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  #61  
Old 01-01-2011, 10:17 PM
snowinidaho snowinidaho is offline
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Another idea to seal lid?

Thank you Jetijs for sharing.

Would it be possible to use a copper/asbestos head gasket seal as a cheaper alternative to machining the grove and wedge? I run a simple 6-1 slow speed Lister that has these head gaskets with a 5" hole opening. Would the whole be large enough to do the necessary cleaning of ash at the end of a run? Your ring and lid appear to be about 3/4 to 1 inch thick each?

Also I noticed the lid exposed while running. Are you able to insulate the top lid to save some of the heat from escaping?

What is your indicator the product is complete in the reactor? Is the gas flame burned out tell you?

I too am eager to build such a device. Thank you for your kindness.

Andrew
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  #62  
Old 01-01-2011, 10:27 PM
dutchdivco dutchdivco is offline
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jetjs

Kudos,Kudos, Kudos!! Great job and thread!!!Didn't answer; how do you get the O2 out? Does it just get used up early in the heating up process?
And, wondering if exhaust heat could be used, say from a diesel generator. Then the gen. could be used to make electricity.Jim
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  #63  
Old 01-01-2011, 10:50 PM
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Jetijs Jetijs is offline
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Originally Posted by bugler View Post
Jetijs thanks again for your information sharing. I know I am asking like there is no tomorrow.

Could you elaborate on how you would make the condensers so you have diesel and gasoline separated when they are being created?

Let's say that you want to cancel electricity and gas in your home. How would you use the diesel to have electricity, warm your house and your water?

Could the vegetable oil pump burner be also used to burn HHO (I am thinking in having a HHO machine some day).

Thanks. You are very generous helping those like me without experience at all.
I will draw a small picture of how the condensers should look and work later today. For using this fuel I would buy me a 10kW diesel generator to provide all the electricity to my house. Heating would be done using a diesel burner that would heat water that then flows through radiators in my home. It is obviously not practical to heat your home with electricity from the diesel generator, that would be not very efficient. That is all you really need to go off grid - plenty of plastic waste, a pyrolysis device, a diesel generator and diesel burner HHO wont work with oil or diesel burners, they are intended for fuels with slow burning speeds, HHO burns very very fast.

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Originally Posted by everwiser View Post
I thought of one more question, Jetijs. How difficult is it to clean out the leftover charcoal/byproducts? Do they have a tendency to stick to your container or does it come out fairly easily? I'm just wondering if there needs to be some kind of interior coating or alternate way to break the char away from the cylinder walls. Thank you for any information.
No extra coating is needed. If the process has completed fully, the charcoal on the cylinder walls will be dry and one tap with a hammer on the container will make them fall to the bottom. Very easy and fast. Also there is usually very small quantities of charcoal left, maybe a kilogram at most for every 25 kilograms of plastic, of course that depends on the plastic type and if there is any other materials in the mix along with plastic.

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Originally Posted by snowinidaho View Post
Thank you Jetijs for sharing.

Would it be possible to use a copper/asbestos head gasket seal as a cheaper alternative to machining the grove and wedge? I run a simple 6-1 slow speed Lister that has these head gaskets with a 5" hole opening. Would the whole be large enough to do the necessary cleaning of ash at the end of a run? Your ring and lid appear to be about 3/4 to 1 inch thick each?

Also I noticed the lid exposed while running. Are you able to insulate the top lid to save some of the heat from escaping?

What is your indicator the product is complete in the reactor? Is the gas flame burned out tell you?

I too am eager to build such a device. Thank you for your kindness.

