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  #61  
Old 05-11-2011, 07:57 AM
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blackchisel97 blackchisel97 is offline
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I don't recall him saying how large was a gap. All I have is this pic.
I'll keep looking for spools.

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  #62  
Old 05-11-2011, 08:10 AM
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I found some spools here - http://www.periplast.de/fileadmin/pe...and_spools.pdf

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  #63  
Old 05-11-2011, 08:21 AM
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Rod its a non magnetic spacer. I think he said he used a plastic washer. It is also the stator housing. I believe his cores do not go all the way through the acrylic.

Regarding bobbins. Im not 100% sure yet but I going to try a sewing thread bobbin you can get at Woolworths. I'll post a pic when I get it. Its considerably longer however.

Regards
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  #64  
Old 05-11-2011, 08:38 AM
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Gaps and coils

Quote:
Originally Posted by toranarod View Post
Pictured Below is Romerouk work


Hi there Rod,
Between the rotor magnet and coil is 3.5 - 4 mm , the coil is 1cm from the soft iron washer , then the outside magnet is stuck to the washer as i see it . Im going to wind my coils so the negative wire is closest to the core when wound how about you . cheers Jason
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  #65  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:05 AM
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tjnlsn255 tjnlsn255 is offline
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Why 2 hall devices?

Why not put the motor coils in series or parallel and then you only need one hall switch....

I am following this with much interest.....:-)

Hopes and dreams.....

Todd
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  #66  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:12 AM
john_g john_g is offline
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Spacing

Hi Toranarod

Re the gap, he did say:

"Make sure that spacing betwen the coils or between the magnets on the rotor is equally spaced. The distance betwen the coils and the rotor must be adjusted depending on the magnets used, core... Too close is not neccesary good."

Although I cannot find the quote, I thought he said the gap was 3.5 -4.00mm, although I see on one drawing that figure is shown as the offset of the magnet from the rim - so maybe I read it wrong.

Regards

John
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  #67  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:39 AM
redrichie redrichie is offline
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concerning the vids. Anyone else notice that NOT ALL the magnets on the top plate of the generator are there. And if im seeing correctly the ones that are there are not all the same size. Look at 1:57 of this vid:
YouTube - free energy device self running powering lightbulb - RomeroUK Muller Motor - Generator
Muller sad "By cleverly balancing".

Also if you put a strong neo on a small ferrite rod, even with a spacer, it is magnetized like the magnet. So in essence the cores are in repulsion with the rotor magnets until a drive coil is triggered. When it is triggered the coil fires a pulse hard enough to produce an opposite polarity in the magnetized core. (he said he was running stronger in attraction mode) When the pulse is done the core returns to its magnetized pole and helps push the rotor magnet as it passes. So it attracts very strong with the pulse, and then uses a natural, FREEEE, push from the returning magnetic field. 2 for the price of one. This is Regauging correct?
But this makes me wonder if the magnets that ARE ON the top plate are all orientated the way it is posted. With all N poles facing down to the rotor. Because if you were to cleverly balance out the magnetic fields Like Muller said, a large N pole magnet on a ferrite generator coil would have a double bounce generating effect similar to the drive coil. But using brute force to push the rotor through the field. The next generator coil may have a smaller but OPPOSITELY polarized core the help balance and pull the rotor through the stronger preceding generating coil. I find it hard understand that small of a drive coil firing one at a time to overcome all that repulsive energy of those large neos. Unless the flywheel of the rotor is pushing it through. Sorry if this is distracting
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  #68  
Old 05-11-2011, 11:49 AM
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Hi folks, I'm posting my progress on this forum, the other forum thread is all over the map, nobody even replies to posts it seems.
I fired up my setup with just the 5 coil/cores, only one driving coil in repulsion, just to see if it would spin up to a decent rpm.
At 12 volts it's probably around 500 rpm, though with using the reed switch, the pulse on time may be too long or the 24 gauge wire may be drawing too much amperage as the coil/core is getting rather hot.
Of course it could be the steel bolt, though I've had similar steel bolts run cold to the touch in other pulse motors.
So my guess is too much amps for this coil.
It was drawing 700 milliamps no load, and when I shorted one coil it only rose about 50 milliamps.
The reed switch is only temporary for testing.
Anyway, this was just to see if it would even spin up properly.
Though of course, eventually I will get get ferrite cores or equivalent.
Your comments are very welcome, even though I know this setup is not the same, it's the only materials I have for now.


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peace love light
tyson
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  #69  
Old 05-11-2011, 01:26 PM
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Smile At least you are doing something

Hi tyson,

Great to see some work progressing on the build. I have some litz wire on order so hope to get started soon myself. I am going to use my window motor as a drive source since I know I can get it to run with a very low current draw and am more familiar with how to get what I want from it. I have some magnets and am trying to decide if they are too big for what I want to build. Still looking for some suitable cores. I understand you are using what you have as I am to start with, but I really think you will not have much success until you get some good cores. I have had good results using electric fence wire cut into short pieces (same length as core) and packed tightly into the center of the coil. This may work for us until we can get some of the right ferrite cores. I will be watching with anticipation your build and will share what I have done as soon as I get something done.

