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  #31  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:07 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citfta View Post
Hi mcombatti,

Does the Americium need to be electrically connected to the ground or just stuck to it with some glue or something? Or does it need to be insulated from the ground? Looking forward to any other interesting circuits you can share with us.

Thanks,

Carroll
In my experiments I've simple uninsulated about a cm or 2 of the ground wire and wrapped it around the americium.. Sort of like a custom jeweler would.. Just to hold it in place.. But if the ground touches the inside foil you'll notice significant voltage drop... Was trying out smartdraw lastnight to draw up all my schematics with each part specs but may just draw them all and post photos :-) For the oscillation.. I've found a very very efficient arrangement of setup without a 555 .. Will draw that up as well.
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  #32  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:22 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Smile Caps

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Originally Posted by Dave45 View Post
has anyone sourced the caps?
Any non polar lossless caps for the antenna an be used.
Polarity of the ground caps is important since the ambient + & - are being converted to direct DC from their radiant sudo-AC state.

In the wall circuit there are
4-1n34
2- 102 ceramic caps
2 100uf electrolytic caps

:-)

In the americium circuit
4 -1N60
4- 104K 100v
2 - 50v 470uf
1 resistor in series on the + output

Parts aren't really essential...Their setup is... It works on the principle of forming negative resistance on one side of the circuit to force radiant energy through the system and unified as DC by an "electromagnetic osmosis" process. Historically it was once said... Order out of chaos, to divide is to conquer... In energy sense, a 'chaotic system' is used to bring about unity... By separating the duality (dipole), it's energy can be harnessed from the unification process. :-) a universal truth in all things.
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  #33  
Old 11-16-2011, 01:11 AM
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@mcombatti

I currently do not have 2 of any HV ceramic caps.... Will it work at all if they are not HV?
I only have 2x 0.22uF 1.25KV caps, no polarity.

About the diodes... you say 1n4001 produces best results... why? 1n4001 is 50V?.... would any of the other 1n400x diodes work? (Just wondering, I do have 1n4001)

Also, you mentioned your circuit that it would work with either antenna or ground... So is the americium required to make this work, or will it produce any results without it?

Thanks
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  #34  
Old 11-16-2011, 04:45 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Circuit

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Originally Posted by StweenyA View Post
@mcombatti

I currently do not have 2 of any HV ceramic caps.... Will it work at all if they are not HV?
I only have 2x 0.22uF 1.25KV caps, no polarity.
These are fine for the antenna caps :-)


About the diodes... you say 1n4001 produces best results... why? 1n4001 is 50V?.... would any of the other 1n400x diodes work? (Just wondering, I do have 1n4001)
If the diode has similar ratings I image it should function just the same. Germanium and galena diodes will render the best results due to the fact their voltage drop requirement is 0.2-0.3 volts while the 1N400x series has a voltage drop of 0.7-0.9 +/- volts.

Also, you mentioned your circuit that it would work with either antenna or ground... So is the americium required to make this work, or will it produce any results without it?

Americium or any alpha particle emitter will work ground side to force the antenna to draw energy from the immediate environment. Without the emitter, you will need an earth ground, and a very long, high antenna to achieve minuscule results (under 100 volts at very low current). The alpha emitter is simple to force a bias charge on the ground to "make" the antenna draw ambient energy (electrostatic, ionized air, and radio/uv/infrared charged frequency carriers)... Within a circuit antenna and ground that can be enclosed in the palms of your hand (portable). Google alpha emitters and you'll be surprised how many of them are around you in nature and in maybe your driveway :-) I used americium due to it's high energy state and willingness to emit alpha particles.(google ionization chart for periodic table of elements.) pure antenna and ground is as if throwing a handful of sand at the "collection plate) ... Let's say it has double sided tape on it... Some but low amounts will stick.. This is the energy your using to make dc from the circuit. Now let's say we add an alpha emitter... This is like putting an industrial sized vacuum as the collection plate.. Now when you throw the sand at it... It sucks up (absorbs) all the sand.. Notice the comparison and how much more energy can be collected.

