3 Battery Generating System

[Zooty]

As soon as i read "dead battery" i had to post something. A couple of years back, i saw a circuit by ozzy or ozman, can't remember his name now but he discovered something similar. I took no notice because i was too busy with other projects at the time. He basically had a bedini solid state oscillator that used a single strand coil and a reed switch strapped to it as the trigger. He claimed OU and said the key was a "dead" battery in parallel with the charging batteries. The spikes were much much higher with the dead battery in place, so much so that the primary kept its charge. I can see 2 similarities here;

1. The dead battery
2. The sharp on/off from a reed switch similar to the brushes on a DC motor.

Just thought i would share this as it sounds like there is something important here.

I wonder if a new lead acid battery with most of the acid drained would act as a dead battery

I found the pdf!! It was ossie callanan. Make sure you read the whole document. He talks about the dead battery a fair way in.

http://www.fluxite.com/WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf

He says,

There are a number of traditional dipole's that fit what is needed. There is a simple long and
raised wire antenna and ground, but this will not provide enough back current to charge our
battery. There is an earth battery setup, but unless you want to put in the effort and amount of
materials to raise the voltage and still have some required current this requires a lot of work
and materials. Finally, I found the best compromise to be "old, dead, sulphated lead acid
batteries". At this stage of my research the condition of the battery does not really matter as
long as it is dead and sulphated. As long as they are old and dead such that they can barely
light up a 12V 100ma light bulb, they will do just fine. Gee I am glad I never threw away my
old dead batteries that kept piling up.
Go down to a battery recycler or junk yard and you can buy pallet loads of old and dead UPS
batteries for only a few dollars. When I say pallet load, I mean pallet load. The bigger the
bank of these you get the batter. Connect them both in series and parallel such that if they
where good, you would get anywhere from 48-120 volts. When connecting in parallel make
sure that each 12 volt segment has an approximately even capacity in A/Hs. You can put this
bank under your house or table or even bury them in the ground. It is no problem as you will
never have to do anything to them again (as long as they are sealed)... They will NOT keep
running down. They are already run down; all you need them for is to use their potential and
their dipole and their hidden capacity. The very small amount of current they will provide for
the size of the bank due to the crystalline resistance of the sulfation is all that is needed to
provide the free energy that the will convert the radiant energy pulses and feed it back into
your good charging battery. I believe that these sulphate crystals may indeed be the main
component that is doing the radiant energy conversion for us. Now for how to connect up your
REAC. See the following diagram.

[Turion]

I think it's Ozzie Callahan or something similar. I have read some of his stuff.

Dave

[Zooty]

I think it's Ozzie Callahan or something similar. I have read some of his stuff.

Dave

Sorry, i edited my post as you typed it

[Turion]

Zooty,
From what I have seen over the last four years since I began this adventure, I would have to agree with most everything Ozzie said. I am sure that having a BUNCH of dead batteries in parallel would keep the dipole open, which is essential to the continued operation of this thing. Probably the more the merrier. I am surprised I haven't tried that yet, because it IS one of the things I have talked about trying. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. AND the high rpms of the motor probably help out too. One difference I have noticed that is VERY significant though, is that John B says that many (not all) of his devices are energizers, NOT motors, because they lack the torque to perform serious work. When THIS motor gets into the zone, it HAS that "serious torque."

Dave

[Sanskara316]

@Turion
My dead battery is not so dead anymore, i ran it for 30mins or so. then stop to check the voltage, and sad to say it gaining in voltage. I have six sla dead batts left to work with.
I've also tried replacing the bat 3 with caps i also place a diode in series with it. even if i place the diode backwards, it still leaks current, because the motor still runs, also even if i reversed the capacitor the motor still runs. I don't know whats happening. just thought I could share.

[FRC]

I have not tried more than one dead battery either but have also thought of doing it also. Another thing I want to try is using a dead battery that does not want to work with this in parallel to one that does, to see if it will turn it in to one that will work.

George

[shylo]

after 3 days the totally dead NiCds are still holding their voltage....
A question, the longer you let the motor run, does that put a deeper charge in the battery??....I think so...
Interrupting the phase leads creates a spike , very high spike...
I'm trying to catch this spike.....

[Turion]

Sanskara,
Do you have a load on battery 3 to keep it from charging? That will help. Keep adding load until it won't charge because you are taking away all the current and a bad battery offers some resistance, so the current should take the easy route.

shylo,
I've never gotten good results with anything but lead acid batteries, so I wish you luck. I don't try to charge battery three, so I have never tried to see how much it would take or how long it would charge.

Dave

[citfta]

Dead batteries

In post #112 I mentioned the Ossie Callahan circuit and gave a link for the discussion of it on this forum. In post # 134 I described my set up of 2 batteries in the number 3 position. I have run my setup several times now trying different loads and also trying to find the best way to balance the loads on the motor and the number 3 batts. I have discovered that the one bat which will not let the motor start no matter how long I let it sit is still acting the same in that regard but it is now acting like an electret. If I remove all loads from that battery the voltage will go up to about 3 1/2 volts or so even though the battery has been shorted out for several days. The other battery is acting the same way, but it will let the motor start after being connected for a few minutes. So both batteries act the same as far as a very low voltage seems to be always there but only one of them will let the motor run without a load on the battery. I am keeping both of them with a load on them at all times to keep them from charging on their own but they still show this 3 1/2 volts or so when I remove the load. When running my setup I keep both batteries connected in parallel. Very strange how a battery can show a voltage after several days of being shorted out with a very low resistance load. I am still able to get my motor to go into the zone by slowly adding loads to my #3 batts so I think these batts are still good to use. Maybe this info is helpful.

