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  #631  
Old 01-04-2011, 05:37 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbignes5 View Post
What do you think is in water? H2O is two parts hydrogen to one part oxygen. It is an air component that donates it's energy to the aluminum to create the voltage we are seeing. Thats why you are seeing bubbles. Thats what is left after consuming the energy of the air part of water.

bubbles form anyways even if the plates are never connected. i don't see water being consumed, it seems it evaporating instead because i put plastic wrap over the top of one and water vapor started to appear.
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  #632  
Old 01-04-2011, 08:52 PM
Jbignes5 Jbignes5 is offline
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Yes they are..

Quote:
Originally Posted by ibpointless2 View Post
bubbles form anyways even if the plates are never connected. i don't see water being consumed, it seems it evaporating instead because i put plastic wrap over the top of one and water vapor started to appear.
The battery performs no matter if it is used or not. The bubbles will increase as it is being used. Water will always evaporate and we need Air to be exposed to the water to replace the oxygen that is released from use. It is a complex cycle we are trying to setup here.

I have done some more research and I think I have found a viable air type battery. I'll keep you updated once I start experimenting on it. Copper and zinc seem to be the best choice and just plain water. I'm gonna try foils first with cotton separators. We will see what happens....
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  #633  
Old 01-05-2011, 12:15 AM
gravityblock gravityblock is offline
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Originally Posted by Jbignes5 View Post
I have done some more research and I think I have found a viable air type battery. I'll keep you updated once I start experimenting on it. Copper and zinc seem to be the best choice and just plain water. I'm gonna try foils first with cotton separators. We will see what happens....
Copper Zinc Tap Water Fuel Cell

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  #634  
Old 01-05-2011, 03:18 PM
Jbignes5 Jbignes5 is offline
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Yes but...

Thats a good link but what I plan on doing is using foils layered to get the effect. Copper and zinc foils are relatively cheap and I should be able to get a good output better then all the rest. You could think of it like a lifepo setup. Thin cells with many layers of each component.

A clue was dropped by someone in one of the threads that was Russian and for some reason it hit me that this could be the battery of choice. Another alternative to copper could be carbon sheets. But that will be for another time to experiment with.

Let me be clear that there should be no other additive other then water. This is to maintain the condition of the plates so that we can get maximum life out of the battery. But I digress... A small cell would prove this and thats what I plan on doing.
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  #635  
Old 01-06-2011, 01:27 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Originally Posted by Jbignes5 View Post
Thats a good link but what I plan on doing is using foils layered to get the effect. Copper and zinc foils are relatively cheap and I should be able to get a good output better then all the rest. You could think of it like a lifepo setup. Thin cells with many layers of each component.

A clue was dropped by someone in one of the threads that was Russian and for some reason it hit me that this could be the battery of choice. Another alternative to copper could be carbon sheets. But that will be for another time to experiment with.

Let me be clear that there should be no other additive other then water. This is to maintain the condition of the plates so that we can get maximum life out of the battery. But I digress... A small cell would prove this and thats what I plan on doing.


I wouldn't use copper because its soluble, thats why i use aluminum because its non-soluble in water. And plus copper is more expensive too. If you want to know the best metal to use for a battery then try Gold or Platinum, this battery has been using it and it still produces its original voltage. This Battery Has Been Working for 60 Years


Copper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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  #636  
Old 01-06-2011, 12:56 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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I've got some one expanding on the water captret battery idea. This guy has the foil wrapped around the outside not touching anything and he gets some big bubbles.

YouTube - For ibpointless2 Vid001
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  #637  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:43 PM
Jbignes5 Jbignes5 is offline
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hmm

looks like a laden jar to me. Without more information like a very clear video or a description it could be anything.

Also I was playing with the idea that aluminum and carbon sheets would work well. What do you think?
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  #638  
Old 01-09-2011, 04:38 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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I still don't think that the water captret battery is just a mere aluminum air battery. I find that if it was a aluminum air battery then it would be producing more voltage and the other plate of the same metal would not be needed. Plus Aluminum is not the only metal that does it, brass and copper experience it.

I think the water captret battery is merely a electret. If you look at the electret and the water captret you'll see the similarities. A electret is a dielectric material thats between two metal plates. Water, which is a dielectric, has two metal plates too that are separated by the water. Just like a electret the water captrets need to be shorted out when first created so to give it's best charge.

I also think that this electret effect has something to do with why capacitors self charge, because they too have two metal plates separated by a dielectric.

Calling the water captret battery a aluminum air battery is taking the easy way out. I really think there's something special about them, kinds of reminds me of the casimir effect too. I would have believed the air battery idea if not for the fact that my water captret batteries still have clear water and perfect plates after sitting shorted out for months, something a aluminum air battery of the same size could not do.
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  #639  
Old 01-09-2011, 03:10 PM
Jbignes5 Jbignes5 is offline
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I would say you are correct but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ibpointless2 View Post
I still don't think that the water captret battery is just a mere aluminum air battery. I find that if it was a aluminum air battery then it would be producing more voltage and the other plate of the same metal would not be needed. Plus Aluminum is not the only metal that does it, brass and copper experience it.