Andrew
I don't know about copper, probably would work fine, asbestos works good, but it is hard to get nowadays. Russians use it for their tire pyrolysis devices with good success. 5" opening should be enough to clean the charcoal out or fill the reactor. The ring and lid is 10mm thick, thinner material would deform the lid as the bolts are tightened, because even when the wedge is fully inside the groove, there is still a small gap between the ring and the lid.
The top part of the lid can be insulated when the device is running, we just leave it open to see any leaking between seals or poor welds.
When the process starts, at first only the reactor and the lid heats up, as the plastic melts into boiling liquid and starts to evaporate, the condensers start to warm up also. A good sign that the process is ending is when the condensers start to cool down. When they are cool to touch, or even at room temperature, the process should be finished. There is a small outlet valve on the bottom of my condenser which I use to drain the fuel, this can be done also while the device is running. You will see that in the middle of the process a certain amount of fuel can be drained in certain amount of time. When the process is ending, less and less fuel will be coming out at the same time intervals
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  #64  
Old 01-01-2011, 11:00 PM
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Jetijs Jetijs is offline
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Originally Posted by dutchdivco View Post
Kudos,Kudos, Kudos!! Great job and thread!!!Didn't answer; how do you get the O2 out? Does it just get used up early in the heating up process?
And, wondering if exhaust heat could be used, say from a diesel generator. Then the gen. could be used to make electricity.Jim
Hi
Yes, I forgot that. When the reactor starts to heat up, the air inside the reactor will increase its volume and most of it will be expelled, then as the plastic starts to melt, the remaining air will be used up in the process. So that has never been a problem
Exhaust gasses can be used for a diesel generator, but there is not much of the gas. I suppose that in order to run a say 3kW diesel generator, enough gas would only be produced with a unit 2x the size of ours. Also at first there is small amounts of gas, then it peaks and remains at that output for some time and at the end it goes down again. Not very reliable for a diesel generator. But if you use the produced fuel as main fuel for the diesel generator and attach the gas outlet to the air input of the generator so that air mixes with the gas and then with the fuel in the combustion chamber, it will aid the combustion and the generator will use less fuel. You will be using the gas up fully and it will work reliably
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  #65  
Old 01-02-2011, 12:43 AM
avro539 avro539 is offline
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Hi Jetijs..Thanks for the reply...Your plastic converter has solved a problem about the cost of running the generator...probally about 30 minutes every 3 days to clean out..refill and setup per batch..I still have to find out how much diesel the generator will use per hr .. its 15 HP......I will be going ahead this year with the installation of the 10KVA generator..The generator will be both 415v 3 phase and 3 240v outlets with a sine modulator so we dont have problems with voltage spikes...makes it computer safe.....I'm going to install a time switch which will be able to switch mains on and off and start the generator automaticly...
While the generator is running would the exhaust manifold heat be hot enough to use as the secondary heating circuit condenser to process the gasoline and refine the diesel ....Bugler has been asking a lot of the questions I was wanting to know ....looking forward to the condenser drawings...Avro
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  #66  
Old 01-02-2011, 01:12 AM
avro539 avro539 is offline
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Running a diesel generator

Hi Jetijs....Have a reply from the agent that supplies generators..it uses 1.5 liters per hour depending on the load....with a gas add to the intake manifold it probally would reduce the diesel comsumption...Avro
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  #67  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:22 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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What an excellent thread. Ill be trying this in the next few weeks.

The only thing I could add is to use the waste heat to power a sterling engine and generate a little electricity too.
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  #68  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:57 AM
bugler bugler is offline
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Jetijs could you please tell your friend to take a close picture of the interior of the external white box with the thermostate, etc?

The tank is qutie thick (external tank, insulation, bricks) so how and where is the thermocouple set?
What material is the insulation between brikcs and external tank?

What I don't see is why the cage is so big. Wouldn't be enough to have just the upper part of the cage that is resting on the top of the tank and holding the reactor?

Regarding the use of a generators they are too noisy for a flat. In a house with a little garden is ok cause it can be placed outside (even buried). Any other more quiet way?

Thanks.

This thread is so interesting!!!
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Last edited by bugler; 01-02-2011 at 10:48 AM.
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  #69  
Old 01-02-2011, 06:07 PM
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Jetijs Jetijs is offline
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Hi bugler
I have trouble with my computer so no drawings, but the thing is that in order to separate the diesel from gasoline you need two condensers one right after another. The first one that is just after the reactor should be kept at about 120-140 degree celisus as the diesel boiling point is around 150 degrees. You need to keep it hot but not too hot so that it does not evaporate. If it is hot, then it will stay liwuid, but anything that boils at lower temperatures will evaporate, that includes gasoline which will then condense in the second condenser which is not heated. This way you should be able to separate the fuels. This still needs to be tested, but should work fine. Temperatures might be a bit different to some degree, but that is a matter of testing.

If you look at the lid in my cad drawing, you will see that it has an outlet and another small hole in that a small metal tube is welded or hermetically bolted in. The bottom part of that tube is shut. This is used for measuring the vapor temperature, you just take the thermocouple and slide it in the tube and it will take temperature readings from there.

