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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2010, 07:47 AM
seth seth is offline
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Thanks for the diagram Zinc! Loooks very interesting - please keep us informed of any results.

I'm MrFlathunter on Youtube and you commented on my 12V Kapagen vid. I have already tried lighting the CFLs without the reversed tesla coil and yep - it still works. Ive never tried without the spark gap and grounding - ill give it a try today. I thought the output would be much less without spark gap and grounding, but perhaps im completely wrong - only one way to find out!

Like many others, my kapagen is certainly NOT self feeding, nor OU.......
.....yet.

Good luck!
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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2011, 11:35 AM
Sal Sal is offline
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Wink

Hello friends! This is my atempt to test kapagen... I start with not self running first.. details and results will be posted here when i finish testing.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2011, 08:22 PM
Sal Sal is offline
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First test positive.. I have no readings yet. All my 75W bulbs are dead!! except the one you see at video, which is a 100W halogen. Twomorow I am gona get some bulbs.

YouTube - KAPAGEN free energy!!
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2011, 06:28 PM
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thedude thedude is offline
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thought i'd throw in

Hi everyone!

Very interesting line of experimentation. Thanks to everyone who is participating and sharing. Here is a link to my video demonstration of what i'm seeing.

I'm not trying to discredit the kapanadze or kapagen device in anyway. It could very well be that i'm missing the benefit of having the generator in the circuit. However, I did make a kapanadze generator coil and tested with it both with my HV oscillators using ignition coils and modified CFLs to measure back EMF production, as well as with my 3 microwave transformer HV ouput for my Tesla coil (1 MOT for inductive ballast and other two in series for 4k volt).

In my case there is good and not so good news to report. Good news is. Wow! You most certainly can light a series of incandescent bulbs in this fashion. Depending on the wattage and type of bulb, you can have some really efficient lighting and even more brilliance than normal from your bulbs. In some cases with certain types of bulbs, two bulbs would light better than one at the same current and voltage levels at the input! Very interesting. Seems to indicate that there is a resonant frequency that needs to be either matched or induced in the back field of current which can provide greater efficiency.

Not so good news in my case is that the Kapanadze generator coil seemed to inhibit the flow of back field current from ground to my bulbs, given my 4k MOT HV power supply specifically. I noticed no real benefits to using with my self oscillating chargers and their ability to light CFLs either.

I'm not at all discouraged with this line of experimentation and rather would really like to see others working toward understanding how this source of radiant energy can be better captured and utilized.

Thanks for letting me share. Sure look forward to seeing what other ideas can be incorporated. I think Tesla would be smiling.

Edit - as i'm not specifically concerned with the kapanadze generator coil I will likely start another thread to discuss the use of lighting using back emf.

Last edited by thedude : 02-22-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2011, 11:59 PM
peterbra peterbra is offline
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Hi everybody ! I'm just curious if anybody got closer to getting this up and running like Kapanadze did ?
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2011, 08:09 AM
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kcarring kcarring is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude View Post
Edit - as i'm not specifically concerned with the kapanadze generator coil I will likely start another thread to discuss the use of lighting using back emf.
I couldn't agree more. There have been many overunity replication attempts, and all I have seen are failures. I do not believe jnaudins is overunity either, I'm not convinced. Kapanadze - possibly an investment scam. However, it remains very interesting how resonance and spikes seem to really make your "power money" go a long way. Even bifilar circuits display this, and it makes me scratch my head.

Last edited by kcarring : 03-13-2011 at 08:10 AM. Reason: fix
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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2011, 12:45 AM
aussie aussie is offline
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hi,

great thread, am thinking of giving it a go as well.

i have read a lot about it, watched all the videos i could find about replications and so on.
Just about everyone in videos is saying a similar thing, as in having
connected > 2000W worth of light bulbs and driven them with 200W or
whatever.
the thing that puzzles me is the amount of light shown in videos.
does the camera totally distort the amount of light being emitted by the bulbs?

looking at the following picture http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/image...rt1800W-01.jpg
Robert is lighting up 1800W worth of light bulbs, but the top of the table is
in the shade.
When i connect my 1000W flood light or even a 500W one and place it on the floor, then the
whole room is as bright as daylight and there is no shade on tables or
cubboards because of light reflecting of walls and ceiling.
i do know that a flood light focusses the light, but also has nearly halve the rating.

