Topic: The new generator no effect counter B. EMF part 2 ( Selfrunning )

[Pembelton]

Dog-one,

I'll try to be more specific. I've broken it down into 4 basic steps. The rotor is the only thing that rotates and you have to imagine the gradual changes taking place between each step. The red dashed lines are not an accurate representation of the flux, they show the basic direction only.

The coils are induced by the rotor as it passes clockwise between the stator coils and the armature magnet poles much like an ordinary generator but the induction takes place mostly on the long inner side of the stator coils. See the section A-A image.

Step 1 is where maximum induction will occur, this is a cogging point, and all the induced interpoles will be at full strength.

Step 2 is just after max induction, the interpoles are attracting the rotor irons, induction is starting to decline.

Step 3 is another cogging point where the stator flux collapses and induction ceases. The collapse will prevent saturation of the stator iron.

Step 4 is where the flux begins to build again. As the flux builds the rotor irons will be repelled from the interpoles and they will also begin to be attracted to the next pole in the rotation.

This all repeats 4 times per revolution.

This design needs to be refined. I think the interpole area should be shaped more like Syair's cad drawing for one thing. There are other design details to work out but I think this represents the concept fairly well and I can't see any fault with the process at this time.

I hope this makes everything clear.

This should work with more coils and armature poles as long as they are an even number and as long as there is enough space for the induced interpoles. Getting the coils too close together or too far apart would interfere with the interpoles.

I don't recall anyone mentioning this anywhere so I thought I'd bring it up. In image number 3 when the rotor steel is in between as it is, the steel should act like a keeper on the magnets and pull the field into and through the steel thereby removing residual magnetism from the generating coils and cores and allowing the field to build up from almost nothing as the steel then passes the generating coil core. Does that make sense?
So I think the width of the rotor steel makes a difference too, and I think this drawing shows it correctly.

[Ufopolitics]

Running My small Replication...

Hello to All,

NEW GENERATOR SMALL SCALE

I just finished processing this video ...so will be back tomorrow.

Thanks for watching!


Regards


Ufopolitics


P.D: Great work Cadman!...nice run Jimboot!

[jimboot]

Hello to All,

NEW GENERATOR SMALL SCALE

I just finished processing this video ...so will be back tomorrow.

Thanks for watching!


Regards


Ufopolitics


P.D: Great work Cadman!...nice run Jimboot!

wow you've got some great skills. Thanks for the vid. It was very informative. In my experiments I'm getting better results with close perm mags and less steels. Cadman drawing defined that well for me. How do you think your poles would be flipping in the iron? Sorry if I missed an image in the mountain of great information you just shared!

[jimboot]

And if your spacing is right the bemf is I attraction not opposition to the rotor

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks

wow you've got some great skills. Thanks for the vid. It was very informative.

Hello Jim, thanks Friend!

In my experiments I'm getting better results with close perm mags and less steels.

The stronger the magnetic field, the more energy will be generated, the closer the gap the better.

The Steel (Iron) should "wrap" in circumference about the same number of Induced Poles at Generating Fields as it was conceived in the OEM Gen.

Cadman drawing defined that well for me.

Cadman did a great job on His CAD designs analyzing sequence by sequence, that is the way to do it.

How do you think your poles would be flipping in the iron?

Nope, the Poles DO NOT FLIP in the TWO Pieces of Iron!

Each Pole of Iron MAINTAINS SAME POLARITY ALL TIME. That is why I marked on Video Model One with a Blue "N" and the other with a Red "S"...and in Diagrams it is color coded to one Red and One Blue.

They "Flip" related to the Static Inner Generating Two Poles Coil Winding wrapped in the Five Pole Armature.

Sorry if I missed an image in the mountain of great information you just shared!

I wanted to make this video as a brief description of the whole idea on this New Generator...and not only about my test without any info.


Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[Albakaly]

I think it rw

He is asking for help to get this out to the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqWU12Db_MY

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsi...rfQBviad7JjvQw

also being discussed here

The new generator no effect counter B. EMF part 2 ( Selfrunning )

Thanks for looking.
Chet K

I think this type of device is real, and work.
Some here in Yemen has built another one the same as this and there is a report from our official channel about his invention, the dynamo type and the same parts, but he did not show any details about it, only work with friction as he said, Here is a video from the official TV of Yemen. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RauMRITF-uk

[tysb3]

@ UFO
what would be difference in Lenz law if you rotate two magnets instead of two magnetized iron plates?

[Ufopolitics]

The difference?

@ UFO
what would be difference in Lenz law if you rotate two magnets instead of two magnetized iron plates?

Hello Tysb3,

An Air Gap acting as a 'Cushion'...a 'Clutch' between Lenz counter forces and the 'Magnetic Source'.

The 'Magnet' is composed of Two Elements, the Magnet Body/Material or 'Parts' in an Electromagnet, like is the Core and the Coil...and the other element is the Magnetic Field...correct so far?

So the Magnet or Electromagnet are the Magnetic Field Source.

So far We rotate BOTH Elements in a Two Part conventional Generator, meaning Source Always ATTACHED to Field.

Think about this as a Car Engine Shaft as the Source Element and the 'Actuator' as being the Differential and Wheels that gets vehicle in motion. Why do we need a Transmission with a Clutch between both elements?
The Transmission and Clutch 'Administers', regulates the Force from the Engine Shaft in a Smoother way, so no big Load is added to Engine Shaft directly.

Besides this 'Mechanical' facts, there is more...and has to do with Deviations/Deflections, caused by the rotating Iron Elements between the Two 'exchanging' B-Fields from both Coils/Core, meaning, Inductor/Induced.

