Thanks Lidmotor
It will run a 0.5 w led lamp at 180 ma w/o load 240 ma
1 w lamp 270 ma full brightness
it will not light 10 series 0.5 w
transistor temp 27 deg C
cheers

totoalas

CFL lid Darlington minus trigger - YouTube
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Lidmotor's Darlington Ringer minus Trigger - YouTube

Hi folks, Hi minoly, thanks for the reply. So all those small black diodes, looks like 8 of them soldered to a rail, are those the collector diodes.
I thought those were the base/emitter diodes, or do you not have base/emitter diodes in your setup, thanks.
I finished my multi-strand coil today, it has:
7-23awg coil strands @ 4.6 ohms per strand.
ferrite core-5/8" diameter X 3" long, taken from audio crossovers.
nylon ties to keep it together.
Next step is trying to get enough parts for it. Here is a pic.



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peace love light
tyson

Great developments there Lidmotor. The run along of Darlington's gives a few thoughts on ramping a lot of circuits.

Been working at low voltages with Seth's flyback circuit. The wireless output is really good at 3V (in fact 3.24V when measured). 360mA is a bit high, but the sparks and lighting are surprising with this sort of thing. Easily about the strongest and longest streamers i've made at such voltages.
Here's the vid just uploaded: 3V flyback - wireless, 1 wire + sparks - YouTube

Excellent results for 3 volts. What model flyback are you using?

Aside from the cap diode, the only changes I made to the patent:

I left out the CB diodes and used neons, I used 1n914's EB, and mje13007g (it's 7g)
I'm also getting it to work with the MJL21194's

Joule Ringer!

The closer you can get to zero impedance on the charge side the better...
same old BM2 stuff... :-)
play with that cap and different size pot and wattage this will all depend on your battery, coil, core. I'm close to getting it to work on the 3PM kit with smaller batteries 3.6Ah with that blue translucent 7Ah on the back. 1:1 is easy, getting past that is tough. the batteries are part of JB's ckt which is a large part of why it is not just an Armstrong oscillator (or however far back you decide to go :-)

IMHO

Patrick

@Xee2.

Running the bulbs serially causes the bulbs to dim as additional bulbs are connected. The parallel approach permits them to stay lit at equal brightness together. Parallel wireing appears to work markedly better then serial with this circuit. Lidmotor got the same result.

Thanks. That is good to know. I wonder why LaserSaber put his bulbs in series.

Hi Minoly
Is it possible to provide a sketch on your modified charger plus parts list so we can replicate as I am a newbie to electronics

Joule ringer + flip flop inverter + Minoly charger = Stand alone PS @ home

thanks

totoalas

@All
There is an excellent replication of the "French Flip Flop" inverter shown on Youtube by Magnetman. He basically took what I did with the design and greatly enhanced it. He replaced the rheostat power control with a simple voltage regulator circuit that eliminated the heat problem that I had. The inverter is powered by a simple solar system also which makes this setup more like what Lasersaber is doing. When the next power outage happens he is one guy who will not be in the dark and will still be able to run small AC devices using this device.

Great little inverter.MOV - YouTube

@totolas
It seems that "super efficiency" is what we are all after here. All these devices are heading towards that goal. We just have to keep working on it at.



Lidmotor

Hi Lid,
Lidmotor's flip flop replication 051211 - YouTube
As long as people like you wants a free energy world then we can go back to our simple lives to concentrate more on food and health for survival in third world countries where 75 % OF THEIR EARNINGS ARE CONSUMED BY HIGH ENERGY COST OF LIVING

THANKS
totoalas

The bulbs are drawing minimal power in series. Lasersaber's setup delivers maximum efficiency, but the bulbs won't light to full brightness. Magnetman has a small voltage regulator in place of Lidmotor's rheostat to turn the parallel intensity down with less heat loss. That may be the best possible arrangement.

Sorry I just assume everyone looking into this has put in their basic 20 runs into a real battery.

you might want to start here then:

Bedini_Monopole3 : Bedini_Monopole3

One has to learn what it takes to charge a battery this way in order to get it to work, the energy will not end up in the battery if it is not understood what it takes to get it there.