I think the water captret battery is merely a electret. If you look at the electret and the water captret you'll see the similarities. A electret is a dielectric material thats between two metal plates. Water, which is a dielectric, has two metal plates too that are separated by the water. Just like a electret the water captrets need to be shorted out when first created so to give it's best charge.

I also think that this electret effect has something to do with why capacitors self charge, because they too have two metal plates separated by a dielectric.

Calling the water captret battery a aluminum air battery is taking the easy way out. I really think there's something special about them, kinds of reminds me of the casimir effect too. I would have believed the air battery idea if not for the fact that my water captret batteries still have clear water and perfect plates after sitting shorted out for months, something a aluminum air battery of the same size could not do.
When you use anything then yes it is an aluminum air battery. When you use water it shows less of a current but none the less it is still an aluminum air battery. The air is in the water. It is why it works with everything. Water is the key and air is in water. You have less of an effect but it is none the less an air battery. There are tons of air batteries, just look them up. They use all kinds of materials like copper, iron, magnesium, you name it. The common component is air and that is the key.

If you start to understand that you can do this even with air itself by polarizing the air through high voltage between two plates just like Tesla showed in his own experiments. Thats right just two plates that weigh the same but are of different surface area. This has an amplifying effect as it focuses the energy into a very small collection electrode. The ultimate capacitor made with nothing but plates and air separating them.

The part that rips materials apart is the current. If you use pure voltage there is no eating of the plates material but you need to down convert the high voltage to make it useful. I used to own an air capacitor when I was into CB's. Very handy for matching the antenna to the transmitter. I once matched my heating ducts to the radio and was broadcasting over 75-150 miles and no mismatch between the transmitter and antenna (heater ducts).

Some of this theory is impedance and what is the reflected signal twords the source. In our journey on this earth we have never put two and two together like this before. If you don't have a reflected signal back to the source then there is zero resistance to the flow and consequently it takes very little current to power anything when there is nothing impeding it. Hence why you are seeing your effect.
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  #640  
Old 01-14-2011, 01:54 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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I took some time off from playing with the water captret battery; I could never find a good way to increase the voltage. I'm back at playing with capacitors and playing with the captret setup.

I noticed something interesting about the captret. I've have the captret + and - leads shorted out and my meter connected to the case and the negative lead. As would what anyone one would expect the voltage goes down when it is hooked up to the meter, but when i touch my finger to the case the voltage will start to go up. At first i thought i was grounding it and that caused it to go up, so instead i touched the other end of the alligator clip that is connected to the case and the voltage went down. So Im not grounding it when i touch it, so what could be causing it to increase? At first i thought it was the "human electricity" that i was giving off, but then it hit me. I started to blow my hot air from my mouth on to it, and the voltage started to go up. Just to make sure I heated up my hot glue gun, and placed the side of it where it gets hot on to the top of the capacitor and the voltage started going up. It seems the Captret or better yet capacitors are also thermocouples.

Being a thermocouple it could be gathering the radiant heat that sounds up constantly and this could be the reason also for the self-charging we see in the captret circuits. This thermal couple effect could also be the reason why capacitors manage to have a voltage even when shorted out. But this is not that surprising when you start considering current thermal couples and how they function. You see normal thermal couples rely on two DISIMILAR metals while the capacitor has to similar metals but yet still gives off electricity. This also goes along with what Ive been saying about the water captret batteries; even though they have similar metal they're giving off electricity. It also seems that i may have answered my own question about the water captret battery on how to get more voltage, just add more heat! It seems there is no mystery when it comes to the captret and its extra energy; its getting its extra energy from the radiant heat that surrounds us constantly. As for my water captret batteries, they're thermocouples. Not just any thermal couple but what seems to be a very different kind, as you have read my thermal couple uses two of the same metals while normal thermal couples used two dissimilar metals. As seen here. Thermocouple - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You can test this yourself.
I shorted out a 220uF 50V capacitors + and - leads. Connected my meters - probe to the - of the capacitor and the + of my meter went to the case of the capacitor. The voltage was low, around .700 volts but when i touched with my hand or something hot the voltage slowly went up instead of down.

So technically the captret got its extra energy from radiant energy that surrounds us at all time, no matter where you go there is some type of heat.
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  #641  
Old 03-13-2011, 02:39 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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Digging this Thing out from the Corner.

I got a Shoot now from the Wave on a old Captret.
The Probe was connected between the 9V Block, Capacitor was 63V 47f. Load was a white Led witha 470ohm Resistor on the Plus side, prepared for a 12v Source. The Wave is everwhere the same, when i switch to the Cap or the Battery. A 470F gave about the same Wave out.

I did trigger the Signal, till it was stable there, but the Frequency did still jump between 2khz and 60 khz, not sure, what it actually was, because it can been noise measured also.
Sometimes it did stay stable at about 12khz.
Its may nothing new, but interesting, how the Waveform do looks like at last.
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  #642  
Old 03-19-2011, 08:12 PM
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Keep up the good work! You're onto something, indeed.

