Can you post a schematic for those of us not getting a mental picture? (me)

Tyson, you're 'da man!!
Ripped out the extra diodes and 10,20k resistors and increased the base resistors to 330 Ohm.
Now, when the circuit pulls 1.67A, there is no more smoke from the variable resistor

Still need to fiddle around with the values though, as my window of tuning still is very very small - ~10deg turn on the variable resistor.
The open circuit voltage is 650V now and the frequency is low and horrible.
Only takes a minute or two to get a headache from
What frequency are you running?

Considering I have an air core, the magnetic field at the end of the coil is very strong!!
I stuck the coil to the metal casing - flat side - and now wander if that will influence the field.
Should I lay the coil into the housing, so that the magnetic field at the end of the coil cannot interact with the case that much?
How have you guys mounted yours?

In response to a certain rant above, I have re-analyzed the calibration of my light-box described in some detail earlier in this thread.

I use the general formulas for the mean and for the standard deviation (see attached). I deduce from the data for my light box that the mean is 0.0793 (this is the calibration factor) and the standard deviation is 0.00249. Thus, one may see that the variance is small, 3.1%.

I trust this is acceptable, but would ask PB to provide similar numbers for his light box calibration.

For those interested, my web page provides a list of publications in peer-reviewed journals including Nature, Physical Review Letters and Scientific American.
Dr. Steven E. Jones

Overall, my sense is that efforts to contribute to the alternative-energy community and to humanity generally are better served by posting results in other venues; farewell.

Attached Images

Sigma.jpg (13.1 KB, 21 views)

@Steven and All:
I am sad by what you just mentioned.
We all have our different opinions, test results, and view points, etz... This is normal and desirable.
But, the lack of kindness and consideration at times between us all, is not.
I have previously asked Lynx to stay on at OU, and PB here, and now this.
I know what you are feeling, as I have been confronted by similar situations, a time or two, myself. And sometimes I'm as much at fault, as anyone.
So, I will ask you, also, to reconsider, especially now as we are approaching the doorstep of a possible and very real break-through here.
Do this for US.

NickZ

Hi folks, Hi harvester, I don't have measuring device for coil freq., though my air core coil is definitely over 60hz, a guess might be 500hz.
My air core coil is 5 strands, 1 trigger, the other 4 parallel-24 gauge strands are around 1.4 ohms total.
Hi zardox, Here is the circuit I am using for my radiant charger.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
peace love light
tyson

Thank you kindly!

The 2 watt bulb works extremely well with the 12 volt AA bundle. My local outlet has a wide assortment of 120 volt LED bulbs. I purchased and installed a 3.5 watt overhead vanity light, with a large glass ball. The light glows festivly! Pretty cool for ambiance in the boat cabin. I tried to light a CFL with the Jr 2.0; No dice!

My boxed version now includes 3 outlets. I can run Bow and Stern lights with extension cords from the same inverter, and have a cabin light too. I'm thrilled with the setup so far.

The rectifier has me wondering if the LED'S run off D.C. inside the bulb. I'll try and light them that way and see.

The 2.0 joule ringer is a winner...my hat is off to you guys...i put a wall socket and switch box together with the radio shack 450mA transformer and two nights of bright light from lidmotors eightpack battery arrangement...its drawing about one hundred milliamps...not bad. Not bad at all it has the french inverter circuit beat by 200 milliamps however the transformer on the multivibrator inverter was the larger 3 amp 12 volt size...anyway great circuit got a pile of em now you guys are so much fun to learn from...Damon over and out.

@PhysicsProf. I do not intend to repel you away from this. I won't point out these aspects further. My intentions are based in accuracy and hoping for a standard. I also hope a couple more people make your light box to further this as well.
You've got a nice page there and seem well accomplished. Myself, I'm a nobody and prefer it that way. I guess my first post into this community on OU stated this.

I feel that our disagreement is small in terms of our perspectives. I've stated that the box design works and works well! I'm just more along creating a calibration factor for bulb A and a separate for bulb B; rather than a single mean.

