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Old 10-22-2011, 11:06 PM
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soundiceuk soundiceuk is offline
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Tesla / Imhotep Radiant Energy Circuit

Hi everyone!

I have been studying Nikola Tesla's amazing work for approximately 11 months.

A few days ago I came across Imhotep's brilliant Radiant Oscillator Lite. I read most of the 80 odd page thread with great interest and gathered that people had started moving onto Joule Thief and Joule Ringer circuits.

It got me thinking very deeply about Tesla's achievements and also Thomas Moray's device.


Tesla's wireless transmission patent's were in applied for in 1897.

I think we need to pay more attention to the Patent 685,957 - Apparatus for the Utilization of Radiant Energy from 1900 & 685,958 - Method of Utilizing of Radiant Energy from 1901.

Tesla Patent 685,957 - Apparatus for the Utilization of Radiant Energy

Tesla Patent 685,958 - Method of Utilizing of Radiant Energy

I have combined Tesla's & Imhotep's work to come up with this circuit:



I am gathering the parts to build the circuit, but have no idea what capacitors to use.

This video is also very helpful: PaulTheAngel's Channel - YouTube



Here's one of Tesla's resonant inductive oscillator circuits they definately didn't want you to see:



Thoughts please
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:32 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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First you have to extract the radiant from the environment, its like sitting in a swimming pool and trying to get the water to do something.

To do this we have to disturb the environment with either electrical or magnetic pulses or oscillations to create waves. Once we have a wave the difference between the top and trough of the wave is the maximum potential that can be extracted.

The collection devices Tesla shows can work with many different forms of energy, not just radiant electricity, but I think the principal is this. The waves pass over the collector causing an electrical oscillation in the capacitor, this oscillation is then the source of electrical power for the tank circuit with the magnetism of the coil doing the work.

This can be modified with a diode so that the energy is built up in the capacitor to a higher level before use.

The small devices most of us have built with this patent produce tiny amounts of electricity, so small as to be mostly unpractical to use; however if one of these devices was placed close to something that is disturbing the aether the output would go up dramatically.

If the plate was replaced with a coil, we no longer have to be as close to the source or in direct line of sight but now we are moving onto another of Tesla's patents.

So to sum up, if you are close to something that is disturbing the environment, such as power transmission lines, you could collect a usable amount of energy using these patents for free, if not it will be a small return.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
First you have to extract the radiant from the environment, its like sitting in a swimming pool and trying to get the water to do something.
This is why the collector needs to be negatively charged.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
This can be modified with a diode so that the energy is built up in the capacitor to a higher level before use.
Where would the diode go and what sort of specification capacitor/s and diode do you think would suit the circuit?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
The small devices most of us have built with this patent produce tiny amounts of electricity, so small as to be mostly unpractical to use; however if one of these devices was placed close to something that is disturbing the aether the output would go up dramatically.
Is there a thread on any of these small devices? It would be interesting to know whether they were negatively charged, their surface area and elevation.

I know that the surface area of the collector and its height are very important.

An interesting notion is that the monolith inside a catalytic converter has a surface area of approx 500,000 square meters.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
If the plate was replaced with a coil, we no longer have to be as close to the source or in direct line of sight but now we are moving onto another of Tesla's patents.
There is a lot of surface area on a coil, much more than a plate of the same size.

Which patent do you refer to?

Cheers
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:35 PM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
This is why the collector needs to be negatively charged.
I don't know that it does.

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Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
Where would the diode go and what sort of specification capacitor/s and diode do you think would suit the circuit?
In series with the collector plate and almost any diode will do if your not close to a source of energy. The size of the capacitor would determine how much energy would be stored and how long it takes to charge. Outputs from this system is very small unless you have a huge collector

Quote:
Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
Is there a thread on any of these small devices? It would be interesting to know whether they were negatively charged, their surface area and elevation.

I know that the surface area of the collector and its height are very important.
There are many you will just have to search the forum till you find them but here are a few
Avramenko's plug - Single wire power
Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video
imotep relay circuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
An interesting notion is that the monolith inside a catalytic converter has a surface area of approx 500,000 square meters.

There is a lot of surface area on a coil, much more than a plate of the same size.

Which patent do you refer to?

Cheers
All Tesla's patents with reference to transmitting and receiving energy but specifically without wires, The magnifying transmitter is the most talked about.

Remember Inventors never put everything in their patents.

