Kevin, is this paint for the outside of your home or barn only or can it be used inside instead? I have a brick home so painting outside isn't an option...

It can be used on the inside or outside.

I am painting the outside of my barn-walls and roof.

I am painting several inside walls in the house, also the ceiling of the great room, because of no insulation above it in the attic.

Kevin--does this paint look "different" after it dries in terms of texture or sheen?

I have 2 coops (23 chickens) so this paint sounds like a good idea for the west-facing walls. Both have cedar shake roofs which stay cooler in the summer time, but I'd hate to mar their rustic beauty. Have you noticed if your coops stay warmer in cold weather?

athena, i believe you can always run a regular coat of paint right over the top of it.

Anyone can get the real stuff here:

Hi Kevin,

It has been a hectic few weeks since my last communication with you, what with preparing for a move, enhancing my home for the sale, alternately working on maintenence, repairs, and repainting at my cottage, slowly piecing together my Bedini machine and hydrosonic pump, improving my Smack Booster design, finishing an annual upgrade to a data entry computer program I wrote for the Maine Volunteer Lake Monitoring Project Maine Volunteer Lake Monitoring Program
and probably spending too much of my time participating in many of the forum threads here. I can't seem to stay away from it for very long, though, as I feel so drawn to it, and love conversing with the many brilliant, talented, and experienced individuals who also come here regularly. And of these people, it was you who instilled in me a fervent desire to furthur pursue my self-reliance energy quest. I found our phone conversation, back in May, to be extremely interesting and thought provoking, and it really helped greatly in understanding some things about the Bedini machines that I had been contemplating. For example, I had known that the 6 coil radial machine's aluminum rotor, shown at New Page 2 after machining and before placing the magnets, is 6 inches in diameter. Doing a close-up examination, I was able to determine, from that 6 inch scaling, the actual width and depth of the magnet slots cut into it were 7/8 inch and 3/4 inch, respectively. That, of course would allow for stacking of two 1.875"x7/8"x3/8" ceramic bar magnets, which seem to be the most popular size for Bedini machines. I had seen magnets stacked that way in several online photos and videos, but I hadn't know about the super-pole arrangement that you told me about, which places the opposing faces of the magnets together. You also told me of another superpole arrangement you devised which works even better. I don't believe that John had ever explained that method clearly, although he seems to have alluded to it in the BediniSG forum saying, "As for the 10 pole machine [first photo in the above link] it uses a very sharp trigger super pole north magnet around the rotor and very low impedance coils." Perhaps one could call it the Super Duper Superpole arrangement. It is not shown in any diagrams that I am aware of on the Internet, and perhaps you would be so kind as to share that discovery with everyone. I understand how it is done, but would prefer that you explain it, seeing as you were the first person (aside from JB, at least) to utilize the method. I must say, that was one great find from your TRV sessions. I hope to talk with you again sometime soon, and this time the call is on me. You gave me so much insight, and I hope that I can give back at least a portion of that in some way that will be helpful to you.

My very best wishes,

Rick

I bought the ceramic paint additive but won't be using it until I get moved. My question is....after I have the inside walls painted with the ceramic paint additive. will it always work the same even when another color coat of paint is put over it? In other words, does it work indefinetley?

Keven or anyone else that has used the paint additive....What have you noticed since using the additive in regards to lower electric or gas bills for heating or cooling your home?

Yes I believe so. I know when I was asking the company different questions they did say you can paint over it.

Jessica

I painted over mine. There is no problem.

Has no one who has used the Hy-Tech paint additive noticed a substantial reduction in their heating or cooling cost?

I have the additive on virtually every square inch of the inside of my house. 2 layers...I mixed it in primer and spread it on thick before adding the regular paint.

I also have aluminum radiant barrier spread across my entire attic on top of 1 ft of fiberglass insulation.

When my attic temperature was about 125, the inside temperature on my ceiling was only about 78 or so. I thought I posted this in here before. That is almost 50 degrees cooler!! None of that attic heat made it through. That is also 78 when the outside temp was about 100.

Basically, I needed no air conditioning and I used 1 single box fan sitting on top of my attic access panel. It is aimed upwards into the attic. When I turn it on, it does push the hot air out of the attic, but since that heat isn't making in into the house, that isn't the benefit of the fan. I close all the doors and windows in the house and crack the door to the basement. Basement stays bout 55 all year round. With the fan on, it sucks cool air from the basement into the main floor towards the fan and into the attic. So 1 box fan gave a cool breeze to and moved air on the main floor and basement, which is a combined area of over 1600 square feet.