I looked at my tested bulb numbers and calibrations to see as you ask; hadn't really looked at the deviation yet. I do have many separate factors now, so that helps.
I'm pretty simple here and just used shown low and high verses calculated mean and it is interesting. First various factors. These factors are averages of all numbers and placement.
Incandescent & WW compact (60/13w)--- .201
Mystery light from MASS CELL (3.3w)-- .191
Utilitech 7.5w WW-- .184
Compact Daylight 13w--.177
Utilitech 7.5w Day (on 3-way adapters)--.169
Utilitech 7.5w Day-- .156

I guess the mean of the means from above would be .180. If we compare the high / low factors (.201-.156) we have a tested derivation of 11.5% High and 15.4% low.

So I tried a single bulb type and getting a mean of the various numbers and placements. Here I used the 7.5w Daylight from 1,2,4,6 Bulbs (6 point). From above mean is .156 and high / low is .167-.144. Here, with a single exact bulb type but including all number and placement variations; we have a smaller derivation. Here it is 7% High and 8% low.

Next I tried a single bulb type and single number (1), but with just placement variations. I used 7.5w WW Utilitech and the mean for 1 bulb and placement variation is; .182 (3 point). the high / low for this combo is .179-.186. We end up then, with a single type and single number; only varying placement, with a derivation of 2.2% High or 1.6% low.

Finally, the only other possibility I can test; is variation among same bulb, same number and same placement. Here is basically the repeatability of the meter. On average this works out to 10 Lux per 2500. So, with this method of calibration the total "variation" is 0.4%.

Seems the derivation is largest with varying bulb types and wattage, smaller with varying numbers of a given type; smaller still, when only varying placement of a single type and single number. I guess when nothing is varied it's mostly the meter repeatability. There is, most likely, a change in factor relative to total lumen output from max (e.g. 60v-120v ac); most logically it would relate somewhat to varying only placement, however smaller. Appx. 1%. (what I state in video)

I hope I answered what you asked and again I'm not meaning to cause drama. It is very rare for me to be outspoken, though I doubt anyone would buy that here, lol. Again, I do not want to make you leave; as I'm the one that should be gone already. If I have offended you to make you feel unwelcome I must apologize. I agree that Nick is right, we all need to get along to move efficiently forward. I will try to do my part.

Thanks,
PB

Resorting to Ad hominum remarks and personal invective always points to the same deficiency in the instigator. Uncertain of fundamentals, it helps to start a food fight.

Bpth have achieved in amplifying the light output
thru the aluminum foil as a luminaire
Now time to move on to other media as well as shown by my example of different types ex old laser disc, mirror, bottle with water and bleach
this compensates for the not so bright output but with less amps to continue all night long with solar charged batteries
cmon guys we are on the right track and almost there
if a lux meter is already a luxury or a burden in my experiment ive demonstrated using the naked eye and actual light condition that ive achieved something
no more candles to burn my house or kill somebody
no more wandering in the dark
More food in the table
AND MOST OF ALL NO LIGHT BOX USED LOL
totoalas

I just want to say that I'm more than pleased with all remarks, and contributions, all are valuable, very much so.
Thank you all,
Nick

This is my first post in this message board as well as this topic. I'v built the SJR2 at posted on YouTube by peanutbuter (wish I knew why you removed your account) Anyway, I got pulled from this project due to the untimely demise of my HVAC condenser fan motor.
I'm back on it now and I'm planing on using a standard radioshack 120vac to 12vdc transformer to power the SJR2. I don't know if it will preform well enough to save some watts in my 1,2,4,5,& 8 bulb systems around my house, but I will use my kill-a-watt meter to see if it does. I then plan to install jacks so that in the event of a long term power failure, I can then run them in standard 12 volt batteries.

For me it is about getting my whole house to use as few watts as possible before going solar.

However my attic insulation project is slowing down the conversions of lamps & light fixtures in my house.

Congratulations on your successful replication. My findings were the same about this beating the French inverter as far as a lighting device. Both are useful though. My little battery pack idea has worked out well for me also. It is just a simple power source solution that works.