You may find these simple circuits of interest while you learn the principals, but don't expect too much Radiant Energy Aerial Capture (REAC)

If you wish to get more out, Imhoteps radiant oscillator lite maybe your next step. http://d1190995.domaincentral.com.au...html:thumbsup:
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:14 PM
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I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics

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I don't know that it does.
FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT:
Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube


Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
In series with the collector plate and almost any diode will do if your not close to a source of energy.
So does the diode prevent the oscillaltions of the capacitor travelling upwards and channel the energy down toward earth at a higher voltage?


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The size of the capacitor would determine how much energy would be stored and how long it takes to charge. Outputs from this system is very small unless you have a huge collector
So would the effect of having a TDK High Voltage Ceramic Strontium Titanate Doorknob Capacitor (High Current / Quick discharge) 40KV, 2000 pF attract a large amount of energy to flow through the circuit and energise the load, then just self resonate because I believe it will 100% until it is proved wrong.


Thanks for the links
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:06 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics



FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT:
Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube




So does the diode prevent the oscillaltions of the capacitor travelling upwards and channel the energy down toward earth at a higher voltage?




So would the effect of having a TDK High Voltage Ceramic Strontium Titanate Doorknob Capacitor (High Current / Quick discharge) 40KV, 2000 pF attract a large amount of energy to flow through the circuit and energise the load, then just self resonate because I believe it will 100% until it is proved wrong.


Thanks for the links
Your first point is very important, Nice discovery. Extrapolating the principal, if you made a Bedini circuit negatively charged the input from the environment would increase as the dipole created in the circuit would have a greater potential and so would every device using this principal. Excellent

Pretty much but it will have the effect of creating a dipole allowing more in as your discovery above shows.

With a tank circuit it will oscillate for a while until the energy dissipates but as soon as you draw power from it at a faster rate than it can be replaced it all stops.

Its the dipole that allows the energy in on the negative end by attracting positive radiant, normal circuits only have a momentary dipole, this precharging should allow the positive radiant in as a flow . until the negative charge dissipates. To maintain the precharge as long as possible our circuit must not be earthed. Hmmmmm I need to think about this some more
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:27 PM
nueview nueview is offline
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you might want to look up XEROX copy machine patents this applies to the information you are gathering.

in a xerox copier the paper is charged and then it or the platen is exposed to ultraviolet light and where it is dark it does not remove the charge so that the toner is attracted to the charged areas to form the copy.

i have put intense ultraviolet lights in the presence of electrostatic machines and it does effect there operation even more than humidity.

i have often wondered if this could be used to make it rain as most moisture is suspended in clouds by charge action.
it was just a thought.
Martin
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
Your first point is very important, Nice discovery. Extrapolating the principal, if you made a Bedini circuit negatively charged the input from the environment would increase as the dipole created in the circuit would have a greater potential and so would every device using this principal. Excellent
I don't know much about the Bedini circuit apart from it charges batteries, but yeah crucial information.

I have been trying to find out how to negatively charge a plate and trying to find info about an electrophorus.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
Pretty much but it will have the effect of creating a dipole allowing more in as your discovery above shows.
So putting a diode at the bottom of the circuit too will help also?



Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
With a tank circuit it will oscillate for a while until the energy dissipates but as soon as you draw power from it at a faster rate than it can be replaced it all stops.
I believe the spark gap in the relay increases the voltage and draws in radiant energy and at the same time will increase the frequency to point of resonance, which will draw in loads more.

I also believe a vacuum tube might work very well instead of the relay too. As would solid state switching.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
Its the dipole that allows the energy in on the negative end by attracting positive radiant, normal circuits only have a momentary dipole, this precharging should allow the positive radiant in as a flow . until the negative charge dissipates. To maintain the precharge as long as possible our circuit must not be earthed. Hmmmmm I need to think about this some more
Aren't both ends negative and radiant energy is entering both?



Quote:
Originally Posted by nueview View Post
you might want to look up XEROX copy machine patents this applies to the information you are gathering.

in a xerox copier the paper is charged and then it or the platen is exposed to ultraviolet light and where it is dark it does not remove the charge so that the toner is attracted to the charged areas to form the copy.

i have put intense ultraviolet lights in the presence of electrostatic machines and it does effect there operation even more than humidity.

i have often wondered if this could be used to make it rain as most moisture is suspended in clouds by charge action.
it was just a thought.
Martin
Great idea, there must be a best way to charge the plates. Tesla said insulated plates with a dielectric work best in the patent.