Some food for thought on the captret fun:

1) Over-Unity you'll always find in properly constructed resonant systems -- electrical, mechanical, etc.

2) Resonance views tend to be myopic among electrical experimenters. Mechanically, when the applied frequency equals the natural frequency of a system, the resultant induced waveform can go infinite in amplitude. Over-Unity is in mechanical systems and wave action all the time; for ultimately all electrical activity is a mechanical/ physical action, too. There is no separation.

3) More specific to the Captret mystery, people often forget or fail to measure that Tesla coils are over-unity devices. Why so? Because where Inductive Reactance = Capacitive Reactance....again you have Resonance. If you think about it, a relatively small high voltage power supply at low amps is used to drive a far more productive air core transformer. A step up transformer which magnifies the high voltage greatly, but how many of you actually stick an ammeter to to the lightning bolts off a Tesla coil? Common sense would tell you by just looking at the thickness and intensity of the lightning bolt....that you're dealing with considerable amp difference between the Tesla coil output and its power supply. All relates to Resonance.

4) And what do we know about resonant circuits? R-L-C circuits? Hmmm....The Captrets appear to approach over-unity and reach it. Obviously there's a capacitor in the circuit. Definitely there's a total Resistance. So, find your Inductor among the whole.....and that explains the "sweet spot" behavior. Where in the circuit does Capacitive Reactance = Inductive Reactance? :-) Just like in Tesla coils, you'll have some operation when not at the sweet spots, but, if you want maximum performance, total circuit Resistance, Capacitance, and the more mysterious Inductance need to be figured and designed around.

To find the Inductance mystery, one needs to the consider the magnetic dimension to all things electric going on in the circuit. Maybe you don't see any coil loops formed, but there are always field lines looping about any current flow. And electric current is really nothing more than the vortex spout of two, opposing magnetic rivers. For every E you put into a circuit, there is always the B (or E x B) ...and also the E' x B'. With the Captrets, you're seeing E (positive electrical energy) and E' (the negative tapped), but not seeing the B and B'. You see the C and C'. The R and R' you can see if studying it. Just need to think about your B and B' actions, and then it makes resonant sense! :-)
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:46 PM
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Additional notes/ Captret Observations

[Snippets from a note to my good friend and patent attorney, and to some other buddies who love Free Energy gizmos. This was before I read some of Dr. Stiffler's studies.]

Also, in the last 2 days, I spent more time exploring a new circuit going around out there called the "Captret", which is not my invention. However, I have managed to more deeply explore it and achieve Over-Unity with it. The difference between this device and my other generator explorations here is ZERO power input to tickle the gizmo and only power output.

It is basically a different variant of the old AM Crystal Radio. At this time, I do not know if the power source comes from waves of the Quantum Vacuum (Ether), or background radio waves & noise (not likely since the power output is stable and unbroken), or if from cosmic background radiation (Microwave, etc.). I do not yet know the reasons for function. Among tests, it is too soon to say, but possibly the ratio of capacitance to capacitance affects the performance of the circuit due to resonance & oscillator issues.

Definitely, the circuit behaves as an amplifier of background electromagnetic noise, and so some form of oscillation is likely. The circuit also comprises Resistance in the wires (R), Inductors among the spiral coiling of capacitor plates (L), and Capacitance.....therefore, it has a resonant frequency....and R-L-C values impact that.

Asymmetry between large and small capacitor also makes a difference, and this issue relates to electrokinetics, gravitics, warped space-time, etc. Another possible reason (or all of them combined), is the issue of the first magnetic field spiraling around as the capacitor plates spiral. Meanwhile, that looping of current causes a second magnetic vector along the capacitor axis. Here, you have formation of the Lorentz O. When magnetism is split and fields & their vortices spun about each other in anything other than parallel, this asymmetry in magnetism results in asymmetry in space-time and results in also acceleration....or that "warp" basically induces a little mini-whitehole (or mini-blackhole) in which forces of the Quantum Vacuum can shunt into or out of our dimensional plane.

In any case and whatever the true physics explanation behind why the circuit works, I have definitely produced milliWatt levels of power with it continuously for a couple days now. Measured on the scope. Charge builds up when no load is on the circuit. Then, it discharges quickly and goes to an equilibrium voltage level....depending upon if the load is greater or less than the milliWatt generator output. For now, I have the circuit building up voltage from near 0 volts to 4 volts peak surge, and then steady to 0.4 Volts with light load of the meter....or dropping to 0 again with load of the oscilloscope.