Has anyone measured the actual light being emitted by the bulbs?
connecting 1800W worth of bulbs (rating) and light being emitting only being 200W would not be that great.
In one of Naudin's videos ‪New test of the Kapagen v3.3 by Jean-Louis Naudin‬‏ - YouTube,
the bulbs seem to only just glow and in the video they are rated at 14x150W.

i am not trying to discredit the invention.
i have replicated a couple of ideas from this forum and they work great.

Would be great if you could comment on light output.
How does one of the bulbs from a replication stand against one (same rating) that is plugged straight into the powerpoint?

Last edited by aussie : 08-02-2011 at 07:34 AM.
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2011, 04:02 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie View Post
hi,

great thread, am thinking of giving it a go as well.

i have read a lot about it, watched all the videos i could find about replications and so on.
Just about everyone in videos is saying a similar thing, as in having
connected > 2000W worth of light bulbs and driven them with 200W or
whatever.
the thing that puzzles me is the amount of light shown in videos.
does the camera totally distort the amount of light being emitted by the bulbs?

looking at the following picture http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/image...rt1800W-01.jpg
Robert is lighting up 1800W worth of light bulbs, but the top of the table is
in the shade.
When i connect my 1000W flood light or even a 500W one and place it on the floor, then the
whole room is as bright as daylight and there is no shade on tables or
cubboards because of light reflecting of walls and ceiling.
i do know that a flood light focusses the light, but also has nearly halve the rating.

Has anyone measured the actual light being emitted by the bulbs?
connecting 1800W worth of bulbs (rating) and light being emitting only being 200W would not be that great.
In one of Naudin's videos ‪New test of the Kapagen v3.3 by Jean-Louis Naudin‬‏ - YouTube,
the bulbs seem to only just glow and in the video they are rated at 14x150W.

i am not trying to discredit the invention.
i have replicated a couple of ideas from this forum and they work great.

Would be great if you could comment on light output.
How does one of the bulbs from a replication stand against one (same rating) that is plugged straight into the powerpoint?
I have noticed the same issues in my tests. The light output is far less when hooked up to the device.

For example: You can make a light box and take 2000W of lights and plug them into the wall. Read light output with a lux meter. Then plug in the light box to the device and light output is %70 less.

I most likely did something wrong but it did not seem to work for me. And everyone that I know who has performed the same tests came up with around the same results.

-Altrez
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2011, 04:43 PM
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Farmhand Farmhand is offline
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G'day Aussie, You bring up a good point, I don't have a kapagen, but I notice the same thing with some of my other devices. Maybe it is because the light bulbs are designed to work from low frequency high current, but the device outputs high frequency medium current or low current.

The output of the device cannot be determined by the number of lightbulbs of a certain wattage it makes to "glow", the first picture you linked of the lights inside looks strange, like the camera settings are messed with to make it look like the bulbs are lighted better than they are, the light from them is yellow and there are a lot of shadows as you say. Good call.

To make the lights light properly and determine the true ouput power the output should be converted to 50/60 Hz at 110v or 220v or if just for measurement DC is OK. Which should not be too difficult for someone who can build the device. I may be mistaken and the output may in fact be converted in such systems. But if so why not a voltage and current reading on the output. Or better still a wattmeter.

To get a accurate reading from regular meters 50/60 hz AC or DC output would be best. That is one of the reasaons I either don't bother with output measurements or don't take much notice. The brightness of the light is what is important.

I also don't understand people doing all the calirometer testing and soforth looking for O.U. from Ma devices, If it isn't obvious it isn't worth worrying about in my opinion. Also devices that do not scale up well are not much use either.

Cheers
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 07:21 AM
aussie aussie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcarring View Post
I have noticed the same issues in my tests. The light output is far less when hooked up to the device.