My electric bill hasn't been over $45 in any month...usually I do not have the fan running because it isn't needed...if 80 outside, inside stays in the low 70's. The house just stays cool inside no matter what.

$45 is with about $6 taxes so that is about $39 in electricity. It is for about 625kwh per month. I have one desktop computer running 24/7 in the basement and that alone is 250-300watt hours non stop and a laptop on 24/7 and it takes 60watts nonstop...together, both computers account for over 30% of my entire electric bill. I average 1000watts of usage at any given time for the whole house.

If I "power factor correct" my house, I can probably drop the power usage by 1/3 easily since most of it is inductive loads (things that use a magnetic field in their power supply - computers, refrigerators, etc...).

Anyway, you can see I have no real cooling bill.

This past winter, I upgraded the burner on my oil furnace to a Beckett AFG high efficiency burner. I'm not interested in relying on grid-tied gas heat so I stayed with oil. It is blown hot air so doesn't keep the inside as warm as radiant heat but I didn't spend much on heating. The heat generated on the inside of the house stays inside much longer since it hits the paint additive and stays inside...and anything that does move through the paint on the ceiling will hit the radiant aluminum barrier. Basically, the heat I make stays in the house. I still have to replace my windows to newer vinyl windows and this will help even more.

Soon, I'm having the chimney repaired and will have a high efficiency fireplace insert since I love wood heat. It is also radiant so with a little wood, it will roast the entire main floor. I won't need to use a lot of wood since I will keep the heat in that I make for much longer than without the additive. So it works both ways in the winter and summer.

Thank you all for the feed back on the HY-Tech paint additive. It shows me I made a wise choice and I look forward to painting the inside of my house (when I get it) and then perhaps, the outside.

To all,
Now you're in one of my areas of expertise. First off 120 degrees in a well insulated attic, with radiant barrier paint or foil, will easily easily translate to a 35 degree first floor difference. Or, whatever floor is beneath the attic. I am not saying not to try this "product from NASA," just be very wary of the claims.
A well designed house will offer more benefits than any after market "fix."
One of the worst things I have seen, when people try to cut down on the cost of heating and cooling, they make the mistake of not understanding how "good" houses should be built. As in: Is the house properly oreinted to the sun? Is the landscaping such that the trees provide shade in the summer, and block the cold winds in the winter?
Painting a roof? Why? Is it too cold, or too hot? No product will do both. Common sense. In the north, if you must, paint it dark, in the south paint it light. There are probably a thousand things I could reccomend, but a ceramic additive to paint would not be one of them.
My house is about 2500 square feet. Want to know how much caulk I used? One tube. Why? Over sealing a house is like suffocating yourself. Where is the daily expansion and contraction going to show up? Yep. All those joints you have sealed. This "paint company" reminds me of the dopes that sold 7-layer paint. Never have to paint again! No doggie-poo, your house will rot from the inside out before you have a chance to paint again. Not to mention the termites and ants you won't see.
Radiant barrier paint was tried for twenty years before it was sold to the public. This stuff? Class of four-thirty. Please stay away from products with little history.
Dan

Hi Rhozzi,

If you have easy access to your attic, I'd definitely also put the foil radiant barrier across the insulation.

Many of us actually did various tests painting this additive even one layer on wood, sheetrock, etc...and put heat lamps, etc... and there were significant temperature drops when measuring the temp on the back side every time so it definitely works. With two coats, it works better.

These were all side-by-side tests with wood, etc... that was simply painted without the additive mixed into it. With the additive always had the lower temperature.

HeyAaron,
AAArrrrgggh. So what? Save two dollars to spend two thousand? The house is a box, expanding and contracting twice a day. Know how many times I have had to fix some stupid new product after five years. Nah. Never mind. You are gonna screw up any way. Then you'll pay someone like me to fix it. Nah. You'll pay for another quick fix, "new" product, bunch of garbage.
Call me when you are interested in doing it properly.
Dan

md,

I don't see how applied paint can cause a house to loose any air leaks it may have. Possibly in the walls and ceilings but I don't think those are the usual places air leaks occur.

The point of the paint is to stop radiant heat.


Jessica