I do not feel comfortable posting JB's patent maybe others here will. I have described it perfectly. His patent is online, search under Google patents.

please do not feel I am giving the run around. you really just need to see where the charge battery goes the way xee has drawn it w/o the L2, do the runs, and you're home free...

again maybe some one else can draw it up...



Patrick

Hi folks, Hi minoly, thanks for the reply and information, you must be reading my mind, as i was going to draw up a circuit diagram for totoalas and another alternative that works well also for me.
That 1n914 emitter/base diode is also called 1n4148 from the shack. Makes sense that I can't see them in your video, they are very small diodes.
peace love light
tyson

@Xee2 - the flyback is a Samsung FCK-14B2. Came from an old 14" or 15" monitor. It's relatively small compared to most, but must have had a light life. Just a salvage junker. Instead of connecting a load back around to the flyback pins, we can use some Tesla tower tricks, of needle end breakouts and balancing with clip leads. This morning I knocked the needle croc lead near to the transistor heatsink and sparks really flew. About an inch and continuous from 3 places. Being as that heatsink is where the Collector goes directly on to, it didn't seem a good idea to let it carry on. But, it was sending out the signals to the flyback, which generated HV back to that pin that was sending out the signals in the first place ! Cool things these flybacks.
Interestingly, it doesn't seem to prefer higher voltages. The squeal increases, but not a lot changes at the output end and it detunes to a slightly different pot position

Hi folks, Hi totoalas, here is a circuit diagram of the Bedini SSG solid state radiant charger.
I will post later the other charger circuit that I have been using for some time now and will also post bedinis other solid state version, since I'm on a roll, hehe.



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peace love light
tyson

Thanks. I use 1/4" fuel tubing around the pins to prevent arcing between pins.

Hi folks, Here is the lasersaber/minoly mod for the SSG circuit.



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peace love light
tyson

edit: had to move the base diode back and place a base resistor at first transistor. Now it looks right.
I fired up my setup, though with only two strands for now and it is working as minoly has said, though I'm using a 1uf-250volt capacitor instead of 10uf. It is drawing 180 milliamps with the 2 coil strands, though I have another to use. It is charging well even with just the two strands so far. Also, I am using 1kohm base resistors instead of 100ohm.

Thanks Sky Minoly and all
did miss the diode in my shopping list so I can start again next week as my day off comes to a clos

thanks

totoalas

Very close
Good catch on the 100 ohm base resistor.

Also, the trigger needs to go to primary pos instead of neg. It works the way you have it, I just happen to have it hooked up like a joule thief/JB’s solid state.

I would put the neon’s EC just in case… especially for those who are new to the JB energizers. The transistors will pop and release their special smoke on one small mistake otherwise .

Not sure if this matters… the pot and 100ohm resistor in parallel with the cap are 2watts. The 100’s at the bases are ¼ watts. I just measured the wire, they are 3.6 ohms each. The spool is 3 inch high with ¾ inch diameter. Again, not sure if any of this makes any difference – just throwing it all out there… the caps on front and back are 3300uf 350v each.
I think smaller lower imp will work better, these are what I have on hand.


Patrick

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12V 60A car battery , maybe dead? - Overunity

this link does not work for me, what is the title of the thread and under what category?
thanks,
Patrick

PS their site is extremely slow bogged down - or just me?

Patrick etc.,
This thread is going wonderfully far afield. I'm loving the different variants being explored.

I took Blackchisel's schematic of the Bedini SS-SSG that you referenced and tried to see if I could expand it to a multi-coil setup.
In all my experimentation, expanding an SS-SSG to multiple coils with just one trigger has been a bit of an issue.
I've looked at a lot of setups and this is by far the best.
Patrick, thanks for opening my mind!
Using the Bedini / Welcome to Renaissance Charge - SSG PCBs. Multiple coils can be added with just one trigger.
The boards/coils can be chained.

I made a video showing this.
SS SSG setup can be expanded.mov - YouTube

Does anyone have any thoughts about the signal variation between the two coils?

They seem to sync up at the sweet spot?