Apparently Wilhelm Reich mades clouds dissapear or appear by using a "cloud buster". Later someone else developed a "storm buster".

Cloudbusters and DOR Busters

SO, YOU WANT TO BUILD A CLOUDBUSTER?

Cheers
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics



FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT:
Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube


Thanks for the links
the book mentioned can be found here :

On the Discharge of Electricity Produced by the Rontgen Rays, and the Effects Produced by These Rays on Dielectrics through Which They Pass (January 1, 1895)

On the Discharge of Electricity Produced by the Rontgen Rays, and the Effects Produced by These Rays on Dielectrics through Which They Pass : Thomson, J. : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:40 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Quote:
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I don't know much about the Bedini circuit apart from it charges batteries, but yeah crucial information.

I have been trying to find out how to negatively charge a plate and trying to find info about an electrophorus.

So putting a diode at the bottom of the circuit too will help also?

I believe the spark gap in the relay increases the voltage and draws in radiant energy and at the same time will increase the frequency to point of resonance, which will draw in loads more.

I also believe a vacuum tube might work very well instead of the relay too. As would solid state switching.

Aren't both ends negative and radiant energy is entering both?

Great idea, there must be a best way to charge the plates. Tesla said insulated plates with a dielectric work best in the patent.

Apparently Wilhelm Reich mades clouds dissapear or appear by using a "cloud buster". Later someone else developed a "storm buster".

Cloudbusters and DOR Busters

SO, YOU WANT TO BUILD A CLOUDBUSTER?

Cheers
From what I understand, fake nylon fur will charge a plate quite effectively when rubbed. Electrophorus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Electrophorus

Only one diode is needed in those circuits.

The ends are opposite in charge and it is theorizes that negative radiant enters the positive end. Experiments seem to confirm this and this "negative" energy has different properties causing bigger overunity effects, cooling etc. My experiments with this showed an increase in capacity of a battery before the battery acid crystalized

Some say that orgone is radiant, I don't know as and cant help you with that.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:56 AM
nueview nueview is offline
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ENERGY EVERYWHERE !! - YouTube

i hope you watch this because it is a very unusual aspect of energy transfer.
i have seen it myself and it can be very powerful when it occurs it can charge batteries very fast and cool them in the process.
Martin
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:37 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Radiant Energy

I have been experimenting with Tesla's radiant energy for a while and have some very efficient powerful prototypes...some with ground only, some antenna only, and some with both. The configuration of the circuit is the most crucial part! 500v can be established from a mere 4" 28-guage wire and no ground upto about 1.2 amps continuously!

** I will bookmark this forum (done...)...and take some photos/videos to share how such can be accomplished.

charging of the plate is not all that necessary as it works by extracting radiant "energy" (static, ionized air, and some of the light spectrum) [via antenna] or if when using a ground, the negative potential becomes much greater than at the antenna (earth is dense - potential) and the antenna 'channels' the energy through the system to "complete the dipole."


A diode at the antenna is used as a rectifier (unconventionally) to convert the energy into an electrical charge. An insulated wire works better than an uninsulated, and a one-way insulated sheet of metal (ie aluminum foil glued to cardboard) works even better (more surface area to collect). Although when using a plate, the best connection is at a point where the edges of the plate are closest to equidistance from the antenna connection point (center of the plate).


**Charging of the antenna is really not necessary as insulated wire generally already carries a charge (no matter how hard manufacturers try to counter this)...but if charge is essential to you, create an electret, and connect the positive side to the antenna...thus leaving the negative side free to potentially draw from the 'aetheric' (ionospheric) positive charge.


I will post schematics, pictures, and videos tomorrow (have to throw some together).

If you can grasp the concepts and how to increase efficiency, you have 2 out of 3 secrets (nature of static/ionization & harnessing/condensing into current) revealed to recreating a "testatika machine" (I have and am now in reproduction of an even more efficient model with all machined parts...and it does work!)

Glad to lend a hand in spreading knowledge..will return tomorrow.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:12 PM
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Eagerly awaiting your infomation

Really glad I started the thread
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:29 PM
IczerTesla IczerTesla is offline
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Hello All.
I have been trying to re-create this invention for a while..
Ive tried to tape foil to cardboard pieces ( like a plate type) Ive tried sawing the bottom off a hollow plastic horse kick ball thing.. round sphere shape with flat panels making up the roundness of the complete ball.. (kinda like a really scaled down Wardenclyffe tower dome)
and now Im using a piece of aluminum plate I borrowed from work which I polished to a mirror like sheen.