For example: You can make a light box and take 2000W of lights and plug them into the wall. Read light output with a lux meter. Then plug in the light box to the device and light output is %70 less.
thanks, that is what i was afraid of.
does the unit at least use 70% less energy to do the job?
if the unit was closed looped, then hell, bring it on, even at 70% less light

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
G'day Aussie, You bring up a good point, I don't have a kapagen, but I notice the same thing with some of my other devices. Maybe it is because the light bulbs are designed to work from low frequency high current, but the device outputs high frequency medium current or low current.
if that is the case, then it would probably work better with flurescent lights,
which would be an advantage for me, as i have not seen any normal bulbs
in shops for a while. weren't they supposed to be phased out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
The output of the device cannot be determined by the number of lightbulbs of a certain wattage it makes to "glow", the first picture you linked of the lights inside looks strange, like the camera settings are messed with to make it look like the bulbs are lighted better than they are, the light from them is yellow and there are a lot of shadows as you say. Good call.
looking at the top most bulb, it even looks like the light emitted is so low
that we can see the filament.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
To get a accurate reading from regular meters 50/60 hz AC or DC output would be best.
it would be interesing to see if it would be the same to connect the lights
to the unit, measure the input voltage, ampere and lux and then connect
the same lights directly to a power source with same amount of volts and current and again measure the lux.

Last edited by aussie : 08-04-2011 at 11:43 AM.
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  #221 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2011, 03:54 AM
Ron Hammar Ron Hammar is offline
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HI All,

I am Ron Hammar and I live in Mt Shasta CA

I just got out of the bath tub and while I was there the thought came to me about the windings of the coils. CCW and CW and CCW. Most coils when you wind them you go CW or CCW and when you get to the end you keep going the same way but come back over the coils that you just did CW or CCW.

We have a lot of drawing saying that you X# of turns CCW and X# of turns CW and X# turns CCW. This would make sense if you start each coil at the bottom of the core and wrap them going up the core.

Has any one tried this? This could give some very new effects on the coils possibly.
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  #222 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2011, 06:47 PM
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boguslaw boguslaw is online now
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Ron ,
Keep going, very good thoughts...
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  #223 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2011, 08:18 PM
Miloman Miloman is offline
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Hey Xen???, whatever. to win your battle of authenication,, just build it as JL Naudine and BUY your luminie whatever thingy and post your results,
Appears to me you don't believe in this technology, yet you are taking up the whole page with your time and space and knowledge witt.
I am not being mean spirited here, I just came to here to look at plans to BUILD my own and come to MY OWN conclusions.. But I have a slow connection so pages load slowly anyway, but might be faster if there wasn't so much negativity and more positive assertions posted,,"HOW?" because I would be busy reading worth while postings and not even notice the speed.

For the life of me, I can't understand why all these NAY say'ers come to these OU sites with there negative attitudes! They must have some sort of VESTED intrest in keeping the rest of the world tied to the endless payment for energy while destroying our planet,, that explains it! they have a continual pay check from our dependence on there service or product, they have the time and REASON to search these sites and dog them!

Last edited by Miloman : 09-25-2011 at 08:21 PM.
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  #224 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2011, 11:55 PM
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One thing I've noticed when taking video and photo's of lights is that the
cameras usually self adjust to compensate for the bright light and in doing so it
makes the light look duller than it actually is.

So it is very difficult to tell actually how bright a light is going by a picture or
even a video, unless you know the camera settings used and if the camera is
on "Auto" or "manual" adjust.

I think if a camera was manually adjusted it could portray better the brightness.

But that might also allow for the camera CCD to be damaged or something.

This is why accurate Lux or Lumen or Watt meter reading are important.

The photo's mean very little mostly. At least to me.

Cheers
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  #225 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2011, 04:24 AM
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darthmarls darthmarls is offline
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Just do the test-all will benefit from it! Why not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidbid View Post
DENIED. I resent the inference. You're attempting to put your words into my mouth. Those are your words. I never made the above statement that you are editorializing on.