Technically no antenna or ground is necessay... So as long as the circuit is with an area of high enough energy states present... Where one is missing, the other will compensate.. Although ideally, by forcing the baised charge on the ground, we are simply recreating the "impossible negative resistor" google negative resistor.. In Essence, a negative resistor can theoretically power a device connected to only one side since the opposite terminal will be forced to draw energy through the device...(induction circuits like electric motors would require an initial handspin to start). This is adding potential and kinetic motion without the electrons present... Which if one exists, the other must manifest (radiant energy) :-)
Thanks

See above for recommenting
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  #35  
Old 11-16-2011, 04:57 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Regarding forum name

Why is ImHotep (middle Egyptian for "by offering" by the way) credited for radiant energy in this forum? Purely Tesla is the father of radiant energy science. Looking at imhoteps circuits, they're straight from Hermann Plausons patents with modern components, and no airballoon to hold the antenna.
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  #36  
Old 11-16-2011, 09:21 PM
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Sorry thats my fault.

I was trying to provoke thoughts for a new circuit to better mankind.

You sir have done so!

Well done!

I was inspired by Imhoteps Labs
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  #37  
Old 11-17-2011, 11:29 PM
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Right I've got an old smoke detector.

On the back it says "CAUTION: Contains radioactive material Americium 241 (0.9 microcurie).

Inside it has a silver cage with the radioactive symbol and the words "RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL 0.9 MICROCURIES AMERICIUM 241 MADE IN CANADA"

How do I handle the americium?

I real want to experiment with your circuit.
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  #38  
Old 11-18-2011, 03:24 PM
citfta citfta is offline
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@ soundiceuk

In posts number 24 and 26 mcombatti tells us how to handle the americium. As long as you don't eat it you are ok to handle it with your bare hands. The radiation will not penetrate your skin.

@ mcombatti

I have built the circuit number 5 you posted and am not getting any results. I used 1n914 diodes as I didn't have any 1n60s. I also used 8 strand litz wire for my coil. It is equivalent to number 36 gauge wire. I was not happy with the way I was getting the wire soldered to the back side of the aluminum foil so I took some thin unetched PC board and slowly removed the backing in the middle of the back side of the board until I got to the copper and soldered my ant lead there.

I am only getting a few millivolts on my caps. I have tried several different output caps and the results are about the same. I have tired 1000 uf @ 50 volts, .5 uf @ 50 volts and 180 uf @ 450 volts. The most voltage I have gotten has been about 350 millivolts. I realize I will get a little more voltage drop using the 1n914 diodes but if this circuit can produce 70 to 90 volts I should still be getting some higher voltage than what I am getting.

I did not have a test tube so I used a large size baby food jar. I glued aluminum foil to the inside and outside of the jar and it is wrapped with about 100 turns of the litz wire. Could the litz wire be my problem? I can rebuild this with some number 23 enameled wire if I need to. The americium came from a new smoke detector I got from Home Depot for $4.45. I couldn't find the old ones I thought I had. If you have any other suggestions please let my know what to try.

Thanks for any help you can give,

Carroll
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  #39  
Old 11-18-2011, 04:05 PM
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Exclamation Warning!

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Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
Right I've got an old smoke detector.

On the back it says "CAUTION: Contains radioactive material Americium 241 (0.9 microcurie).

Inside it has a silver cage with the radioactive symbol and the words "RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL 0.9 MICROCURIES AMERICIUM 241 MADE IN CANADA"

How do I handle the americium?