Possibly (needing more experiment) I am finding better results and voltage increase as the large capacitor bank is expanded while the small cap is held the same or reduced in capacitance (Capacitor / Charge asymmetry). Normally, charge asymmetry yields an electrokinetic (anti-gravitic effect that is not from Ion Wind and confirmed in vacuum tests). Anytime there is asymmetry in our world, there is always Potential Energy waiting to flow to Kinetic. The galvanic potential between two electrodes, for example, yields a potential difference (or Voltage bias). A high voltage charged, asymmetric capacitor yields counter-gravitic Lift. We also know that the shape asymmetry of eggs yields a voltage potential about the egg's surface and as a function of rotational position within the gravitic field-- due to magnetism's having to basically airfoil over the shape difference (just like wing camber's asymmetry yields lift). Asymmetry between High and Low pressure.....yields wind and water flows. Newtonian Mechanics still at the core of these quantum areas, as things in equilibrium prefer to stay in equilibrium. Things warped away from balance, try to seek balance. A 10 pound weight on one side of the scale tries to equalize with the 10 gram weight at the other end, but flies past equilibrium with great momentum because of the asymmetry in mass.

Energy and Mass being interchangeable, Charge works the same way. Condense charge anywhere in space-time, and even the standard capacitor weighs very slightly less due to charge asymmetry. In Plank's equation, E = hf, if you simply raise the vibrational frequency of anything, you raise its Energy value. An object of low energy has mass. Objects of high energy go massless and even invisible. Charge (in relation to capacitor storage) is basically Energy and/ or Mass condensed, but, when you condense that Mass-Energy with asymmetry, you develop asymmetry in magnetic, gravitic, and electrical forces.....which, if a gimbal lock is placed upon any axis (magnetic and gravitic), the primary path of least resistance for that energy flow is onto the electrical plane....yielding a voltage bias.
* In this case, the capacitor is "gimbal locked" in the gravitic due to fixation of position. The magnetic is "gimbal locked" due to containment in the Faraday Cage that is the casing. Radiant Energy expression along the electric is the path of least resistance, and so the voltage bias makes sense.
Outside of all that, another factor going on in the Captret is that the metal can forms a Faraday Cage. As magnetic forces inside the capacitor spiral about yet impact the cage, voltage can be induced here, too. However, anywhere you have an Over-Unity issue going on in violation of the "laws of science", the system has to be drawing wave energy from another source......and that is always with the Quantum Vacuum where resonance occurs (always a PHI relation). Even in mechanical systems, when the applied frequency equals the natural frequency of the system, you have resonance....and we know that the amplitude of the resultant waves can theoretically go infinite.

With the Captret, there also seems to be a mechanical saturation limit on the system and various things to design around, but definitely the system has a natural frequency as an RLC circuit / capacitive-oscillator-amplifier....and the amplification part of the applied frequency is done by Resonance. The source of the applied frequency remains unknown at this point is all, but, generally, you cannot get Over-Unity without it coming from the Quantum Vacuum. If it were merely from background radio noise of the world, the voltage would be intermittent, shifting, and not so related to resonant issues nor would there be such great amplification from microvolts to millivolts and volts in amplitude.

ADDITIONAL OBSERVATIONS

Capacitor banks are highly sensitive to external electric charge, specifically of the human body at distances over 12". This can result in experimental inaccuracy. Ample static electrical when ground leads are pulled.

...Uploading some test data soon.
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  #644  
Old 03-22-2011, 06:33 PM
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Captret tests

The following tests were carried out last night fairly quickly, in casual form, and with no tight methodology. Therefore, though the general shapes of the graph and data hold true, exact accuracy is a bit off on milliVolt measure, seconds counted (manually with a stopwatch), and all of my ammeters are presently kaput while I did not bother to set up a voltage/ resistor circuit to calculate amps. The missing perspective on amps needs to be considered also before drawing conclusions in regard to charging and discharge rates. Generally, the faster the discharge rate, the greater will have been the amp flow.


(Image should appear here. If not, follow this link: View image: CAPT2

The table and charts show two considerations: 1) Over-Unity device ranking as a function of performance measured in milliVolt rise per second. 2) Order on the chart ranked in terms of capacitance (though some initial mass tests and comparisons are off to the right).

Explanation


A 22 uF / 25 Volt Philips electrolytic capacitor was used as the captret. Its casing was clipped to with the (-) of the feed capacitor and capacitor banks.
This capacitor was selected from prior trials which showed what seemed to be the best resonant circuit combination with the overall wiring resistance and a 470 uF / 50 V Nichicon capacitor. Capacitor arrangements were quickly tried and seemed to show better output from an asymmetrical charging arrangement (big feed cap / little captret). From there, I wanted to explore how Feed Capacitor variance affects the circuit. Tests were also done with the single 22uF cap. After reading Dr. Stiffler's research into Tesla radiant energy receivers and mass, I threw in a couple "mass antenna" formed from brass weights for comparison tests.

Observations on the oscilloscope show faint AC noise which is amplified by a single capacitor alone and oddly rectified to DC by the captret nature -- Dr. Stiffler's "Phantom Diode" observation. Amplification also implies oscillation and resonance issues in play, as noted to the RLC circuit. The AC signal is amplitude modulated more so than frequency, and so this gives a DC reading only when the circuit is grounded.