My biggest problem is the wiring and electrical know-how.. I have a basic idea of how this concept works.. But I always run into a dead-end when it comes to having it actually work.. plus I have kind of a lot of power lines coming through my yard.. I wouldnt want to count the resonance from the lines as my "radiant energy"

My first attempt I tried to make a Leyden jar as my condenser,capacitor.. but I couldnt even get that to produce a spark.

I was pretty much wondering if anyone would like to offer me some pointer or tips for this device? for instance.. the patent states that the collecting plate should be insulated.. does that mean the whole plate? 1-side? and insulated with what? Im about to use saran-wrap for the "collecting" side of the plate and cardboard as the backing. Anyhow.. any tips either in a PM or on a thread would be very much apprieciated!! thank you all and sorry for the rant.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:36 PM
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How to build your own salt water condensors:

TheKultus's Channel - YouTube
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:49 PM
IczerTesla IczerTesla is offline
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thank you for the link.. they have some good informative videos
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:40 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Exclamation On Configuration...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haan View Post
Hi mcombatti,
and welcome to the discussion.

please elaborate on the "configuration" and how it is "crucial".

__________________________________________________ ______________
Static electricity includes positive, negative charges, and ionized air (ionization occurs due to sunlight (uv/infrared), weather, seismic activity, solar activity (flares), wind, particles in the air (clouds included)...the entire world is a vast ocean of charges

Configuration
Antenna - rectification of charges (use a full bridge rectifier) -use of a single diode to channel charges is stupid in the fact that if you receive 1000 positive charges and 500 negative..you're charge is now only 500 positives because the dipole has been established, and energy "wasted" an AC rectifier boosts potential. as with the above numbers, the remaining 500 negative can be drawn via the ground (in reality the circuit will "channel" energy necessary out of 'thin air' with or without the ground.

large equipment like car ignition coils and spark plugs waste all the energy before it's been established. (stay with small lossless parts!, the current is only established using pulses, and the HV potential is still too low to approach small parts breakdown point)

MOST IMPORTANTLY - if you live BELOW 2000'...near sea level.... your charge potential is going to be relatively low NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO... I believe the exact number is 1750' (will retrieve reference later)...at which ionization in the air is at it's critical tapping point..

****For the one living near power lines... High Voltage (HV) or High Frequency (HF) can increase ionization in the surrounding air...the point of collecting radiant energy includes these stray HV power lines loss as well (ionized air)... radio waves... seismic waves... pretty much all resonant frequencies trapped in the earths lower layer of air (as they cause the "draw down" from ionization... If you have a plasma ball running in the room...a van de graff, wilmhurst or any 'static/ionizing' devices near (within 20') a radiant collector...you'll notice HUGE amounts of power being collected.

basically... the best way to draw radiant energy is to separate the dipole (+/-) then increase potential on one side of the scale and keep this potential from being "corrected"/balanced... Think of it as a form of osmosis... with a duality struggling to always achieve balance...

Working on the materials to post right now :-) has been a busy day with family from the north. Don't lose faith I'll post them soon (hopefully soon if family stops bugging me :-D)
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:46 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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A quick post

Here's the circuit for anyone, whether u live within the radiant tapping zone.. It will work... This circuit uses an alpha particle emitter to initiate a forced bias potential on the ground of the circuit (negative resistor ;-))... Pumping/forcing the antenna to draw radiant energy to itself.. Videos and other circuits after when I get the time.. Just couldn't leave you all hanging without something... Here's just something to reproduce and start exploring with a "working" model that can fit in the palm of your hand with no lengthy antennas or grounds.. And actually get more than a meager volt or two...

I present the Portable Radiant Energy Receiver circuit #5 created by myself :-)
Start building...

***note the 100-470 uF caps will be the voltage stoppers.. Use 35v.. You'll get 35 volts.. Use 100.. You'll get 100.. A 555 is not necessary.. But when used causes the "pump" to increase voltage with a resistor on the + side... Faster switching.. More current...
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Old 11-13-2011, 11:13 PM
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@mcombatti - thanks, that looks very interesting!

Must caps be electrolytic? You don't show polarity in your circuit.
And must they be HV, as you said above, if you use 35v, you can only get 35v.... will they really work, or was it an example?

Is it a combination of methods, will any one work, or must they all be used together?

And can one simply connect the output circuit to the + and - of your circuit?

Sorry if the questions are silly, I'm not understanding your circuit completely yet, but hope to soon as it looks really promising!