I said in response to your statement of "A simple luxmeter measurement comparison test series as suggested on overunity would wipe away all doubt or someone closing the loop." that, and I quote myself here,



Now a word about evidence:



Then you proceed to quote the following members: Barotoulogos, Aether22, and E2Matrix. I have nothing against these members or what they say, but you quoting their opinions is not presenting evidence.

It seems the argument has turned boring and repetative. If It takes as long as me finishing my working(I hope!!) replication to run the lumens test, I will. It would be helpfull to me if someone would beat me to the punch in the name of advancing the cause and moving this story along to the finish line, so to speak! Thanks for all the useful advice provided so far!
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  #226 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:18 AM
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vidbid vidbid is offline
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Cool Don't Waste Your Time With The Kapagen As Defined By JL Naudin

Quote:
Originally Posted by darthmarls View Post
It seems the argument has turned boring and repetative. If It takes as long as me finishing my working(I hope!!) replication to run the lumens test, I will. It would be helpfull to me if someone would beat me to the punch in the name of advancing the cause and moving this story along to the finish line, so to speak! Thanks for all the useful advice provided so far!
It seems you're quoting me from about a year ago.

News Update: Forget the Kapagen Device as defined by JL Naudin. KAPAGEN, the Tariel Kapanadze's generator It's a dead end. Don't waste your time with it, and I started this thread and figured that out. DEAD END! No Overunity.

And it's not the same as what Tariel Kapanadze came up with.

Where it's at is with Wesley or stivep1, who is studying Tariel Kapanadze's technology.



first light of hope in 2012 part #3 OF VIDEOS - YouTube

Check out: Aidas / FreeEnergyLT / FreeEnergyLT

Also check out Overunity: Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

That's it.

Last edited by vidbid : 02-14-2012 at 09:51 PM.
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  #227 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:36 AM
ismael_34 ismael_34 is offline
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hello friends

I am pleased to inform you that a new video out Tariel kapanazge of 2004, this video shows the components hidden in the green box

KAPANADZE 20040428 5 KW energia gratis free energy - YouTube


Movimiento Continuo: kapagen actualizado
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  #228 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 12:35 PM
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ZincFold

Do you use ferrite core or plain self-iron ? Did you felt any strange bio effects if ferrite is used ? I plan to start fiddling with similiar concept but the amount of energy may be too high and I worry about ferrite core. Maybe it's just the effect of choose frequencies ?
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  #229 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:11 PM
ismael_34 ismael_34 is offline
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hola boguslaw

friend I can not say for certain whether the system uses core of Ferita, I think rather that the core is composed of copper tubes and some believe that the core is copper and aluminum windings forming a capacitor

sr 193 if sr was using a ferrite core but I do not think Tariel


chauuu
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File Type: jpg kapagen caja verde doble tubo.JPG (111.8 KB, 90 views)

Last edited by ismael_34 : 02-15-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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  #230 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:19 PM
ismael_34 ismael_34 is offline
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hola boguslaw

some believe that the core is an aluminum coil forming a capacitor


chauuuuu
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  #231 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:07 AM
bluebeard2011 bluebeard2011 is offline
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Exclamation new to kapagen

Ok I may be new to kapagen but I read every one is concerned more with the lux, and not how to save money. but what interested me the most was the attempt to patent a device that has public knowledge prior to patent attempt from my personal experience no patent will get granted if there was too much public knowledge about this device it is the first thing they look at and will be the biggest stumbling block he has in getting his patent and also the designs donít show a any percentage of difference to the original designs, Iím sorry but it just cost you a fortune in fees!!!! your solicitor should have advised you that because of the prior public knowledge to you submitting your patent attempt that it will not even make the first hurdle, but as for the device anyone could commercially produce the device and make money out of it without fear of a patent challenge .take my advice get a better lawyer as this one is not informing you will fail(he just wants your cash and hes most probably laughing every time you pay him )trust me Iíve been there as any device that the public is already aware you CANíT get a patent on it so take head and get some extra advice before wasting your fortune on trying to patent this as it will fail on the public knowledge alone sorry dude manufacture working units and make money that way as you just wasting it at moment trying to get a patent that just wonít get granted
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 11:02 PM
ismael_34 ismael_34 is offline
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hello friends

a new video, this time of the patent of 100 kw






100 kw de energia gratis.flv - YouTube
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  #233 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2012, 09:09 PM
johnfefe johnfefe is offline
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hi,