I am now trying to build a homemade battery that will drive this thing. It can be done but the question is whether or not it is worth the effort.

It is just something fun to try.


Lidmotor

Hi Lidmotor
Thats what Im thinking also any kind as long as it WORKS
Ive read about marine type aluminum batteries they call it alum bath batteries using sea water as electrolyte
How about House ground or earth ground as Tesla says its every where
Your penny oscillator is a good starting point


totoalas

I'm also working on tying the Exciter circuit to my homemade cells, and its working. But, so is solar, so maybe this is going to be a combination, as solar works fine during the day, and the cells work at all times. It's All fun, so we'll see how it goes.
I'm also interested in making Slayers version of the Lasersaber circuit, as it may be even more cost effective to run on fewer mAs, yet.
Nick

I just went to Lowe's to buy one 7.5 watt, 450 lumen A19 Uitiltech bulb.

Testing against a Home Depot 8.6 watt, 430 lumen A19 Ecosmart bulb, the ecosmart is clearly brighter. The light from the ecosmart bulb is whiter & reading with the Ecosmart is easier as the text on the page seem sharper.

I was hoping the Uitilitech would win since I have about 60 light sockets in my home that would have saved me 60 wats of power if I ever had all my lights on at once. ( I never will )

So now on to radio shack to buy a new transformer as I blew the last one when I removed the pot & resister. I want to make first a 4 bulb system to power the lights in all of my 4 celing fans & in my kids bathroom as those fixtures hold four bulbs each. later I can work on my two five bulb chandlers & my 8 bulb over the sink bathroom light.

Hi minoly, thanks for kind words.
When I was using the diodes, I did not see any benefits with the diodes on E/B for charging, though each setup may vary.
peace love light
tyson

I finally got in a few of these bulbs that was recommended above. Gosh, all this foreign stuff takes forever to get!

I noticed that these are dimmable bulbs, but rated for 180-220v, however as PhysicsProf says; 120v is enough to at least light them. I must say I'm extremely disappointed in the light from these of A/C.
*Note, I've ordered a 220v step-up transformer so I can get a more "full" light comparison; I think this will help (well I hope).

RESULTS:
Since we don't have a known lumens @ 120v, we have to make some assumptions on light and conversion factor. I did compare several Kelvin ratings to get an idea (since that's proven to be the DOMINATE factor in calibration factor variation). The 5000K daylight Utilitech are close, but not quite as blue; so the conversion WILL be different.

My best assumption then, is that conversion should be similar to these Utilitech then @ .156. I'll get a better idea when I can run at proper voltage.

-Bulb on line A/C 118v@ 10ma - 1.1w
Output: 45 Lumens (@.156 Daylight calib. Most likely)
Max possible 55 Lumens (@.201 using Inc. WW calib.)
Lu/W = 45.5 +/- (5) on 120v A/C

I'm sure this may be higher efficiency and more lumens with 220v, so I'll report back when I test there. Also, I don't want to try an SJR run until I can establish a conversion and lumens. Otherwise, these in A/C can't even work as a night light!!!!????? Shouldn't have ordered 3, lol.

With other aspects; I've almost got all the circuitry for the MASS CELL. Hopefully I can assemble a proto- pretty soon. After which, I'll most likely will show a video. Again, I'm not sure what I'll do after. Maybe others will have ideas once, "what it is"; is known.

Thx
PB

PS- I also tried my modded internal circuit with a few different transformers to see. Although it IS better than stock; I cannot get within 10 Lu/W of what the Radio shack and modded combo got. This does confirm that is a required and "tuned" setup; darn.
I had planned on doing a transformer run-down video also, but I'm not sure. I've tested most of the available designs (7-8?) and learned some there.