In a typical Two Part Generator We have this 'exchange' very Symmetrical, a 'Mirror like' projection and very close between Inductor to Induced and from Induced to Inductor (Lenz) Vectors...Plus, no 'Clutch' here at all...so Lenz acts to stop rotation and is more effective as it is directly sent to Generator shaft...no cushion.

So we have been 'driving' Generators like a Car without a Clutch or a Transmission...direct mechanical driving between Source and Actuator...so engine stalls, and we jump off our seats...or get ejected through windshield...



Ufopolitics

[Cadman]

I don't recall anyone mentioning this anywhere so I thought I'd bring it up. In image number 3 when the rotor steel is in between as it is, the steel should act like a keeper on the magnets and pull the field into and through the steel thereby removing residual magnetism from the generating coils and cores and allowing the field to build up from almost nothing as the steel then passes the generating coil core. Does that make sense?
So I think the width of the rotor steel makes a difference too, and I think this drawing shows it correctly.

Yes that is exactly what happens. I called it 'short circuiting the magnetic circuit' for lack of a better term. And you are right about the width too. A few degrees one way or other makes a big difference.

Hello to All,

NEW GENERATOR SMALL SCALE

I just finished processing this video ...so will be back tomorrow.

Thanks for watching!


Regards


Ufopolitics


P.D: Great work Cadman!...nice run Jimboot!

Thanks and congratulations on a working proof of concept Ufo. Very interesting, as always. Is there a larger, improved build in the future?

May I request one thing? The next time you test would you compare the output voltage and amperage using a small resistor both clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation at the same rpm? I would be interested to see if there is a difference.

Regards

[Dog-One]

Timing...

Yes that is exactly what happens. I called it 'short circuiting the magnetic circuit' for lack of a better term. And you are right about the width too. A few degrees one way or other makes a big difference.

Yes and like a DC motor, this gizmo should probably have adjustable timing. At any particular RPM, an angle offset between the inner poles and the outer poles may make a significant difference on output power or input loading. It all depends on how quickly the rotating steel can flip its flux around and where it does it.

That rotating magnetic field Tesla regarded so highly... I have a hunch that is happening within the steels, almost like a gear.

[Turion]

Take a razor scooter motor all apart. You will be using just the case and the magnets inside it. Heat the case until the glue comes loose to get the magnets out, or use some solvent to get them out. Now get a piece of plastic pipe or cut some circles out of wood or almost anything you can put a shaft through the center of to use as a support to hold the magnets so that they form basically the same circle they formed when inside the case, only a tiny bit smaller so that you have clearance between the magnets and the case for your air gap. The case will rotate around the magnets that will be held in place by whatever you have built to hold them in place that has a shaft through the center of it. The shaft goes through the center of this contraption and is supported on both ends.

Now take the case. The first thing you are going to do is mark some large rectangles on it that you will be cutting out to allow the magnets that will be inside it to "see" the coils that will be on the outside of it. Mark these rectangles and use a metal cutting blade on a Dremmel tool to cut them out. They should be filed and sanded when finished so no jagged pieces of metal stick into the air gap and hit the magnet when it is spinning.

Next, cut two circular pieces of plastic that will fit in the ends of the motor case. Each piece of plastic needs to have a hole in the center of it large enough for the shaft that is going to your magnet holder to go through without touching. to make sure of this, and to make sure everything is centered, I would put two small pieces of pipe on the shaft that will also fit in the center holes in the plastic circles you have made for the ends of the motor case. Assemble the whole thing and spin the motor case. If nothing hits the magnets when you spin the case, it should work.

At Lowes they have a circular piece that has threads in the middle and four bolt or screw holes around the outside designed to hold iron (gas) pipe to use it as railing. I already have two of them from the railing on my back porch that I replaced. You need two of these that will hold a piece of 3/4 inch pipe. Screw in a two inch iron gas pipe nipple into one, and a three inch nipple into the other. You center one over each hole it the plastic circles on the ends of the pipe case and bolt or screw them in place. The shaft that holds the magnet holder will come out through the center of each one of these. On the shorter one, put a bearing. On the longer one put a pulley and a bearing. Your motor will turn the pulley and this will rotate the iron motor case around the magnets. Now you have to build something on each end that holds both the shaft of the magnet holder and the bearing of the motor casing so the shaft is centered in the nipple that has the bearing on it.

Now you need a piece of plastic pipe that is slightly larger than the motor casing so it will slip over the motor casing and you can wind your coils on it. I am thinking of using a piece of pipe that is basically the same size as my motor casing. Cutting it in half or in quarters, depending on whether I want two coils or four coils. Then laying a piece of thin cardboard on it to form the space for my air gap. Lay it on a piece of wood and secure it in place. It will be curved up in the air from the flat piece of wood of course. Drive a row of finishing nails into the wood on each side of the piece of plastic, and wind the wires back and forth around the finishing nails going across the cardboard which is on top of the plastic. Once the coils are formed, I could epoxy the wires all in place, pull out the finishing nails, and I have my coils to put around the outside of the motor case. If the are on the plastic you should be able to just slide the whole thing over the motor case.

That's basically it. The only hard part is finding a piece of plastic pipe that is just s bit bigger than the motor casing pipe. I will be looking for that. That is the simplest and most "off the shelf" design I could come up with. Rip it apart guys. If it won't work, let me know. I'd rather find out now than after I spend good money to build it.

Dave

[d3x0r]

*nevermind*

[d3x0r]

*deleted* Nevermind

[jimboot]

Hi All here's my latest build taking place.
[ATTACH]flux gate gen Video 12. Build 6.0 [/ATTACH]

[jimboot]

Here's the latest vid motor build 6 design 12
http://youtu.be/TuuOA2Vh9CI