The system is behaving as an antenna of some form. Whether that be Ether or background radio remains to be seen. I suspect Ether. When the ground lead is disconnected, the AC charges the capacitor (This is the Charging time measured). Time was counted from ground disconnect to reconnection and DC voltage level noted -- giving milliVolt rise per Time. This was roughly averaged/ approximated/ eyeballed leading to some inaccuracy in experiment, but overall shape of data remains. At a selected voltage level, the rate of discharge back to starting point was also measured. It should be noted, however, that -- just as in normal capacitor discharge, the rate is greater at higher voltages and lesser near the residual voltage. Takes longer time for the capacitor to fade out.

"Full Bank" refers to a mixture of little capacitors of various value on hand which composed a larger capacitor bank wired in parallel. Haven't yet tabulated the Farads, but it is the biggest bank. The rest are various capacitors and voltage ratings. Mass-driven antenna in replacement of the capacitor bank are also compared. Here, a 60 gram brass weight versus a 10 gram weight was tested as an asymmetrical antenna with variable gap space (mini Jacob's Ladder form). A pair of 10 gram brass weights were also compared.

All discharge load was constant and simply from the oscilloscope drain in measurement. When that load is removed, voltage builds in the circuit to a saturation point -- generally around 0.4 Volts with the 470 / 22 uF combination in this circuit. .

The charts show charge and discharge rates for each device construct. The 470 uF/ 22 uF capacitor bank clearly shows a greater rate of charging than discharge. This means nothing without amp measure, however. Generally, it hints that the 470 uF/ 22 uF combination is operating closer to the circuit's RLC "sweet spot" than other constructs.

More experiment needs to be done, but there are also a couple key observations here:

In a side by side comparison of Feed Capacitors acting as antennae, greater capacitance and size of the 1000 uF cap performed less than a smaller 10 uF cap for charge build-up and discharge rate. Their voltage ratings were also fairly close. The difference? The 1000 uF cap was long and skinny, but of slightly greater diameter than the 10 uF cap. Of them all, the greatest performer was the fat, short 470 uF cap -- further implying Inductance the issue here and confirming my suspicions on resonance activity behind it all. The fat, short capacitor has more foil turns per unit length and behaves just as insulated magnet wire does in forming an electromagnet. This spiral arrangement, however, is set up in asymmetrical fashion over conventional coils. It composes a directional and vortex form of winding -- just like in Tesla pancake coils -- which results in greater concentration of forces, energy, or what can be seen as electron momentum variance. If you follow the path of a single electron going into and out of the spiral, it gains or loses energy with asymmetry. Charge asymmetry implies a counter-gravitic action and E' x B' activity over conventional E x B.

There are two magnetic fields in interplay: 1) The field set up planar to current flow as electrons spiral through the capacitor foil, and 2) those magnetic loops flow and condense as we move to the spiral interior. The looping current in itself yields an axial magnetic force which derives from that summing of forces, but this magnetic force is "gimbal locked" by the Faraday Cage and also further gimbal locked by zero acceleration on the capacitor....therefore, energy flow to greater voltage bias is the course.

The observations point to improved captret designs that should be based closer to Tesla pancake coil form. Miles long, skinny foil -- or just magnet wire with insulation as the dielectric -- as the antenna (or Feed Capacitor). Aluminum "Faraday Cage".

Aluminum being not so magnetic and yet subjected to those Faraday Cage forces as shielding....this could be partly where the "phantom diode" action arises.

MilliWatt power generation, but definitely Over-Unity and something that can be upscaled or used. Greater voltage bias, however, will result from sky/ earth Radiant Energy setups as Tesla noted.

Never let the Naysayer Nellies discourage you or coincidental discoveries (such as reinventing Dr. Stiffler's wheel), IBPointless. Happens all the time. The captret has practical, portable, low-power applications. LED's lights, burst signal, and may hold greater utility where upscaled and fine tuned. All part of the bag of tricks in future electrical engineering!

What you dudes really need to have fun playing with more is Daniel McFarland Cook's Electromagnetic Battery. US Patent # 119,825.


Warm regards ,


"The Abominable Snowman"
SnowLabs.net
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:28 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Glad to see someone still looking at the Captret idea. When I piece the idea together i never had idea of overunity or free energy, and really didn't know how it work, all I knew was that it could light a LED and I should share this with people. The Captret idea was fun and it got people to think outside the box and that was all I wanted from this.

It was true that I did get some self charging circuits and this has always had me wondering where this extra energy was coming from. So I set out to figure out what made the Captret, or in-fact capacitors in general so special. The extra electricity is coming from the fact that when two of the same metals placed in a dielectric a voltage will appear. The random voltage could also be the reason why we have dielectric absorption, even when a capacitor is new or has been shorted out for a long time it will still show a small voltage. I spin most of my time studying the amazing phenomenon, You search anywhere and two of the same metals placed in a dielectric such as water should not make any power but it does even when you used pure distilled water. The only thing that comes close to explaining this idea is the Casmir effect but even that's a bit of a stretch.