@ AllenBurgess
I assume you were talking to me. Thank you for an honest expression of your thoughts about me. I believe you are the first! As I've said, I encourage comments and debate.
I'm not sure how you ended up with the perception that I lack fundamentals or was being irrelevant at the cost of causing drama; Again I appreciate honesty first, I'm sorry if you feel that way. I've not hidden my knowledge or background, nor professed anything larger than being a nobody. I only have assumptions, but I don't expect I'm liked here or OU; no worries, this is nothing new as I've never fit in before and I didn't expect to now. Though, never been considered anything other than too nice; heh guess I've lost some compassion.

My Lux meter showed up. kzep measured 180 volts out from the 12 volts fed into the 6 volt center tap. My video on the multiple bulbs was at the 180 volts. Increasing the voltage reduces Ohmic resistence, so running extra bulbs at the higher voltage probably makes a difference.

I purchased a 45 watt set of 3 solar panels, 9 square feet, for under $200. from Harbor freight. It comes with it's own inverter, and can run appliances like T.V.s with no battery like our solar charger, and charge a 12 volt deep cycle marine battery in 2 days.

I have 2 boxed Jr 2's on the sailboat, one in a small vanity box that came out nicely. I will upload a video.

@Peanutbutter29,

I just got 86'd off the "Earthlight thread" for a crap toss with JB. We don't need anymore casualties like me off the JR thread.

FROM 1 AA CELL CHARGER AND OR 9 V DC CELL 20 TO 100 MA 200 TO 2000 LUX 5 WATT 220 V AC LED LAMP LOAD

GOODBYE TO CANDLE EXCEPT FOR B DAY LOL


TOTOALAS
SUPER JOULE RINGER FLASHLIGHT 160612 - YouTube

Here is a replication of my version of Super Joule Ringer 2.0 that uses the 450mA Radio Shack transformer. Magnetman has replicated many of my projects and always seems to make them better. He also talks in the video about the Plengo cells (homemade batteries) and how well they work. Perhaps we could build a battery pack of them to run the smaller Ringer units like what I have.


Super Joule Ringer & Cell update.MOV - YouTube

Lidmotor

95 Lumans per watt. Jones maintains multiple bulbs help!

95LmPerWatt.AVI - YouTube

Also of interest is LinkStream's video wherein he demonstrates the increased efficiency of multiple bulbs. I'll perform my experiment tomorrow and upload a new video.

LynxSteam - YouTube

Did a version of Lidmotor's circuit and it works nicely, thank for that.

Took a transformer I had lying around 240V to 12V@3A and another low voltage.
Had to change values, but got it working from 80mA.
At 80mA it was flickering though.

Once at 110mA, two 3.5W led and a Christmas tree chain with 100 leds work fine.
It is not as bright as using the 3.5W bulb straight from main, but at
340mA it is brighter than running from mains.
Do not have a light meter, so used judging by two people.

Waiting on more bulbs to arrive to see how it behaves.
Got some 9W CREE on order and will see how they go.

Unfortunately the second unused winding only produces 4.8V.
Was thinking of capturing it in a cap.

Thanks to everyone to make this possible!!

Hey all.

Got the SS SSG working, without frying any more parts, thanks SkyWatcher.

Now i was wandering, if anyone could give me a rough idea on frequencies to use when charging/desulfating batteries.
Is there a rule of thumb, or something more accurate, or a site where it is explained more?

The charger has the following properties:
pot at 0 Ohm, 520Hz, input 12V 1.6A, output open 650V, charges old 12V lead acid battery at 12.62V and increasing VERY slowly
pot at 1KOhm, 2003Hz, input 12V 0.4A, output open 120V, charges old 12V lead acid battery at 12.43V.

Battery used is a 12V lead acid battery out of a car, which did not start engine any more and was at 11.86V when I got it.

Did the 1 Ohm test like on the SSG, but can get it only up to 0.75V and the 1/4W resistor starts smoking

Are the lower frequencies better for charging and higher frequencies better for desulfating?
Or do you pick lowest amp draw for highest charge?

Cheers
Martin

Sigh, In regards to 95 lumen video......