Carroll

[mbrownn]

It may be worth trying a battery filled with water or very weak acid as then the battery should be incapable of holding a charge.

[Turion]

Carroll,
I KNEW I had read that stuff from Ossie recently, just couldn't remember the context, and I have a copy of it in a folder from a couple years ago too.

I have a couple dead batteries that wouldn't let the motor run, so maybe I will use those also in parallel with the battery I have that shows low voltage.

My personal goal is to build an energizer or purchase a generator that I can run coupled to the shaft of the motor as a load, and then add loads to battery three in the form of lights running off an inverter to balance it. I want to see how big of a load I can run and still get it to balance without draining batteries one and two.

I am almost finished with the welding I had to do for my energizer. It will be done by friday, so by next Monday I will be back at this full time. For me that's four to eight hours a day in the shop running experiments five days a week. I'm putting together a list of all the different tests I am going to run, and will post it here for those interested.

Dave

[Duncan]

Batteries... you'll never see

Hi all I am researching radient conversion w.r.t Don Smith thread and came across this pdf.... Batteries are commonly used by everyone along with capacitors as pointed out by J.Bedini for conversion. as you guys are trying to find what contributes to “best option” for battery three , I though I might post a link here to this pdf http://gapsworld.com/Documents/Suppr...Inventions.pdf you will notice on page 13 that “Argonne National Labs” spent millions of public funds developing “special batteries” In the early 1970s (all supressed information of course) Still it indicates that there's lots of Information surrounding the subject of “batteries” that needs uneathing I hope you discover enough of It to drive your machine continuously.
Best wishes Duncan

[Sanskara316]

@Turion
Maybe I'll load it more, just used LEDs in parallel tnx

[Turion]

Duncan,
Thanks for that Pdf. It is info I haven't seen before.

I still remember talking to you until the wee hours of the morning about this 3 battery system at the first conference in Idaho. That seems like a long time ago now, and yet here I am, still at it. And learning more every day.

I have John B. to thank for the basic circuit, and I wonder if he knows what a bad battery will do when you put it in the third position? For sure he knows what batteries are capable of, and has always told us that the magic is in the batteries, not in the silly machines we attach to them.

After everything I have seen, I must say that I think the common lead/acid battery is the most wonderful invention ever made, and that we are so far from understanding it and its complexities that we could spend the rest of our days exploring its potential. Much like the magnet, it is a gateway to unlimited power, if we just tap into it the right way.

With this simple circuit we see what can happen if we do that, and now the work should be to figure out the ways to keep that door open and the energy streaming out of it.

We have three parts to this system:
1. The motor
2. The good batteries
3. The bad battery

The Motor: I would think that one of the most important aspects of the system is the motor and the number of pulses per second that it sends back to the primary batteries to keep them charged. How do we build a motor that creates more pulses per second?? Because the more of those we have, the more efficient this system will be. Do I take my 80 coil energizer and run it as a motor so that I can get all those 80 coils pulsing back to the drive batteries 9 times per rotation (since I have 9 magnets on the rotors) At high RPM's that would be a significant number of pulses per second. Or is an off the shelf motor good enough? I am not a designer of motors, so I don't have the answer to that, but it is one aspect of this thing we need to consider.

The Good batteries: If we increase the number of good batteries in series, we increase the voltage to the motor and it spins faster. I need to take a look at the max RPM's on a 12 volt DC motor as opposed to the max RPM's on a 110 volt DC motor. I haven't done that. If we can get more RPM's out of the 110 volt DC motor, then it is possible we could get more bang for our buck by running a 110 volt motor. Or maybe not. Maybe the fact that it takes MORE voltage to run more than offsets the power it produces from higher rpm. Don't know.

Bad battery: Possibly the idea of having several bad batteries in parallel should be the first thing we explore. It may well be the answer. Or using a resister before the battery so it doesn't absorb the current as easily. Or some combination of both. SOmehow I don't thing we are going to get out of using a battery in the third position very easily.

And the last thing I want to mention is putting a three wire transformer in line in this system somewhere. Since we are moving current around, we might as well take advantage of it by using a transformer to make electricity from that movement. That only makes sense having seen what Matt Jones is doing with the Tesla Switch stuff, and this being kinda based on the Tesla switch idea.

mbrownn,
I hear what you are saying about the water or weak solution in the batteries. It is on my list of things to try. I have a pile of bad ones, so nothing to lose by trying to make a "good" bad one!
Dave

[clueless]

A possible way to produce "good bad" batteries

It maybe an "ole wives tale" but I've heard and been cautioned all my life to never to leave a battery on a concrete floor or it will kill them. I don't if there is any truth to it. Edit. I did a little research and it seems to hold true for some older rubber encased batteries but not the newer ones.
Maybe something to think about, maybe not.
On a slightly different note I was wondering if somebody that has built energy-creator's diy efficent generator and used it in this system. Seems like a potential good marriage.