Good luck, Carroll
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  #70  
Old 05-11-2011, 01:43 PM
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Hi Carroll, thanks for replying to my post. Ok, I think i figured out why the coil/core was heating so much, the reed switch was sticking intermittently.
Yes, these bolt cores have way too much eddy currents flowing through them. If I move the rotor away some distance, it spins forever.

So definitely going to have to figure out another core, though In the meantime I will make a few more tests with this setup, though i think i will not bother winding the other 5 bolt cores.
I have to say though, with only the 1 coil driving this, it did a pretty good job fighting all those eddy currents in the bolt cores, so i can only imagine what ferrite would be like.
It should fly without those eddy currents.
Though Bill Muller said that hardened steel, like ball bearings would work fairly well also.
I have these large ferrite beads, 3/4" diameter X 1-1/8" long, I think I'll wind a few hundred turns of 24 gauge on one and see how good of a magnetic field is created.
They are $3.15 for 9 at surplus shop.
I have 4 already, here is a pic of them.


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peace love light
tyson
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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 05-11-2011 at 01:51 PM.
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  #71  
Old 05-11-2011, 02:15 PM
gene gene gene gene is offline
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Would like to help

Hi all, I hope & pray RomeroUK is OK.
I have little electronic knowledge, but learning much here. I am starting to put together an electronics bench now, a little at a time, limited funds.
I would very much like to help here & was thinking if someone here could post a drawing (in inches), of an ideal size spool. Could I not then build these spools for you in my wood working shop? I have a nice drill press, & large Milwaukee hole saw kit (in inches), with many sizes. Thin wall plastic tubing & sheet plastic, glue?
Thanks & best wishes to all here, Gene
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  #72  
Old 05-11-2011, 02:38 PM
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Here is a link for ferrite cores.
Ferrite Rods : CWS ByteMark, largest supplier of toroids, ferrite cores, iron powder cores, MPP cores and RF cores
The R-025400-61 most closely duplicates what is needed for this build
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  #73  
Old 05-11-2011, 02:44 PM
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Cores

I still stick with my Magnetite on this. It is cheap, you can get a Kg for few bucks, and epoxy, which is not to expansive also. Will try to let it settle next time with Magnets on it, like P. Lindemann suggested. The one i made are average, even when i did not to much test with them, but they still work better as Air cores, and -maybe- as solid Iron cores. Further, i can make any Size i want with a Form, and dont need to look for the right sizes.
Can make them hollow also, when i put a tube ore something at setting into the middle.
I only think about Permeability, from what i know, Nickel can increase it, but its hard to get and toxic. May Copper powder to mix with? Else, i stay at Fe3O4 ironoxide.

Sooner or later i will start one too and use for drive it my pice of Newman motor.
It is efficient too has a good torque and easy to build.
Still thinking about, if it is an advantage, to use the Setup from the Adams Motor, where the Coils have the Size from the Magnetic Force. Or maybe this does make not to much matter anymore, since there should be Magnets at the end of the Coils.
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  #74  
Old 05-11-2011, 03:13 PM
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Hi folks, I wound 24 gauge around one of those large ferrite beads, around 6.5 ohms worth and at 12 volts it repels my 1" diameter X 3/4" long neo magnets on the rotor, very well.
I think I will use these and see how it works.
peace love light
tyson
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  #75  
Old 05-11-2011, 08:56 PM
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Hi Skywatcher.

I have the same beads at home. I was looking at them last night. There is something to be said for hollow cores Keep it up

Regards
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  #76  
Old 05-11-2011, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toranarod View Post
Pictured Below is Romerouk work




The correct position is location B




I am having bobbins from PVC
will post photo in few days
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  #77  
Old 05-11-2011, 09:51 PM
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Hi Rod,

Have you done any preliminary tests on coils yet.

Just can not seem to get anywhere near 12v from anything I have tried.

Your thoughts, please.

Penno
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  #78  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:37 PM
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Hi folks, Hi ren, thanks for the encouragement. Yes I think I read from Bill Muller, that he also said hardened steel tube cores would work fairly well also. So ferrite can only be that much better.
Here's a pic of one of the coil/cores. Just using tape right now to hold it together, have to think of something to hold it together better.


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peace love light
tyson
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  #79  
Old 05-11-2011, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi folks, Hi ren, thanks for the encouragement. Yes I think I read from Bill Muller, that he also said hardened steel tube cores would work fairly well also. So ferrite can only be that much better.
Here's a pic of one of the coil/cores. Just using tape right now to hold it together, have to think of something to hold it together better.


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peace love light
tyson
What are the dimensions of the coil? looks good
now wind 17 more LOL thats seem like job?

I am having formers made are you interested in a few?
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  #80  
Old 05-12-2011, 12:44 AM
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apairently this is a hoax . but it looks like its worth trying to build one to see if its only a fake hoax, putting this on the to do list.

cheers ztec
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  #81  
Old 05-12-2011, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztec2002 View Post
apairently this is a hoax . but it looks like its worth trying to build one to see if its only a fake hoax, putting this on the to do list.

cheers ztec
And your opinion is based on what precisely?