To first put aside the shown proven calibration variation (10-15Lu/w) between bulbs and just run with the above shown calibration (for all bulbs ever made), we end up with;

5480 Lux x .0793 = 434.5 Lumens (said 550)
434.5 Lumens / 6.018w = 72.2 Lu/W (said 95)

Above is using only Prof's conversion factor and Prof's shown numbers. This calibration was HIGHLY defended, so I assume it's the same. Again, we know calibration varies in favor of daylights; relative to warm white calibration with incandescent or compacts.

We have also a variation in findings on these bulbs @ 120v (see my post and prof post). He calculated 150 lumens @ 80 Lu/W on A/c. I found 50 Lumens and 46 Lu/W on A/c. Here it's' up to the observer as is most reality.

Still hoping for a needle accuracy instead of a haystack, sigh

At any rate, no big deal to me; since I'm not doing these anymore. Maybe for others, I guess, to save time finding.

Thx

PS - I've not tested any case yet, where more bulbs equals more lu/w. You all know I started with multiples and I really wanted those to work. The smallest found loss ever was appx. 1 Lu/W per extra bulb, however many lights dropped 10 Lu/W with multiples. Again, multiples WILL be brighter than a single of course.

Oh @ Harvester. For desulfation or plate restoration there are a few techniques. I prefer Tekin's patented Pulse-Flex circuitry. These hit the market in 91-92'. Like most you add a short Opposing pulse (reverse polarity) of higher voltage to help remove "build-up" and electrolyte branching. Of course if the separator has been bridged you gain no benefit. Pulse width of reverse is usually of a short duration.

Preliminary results: One bulb 500ma @ 2197 lumens; Six bulbs 800ma @ 1082 lumens per bulb. Looks like Six 2 watt LED bulbs in parallel nearly doubles the watt to lumen ratio over the one bulb. Each of the six bulbs is merely half as bright as the single bulb, but we're getting light at half the price with the cluster! Video will follow tonight. My initial results are sharply reveresed from Peanutbutter29's, and in line with the Professor's.

I'm running 12 volts through the 6 volt center tap of a 12 to 120 volt Radio Shack 3amp transformer. I'm useing Lidmotor's K4zep circuit and generating over 200 volts through the LED bulb cluster. Probably a little different from the other setups. The six 2 volt LED bulb cluster's wired in parallel.

My second test was conducted in complete darkness, and hence the results should be more reliable. I held the Lux meter sensor directly on the 2 watt LED bulb for all the readings, and shielded the single bulb for measurement.

1 & 8 bulbs: 30,900 Lu/ @ 575ma draw for a single bulb;
6,600 x 8 = 52,800 Lu/ @ 800ma draw for eight bulbs.

Eight 2 watt 120 volt LED'S, and a single bulb lux meter and amp draw comparisons resulted in a gain of 13 lux meter units per milliamp for the total light from the eight bulbs, compared to the measurements for one. One can see at a glimpse that the overall illumination nearly doubles with a tiny power increase of only 25%, when the additional 7 bulb cluster's added.

I think PhysicsProf and I are getting these positive results through the use of low wattage bulbs! My hypothisis involves frequency acting like amperage in the kilohertz range. I believe the additional bulbs generate their extra light from this free source of power!

@Allen Burgess,

Rather interesting observation you made. If you took a clear plastic cover and frosted the inside so you couldn't tell how many bulbs were inside, would you say the cover would be 'brighter' with the single bulb inside or the cluster of bulbs at half the brightness? This would go towards the 'quality' or effectiveness of luminance.

Kudos to Prof and Peanutbutter for their efforts, however, showing the results using a laboratory unstandard voltage (17v) from a power supply as shown in Prof's video brings us no closer to better understanding. All tests should be at a specific voltage from a real world source (battery) to get the most understandable results because there are other factors that may have to be taken into account such as quality of light (brightness) from the power source, current drain of the source, sustainability of level of light, etc.

Thanks.

Using bleach sand / copper filling bandage and aluminum foil initial v 1.1 v dc


totoalas

Super Joule Ringer Running on Home Made Battery 180612 - YouTube