I real want to experiment with your circuit.
I'm new to this stuff, but I read that you should not breathe it in, or get it in your eyes either. So if that's the case, you should wear goggles and a mask.
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  #40  
Old 11-22-2011, 04:26 AM
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Another example is making a few of these circuit wired in series and exciting with a mere plasma ball... you'll soon realize that the output wattage is greater than the wattage necessary to power the ball :-) I'm re-establishing a website at osblueflame.com with all my works and testatika reproduction (since it was hacked and all information deleted..I have many backups :-)) Some of my works are followups of my grandfather's (passed in 2007) whom was a good friend of the late tesla.. I have a few documents my grandfather hoarded for years..and am now testing the circuitry and concepts.
It's a good idea, even if just for testing theories and prototypes.... Tesla himself spoke about it in his patent (sending charged particles to the plate, from his Roentgen tube)

Serious, he was a good friend? What was his name?
I admittedly missed this part of your post the first time, the quoting style is a bit confusing.
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  #41  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:35 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Still here.. Been busy with thanksgiving holiday

The smaller the ground encapsulator (testtube) the better.. Meaning the closer you can get the inner foil to the ground and americium without touching.. The more the ionization/charge potential will be. Looking for a new multimeter since I fried my main meter with this circuit.. While making the video.. So I think I'll just compose a video and show the extent of the charge by sparking it and look for a lead that an withstand the charge.. Until I get my new meter with builtin oscilloscope (only $299.00) :-) will be interesting to check te waveform and voltage produced by working toward mutual resonance (hopefully will spike the voltage)..

My grandfathers name is Johnathan (John) Combatti for whoever it was that asked (sorry using iPhone to respond n can't type n bcktrack names :-p)

May I ask how the coil has been soldered to the foil? In my circuit, the antenna coil is insulated and coiled around the "leyden jar" setup of the ground encapsulator outer foil... Simply electrical taped to keep it from unraveling.

Great determiners of the charge potential are the thickness of the encapsulator (lookup dielectric absorbsion)(thinner the better) .. I believe my test tube is aproximately 1/2 a mm or thinner) ... Also I have the americium soldered to the tip of the ground... About 2/3 of the way into the "encapsulator" and the inner foil is approximately 1/4 of a cm from the americium all the way around.


If you have a plasma globe... Experiment with it (antenna side) before assembling so you see some of the circuits interesting characteristics... Too close... Renders only a HV static dc output charge(note be careful of arcing from output... Too far leaves a LV pure electric dc output.. And at a certain range between... HV ... Decent current .. Output.

The globe ionizes air just as the americium does.. But is less "toxic" persay due to radiation. You can even coat the plasma globe in aluminum foil..(NOTE YOU WILL BURN YOUSELF IF TOUCHING THE FOIL WHILE OPERATING THE GLOBE..use caution) And leave a small piece for a sparkgap with the antenna side... You'll notice at about 1-1.5mm sparkgap with multimeter on the outputs... You'll achieve higher outputs then the globe is using to create the plasma... Oddly, the more circuits you add does not decrease the output or current.. And each circuit will generate the same output/current... This has been tested upto 5 additional circuits... Distance from the "ionizer" is key...


You may notice the oddity of televisions and IR devices functioning on their own (turning on and off or rc cars trying to drive themselves) when the sparkgap is less than 1mm (but obviously visible)... This I have yet to explain.. But will be sure to include in the video.. An IR detector has been used with no apparent IR spectrum detected... So it remains a little mystery.. Because the devices require IR to turn on and off or operate?!

The circuit even operates within a room containing a tesla coil (forgot to mention this) regardless of elevation with or without amercium.

I advise build the circuit with whatever parts you have and test different methods of excitation.. That is what lead me to utilizing an alpha emitter (research beta voltaic to understand concepts of alpha/beta excitation)

Ionization is a key carrier of radiant energy. It even works with an influence machine ;-)

To who built the circuit and achieved microvolts.. Please send me a message at my email with possible photo of circuit at

Matt@simulanics.com

And I will look to see If I can see what may be causing such low output. That way I can also scavenge the same parts to test the circuit on my side. :-)

Anyone else may message anytime... It's an exciting circuit and I want it to work for everyone who trys it :-)
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  #42  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:45 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Caution

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Originally Posted by StweenyA View Post
I'm new to this stuff, but I read that you should not breathe it in, or get it in your eyes either. So if that's the case, you should wear goggles and a mask.
Always use safety.. Goggles n mask not necessary unless your pulverizing a radioactive substance.. But it is better to be safe then sorry.
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  #43  
Old 11-24-2011, 07:28 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Some photos

I have used an analog meter to show a few photos of a "barebones" construction.