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  #82  
Old 05-12-2011, 02:08 AM
ztec2002 ztec2002 is offline
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Just seen it on the PESWiKi web site, just made me wonder whats going on?

cheers ztec2002
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  #83  
Old 05-12-2011, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztec2002 View Post
Just seen it on the PESWiKi web site, just made me wonder whats going on?

cheers ztec2002
As you probably noticed this thread is for replication not wondering and speculations. You've made a comment classifying this as a "apparent hoax" based solely on something you read on PESWiKi web site.
You've asked in other thread - why is no one making a megwhy no one is replicating MEG and were about to have one built over the weekend. In another thread - The Magnetman MEG release Date 5/11/11 you apparently failed to recognize the very MEG you're suppose to have done by now and video posted.
May I ask what is your agenda?


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  #84  
Old 05-12-2011, 02:34 AM
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Hi folks, Hi toranarod, thanks for the offer and kind words, though I think I'll just use a few dabs of glue here and there to keep it structurally sound.

Then use a couple dabs of JB weld to glue the core to the main frame.

I'm going with the 5 coil/10 total, 6 rotor magnet geometry.
The coil is 1-1/2" diameter X 1-1/8" long
Ferrite bead core is 3/4" diameter X 1-1/8" long X 5/32" wall thickness.

I also figured out the problem with the reed switch on my last test with the bolt cores.
When the strong neo magnets are in close proximity to the reed switch, the timing magnet rotor has to be repelling the magnets on the main rotor or the reed switch tends to stick and does not switch properly.
Hope this helps anyone that is using reed switch for testing.
I'm going to test bolt core again to see how it runs now, while I'm winding these ferrite beads.
peace love light
tyson
Oh by the way, all this suppression garbage does not tend to fly here, we know the game being played and soon enough, all the people will know.
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  #85  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:17 AM
electr0n electr0n is offline
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The wiring for each coil pair appears to me (going by the photos)

Call the top of the generator as pictured with the pcbs on top, as it was on the table.

The top coil appears wound anticlockwise, the centre or start of the winding exits the stator outside-closest to the outer edge. The end of the winding exits 180deg (closer to the shaft).
The ends of the coil winding are soldered to a 3pin wire clip.
The centre pin of the 3pin wire clip goes to the end of the winding, and the wire from the centre pin is a series link to the bottom coil.

Can someone confirm this so far?
will post progress on my replication if you guys want
all the best
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  #86  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:38 AM
ztec2002 ztec2002 is offline
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i dont think its a hoax i did put this very interesting build on my do list and i have not lost hope in the meg.

cheers ztec2002
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  #87  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:46 AM
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Hi folks, I ran another test with the 5 bolt coils on one side as before and now it runs much better now that reed is switching better, though the coil/core is still getting hot, just takes longer for it to do so.
I think the amperage capacity of the wire is being exceeded and the on time being too long may account for that.
Like i said, because I've had steel bolts run cold before.
Reason I'm testing this is because I don't want to wind all these ferrite bead cores to then find out that the wire can't handle much average current and will heat up the ferrite cores just the same.
Maybe putting multiple 24 gauge strands together like the litz method will prevent this heat buildup.
What do you folks think, is it mainly the core or could it just be the amp capacity of the wire is being exceeded?
at 12 volts it was 300 milliamps and at 24 volts it was 550 milliamps.
peace love light
tyson
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  #88  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:50 AM
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To protect open source engineers, guys this idea was inspired by Lawrence, i dont know why we didn't think of it before, there are enough TRUSTED engineers and we can vouch for a close groups of friends that can form a secure open source team in private PRIOR TO DISCLOSURE TO TEST/CONFIRM/IMPROVE and protect the individual.

After the RAVI and Romerouk case, it should be clear how to proceed. Send the info to the team first.

Information and reports can be sent in private to this team in a secure link (open source engineers first disclosure) . When there are sufficient replications by the team, an organization (not an individual) can publish the open source information. The team can give critical technical support before hand and TRACK what we need too .

There are many other ways to do it, but we need some thing, the individual must have a criteria to be safer then whats going on we have seen too many and should be able to counter this now, ill put up that resources for all and already have trusted engineers who can do what i mentioned am open to ideas but send them to me off list we wont hi jack the thread.

Ps, Rod will send some help over for the Rep this evening


Ash
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  #89  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewizard View Post
Yes I think RomeroUK is genuine. I've had a number of PM's with him in the last year. Take a look here at some of his many projects (his forum - small but lots of pics): RomeroUK Work Pictures

He's a serious builder and is meticulous in fine tuning his builds.
http://underservice.org/index.php?topic=4.0
RomeroUK Work Pictures gone too!
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  #90  
Old 05-12-2011, 03:59 AM
ztec2002 ztec2002 is offline
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besides magnet mans meg , the magnets are placed wrong i dont see how that would work. may be wrong, just how i feel.

cheers ztec2002
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