The power you get from the two of the same metal plates in the distilled water is very unique, it seems to have a frequency that it floats on, sort of like its producing AC power. The power is also very dependent of it surroundings, temp. , seasons, and even the very shape of the plates.

So if any one want to know why the captret or even some capacitors seem to have a mysterious overunity voltage to them then my study in the same metal water battery might offer a clue but not the full answer. I still don't know why two of the same metals place in water would give a voltage, its not galvanic because i use the same metal in the same distilled water. I'll post a link to the blog about the same metal water battery, it gives the most up to date things I find about it.
Same Metal Water Battery

I've been studying this idea for a while and I've given several names, "water captret", "similar metal water battery", and "same metal water battery". so doing a simple google search of batteries that use the same metals in water would bring up all my study on the topic and many of my videos, but those 3 names are pretty much the same.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:39 AM
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Same Metal

IB -- Fascinating research. Thanks!

Just a thought on it: There's no reason Casimir Effect cannot relate to this. It is normally found at micron and nanometer distances between same electrodes and exists in capacitors, also. But, water is a very unique substance and lattice capable of amplification and extension of signals. When you're dealing with water and finding energy coming from it, it's generally best to start breaking away from the conventional world of physics we know. Water is like a portal to the other side and into the Ether. If you take water from a source -- such as a spring -- and split it, and take those two ounces all about the world...those are very unique, highly efficient, antenna able to conduct signals between them at beyond light speed through basically teleportation of signals through the Ether.

Study your water and same plates further. If you put a data logger to it for 2 weeks or take readings at the same time each evening....chart that data in relation to the waxing and waning of the Moon. You will find that water is always more active in the moonlight. More vital. More alive. More viscous. As the new moon comes, the water dies out. And thus the nature of your "electrolyte" there also changes with the Moon. But, as in crystal power cells, you are dealing more with lattice issues and detection of jitter from the Ether more so than electrolytic issues and galvanism.

Consider the sum of Casimir Effect within the lattice between the same rods, and then you can see how the voltage normally between two close plates can be present at greater distances due to amplification and maintenance of the signal.

Never think man knows all there is to know of water. It always has infinite mysteries to further explore. It remembers. It burns and makes fire. It quenches fire and cools. It freezes. It can fracture mountains or condense and shape them. And two drops descendant from one are the same portal a universe away while two drops pressed into one can tap into a universe of energy.

Enjoy!
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:19 AM
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SL3 SL3 is offline
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one more thing

Aside from my talk of a Faraday Cage composed by the capacitor can, consider that it also serves as an electromagnetic cavity resonator, and so every cap is going to have natural frequencies. I suspect you will nicely find additional over-unity when the applied frequency off a function generator & transistor equal the natural frequency of the resonator.
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Old 04-15-2011, 03:23 PM
Lajdva Lajdva is offline
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Measuring

Hi Guys,
This is my official first post on the energeticforum even I am a member for several mounts (shame ). I have a question about measuring of Captret.

I have seen this video YouTube - ibpointless2's Channel about amplifying and I was wondering if anybody would have same result with analog meter. Digital meters has baterry and therefore measurement could be confusing because nobody probably every thing about this "non by the book" properties of capacitors.


I know only one thing, everything seems to work. I test that today.

Thanks for reply
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:15 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lajdva View Post
Hi Guys,
This is my official first post on the energeticforum even I am a member for several mounts (shame ). I have a question about measuring of Captret.

I have seen this video YouTube - ibpointless2's Channel about amplifying and I was wondering if anybody would have same result with analog meter. Digital meters has baterry and therefore measurement could be confusing because nobody probably every thing about this "non by the book" properties of capacitors.


I know only one thing, everything seems to work. I test that today.

Thanks for reply


Hello,

The amplifying of the voltage was due to the effect that I'm studying now, when the same metals are put in a dielectric material they produce power. Since the capacitor is all aluminum including the case and the plates I was able to use that small amount of voltage to increase the total voltage. So You can think of the voltage increase was due to the fact that the same metals in a dielectric make a battery and I put that battery in series with the AA battery and measure the voltage of the two "batteries" in series and I have a higher voltage. Not to be confused with putting a AA battery in series with the + and - of the capacitor, I'm adding the natural voltage that is created when two of the same metals are placed in dielectric material.

As to where the voltage comes from when two of the same metals placed in a dielectric materials is coming from I don't know yet.

As for using a analog meter I've found it should not matter, from my test a digital meter will drain a capacitor. The battery being there is not a problem because most analog multimeter also use a battery too.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:18 AM
bugler bugler is offline
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ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:09 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugler View Post
ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.