I have made an kapagen with mot cap an diode HV. I take good spark gap but I cannot take an AC voltage on my lamp. I read an ac voltage about 5v ac. I have 3 ground, the lamp ground is 15m far from my kapagen. What must I do? Have some an idea?
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  #234 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2012, 02:01 AM
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Thumbs up Dynatron

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Originally Posted by ismael_34 View Post
hello friends

a new video, this time of the patent of 100 kw

100 kw de energia gratis.flv - YouTube
That looks like the DYNATRON. You can see it at

БТГ

Regards,

Vidbid
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  #235 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2012, 01:49 PM
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Thumbs up Facebook Page for DYNATRON

Check it out: Dynatron | Facebook
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  #236 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2012, 04:06 PM
stoker_x1 stoker_x1 is offline
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Videos Removed, Why?

I am thinking of building a Kapagen Replication. This thread is a good starting place. I viewed the instructions at beginning of thread and glad someone took the time to post this information.

My problem is: Why have so many videos been removed from the web? I would like to see or watch a video that explains the build process as this could help reading between the lines.

Are there any video instructions in English that explain the process? Could someone post links?

I have build many circuits and have strong understanding about non conventional batteries that I would like to take to a new level with a project like this. I think that what I have learned in other research projects would go a long ways toward building a successful replication.

Thanks in advance!
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  #237 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:28 PM
Berg's Avatar
Berg Berg is offline
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Posts: 300
Lightbulb Radiant Battery Exciter Cirucit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

I would say that is where it's at.

Radiant Battery Exciter Cirucit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

See: Radiant Collector

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidbid View Post
One could say that there are two circuits at play here. The radiant collector and the radiant exciter.


The radiant exciter has the purpose of radiantly exciting the batteries, of which there are two.


The circuit is called a Brovin Kacher Radiant Exciter.

The circuit for the radiant collector is called a Tesla Radiant Collector.


Basic Schematic:


The input to the radiant exciter circuit is about 200mA; however, the radiant collector is not directly connected to the batteries. Output from the radiant collector circuit can be seen to be considerably more than the input to the exciter circuit.

More Detailed




Replication #1
HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/2JxunfyhtFI



Replication #2

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/vnHTtpPvsTQ


Replication #3

Diodes for Replication #3

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/nhbtOvNLnko
These diodes cost about $30US each.
Berg
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  #238 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:32 PM
Berg's Avatar
Berg Berg is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 300
Lightbulb Radiant Battery Exciter Circuit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

I would say that is where it's at.

Radiant Battery Exciter Circuit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

See: Radiant Collector

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidbid View Post
One could say that there are two circuits at play here. The radiant collector and the radiant exciter.


The radiant exciter has the purpose of radiantly exciting the batteries, of which there are two.


The circuit is called a Brovin Kacher Radiant Exciter.

The circuit for the radiant collector is called a Tesla Radiant Collector.


Basic Schematic:


The input to the radiant exciter circuit is about 200mA; however, the radiant collector is not directly connected to the batteries. Output from the radiant collector circuit can be seen to be considerably more than the input to the exciter circuit.

More Detailed




Replication #1
HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/2JxunfyhtFI



Replication #2

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/vnHTtpPvsTQ


Replication #3

Diodes for Replication #3

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/nhbtOvNLnko
These diodes cost about $30US each.
Berg
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  #239 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:35 PM
Berg's Avatar
Berg Berg is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 300
Lightbulb Radiant Battery Exciter Circuit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

I would say that is where it's at.

Radiant Battery Exciter Circuit & Radiant Collector Using AV Plug & Captret

See: Radiant Collector

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidbid View Post
One could say that there are two circuits at play here. The radiant collector and the radiant exciter.


