

                                Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.



                                Winding Very Soon!!

                                Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainers


                                Hey Sam,

                                Man, I am very happy to hear that!!...

                                Less magnet will not affect this motor to run, as long as you set the right timing/bisectors alignment....just go by magnets center.

                                It would just be less magnetic field, influencing in the strength and the generation of electricity...or should we call it "magnetricity"... (just kidding there)


                                Hoping to see it running soon!!





                                Ufopolitics
                                Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                                Comment

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