Yes, generators are noisy, but you can put it in a separate shed and insulate the walls with glassfieber insulation, should kill the noise nicely

The space between the bricks and outer drum should be stuffed with the same glassfieber insulation.

Thanks,
Jetijs
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  #70  
Old 01-02-2011, 06:35 PM
dutchdivco dutchdivco is offline
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Exhaust heat

Am wondering if exhaust heat could be used from a diesel engine, as the heat source for the processor. I have a diesel step van. Thinking use a gas water heater, remove gas lines, burners, top and bottom of outer shell. Now i have a 4' tank, shaped like a donut in cross section, and insulated.Mount it vertically at the back of my truck, run the exhaust up thru the center 'donut hole', and out the roof.Fill the tank with plastic.Already has a seperate 'vent line' at the top of the tank, I could use to pipe off vapors to condensers,and a 'spigot' at the bottom, to drain 'diesel fuel. etc. (Or am I misunderstanding; is all the diesel fuel recovered from the condensers, with only ash left in the tank?
On Buglers question; Why is cage so long? Another way to ask is "Why is tank so short? I realise you went with off the shelf coponents, but seems like tank could be taller, to go down closer to bottom of 'kiln'.Would increase capacity, of coarse.
Bugler; Research 'sound proofing'. It sounds crazy, but it works; A double walled box, with the inner wall 4"-6" from the outer wall.Nothing but air in between.Drill or cut 1"-2" holes in both the inner and outer wall, placed so they DON'T line up with each other.You won't believe how much it muffles the sound. Jim
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  #71  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:20 AM
snowinidaho snowinidaho is offline
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Hello Jetijs,

Thank you for your so many replies to others as well as myself.

As I was studying the short movie, I noticed the condensing side was slightly modified from the still photos at the beginning of the thread. Did adding three separate chambers allow for the diesel to separate from the gasoline? Were the products similar in all three vessels? Would possibly just insulating the first condenser chamber allow enough retained heat to condense the diesel yet continue to vaporize the gas to a non-insulated condenser?

I'll be calling our "big" city to find recycled plastic tomorrow. Thank you loads for your contributions.

Andrew
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  #72  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:11 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Fractional Distilation

To separate the different fuels we need fractional distillation.

If we use the fuel to power a diesel generator, could we use the hot water in the cooling system as a method to keep the first separator at 90 degrees? Would this be hot enough to fraction off the major component in gasoline?

Fuel Boiling Point (oF)
Acetaldehyde 70
Acetone 134
Acetylene -119.2
Benzene 176.2
Butylene 21.2
Ethyl Alcohol 172
Ethan -127.5
Ethylene -154.7
Fuels Oil No.1 304 - 574
Gasoline 100 - 400
IsoButane 10.9
Isobutene 19.6
Isopropyl alcohol 181
Iso-Octane 243.9
IsoPentane 82.2
Kerosine 304 - 574
Methane (Natural Gas) -258.7
Methyl Alcohol 149
n-Butane 31.1
n-Heptane 209.1
n-Hexane 155.7
n-Octane 258.3
n-Pentane 97.0
n-Pentene 86.0
Naphthalene 424.4
NeoPentane 49.1
NeoHexane 121.5
Propane -43.8
Propylene -53.9
Triptane 177.6
Toluene 321.1
Xylene 281.1.

Of course we are getting more sophisticated now which does add cost to the basic device. I think Im getting ahead of myself.

Of course with all this heat around some of it could be used for domestic heating in cooler climates.
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  #73  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:41 AM
snowinidaho snowinidaho is offline
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I have a question about the excess gas

Helo Jetijs,

On your set up, what is the btu amount that is being exhausted into the air? I was trying to figure out how many btu's I would need to supplement in additional heating. I thought perhaps if I place a 10,000 btu heater to start the process and then as it progresses I would have the additional torch to make up the difference necessary to heat the reactor. I thought to just place enough fuel in the heater to run for the 4 hours or the appropriate amount of time necessary to finish the batch.

How do you do the end to make your torch?

Many thanks,

Andrew
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  #74  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:48 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Do the molecules of the fuel oil break down every time it is boiled in the reactor?
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  #75  
Old 01-03-2011, 03:25 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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Further research into Gasoline production suggests that the major component can be fractioned off at 95c+: however this will be a fuel that is prone to pre-ignition (Dieseling) in engines. So if this was used in a normal gasoline engine you would have to alter the timing of the spark and may experience a change in power output.

A diesel engine can run on almost any oil although some will be better than others.