Hello the water captret was to study the effect more and get a better understanding. All electronic components are affected by heat and pressure so the main reason for the power in the captret was not from heat energy. The Main reason for the extra energy has to do with the dielectric materials will create voltage. But I and many others have played with the idea of a solar panel made of capacitor. We found out that the cheap ceramic capacitors that no one really wants because of them being affected by heat could be use to collect solar energy. Paint the capacitors black and put a spark gap on them and have the charge a battery heres a link for more on the idea Captret - Capacitor and Electret
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:22 PM
stevecmagni1 stevecmagni1 is offline
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Red face Stevec

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
I just ran a test using a crystal oscillator powered by the captret and the output was interesting. The current draw on the system was 1.1ma using a 9v battery with 8.15 volts showing. A 47uf 50v cap was used with this test. The output of the 1Mhz crystal was about 9 volts. I added a coil tuned for the chip and the voltage jumped to 15.5 volts at the open lead of the coil.

The same captret configuration powering Dr. Stifflers Sec18 uses .8 ma and produces 38 volts on the output coil.

It would seem you can produce a reasonable low power signal oscillator to drive more LED's or charge external caps with the same low input. The captret provides a nice stable voltage/current regulator for driving other projects.

I also used some UV LED's to see if they would power some tiny solar cells, they did produce aroud 4 volts of output at the cell but the current was very low at around .1ma while the captret circuit was running at around 2ma driving those LED's. Pretty poor efficiency on the UV output but an interesing test none the less. It may take the proper UV LED to actually match the solar cell to produce a reasonable output - all I had available was the bright blue.
Please try and power a Hartley oscillator with it, they run at power levels of micro amps. Great work in working out practical ways to utilise this strange effect.
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  #653  
Old 04-28-2011, 07:38 PM
stevecmagni1 stevecmagni1 is offline
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Smile Stevec

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tectalabyss View Post
Hello Ibepointless2.
I was going to read the complete Forum And then post till reading this. And I Just wanted you to know ( I CARE ) and so do a lot of others.So don't give up And THANK YOU. Tec
I CARE as well, well done for finding out some thing really unusual and new from almost nothing. Thanks for persisting to the end, despite the usual arm chair critics.

"Some times when some one knows nothing about a subject, they DON'T know what is impossible to do!" Awesome!
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Old 08-14-2011, 01:07 PM
mcmlxii mcmlxii is offline
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you cant claim overunity because 1 charge = 2 flashes. that would be comparing apples to oranges. you would have to measure the charge going in and compare it to the 2 charges coming out to see if they were a greater energy.

my captret replication increased the voltage on a series of 3 old 3v button batteries from 6.63v to 8.65v over a period of 5 hours. when I took the batteries out of the circuit and loaded them with 1k resistor v dropped to 2.7v in seconds. kinda like the battery was acting like a cap.

It does look like it would light an led for a very long time though.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:45 AM
rickinva rickinva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sseti View Post
Did anyone noticed the same effect when cap + is disconected from the circuit?
I have been experimenting with but do NOT use the plus terminal on the electretcap at all. I have several experiments going.

#1

(1) a Radioshack Ultra High Brightness 10 mm White LED (part # 276-0005) 20 mA 3.5 - 4.0 VDC 28,500mcd intensity

(3) GAA Panasonic 100 VDC 10000 microF capacitors with a part of the metal case exposed to form one terminal of the electretcap and the negative terminal of the capacitor as the second terminal of the electretcap (the positive terminal of the cap is not used at all)

(1) 3 VDC battery holder

(2) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

The negative of the battery pack is connected to the case of each of the 3 capacitors.

The positive of the battery pack is connected to the positive lead of the LED.

The negative lead of the LED is connected to the negative terminal of each of the 3 capacitors.

The LED is lit so brightly that I can not look directly into it and more than bright enough to read by if used like a pencell flashlight. The voltage across the battery pack has been holding at 2 89 VDC @ 3.59 mA for over 24 hours and the LED has been connected and lit full time for over 3 days now.

#2

(1) Same Radioshack #276-0005 single Ultra High Brightness White LED

(1) Maxwell Technologies BoostCap Type BCAP0010 A08 2600 F 2.5VDC Ultracapacitor with case exposed to form one of the electretcap terminals used.

(1) Radioshack 6 VDC 4 AA battery pack holder

(4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

Same exact setup (positive terminal of capacitor unused)

Case of capacitor connected to the negative terminal of the battery pack.

Positive terminal of the battery pack connected to the positive lead of the LED.

Negative lead of the LED connected to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

LED just as bright as in #1 above

8.66 mA and 5.99 VDC across the battery.

#3 I bought a 100 LED flashlight that normally runs on (4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries.

It comes with a (4) AA battery holder that slips inside the flashlight handle case.

I bored a 1/8" dia hole in the base cap of the flashlight, so (2) 20 AWG insulated wires could exit out of the flashlight case.

I connected one of the two 20 AWG wires to the negative terminal of the battery holder. Then I inserted a piece of plasticized thin cardboard between the negative of the battery (that would have made contact with the negative terminal of the battery pack) and the negative terminal of the battery pack itself (to prevent electrical contact).

Then slipped the exposed end of the second 20 AWG insulated wire between the negative base of that battery and the insulating piece.

And reassembled the flashlight. With the other ends of both 20 AWG wires run outside of the flashlight case, if I turned the switch of the flashlight on, no light was emitted from the 100 LEDs. If I connected the two wire ends together the flashlight lit normally.