Since I've used up all photo space on here they're at
Index of /radiant

You'll see a new circuit (circuit 6) a little bigger than an American quarter and delivering a constant 50v at 850mA.. Which I stabilized using a cap bank in series terminated by two larger uF capacity ones.. The diode is to prevent the circuit from back feeding and decreasing current (almost like a spark gap to keep the charge pump working)

In the barebones Circuit 5.. You'll see the tube... Ground through it.. And antenna coiled 3.5 turns (more turns.. More volts). In the meter reading you'll notice it's at 4.5v and at an amperage too high for the meter.. (blew
Another fuse).. But proof of concept.. Even without the foil on the encapsulator.. Or the americium.. It still produces a visual charge.. Adding americium only.. Voltage went up to 17.5 volts... Foil on the inside.. None on the out... Voltage upto 33 almost 34 volts... Foil on outside now at the limit of the capacitors 50v limit :-)

One picture shows how arcing can occur and has tarnished the under side of the circuit traversing across the soldering points to reach the ground and - output.


Awaiting my new meter for video But can't keep everyone waiting for visuals.. So pictures work :-) am also in construction of circuit 9 which us a flat encapsulator with a larger ionization surface area (high current output :-))

As for Tony who emailed me. You're welcome and I'm glad you've got it working.. Keep experimenting.

Tony noted that a diode in series with the positive output resistor increases the output voltage and current... After testing, I too confirm this... :-)

Theoretically the voltage should drop due to the voltage drop across the diode and resistor.. Generally electricity over a resistor downs the voltage and increases the current.. Not both... Anyone know of anything like this happening elsewhere in electronics?
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  #44  
Old 11-25-2011, 03:15 PM
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@mcombatti, thanks very much for those photo's and all!

I am going to get my hands dirty this weekend

I have been thinking... You say you use the alpha emitters to create a bias.... Would it not be possible to use something like a small solar cell to do the same thing? Would it have the same effect? How would one connect it up?
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  #45  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:23 PM
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Nice work mcombatti I always thought something along this line could be done but didn't have the details that make it workable like you have provided. I've even got some old clock dials with the radium paint. I am guessing that would work too but will require a bit more care in handling.
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  #46  
Old 11-26-2011, 01:39 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Radon salt

You can buy radon salt pretty cheap :-) that is what you'll find in the clock dials.. Which is what makes the europium phosphor :-)

Unitednuclear.com also has some nice radiation sources :-)

***in my new circuit 11.. The encapsulator is enclosed in a plastic globe.. So the encapsulator goes up the center of a "light bulb" structure.. It's actually a round holiday coke bottle.. Have noticed an extreme increase in electrical potential :-) Will post photos.. Have noticed after sparking the gap it exhibits a reverse bias of the capacitors of about a 1/3 the original charge.. Before climbing back to the positive correct polarity of the caps :-) normally a capacitor retains a forward bias and because of dielectric absorption retains correct polarity at a 'self charging' percentage of the original voltage.. Am experimenting with this further.
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  #47  
Old 11-26-2011, 09:17 AM
LetsReplicate LetsReplicate is offline
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I'm still trying to get this thing to work under it's own ionization, how long is it supposed to take to ionize the air in the tube? I currently have an aluminum wire holding the Americium 241 and I'm wondering if there needs to be copper inside the tube for it to work as well. I'm 3400ft above sea level, so height shouldn't be the problem.