Cracking PE will give mainly paraffins (Kerosene is a paraffin). A diesel engine will run on this when it is warmed. The paraffin wax can be separated out by cooling and straining though it is not absolutely required. (meting point is 60c, boiling point is 370C)

If putting the paraffins back into the reactor breaks down the molecules further then more petroleum products will result and some sort of fractioning will become more important and viable.

Large diesels run on heated bunker oils with little problem.

Smaller diesels have been run on cooking oils without any cracking although the power is lower.

Maybe the best compromise is a two stage cracking process with three fractioning vessels.

That is the product of the first vessel, held at a temperature of 275c be fed back into the reactor, the second vessel is held at 100c to produce kerosene and the third at room temperature will collect petroleum distillates in the gasoline region.

I hope I got all these figures right hehe, it came from wikipedia. Iím sure someone in the petroleum industry could give us better info.
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  #76  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowinidaho View Post
Hello Jetijs,

Thank you for your so many replies to others as well as myself.

As I was studying the short movie, I noticed the condensing side was slightly modified from the still photos at the beginning of the thread. Did adding three separate chambers allow for the diesel to separate from the gasoline? Were the products similar in all three vessels? Would possibly just insulating the first condenser chamber allow enough retained heat to condense the diesel yet continue to vaporize the gas to a non-insulated condenser?

I'll be calling our "big" city to find recycled plastic tomorrow. Thank you loads for your contributions.

Andrew
Hi Andrew, yes, we modified the condensers putting three together in hope to searate diesel from gasoline, but the condensers were not heated and it did not work. Might be that only insulating the first condenser will do the trick, but it would not be reliabe as the temperatures need to be kept constant.

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Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
To separate the different fuels we need fractional distillation.

If we use the fuel to power a diesel generator, could we use the hot water in the cooling system as a method to keep the first separator at 90 degrees? Would this be hot enough to fraction off the major component in gasoline?
This needs to be tested

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Originally Posted by snowinidaho View Post
Helo Jetijs,

On your set up, what is the btu amount that is being exhausted into the air? I was trying to figure out how many btu's I would need to supplement in additional heating. I thought perhaps if I place a 10,000 btu heater to start the process and then as it progresses I would have the additional torch to make up the difference necessary to heat the reactor. I thought to just place enough fuel in the heater to run for the 4 hours or the appropriate amount of time necessary to finish the batch.

How do you do the end to make your torch?

Many thanks,

Andrew

I have no way of measureing the BTU's. The torch is nade of a simple 10mm diameter copper pipe with a steel or copper mesh attached to the birning end. The gas needs to go through the mesh, but no flames can go back through the mesh, because the burn rate is very slow.

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Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
Do the molecules of the fuel oil break down every time it is boiled in the reactor?
I don't think that there is an additional mollecule breaking if the fuels are boiled again, as long as there is only the boiling temperature of the fuel and nothing higher. Boiling just separates the fuels, like alcohol is separated from water at 80 degrees which is the boiling point of alcohol

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Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post
Further research into Gasoline production suggests that the major component can be fractioned off at 95c+: however this will be a fuel that is prone to pre-ignition (Dieseling) in engines. So if this was used in a normal gasoline engine you would have to alter the timing of the spark and may experience a change in power output.

A diesel engine can run on almost any oil although some will be better than others.

Cracking PE will give mainly paraffins (Kerosene is a paraffin). A diesel engine will run on this when it is warmed. The paraffin wax can be separated out by cooling and straining though it is not absolutely required. (meting point is 60c, boiling point is 370C)

If putting the paraffins back into the reactor breaks down the molecules further then more petroleum products will result and some sort of fractioning will become more important and viable.

Large diesels run on heated bunker oils with little problem.

Smaller diesels have been run on cooking oils without any cracking although the power is lower.

Maybe the best compromise is a two stage cracking process with three fractioning vessels.

That is the product of the first vessel, held at a temperature of 275c be fed back into the reactor, the second vessel is held at 100c to produce kerosene and the third at room temperature will collect petroleum distillates in the gasoline region.