I have already tried simple antenna circuits before, but much much simpler (single diode and cap) etc, and uninsulated antenna, which did not work.

Last edited by StweenyA : 11-13-2011 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:33 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Reply ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by StweenyA View Post
@mcombatti - thanks, that looks very interesting!

Must caps be electrolytic? You don't show polarity in your circuit.
And must they be HV, as you said above, if you use 35v, you can only get 35v.... will they really work, or was it an example?

**The two antenna caps must be ceramic/mylar/polystrene (spelling?)... 2 250 475k work great :-) (usually green)
**the two ground caps work best as electrolytic or high performance condensers (leyden jars would work)
**where the output voltages are...the two caps are in series (right diode connected to positive lead of cap... that cap's negative lead connected to the positive of the left ground cap where the ground is connected...the left cap's negative is connected to the negative end of the negative output and negative end of the left diode)and the gound connected at the center of the two lower caps which is also attached between the two horizontal diodes (standard voltage doubler configuration)
ALTHOUGH...oddly with radiant energy, the voltage DOES NOT double (it's being used to RECTIFY the incoming charges rather than double), the output voltage is the two ground cap voltages divided by 2... so if you use two 50v electrolytic caps... the voltage will be 50 on the output. two 100's will be 100 volts
**you may use lower value capacitors, depending on the power output you are looking to achieve.
** The rectification is used because we are looking at the + & - charges as AC ...even though it may be +-+-+- or ++++-- or any combination as the charges are "incoming"...so rather than allowing one + and one - to kill the dipole...we rectify them and send them to the output terminals for a load.

Is it a combination of methods, will any one work, or must they all be used together?

**In the circuit I present, it will work regardless of elevation since it is forcing a biased charge potential (negative resistor) using the ground and an alpha emitter. The test tube is setup just like a leyden jar except it is "charging" internally (The alpha emissions hit the inner foil causing charge to rise), forcing an opposite charge to occur on the outside layer which the insulated antenna is coiled around...and draws these two dipoles into the circuit and they are forced through a load to reach equilibrium (+ & - = neutral).
This method of forcing a biased potential is equivalent to packing a few hundred feet of antenna into a small test tube...thus reducing the need for a long/high antenna and removes the need for a ground since it is established within the tube...making it portable :-)


And can one simply connect the output circuit to the + and - of your circuit?
**Not sure if I'm interpreting this correctly, but a load may be attached at the + and - output terminals of the circuit...without a 555 oscillating (flip/flop) the output, it will power merely a led...oscillation keeps the charge pump working and creates current..no oscillation(on/off flip flop) will rapidly deplete the output caps... when the caps are empty, and no load is connected, they instantly charge back up... from which they can be discharged again...OSCILLATION is essential since when a load (ie small dc motor) is connected, the dipole is killed when the circuit is on...so a minute switch off instantly recharges the caps, and the switch back on send the charge through the load neutralizing the dipole again :-).... a fast oscillation will seem as if the dc is constant :-) Hopefully you can understand this. even if not oscillating, if the voltage established is too high...and you decide to power a mere led...it will blow the led if the voltage is too high for the LED :-)


Sorry if the questions are silly, I'm not understanding your circuit completely yet, but hope to soon as it looks really promising!

I really advise everyone acquaint themselves with the Testatica Machine (sometimes spelled Testatika). If you can understand how this circuit works by pumping charge and using the oscillation to increase potential (I believe tesla did something called the hair pin circuit or disruptive spark gap)... you can use this simple circuit and a van de graff/ wilmhurst machine to recreate your own testatika.

Another example is making a few of these circuit wired in series and exciting with a mere plasma ball... you'll soon realize that the output wattage is greater than the wattage necessary to power the ball :-) I'm re-establishing a website at osblueflame.com with all my works and testatika reproduction (since it was hacked and all information deleted..I have many backups :-)) Some of my works are followups of my grandfather's (passed in 2007) whom was a good friend of the late tesla.. I have a few documents my grandfather hoarded for years..and am now testing the circuitry and concepts.


I have already tried simple antenna circuits before, but much much simpler (single diode and cap) etc, and uninsulated antenna, which did not work.
if at first you dont succeed, try it again a different way.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:00 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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By the way...

A 1N4001 diode or germanium 1N60 or 1N34 have yielded the best results (1N60 in particular ;-)) the lower the voltage drop the better.. Have not tried shottskys
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:02 AM
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StweenyA StweenyA is offline
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@mcombatti, thanks very much for your reply

Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole".
I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment...

Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:11 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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About alpha emitters

Quote:
Originally Posted by StweenyA View Post
@mcombatti, thanks very much for your reply

Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole".
I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment...

Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now

Alpha emitters generate low radiation.. The tube will stop it and skin can stop the alpha emissions as well.. DO NOT INJEST AN ALPHA EMITTER. americium can be obtained by getting a cheap smoke detector from a yard sale.. And taking the small bead out of it :-) a little bit goes a long way.. If u have a Geiger counter, you can test other materials... Some granites I've used emit a lot of alpha particles.. Betas and higher can be used.. But then there becomes radiation dangers.. The more surface area of the emitter increases the charge pump activation as well... But too much will blow the circuit :-)
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:13 AM
citfta citfta is offline
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hi mcombatti,

You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us.

Carroll

Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.

Last edited by citfta : 11-14-2011 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:03 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Americium

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Originally Posted by citfta View Post
hi mcombatti,

You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us.

Carroll

Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.
Yes the small bit of americium works well.. Its inside the black cylindrical unit.. Usually marked radioactive.. Take the top off the cylinder and/or unsolder it and push it out with a phillips screwdriver. If u find granite.. The black crystalline chunks (uraninite) works well also and is handlable.. But gives off alpha and beta particles.. So as well with this (especially if chipping to break) DO NOT INJEST :-)
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:43 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Wall plug unit

Since I don't have time for the video of taking apart the circuit above for tonight, putting it together and demonstrating.. I'll leave you all with a wall plug unit I designed. The black side banana plug is for a ground wire if brought let's say camping :-) and the red banana is the antenna side... When plugged into a wall socket, the ground is the ground of the plug, and the house wiring becomes a very large antenna :-) (brick seems to shield some energy)... The cover (not shown) has a female outlet plugin... This configuration although using grid associated wires.. Does not use inductance or feedback from the grid... Rather uses the house and surrounding power lines as a vast antenna :-)

Oh ya.. The front bananas are for multimiter test leads :-) red +, black -
More to come.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:53 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Insulated plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by IczerTesla View Post
Hello All.
I have been trying to re-create this invention for a while..
Ive tried to tape foil to cardboard pieces ( like a plate type) Ive tried sawing the bottom off a hollow plastic horse kick ball thing.. round sphere shape with flat panels making up the roundness of the complete ball.. (kinda like a really scaled down Wardenclyffe tower dome)
and now Im using a piece of aluminum plate I borrowed from work which I polished to a mirror like sheen.

My biggest problem is the wiring and electrical know-how.. I have a basic idea of how this concept works.. But I always run into a dead-end when it comes to having it actually work.. plus I have kind of a lot of power lines coming through my yard.. I wouldnt want to count the resonance from the lines as my "radiant energy"

My first attempt I tried to make a Leyden jar as my condenser,capacitor.. but I couldnt even get that to produce a spark.

I was pretty much wondering if anyone would like to offer me some pointer or tips for this device? for instance.. the patent states that the collecting plate should be insulated.. does that mean the whole plate? 1-side? and insulated with what? Im about to use saran-wrap for the "collecting" side of the plate and cardboard as the backing. Anyhow.. any tips either in a PM or on a thread would be very much apprieciated!! thank you all and sorry for the rant.
Glue aluminum foil to cardboard, polished or smooth surface is really not important... It's just to prevent neutralizing charges from coming together from each side of the plate (killing the dipole) :-) As for sparkage, unless you're above the 1750' above sea level and have a 200' antenna (which in the US requires permits by the FAA over 100'). It simply won't happen, and the actual energy received will be very disappointing :-) the height of the antenna is to establish a wide potential between + charges (the sky) and - charges (the earth)
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:55 PM
citfta citfta is offline
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Hi mcombatti,

Does the Americium need to be electrically connected to the ground or just stuck to it with some glue or something? Or does it need to be insulated from the ground? Looking forward to any other interesting circuits you can share with us.

Thanks,

Carroll
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2011, 02:23 PM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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has anyone sourced the caps?
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:38 PM
citfta citfta is offline
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Hi Dave45,

I already have the caps I plan to use but they should be available almost anywhere. Even Radio Shack should have something that will work. Although for higher voltage ones you would probably need to go to one of the online suppliers like Mouser or Digikey or Jameco. I have some 180 uf 450 volt caps I got from Ebay that I am going to use for the electrolytic caps.

Carroll
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