Yeah, it is true. Yet in the same PDF is written, that this T.switch can run ordinary equipment trough simple created or any commercial available 12V --> 220V (in my country) inverter. So I suppose that counts in as "inductive load". And it seems like it is, inverter is transformer, which is two coils and so inductive load.

That means, if we can get out 65W of free energy, I could ran my laptop from it.

Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster...

I've been playing this past weekend with this circuit, whatever it's called. Using ideas from Overunity.com I wanted to stick with mechanical switches and purely inductive loads. I snagged a quad pole dual throw 24VDC relay from work and made the attached. I reduced the circuit to only the four switches needed to swap the batteries between their series and parallel configurations. So the load is ocillating between + and - DC voltages. But since the load is currently just the solenoid in the relay, this works to my advantage. I had to modify the relay for several reason in this manner:

1) Made a new mechanical hinge so the relay spring could be removed.
2) Removed the relay spring.
3) Removed the solenoid core so it is an air core.
4) Added a small neo magnet to the common switch plate so tat it enters the air core solenoid and can be pushed and pulled as the solenoid cycles from + to -.
5) Spliced in new common wires so they are no longer acting similar to the spring and trying to push the switch plate to the original normally closed side.
6) Many modifications to the clear cover to accomodate all these mods.

It works very well in that I have a set up that switches at a 50-50 rate (verified on o-scope). I had to add the cap C1 to ensure the solenoid stays charged since the relay is a "break before make" type. So there is a mid point in every switch cycle where the solenoid is not charged from the batteries.

The batteries are RadioShack 9 V NiCds for now. I'd like to step up to 12 V SLAs eventually.

Right now I'm trying to figure out which capacitor is best. I'm an ME so only have a basic understanding of each component type, so any advice here is welcomed.

I wired in a 1:1 trasformer across the bottom of the circuit where the - side of the battery pairs are currently joined and plan to use that to try and run a de-coupled load eventually. But this is also stretching my knowledge beyond it's limits, so again, please let me know if you have advice for that.

Thanks,

M.

Attached Images

schematic.jpg (140.8 KB, 186 views)

I placed a little 1:1 telephone transformer in series with the relay solenoid to check for the expected high voltage spikes on the second coil. They were over 100 V, but my o-scope doesn't show them well at all (could be higher?). I put those spikes into a RadioShack bridge rectifier (since I am not sure where to buy Schottky diodes (Digikey?)). When I fed the output back into the circuit I saw very cool effects immediately. All the batteries started to rise in voltage. But that is not unusual if you spike them with HV as I have learned from the Imhotep-Bedini fan experiments.

Batteries all rose about .4 volts and then started to decay much, much, slower than before the HV feedback was introduced.

The wave form into the relay solenoid is not 50-50 right now, but a bit heavier on the -9V side. I'm not sure why, but the wires in the relay are still acting a bit as a spring helping the switch travel towards that side I guess. I have a 250V 22mf cap in as C1 since it seems to make the circuit run ok. Still not sure what cap would be best here and would appreciate any advice. I have about 8 caps that I have tested that work and was going to take scope pictures and analyze that way, but the Missus has the digicam out with the baby right now.

I know I have losses in the 1:1 transformer as well. What is the best transformer design to minimize losses at 50Hz for such a transformer? Air core? Low resistance? ? ? ?

Attached Images

New Schematic.JPG (51.8 KB, 119 views)

im well hoping that there will be some more explanation on the current/voltage juxtaposition and other stuff on the forthcoming Energy From The Vacuum part 6, which is called "Inside Radiant Energy", which will be John Bedini and David Clemens talking on the blackboard and on the bench about Tesla's Impulse DC and Bedini's radiant energy devices. here's two folders with pictures of the forthcoming dvd:
http://energyfromthevacuum.com/image...Clements 2006/
Index of /images/Bedini2007
been asking mr. craddock over and over when is this DVD gonna come for sale but thus far he hasn't said when. i wonder what they accomplish with their time-schedules etc..
but someone was suggesting that one of the pictures kind of references Tesla Switch, hopefully we'll see something quite staggering on this dvd..

especially these:

Hi All
I have uploaded two posts on questions and deleted, because of clearing up
the stupid questions. After this noise I have read my articles on this list.

There are two documents on same report. One is that Dr.Peter Lindemann scanned and uploaded, and that is a little bit dimmer than other.
I think, on new(clearer) version, there are some mistakes of bridge configurations on Fig K-1. FigK-2.
More than anthing else, Fig T-7 on old dimmer version Dr Peter Lindemann uploaded is over my head. I can't figure out how it works???
The base of all TR(1~6) is connected on negative terminal of Battery1 and
regardless its state of rotary working there is always dead short. I don't know how it works and if there are some other working process.