I hope I got all these figures right hehe, it came from wikipedia. Iím sure someone in the petroleum industry could give us better info.
Thanks for this info Yes PE will give mostly paraffin which is still great for using in your diesel burned, you only need to heat it a bit. If this paraffin is put through the process again, about half of it will become clear liquid fuel and other half will be a bit denser paraffin that will now melt at higher temperatures. Another time through the process will make almost all contents of the reactor into liquid fuel, but the remaining paraffin will now be just as candle wax, will burn the same and smell the same. So you can also make your own candles
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  #77  
Old 01-03-2011, 08:57 PM
dutchdivco dutchdivco is offline
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Clarification

So, when the process is complete, ALL I recover from the heating chamber, (the propane tank in your model) is ash. All the fuel is recovered from the condensing tanks, correct? Deisel from the first, warmed tank, gasoline from the second, and the water bubbler, which also puts out a small amount of flamable gas, which can be discharged into the intake of an ICE.Is that right?
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:29 PM
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Sorry to ask the same several times.

How do the coils go from the inside of the white ring to the external plastic box? Where is the hole or holes?

I think we have more or less all the information to make a prototype but as Jetijs is going to do an improved device which uses the diesel to make the heating it makes sense to wait for that improved prototype? What do you guys think?
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dutchdivco View Post
So, when the process is complete, ALL I recover from the heating chamber, (the propane tank in your model) is ash. All the fuel is recovered from the condensing tanks, correct? Deisel from the first, warmed tank, gasoline from the second, and the water bubbler, which also puts out a small amount of flamable gas, which can be discharged into the intake of an ICE.Is that right?


Correct Except the leftover material in the reactor is not ash, but charcoal that can be compressed into briquettes and burned later, or used in some other way.

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Old 01-03-2011, 10:04 PM
snowinidaho snowinidaho is offline
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A question on plastic types.

Good day to you Jetijs,

I called various plastic sellers in my "big" city to find who recycles the stuff. So far I find no one who shreds plastic here. Of course I can by new plastic in pellets but this added to my confusion as one company stocks over 200 types. I asked for a polypropylene or polyethylene plastic with only pure hydrogen and carbon. He did not know what fits that bill. Sadly, at this point I don't know either. He said he would call his supplier on the east coast and get back to me tomorrow.

The big city waste collectors pick up type 2 plastic, they have it listed as (high density polyethylene - commonly used for milk, cider and water jugs, as well as detergent, fabric softener and bleach). Would this by a "good" type of plastic but just need to be ran twice because of the wax?

Thank you kindly,

Andrew
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  #81  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugler View Post
Sorry to ask the same several times.

How do the coils go from the inside of the white ring to the external plastic box? Where is the hole or holes?

I think we have more or less all the information to make a prototype but as Jetijs is going to do an improved device which uses the diesel to make the heating it makes sense to wait for that improved prototype? What do you guys think?
Have a look at this picture:


There you can see a vertical rectangular shaped hole in the barrel, through which the coil wires come out. There are also holes in the brick at that same location, so the wires go through the holes in the bricks, and then through the big rectangular hole in the metal barrel. They have glass fiber sleeves on to insulate them electrically in case they touch the edges of the rectangular hole. The hole is then covered with a thin metal sheet bent in half circle and riveted to the barrel, the wires are pulled out on the upper side and the remaining space is stuffed with glass fiber insulation. Hope this helps
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  #82  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:34 PM
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Good day to you Jetijs,

I called various plastic sellers in my "big" city to find who recycles the stuff. So far I find no one who shreds plastic here. Of course I can by new plastic in pellets but this added to my confusion as one company stocks over 200 types. I asked for a polypropylene or polyethylene plastic with only pure hydrogen and carbon. He did not know what fits that bill. Sadly, at this point I don't know either. He said he would call his supplier on the east coast and get back to me tomorrow.

The big city waste collectors pick up type 2 plastic, they have it listed as (high density polyethylene - commonly used for milk, cider and water jugs, as well as detergent, fabric softener and bleach). Would this by a "good" type of plastic but just need to be ran twice because of the wax?

Thank you kindly,

Andrew
Hi Andrew
If you could get a list of those plastic pellet types, I think we could find out what they are made out of and if they are usable for this purpose. What were the prices of the pellets? Aren't they too expensive to be a viable source for making diesel? High density polyethylene (HDPE) works good, and the paraffin is still a good fuel, it just needs a heated fuel tank for the fuel to be used in the ordinary way I am not sure, but I think there are some cheap catalyst materials that you can put in along with HDPE which will help to crack the fuel down more thus solving the paraffin problem. Will see what I can find out.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:56 PM
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Other fuel options?