So far I've made 1 interesting discovery: the idea came from a warning on the smoke detector package not to put it within 5 ft of a fluorescent light bulb. Forget needing a Tesla coil or plasma globe: just get a compact fluorescent! When I tested it by putting it near my desk lamp the voltage began skyrocketing. It is still not charging fast to light an LED for more than a flash.

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  #48  
Old 11-26-2011, 06:56 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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I'm still trying to get this thing to work under it's own ionization, how long is it supposed to take to ionize the air in the tube? I currently have an aluminum wire holding the Americium 241 and I'm wondering if there needs to be copper inside the tube for it to work as well. I'm 3400ft above sea level, so height shouldn't be the problem.

So far I've made 1 interesting discovery: the idea came from a warning on the smoke detector package not to put it within 5 ft of a fluorescent light bulb. Forget needing a Tesla coil or plasma globe: just get a compact fluorescent! When I tested it by putting it near my desk lamp the voltage began skyrocketing. It is still not charging fast to light an LED for more than a flash.

Yes... Any high frequency (cfl, tesla coil, lightning) will cause ionization to increase.. As well as vlf and lf... I noted that yesterday during the caps polarity reversal, earth was being bombarded by protons from a solar eruption... Have not been able to reproduce the effect with the same extent of charge (only .5v) with no alpha emitter.. The additional enclosure around the encapsulator is definitely adding some interesting effects.. Am trying to excite the encapsulator coil (still tuning) using a ferromagnetic resonance (108 Hz) .. Working on a new flip flop "eruptive discharge) circuit to increase potential without the small dampening effect (when ions don't clear the spark gap)..dissimilar electrodes seems to be working well at the moment.


***Try a cfl that's on a dimmer switch and get the light pulsing... It'll add a nice increase to the electrical yield of the circuit when excited near the flickering CFL ;-) And the cfl will consume less energy (moreso than the cfl in regular solid state :-))

What parts are you using also? Different components react slightly different. The galena and germanium diodes excite more readily than silicons :-)
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  #49  
Old 11-26-2011, 07:03 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Led

Don't forget that you can obtain high voltages at low currents without an on/off pulsing of the dc... Calculate the initial voltage and current and add a resistor to the led in series that will bring the current to the LED rating :-) without a resistor, you'll either blow the LED or not have enough current to light it.. Since it's high frequency voltage, the voltage an pass through the led fairly high without destroying it... It's the current you're interested in increasing.. That's what will light the led...

Interesting proof of concept..
Use joule theif and AA battery to power a CFL...Excite the circuit..
Notice more power output from circuit than required to light the CFL :-) there's a million ways to invoke ionization.. All of them will work :-)
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:55 PM
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I've been experimenting with high voltages and many different bulbs.

Whilst doing so I noticed that I could hold the terminals of the bulbs whilst the circuit is running with no shock felt.

Every other bulb, led, cfl, fluro, incandescant, high pressure sodium, metal halide I have been able to touch both terminals live and felt nothing at all.

However, today I decided to have a go at a xenon flash bulb from a disposable camera.

I copped a right pisser off the bulb, meaning its either amplifying the current or the voltage.

Try using one for a spark gap and see what happens.

The other interesting effect is the white lightning inside the bulb.

Made me wonder whether lightning takes its route to earth through xenon. Which would explain why it is white light.
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:43 PM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Lightning and further experimentation

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Originally Posted by soundiceuk View Post
I've been experimenting with high voltages and many different bulbs.

Whilst doing so I noticed that I could hold the terminals of the bulbs whilst the circuit is running with no shock felt.

Every other bulb, led, cfl, fluro, incandescant, high pressure sodium, metal halide I have been able to touch both terminals live and felt nothing at all.

However, today I decided to have a go at a xenon flash bulb from a disposable camera.

I copped a right pisser off the bulb, meaning its either amplifying the current or the voltage.



Try using one for a spark gap and see what happens.

The other interesting effect is the white lightning inside the bulb.