The 18 gauge wire requires (as BlackChisel shows in his schematic) a 20K resistor from the master coil B to C and a 10K from the B to E, to oscillate without allowing too much current to be used.
The system gets hot at half of those value and runs too fast at twice those values.

The system shows what Patrick confirmed about the SS-SSG charging 6 big batteries from one small one.

Didn't John Bedini have independent testing to confirm he was fully charging 12 batteries from 1?

I thought I added the Blackchisel schematic to the end of my vid but it seems to have dropped off. It was referenced a couple of pages back.
Here it is again. ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Thanks to all for this very dynamic thread.
Stephen

Feb 18, 2008 ... 12V 60A car battery , maybe dead? ... The battery is a 12volt 60Ah Varta

NICE Stephen!
I like all your explanations it cleans it up.
It's crazy how simple this is.

well almost...

I also forgot all about the extra resistors on the first "trigger" transistor when I was looking at Tyson's drawing...
It will be nice to have JB's comparator ckt added to this.

Patrick

Thank you for your comprehensive response.Nuff said.

Best regards,

Ged.

I just bought and sucessfully built a $7 Velleman Intermitant LED flasher circuit from Radio Shack. This circuit is identical to the first part of the "French Inverter" astable multi vibrator circuit. The componants included are: 4 resistors, 2 capacitors, 2 transisters and two trimmer pots that wire in series with the high value resistors. These two trimmer pots allow one to vary the transistor base tank resistance and control the frequency of the intermitant flashes, so exactly 50 or 60 Hz can be dialed in conveniently.

Can anyone tell me how I should go about connecting the Mosfets to the LED electrodes, to wire the Velleman circuit like the "French Inverter"? This addition should allow me to fine tune the inverter Hertz with a very high degree of precision, and help maximize efficiency! I think just one 1K pot wired in between the positive rail and the junction of the high value resistors, in the "French Inverter circuit, would help the same way. The addition of the voltage regulator makes a very versatile inverter, capable of running European and Japanese equipment in a broad range of power settings. I don't think anything this sophisticated is available in the market place currently.

Hi folks, I have setup a four battery parallel charge bank for testing, each are 12volt-7AH-SLA and using one 12 volt-7AH-sla primary battery to charge them.
I hope to be able to fully charge these with the one battery.
A first partial test charging two has proved promising using my ferrite core, 7 strand coil, though only using three strands, one trigger at the moment, until i get more transistors.
This setup for some reason is performing better than any setup I've built previously.
Usually in past experiments, when using an identical voltage source battery, it tended to be a more fluffy charge.
Though this setup provides solid charging, as a 12volt taillight bulb as a load test proves, the voltage bounces right back to its previous level and this result from only 23awg magnet wire.
Something must have been a bit off with the past radiant spike devices I've built when using identical voltage as a primary source.
peace love light
tyson

Hi Tyson,
Now were going somewhere with your results lol
Just finished my 6 strand 23 awg magnet wire ......

Hi Minoly,
as for the 3300 uf cap , Hope you can give the termination points

in my joule thief with 6 parallel 2n3055 , Im using a triac BT 41 and 2 dc capacitor for fast charging 12 v car battery..... still looking for my old schematic

With solar cell input, can somebody give a rough size / amperes required
In China they sell for Renminbi 1000 for a 24 W solar panel / dc charger for 650

Altrez mentioned 2 18 w solar cells

My load to be used one lcd tv 24 inches one amplifier for audio one computer desk top one lap top home lighting one ceiling fan

cheers

totoalas

totoalas,

Can you list the watt usage for each device you want to power please.

-Altrez

Hi Altrez
Below are some rough estimates minimum load that are currently available for connection to the solar panel / battery
Denon Amplifier 50 watts
Lenovo Desktop + 18 inc lcd display around 15 watts
LCD TV 20 watts
Lighting 30 watts
Ceiling fan 30 watts
lap top 10 watts
all are 220 v ac 50/60 hz

thanks for your support as I am eager to buy the 24 watt panel but in doubt
for the size and quantity
I have two car batteries 12 v 70Ah that will be used .....

thanks again

totoalas