Do you think this circuit T-7 is workable,
Could you please correct me what I am missing on this circuit?

Thanks.

JANG.Y.D

after studying the chapter5.pdf from panaceauniversity.com I was thinking that you could just use the transistors being fed by the opto isolators? But now I don't know.

I've been trying to find the pcp116 opto isolators and all I can find is an ocp-pcp116 which has 6 pins on it. ("digikey") Does anyone know if these two things are the same?

Also while reading that chapter I began to understand that you may need to use some type of switching device. But that's what I thought the opto isolators were for?

If I were to use the opto isolators would I still need to build a switching circuit to run them through? Or are the opto isolators a chip which can be used instead of making a timing circuit? So instead of using a 555 chip or what have you, could I just use the opto isolators connected to the transistors?

I hope that made some sense I know a very minute amount about electronics so I am learning a LOT.

I was gonna order all the transistors and opto isolators, but held off because I don't know if I need to make a timing circuit or if the opto isolators connected to the transistors will do the switching.

I tried opto isolaters and a couple of things I found was 1. delay in off time was annoying, 2. Beyond a certain speed because of this delay they were useless. So I went to my trusty RadioShack and bought 3 rotary switches-like to kind that looks like a potentiometer. I took them apart and arranged the wipers so there was three on the disk. I then re-attached them (rivets originally) with 0-80 machine screws buying extras because they are very small. I removed the ball and detent and coupled it to a small DC motor from the shack. The Switch will go fast and arc mechaniclly. I fried a meter looking at it. I post a pic soon.

Guys just a heads up , i have got 90% of the uni sites Tesla switch course done and yes we have it constructed for the course
(almost finished)

This is solid state switching:
http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0001117dn2.jpg

This is the most successful guy i have been able to track down so far.
YouTube - Tesla 4 Switch - Proof of concept

Ash

I have tried some TS experiments. My experiments were based on mechanical switching using reed relays. I used 9 volts rechargeable batteries --- very cheap ones. I have not achieved what I originally expected, but I have some very interesting observations which I did not expect:

1) At least two batteries were charged almost to the maximum voltages immediately after I turned on my TS system. In most cases, 1 or 2 batteries were weakened.

2) I also rearranged the batteries and replaced some batteries with non-rechargeable one in a way to "repair" the weakened batteries. As a result, I finally managed to charge all four chargeable batteries to a "reasonable level".

3) I have NOT terminated the output ports with any ac-decoupling capacitors, but I have tested capacitive loads with NO success. In order for all these results to be observed, the load must be either inductive or even short-circuited.

I have NOT tested the system for long enough. Based on my 10 hour observation, I believe the system can drive a load for a prolonged period. Any comments? Any results you can post in this forum?

Circuit is finished ready for the load test[s], gonna run a Mini DC Air compressor, this is the solid state version built form the original Eike Muller document with the 555 timer, Duty cycle and Trafo's etc.

A word of advice, don't fire up Tesla switch and use the Eike Mueller circuit like we did with out a load, it got VERY hot straight away.
ImageShack - Hosting :: teslaswitchonees0.jpg
ImageShack - Hosting :: teslaswitch2gf2.jpg
ImageShack - Hosting :: teslaswitch3zh0.jpg
ImageShack - Hosting :: teslaswitch3zh0.jpg
Load tests coming.

Guys don't know if yours heats up with out the load, but be careful, it nearly burned the connectors off.

Ash

Nice. Looks very promising. That would be a damn good thing to know about one more successful replication (first I count the Bedini original device). That would be very good news indeed. Because Tesla switch is possible candidate to be built in any home, thanks to no high voltage and relative simple design.

Looking forward to seeing the load results.

Ash, are those conditioned batteries?
If not, then can you try this using conditioned ones after you have tested this with regular batteries?
Great setup BTW.
Thanks.

Hi Jetijs

They are brand new , I have Ricks Fan kit and an SSG, maybe the Switch will condition them? Do you want me to just do 18-19 etc c20 charges on the SSG with them first? They are 12V 7aH.

Does anyone have a tesla switch working? I've built some circuits but I beleive there wasn't a 50/50 switch so it didn't work.

If this switch powered a car then I definitaly wanna build one.

Maintains battery charge and delivers power on the shaft.

http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TeslaSwitch_5_5.MPG

Matt

Hi Matt,


Nice setup although I wish lighting were a little better in the video.How many batteries are you using?.Thx for sharing .