Made me wonder whether lightning takes its route to earth through xenon. Which would explain why it is white light.
Lightning travels from the ground upward. That's why saint elm's fire forms (coronal discharge)... We see the light traveling down the stream of ions as the air ionizes. HF.. HV through any of the inert gasses does increase the current/voltage... Radiant energy prefers high resistance to travel 'over' the gas.. Rather than through it :-) more resistance.. Greater yield of wattage.. I've held back a few key components to see if anyone else notices through experimentation.. Kudos to you for noticing :-) im glad more and more are starting to tap into the 'sea of energy'... I could reveal all my findings, but then some findings I may have missed might go unnoticed by replicating what has already been achieved. ;-) I'm surprised no one has tried the circuit with a wimshurst machine yet with two circuit attached to each side of the leydens... Even with a dc motor attached.. To spin the disks.. You may be surprised at a "perpetual motion" effect...(doesn't violate thermodynamics.. Drawn energy from the surrounding environment)... Modifying a bedini circuit with my circuits 5-9 (one of them) yields the same... I've tried writing to John Bedini to show this to him, but have yet to heat back (almost a month)... To those who are emailing me their findings.. Be sure to post them here for everyone else.

Another interesting experiment is to vacuum seal the encapsulator with lithium metal rod in place of the americium ;-) (do not handle lithium with bare or moist hands!!!)... AA Batteries have quite a bit of lithium metal ;-)
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:23 AM
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Working on a new flip flop "eruptive discharge) circuit to increase potential without the small dampening effect (when ions don't clear the spark gap)..dissimilar electrodes seems to be working well at the moment.

What parts are you using also? Different components react slightly different. The galena and germanium diodes excite more readily than silicons :-)
You might want to try an SCR or Triac: they are solid state spark gaps that don't spark.

NTE110A Germanium RF diodes, 0.1uF Mylar 400v capacitors on the input. I was using 2 sets of two 1000uF, 50v capacitors, in series to get 500uF each but picked up some 470uF 50v ones today. I know the circuit is built properly as I've used this kind of circuit before and it is working reasonably well when driven by a CFL (the lamp is not going to like having a dimmer added to it, but it's a cheap $5 one anyway) and unloaded, it's defiantly the ion tube causing the problem. Is the coil supposed to go clockwise, counter-clockwise, or does it matter? (assuming the cork is down and we're looking at the glass bottom of the tube from above)

My encapsulators are:


I rolled aluminum foil up so it expands inside, then stuffed cotton balls in to stick it to the walls. I'm using superglue to hold the foil on the outside, and to hold the coil. I got a bunch more of the jars today (5 more packages): if I make enough assorted coils I'm bound to hit a working one.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:42 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Coil winding

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You might want to try an SCR or Triac: they are solid state spark gaps that don't spark.

NTE110A Germanium RF diodes, 0.1uF Mylar 400v capacitors on the input. I was using 2 sets of two 1000uF, 50v capacitors, in series to get 500uF each but picked up some 470uF 50v ones today. I know the circuit is built properly as I've used this kind of circuit before and it is working reasonably well when driven by a CFL (the lamp is not going to like having a dimmer added to it, but it's a cheap $5 one anyway) and unloaded, it's defiantly the ion tube causing the problem. Is the coil supposed to go clockwise, counter-clockwise, or does it matter? (assuming the cork is down and we're looking at the glass bottom of the tube from above)

My encapsulators are:


I rolled aluminum foil up so it expands inside, then stuffed cotton balls in to stick it to the walls. I'm using superglue to hold the foil on the outside, and to hold the coil. I got a bunch more of the jars today (5 more packages): if I make enough assorted coils I'm bound to hit a working one.