Good day Jetijs,

For a thousand dollars a ton I can buy some pellets from one recycling company, but then I have to drive 250 miles to get it. Granted, these are quality pellets they recycle. Apparently I do not live in a region that has the less expensive product. Living in north Idaho I do have access to wood shavings. I can get trailer loads of cedar shavings (telephone pole scraps) for just the labor in my back. Is something like this still viable straight as it comes? Would I need a hotter temperature to make this work? What if I filled the reactor with the wood shavings and then filled the rest with used motor oil, would I then be able to make this work? Is the temperature lower for motor oil? If I used the cedar shavings would I need to separate the bark from the splinters and only use one or the other. I realize you may not be able to answer these questions in full confidence but any gut feelings you have will be helpful.

Thank you loads,

Andrew
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:01 PM
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Hi Andrew
I don't know about biomass yet, some experiments need to be done in this area, but we will be able to do that only in spring, when it is warmer. As far as I know, if you will fill the container with woor shavings, you will gave a gasifier, that will produce lots of burnable gas and, some alcohols and bio oil. But I don't know about the quantities or how practical that would be. Experiments will show
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:10 PM
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biomass

Andrew,

If you have unlimited supply of wood chips - gasify them to run a generator,
use the heat to heat water and/or air and when you have the charred
biomass, use that to put into growing soil (biochar) to increase plant
growth.

I personally wouldn't use the charcoal from plastic for a soil additive but
the biomass method has been proven out for quite a while.

You can get oil and gas from the wood chips but that is optional - a
good quality gasifier stove will reburn just about everything anyway.

You can see more on biochar in the Agriculture forum here and check out
Robert Flanagan's info.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:11 PM
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Aaron Aaron is offline
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biomass

Andrew,

If you have unlimited supply of wood chips - gasify them to run a generator,
use the heat to heat water and/or air and when you have the charred
biomass, use that to put into growing soil (biochar) to increase plant
growth.

I personally wouldn't use the charcoal from plastic for a soil additive but
the biomass method has been proven out for quite a while.

You can get oil and gas from the wood chips but that is optional - a
good quality gasifier stove will reburn just about everything anyway.

You can see more on biochar in the Agriculture forum here and check out
Robert Flanagan's info.

If I can find plastic cheap enough here, I'd use Jetijs' method for turning
plastic to diesel. I'm in Spokane.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:50 PM
snowinidaho snowinidaho is offline
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Posts: 10
Hello Jetijs and Aaron,

Thank you for your kind responses. Since I own a diesel generator and my only vehicle runs on diesel I have been drawn to want to make diesel. The gasifier is something I would need to research to learn. I do not yet know how to do this.

Aaron, Spokane was the "big" city near me that I had been searching. I found large plants in Yakima, Tacoma, Portland area, etc. Spokane is big and surely there could be many people grinding on a small scale; I hope you can find something. What I found is that local companies bale their plastic and ship it elsewhere. To buy and or make equipment to shred plastic bought locally is another option; I was just trying to keep things simple. I will keep trying.

Thank you both graciously,

Andrew
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:44 PM
dutchdivco dutchdivco is offline
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shredded plastic and tank filling

Was wondering, and since you have seen/handled the shredded plastic; Could it be put into the tank, using vacuum? i.e a 3" gate valve at the top of the tank. Another at the bottom of the tank, with a screen above it. Hook a shop-vac to the bottom valve, open valve and turn on shop-vac. Hook a flexible hose, (like a vacuum cleaner or pool cleaner hose).Open top` valve, and push hose down into a 'tote' or barrel of the shredded plastic.
The bottom valve and shop vac could also be used to recover the charcoal ash afterwards, if I removed the screen from the bottom valve.Possible?
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchdivco View Post
Was wondering, and since you have seen/handled the shredded plastic; Could it be put into the tank, using vacuum? i.e a 3" gate valve at the top of the tank. Another at the bottom of the tank, with a screen above it. Hook a shop-vac to the bottom valve, open valve and turn on shop-vac. Hook a flexible hose, (like a vacuum cleaner or pool cleaner hose).Open top` valve, and push hose down into a 'tote' or barrel of the shredded plastic.
The bottom valve and shop vac could also be used to recover the charcoal ash afterwards, if I removed the screen from the bottom valve.Possible?
I guess it can be done, shredded plastic is lightweight and the pellet size is small.
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:40 PM
bandido bandido is offline
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Is it possible to use pressed plastic (not shreded)?
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