Then I connected the wire connected to the negative end of the battery in the battery pack, to the case of (2) Maxwell super capacitors (listed in #2 above) and the negative terminal of the (2) negative terminals of the (2) super capacitors and the flashlight immediately lit up to what appeared to be about 60% +/- of the normal brightness of the flashlight head. I've ordered some more super capacitors and will try to find a combination that produces nearly full intensity of the flashlight.

It is using 15.74 mA but I have no convenient way of measuring the voltage because the positive connections are deep inside the case and I didn't think to run a positive lead outside for measuring purposes.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:29 AM
aaron5120 aaron5120 is offline
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Rikinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:43 PM
Nick_Z Nick_Z is offline
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Guys:
It's been a while since I last worked on the captret devices, but I was thinking that they may work even better if a home made cell (battery) were incorporated into the system. Like an activated carbon/Magnesium cell. Or carbon/aluminum cell. My cells are still producing an output even after a couple of years, which can help to maintain the voltages on the regular batteries/capacitors at a higher levels. Which would produce a brighter light from the leds. A couple of cells can produce 2.5 volts or so, and about 10 to 20 mA.
Also using a Lasersaber cross-over type circuit can also be used.
Just some ideas...
Nick_Z
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:47 PM
rickinva rickinva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron5120 View Post
Rickinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120
As for lasting indefinitely, I honestly don't know. Alkaline batteries may eat their way through the casing in time. but the LED has at most a 10,000 hour burn time, so it should burn out in a year and a third/quarter. Whether it will burn out faster, remains to be seen.

I am also using a 12 VDC 5 AH lead acid gel battery that was run down to a little more than 4.5 V under load that has gone down and holding at 3.24 VDC with a 10000 microfarad 100 V capacitor lighting a Ultra Bright 10 mm LED rated at 20 mA 3.5 to 4.0 VDC. The LED is "fairly bright", but no where near full brightness, but holding it own for the past two weeks.

Since I don't use the "capacitor portion" (both positive AND negative terminals) of the Ultracaps (only the negative terminal and the capacitor's case, there is no "charging up" of the capacitor at all. Neither does the setup charge the batteries. In fact, fully charged batteries run down part way and then seem to find a point at which they hold that level of charge.

Regretfully, I don't know any formulas, as yet, that will tell us where that point is. Also, the amount of light you get from your LED/s seems to depend on the size of the capacitor/s being used to serve as the captret (electret cap) and I know of no formulas to determine the ideal size to use for a given LED setup and battery voltage.

I am excited at a new experiment I just started today (so it is a bit early to tell how well it is going to work or for how long).

I bought an "Energizer" potable 8 LED Red (plastic) "Lantern", intended for camping, etc. I cut the black (negative) wire in two, going from the 4 "D" Cell internal battery pack to the little printed circuit board holding the light's on/off switch. I connected the wire part going to the negative base of the battery pack to the case of a 50,000 microfarad 15WVDC capacitor from Capacitor Technologies and the other piece of cut wire (going to the switch pcb) was connected to the capacitor's negative terminal.

To my complete surprise, the unit lit up to the same brightness as it did when the battery pack is connected directly to the switch pcb.

I kept switching back and forth between the capacitor connections and direct connect and for the life of me, I can't see any real difference in amount of brightness (where as all my other experiments showed less light from the LED/s with the capacitor connected verses direct connections of the LED/s and their powering battery/ies. I showed it to two other friends and they couldn't see a light brightness difference either.

So, apparently for the LED setup for this particular portable lantern and this particular 50,000 microfarad capacitor with that particular case surface area, plate structure inside and electrolyte used, it seems to be a perfect match with 6 VDC (4 D size Alkaline batteries). Now all that remains is to see if the voltage holds at a level that will keeps things as they are now. They have been for 4 hours so far.

As for photos of the set ups, I'll do my best to try to take some and post them, IF things seem to keep working.

But for replication purposes:

Connect a wire lead to the case of whatever electrolyte capacitor you want to use as the "captret"/"electret cap" and one to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

Wiring setup:

(1) Connect the capacitor's case lead to the negative terminal of your battery source.

(2) Connect the positive lead of your battery source to the positive lead of whatever LED/s you plan on using.

(3) Finally, connect the capacitor's negative "terminal" lead to the negative lead of the LED/s and say the magic words "Let there be light". And "lo and behold" it will appear.
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:03 AM
aaron5120 aaron5120 is offline
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Hi, Rickinva,
I am quite happy you have found a match by accident with this captret thing, applying it to a camping light.
Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.
Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.
Keep up the good work, my friend.

aaron5120
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:04 AM
rickinva rickinva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron5120 View Post
Hi, Rickinva,

...

Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.

---

I'll test for that and get back to you.

Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.


aaron5120
I still can't provide a picture, but here is a link to where I bought it:

Energizer LED Red Folding Lantern-FL452WRH at The Home Depot
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