My most recent coil has a lead at the top (bottom of your bottle) and is wound around starting at the top of the foil (electrical taped)..of the Leyden style encapsulator.. Counter clockwise.... Approximately 300 turns (to bottom of foil... Top of your bottle) and taped again...burn the laquer off the wire on the cork side and connect to antenna terminal of te circuit... If the jar (encapsulator) is enclosed inside another 'globe' you can drill a hole and run the (bottom side of jar...actually top of encapsulator) antenna lead from the coil through the top.. And add additional length antenna and a plate if needed.... I will post my latest model image first thing in the morning.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mcombatti View Post
My most recent coil has a lead at the top (bottom of your bottle) and is wound around starting at the top of the foil (electrical taped)..of the Leyden style encapsulator.. Counter clockwise.... Approximately 300 turns (to bottom of foil... Top of your bottle) and taped again...burn the laquer off the wire on the cork side and connect to antenna terminal of te circuit... If the jar (encapsulator) is enclosed inside another 'globe' you can drill a hole and run the (bottom side of jar...actually top of encapsulator) antenna lead from the coil through the top.. And add additional length antenna and a plate if needed.... I will post my latest model image first thing in the morning.
Wait, this thing takes 300+ turns of magnet wire?!?!? Why did the only image you show of the one you made only have 3 turns of 18 gauge and you claim it gave you 34v @ greater than 1 watt? That lead me to believe that we were looking to balance inductance with capacitance trying to hit a high resonant frequency instead of "as much inductance as it will hold" (which would have been my first thought had there not been a misleading picture).

...It's a good thing I picked up magnet wire on a whim today or I'd be quite angry right now. Even still, had I known it would take that much inductance, I'd have gotten more wire so I could make it bifilar to save space as it more than doubles the inductance per turn and halves the winding time.

Please don't withhold any more information, it defeats the purpose of this if you do. People need to be able to get the circuit working in the way you claim it works or they will start to think it's just another of those scams... To be frank, the bulk of your circuit minus the negative resistor are a very common scam known as the "Tesla secret circuit", which I why I already had all the parts I needed to build it: I was debunking it. The common theme with the "Tesla secret circuit" is to misrepresent how much power comes out of it by several orders of magnitude (the radiant cell phone charger is the most common scam). I'll experiment with the device when I get it working, I'll also help other people get theirs working while giving YOU credit, I shouldn't need to reinvent YOUR wheel to prove you right. It's not a replication if I have to reinvent the damn thing... Not a single person besides you has posed in this thread that they have a working one yet, until they do your claim is somewhat suspect (if someone does have a working one please say so, and post a picture of a working, self-running tube as that is the ONLY part of this circuit that I need to know about). I want you to be right, and I want this circuit to work, but I have to say that I'm not holding out high hopes right now because you've frustrated me.

I apologize if this sounds antagonizing, but this is about the fourth major inconsistency I've noticed in your instructions. If you're really trying to share real information about energy generation to help people then there is nothing to by gained be hiding anything.

I'd love a model of if, or even a crude drawing would be good as long as it actually has the information needed to build one. A picture of a working, finished tube would also be EXTREMELY helpful as people will know about what it is supposed to look like. Once I get it working, I'll be willing to do a complete soup-to-nuts instructions write-up for you, including layouts for circuit boards, pictures, videos, 3d computer models, and give a place for people to post replications of it while talking about how well it works (which is what you wanted anyway) because that is my job: to prove you right and help you spread the free energy. So please: help me help you.

In order to make yours self-run, did you need to put more than one curie of Americium as the emitter? You mention it, but you weren't specific. How many did you put in before it blew the circuit, and which part did it blow?

Also: you hint that your circuit includes a photo-tube as a spark gap: is that located on a node connected to the negative resistor?