-Gary

Sorry I didn't realize the lighting was that bad.

heres another.
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TeslaSwitch_5_5B.MPG

8 12 volt batteries. 24volt system.

I'm gonna give more detail later. load tests, torque delivery,ect...
I just wanted to encourage "wantfreeenergy".
I wanna build a go cart with a bigger version.
build your own four wheel bike or pedal car, plans and kits

Cheers
Matt

I just read the first post of this thread, will read more later when have more time. Steven said not much information on web. This site has loads of info, links, movies, books, patents etc. I think tesla switch info is on chapter 5 link of info the guy compiled himself..

Free-Energy Devices, zero-point energy, and water as fuel

Nice. It looks like Tesla switch is actually working. At least with mechanical switching. That is great news. Eager to see more results.

I would like to see those pics if you still have em. I've been thinking of making something mechanical cus I'm still trying to figure out the solid state way to make it work. What you are explaining sounds simple but I could use more clarity. If you got it por favor.

As far as I can tell, there is no solid state way to create the switching action without sending current to ground.
But... I am below a rookie when it comes to electronics, so I might be wrong.

I have looked at quete a few potential ways of doing it and all would require you to either generate energy to send to ground, like monopole, or send energy from your battery to ground.
Neither one of these was acceptable to me.

I have drawn up plans for a low voltage control system with a mechanical communtator, that drives a high voltage relay system. You could use a real small motor to drive it and the bigger load would then pull off of the system at the rectifier.

Something like this would be optimal for say powering a car.

Matt

Hmm. This information is new to me. Do you know, why is that so? I mean - if we can do this with mechanical switching without ground, why can't we do the same with solid state?

I didn't know where Elts to Post this Link, its a collection of Telsa experiments and writings, Theories and a lot of just plain good stuff from Telsa. Selected Tesla Writings -- Table of Contents

Well you might be able too. But I have not found a way to switch without sending to current to ground. Transistor has to ground. I believe 555 would ground at some point. I looked into a couple of other things off the top my head I can't remember what they were but they had ground. So... thats just what i concluded.

I might be wrong!! Electronics aren't my strong point.

If you know of way in which no current has to go to ground and you can switch a relay for instance then say the word. But I can't find one.

The only other thing you could do is use a transistor like a monopole does and generate your current to go to ground, but thats mechanical as well.

You might as well switch mechanically.

Remember if you ground any current at all you will lose. No chance of anything showing up, as far as extra energy. At least my belief and experience.

Matt

Oh, I got your point.

Well, as far as I know, we could try to do it. Yet I'm not shure, that this switching will work, if we substitute ground with +6 V and flip the signal between 0 V and 12 V. I will try to find out, but for now unfortunately I have very little time...

But about looses and ground - Bedini Tesla switch also is grounded, as far as I can see, and yet - it seems that free energy was coming out after all.

I guess that would depend on what you call free energy. Extra energy showing up in the batteries or the ability to do work without consuming energy.

Do you have load tests from that schematic, too verify that? I haven't seen any. If you could point me in that direction I would appriciate it.

Matt

Well in this very same thread there is this report PDF, in witch there are schematics and explanations by Bearden and also some load tests.

P.S. Direct clicking on that link isn't working, instead make right click and "save as". Tried couple of minutes ago, still worked.

Nevertheless there isn't mentioned that this device worked for six month without draining the batteries. Or maybe there was, actually don't remember..

So instead read this quote:
from THE TESLA SWITCH

As I understand, the motor was running for 24 hours and didn't drain the batteries. Running motor means doing work to overcome friction in motor. And if batteries didn't loose their charge - that means doing work without consuming battery energy.

Something like that...

I tried to get that PDF. Doesn't come down for me. I don't run IE, It just keeps downloading the "Can't find page".

I am not saying that an grounded circiut won't work. Its possible you could recover everything you loose from the reaction of the batterries and rapid switching.

I just don't know how fast to switch and be safe, to make that happen.

I know at 40hz on an ungrounded circiut you loose. I know 160hz on an ungrounded circiut you don't. So its a safe bet for me to go mechanical for now anyway.

I also know Bearden maintains a grounded circiut has little to no potential of gaining extra energy from the vacuum. So I always approach my stuff with that in mind.

Cheers
Matt

Yeah, you are right. That link is broken. Try this.

Well I'm not saying, that ground is good nor ground is needed nor mechanical switching is bad. I just know that my craftsman skill is not in good shape, so I would rather go solid state. And solid state could be smaller. But after all - every piece, that works, is admirable, no matter - solid state or mechanical.

Good luck. Still want to see, how well your device can power things up.