The radiant exciter has the purpose of radiantly exciting the batteries, of which there are two.


The circuit is called a Brovin Kacher Radiant Exciter.

The circuit for the radiant collector is called a Tesla Radiant Collector.


Basic Schematic:


The input to the radiant exciter circuit is about 200mA; however, the radiant collector is not directly connected to the batteries. Output from the radiant collector circuit can be seen to be considerably more than the input to the exciter circuit.

More Detailed




Replication #1
HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/2JxunfyhtFI



Replication #2

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/vnHTtpPvsTQ


Replication #3

Replication #3

HTML Code:
http://youtu.be/nhbtOvNLnko
Diodes: 15Kv 4 Amp 100ns

These diodes cost about $30US each.
Berg
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  #240 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2012, 03:33 PM
uponit12 uponit12 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Wink Reasons people fail in kapagen build

I will just mention a few things in here which address a validity, organization, and general advice concerning the kapagen device. General: one of the main reasons you cannot find alot of people, amongst the long list of people who have built one of these, is due to the fact they wish to build the device, perhaps you could say "as is", and should be building a much small scaled down version which would be much easier to test and evaluate, as well as much cheaper. The second general reason is because people too often like to read schematics of details and pick and choose what they think makes the most sense, and what does not, and this error prevents them from every really building a working prototype, or simply claiming it does not work.

Validation and location of the parts you have missed, as referred to above: the kapagen device is not complicated at all, and relies completely on known and understood physics. If any of you have mentioned this device to someone with a Ph.D. perhaps at a school you have found that they claim it violates laws and therefore is wrong, but they are simply choosing not to acknowledge anything new, as they have no answers as to why it works. This is how it works: the schematic indicates it must have an input of energy to get it started, and this runs through a run of the mill transformer/diode/capacitor/sparkgap setup, and then into the only part of the device which is somewhat original the custom coil. I am not going to go any further because this is the single location of all failures. People read things about Tesla's ground current and think well I stick one metal rod here and one here and why am I not getting what was promised, and the answer is because you must read into the design. Similarly, people put everything together and put two poles in ground and turn it on and get ~96% return if they are diligent in design, however most get less. Well it should occur to the builder (I forgot the water bank which was buried in the ground). Getting a current to flow in the soil from one point to another still requires a potential difference people, and the water (excellent e- transfer medium) combined with the metal radiator (excellent e- transfer medium) will be able to get the available e-'s out of the soil.

This step is the only reason the actual kapagen device works, and is nearly always flawed or left out entirely. The common misconception, even on the jlnaudin site, is that the kapagen is designed to receive a continual input, and this is wrong. The device is designed to be started, with some load, and once running the input source is removed, and the ever important ground connections are put into action. It is designed in such a way that the potential difference will vary continuously, and it is in this difference the device will attempt t maintain the flow of current through the coil. Now an additional misconception, well how would my load get supplied without input energy won't it drop once I unplug the input? No, the coil was designed and is used with the understanding that it will try to maintain its equilibrium. This requires it pull from the ground more or less depending on the load, and the load only pulls from the magnetic field inside the coil. By pulling from the magnetic field the field will be disrupted and the coil will seek to reestablish equilibrium, and begin to pull from the only input remaining the two ground connections. If you have just to metal poles in ground at this point the potential difference will not allow for expansion and contraction of the variable need for e-'s and the magnetic field will fail.

when you look at it this way you might say why have I not thought of this complexity sooner, and the answer is it is natural to try and reduce complexity, and if done enough it can be subconscious. I have only seen one video to date where the device was connected correctly and worked as described above. For anyone building this device I highly recommend following the original kapagen schematic and not jlnaudin as it is wrong, and only try for an output which standard non-specialized meter equipment can handle to measure.

For those of you still reading you should be looking into device combinations, as each device has a weak spot, due to the fact the researcher was devoted to proving their idea correct, and failing to notice that they could have accomplished some components operations in an easier manner. I am currently working on a few hybrids and will be posting things to the internet for confirmation of what has been discussed here.
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