Edit: I got the new jar wound, it's working a little better. I found out that the jars will give even higher voltage than with just a CFL if it is sitting on Fluorite while the CFL is shinning on it. I'm getting reasonable voltage now, but not much current. The LED is very dim, but it stays lit now. I'll get more wire and wind a high-inductance coil tomorrow to see if I hit my capacitor max voltage naturally. I'm willing to call this proof of concept, so I'd like to apologize for the criticism earlier in this message.
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Last edited by LetsReplicate; 11-27-2011 at 11:07 AM. Reason: addition.
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  #55  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:23 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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All the Mystery Dissolved


To dissolve all mystery, and self discovery...I have laid out the circuit piece by piece, with components and reasoning behind "WHY" it all works. I have also taken the time to do the frequency tuning for you :-)...you can work the coils out...

Following is a pretty in-depth "instructional" to replicate the full High Power (wattage) circuit...



**I'm glad you see that this is not a "scam" circuit... :-) I too am familiar with the scam "Cell phone charger"... It's actually patented as the APM (Ambient Power Module)...although lacks any sort of tuning... Hermann Plauson powered most of Germany using the same circuit (tuned!) for the world fair... I have combined the works of Tesla, Murray, and Plauson...and removed the mystery behind the circuits for you...I hope there are still some discoveries to find.... (thus my experimental circuit 11) :-)

I have left no more secrets... Use caution with High Voltages! (low ones too)
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  #56  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:26 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Ionization Material

1 Curie Americium (.9 will be sufficient)...(.1) would work..just need a voltage bias to avoid "priming" the circuit.

Edit: 1 MICRO curie
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Last edited by mcombatti; 11-28-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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  #57  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:36 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Elevation....

Below 1750 feet... you will need to increase the resonant frequency of the circuit.... although I have said the circuit will not function below the critical elevation point...it will indeed with some "fan-angling" (tuning)... location in the world can also effect the best frequency...above 1750 feet and below the stratosphere...the circuit will work as described above :-) Using a plate to collect ionized particles alone will not work below 1750...
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  #58  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:41 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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solar cell

Quote:
Originally Posted by StweenyA View Post
@mcombatti, thanks very much for those photo's and all!

I am going to get my hands dirty this weekend

I have been thinking... You say you use the alpha emitters to create a bias.... Would it not be possible to use something like a small solar cell to do the same thing? Would it have the same effect? How would one connect it up?
I imagine anything is possible...although I do not know where to begin using a solar cell...the bias within the tube is equal but opposite to the charge which rides over the coil...the rapid 'sea-saw' motion of charge potentials keeps the ion pump working...
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:43 AM
mcombatti mcombatti is offline
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Apology Accepted :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LetsReplicate View Post
Edit: I got the new jar wound, it's working a little better. I found out that the jars will give even higher voltage than with just a CFL if it is sitting on Fluorite while the CFL is shinning on it. I'm getting reasonable voltage now, but not much current. The LED is very dim, but it stays lit now. I'll get more wire and wind a high-inductance coil tomorrow to see if I hit my capacitor max voltage naturally. I'm willing to call this proof of concept, so I'd like to apologize for the criticism earlier in this message.
I am responding because I see you online, and want to make sure you see my latest post :-)
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:32 AM
LetsReplicate LetsReplicate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcombatti View Post
I am responding because I see you online, and want to make sure you see my latest post :-)
Yes, thank you. The frequencies are going to be VERY helpful in getting this working, one of my first bottles was not far off that. I'll order the remaining parts today and hopefully have this working by the end of the week.

The scams are that they never show the complete circuit. For example the cell phone charger (Tesla Secret Generator) misses any mention of the ground or a proper antenna preventing it from being useful.

I was running the circuit as an RF receiving charge pump by using a bifilar sensing pancake coil to cause suction on Earth. The inside of the first coil went to the antenna, outside to the circuit. The earth ground connected from outside to inside on the second coil which is about the same as what we're doing here minus the radiation. I'm wondering if the back-end of your circuit will work as well on that ground pump: I can't see any reason it wouldn't.

Those are nice pictures, did you use a CAD program? I'm using DraftSight these days because AutoCAD is so expensive.
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Last edited by LetsReplicate; 11-28-2011 at 04:49 AM.
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