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  #151  
Old 06-11-2010, 03:42 AM
juju juju is offline
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thanks for the advice

ok

LOL

i will buy transformer to run in a 12V battery...

but this one is not similar to what the user romerouk from overunity is using?

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  #152  
Old 06-11-2010, 03:57 AM
vrand vrand is offline
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Originally Posted by juju View Post


EDIT: the transformer goes to ground to? im starting my coil can i use 1mm cable for the 6 turns coil? and for the other ones what is more appropriate? i have network cable of 0.5mm...

Hi Juju and all,

To replicate the Kagagen version done by Romerouk:

- the winding direction (woopy B )



Shows the winding directions: CCW - CW- CCW



Note: This schematic shows overall circuit layout with approx. tube coil dim.

The Ground rod connections need to be at least 10 meters apart. The further apart, the more energy gain.

- turns number of each coil (see diagram) with wire diameter 4mm stranded except the big coil = 10mm stranded.

- PVC tubing 5.5cm dia. X 40cm length X 5mm thick.

- 3 videos of how it works

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.1 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.2 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.0 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

- a lot of explanations about the MOt without or with diode and cap to rectify the current.

Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

Quote:
The capacitor is used in parallel with the load, that is the case when powering system with high voltage ac. It works ok without it but it kills the bulbs very easy. Having the capacitor connected it cancels some of the spark i get inside the bulbs.I think the solution is not high voltage ac, system is more stable and controlable using dc.That was my first attempt.I can see already more advantages using High Voltage DC.
Quote:
I am using one way rectifier diode with a 0.1uf capacitor
Quote:
I have connected capacitors in parallel with the load (0.5 - 2uf),
Romer so far shows in his latest videos 900 watts output for 250 watts input.

This is very similar to Jean Louis Naudin's design.

Regards, Mike R.
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Last edited by vrand; 06-11-2010 at 05:11 PM.
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  #153  
Old 06-11-2010, 03:58 AM
juju juju is offline
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...

its possible to find them on the electrnic store?

cosmo and dragon, check your private messages,

hugs
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  #154  
Old 06-11-2010, 04:06 AM
juju juju is offline
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...

hi mike

thank you very much...

just want to say that the input of romerouk is 240V 1.6A = 384watts!

the output may not be 900W, i will believe when i see volt/amps measurements!!


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  #155  
Old 06-11-2010, 04:19 AM
vrand vrand is offline
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Originally Posted by juju View Post
hi mike

thank you very much...

just want to say that the input of romerouk is 240V 1.6A = 384watts!

the output may not be 900W, i will believe when i see volt/amps measurements!!


Hi Juju,

Romeroud;s circuits so far:
Kapanadze replication v1.1 used 1.7A X 240ac = 408 watts input
Kapanadze replication v1.2 used 1.16A X 240ac = 281 watts input

JLN showed 239.5 watts in to 2100 watts out.

Getting close

Regards, Mike R.
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  #156  
Old 06-11-2010, 05:43 AM
juju juju is offline
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...

i think im going to test first with lower voltages...

is this circuit correct for a ignition coil?



its necessary to have some timer pulse circuit to the ignition coil?

EDIT: i want to use a 12V battery

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  #157  
Old 06-11-2010, 06:33 AM
vrand vrand is offline
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Originally Posted by juju View Post
i think im going to test first with lower voltages...

is this circuit correct for a ignition coil?



its necessary to have some timer pulse circuit to the ignition coil?

EDIT: i want to use a 12V battery

If using a NST then the wall 50hz will work.

If using a car Ignition coil then will need a pulse circuit. Maybe can use an old car ignition distributor, being turned manually by an electric drill hand tool. Otherwise can build a pulse circuit.

Why have that Red X on the drawing? You will still need that ground circuit.

Regards, Mike
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  #158  
Old 06-11-2010, 06:47 AM
juju juju is offline
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...

and where do i connect it?

what frequency should i pulse?

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  #159  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:54 AM
Xenomorph Xenomorph is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juju View Post
and where do i connect it?

what frequency should i pulse?

Who can know that hehe?
Try 30 kHz, thatīs standard range for NSTs.
The thing is that an ignition coil outputs much more than 2000 Volt (like a MOT)
That will most likely kill your light bulbs, because the system is designed for that voltage range, but i can be wrong. Maybe if you clamp the output voltage down with a suited component it will work.
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  #160  
Old 06-11-2010, 04:01 PM
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Take care con common ground on coil car

Please first excuse me... I've not working on this thread for beginning...

Use a coil car is a excellent idea but I think common ground or (-) can generates problems looking original diagram seems insulated the ground electrically. Reading Bearden theories then poyinting flow can loose himself because is phissically connected. But look in the Coils with common core only magnetics current can pass to the another wire.

I would like to try it but I've a year working about a plan to replicate the OU effect of Tesla Switch and Bedini Watson.

I hope give them results OU sooner...

Good research. Keep working.
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  #161  
Old 06-11-2010, 05:10 PM
vrand vrand is offline
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Originally Posted by patmac View Post
Please first excuse me... I've not working on this thread for beginning...

Use a coil car is a excellent idea but I think common ground or (-) can generates problems looking original diagram seems insulated the ground electrically. Reading Bearden theories then poyinting flow can loose himself because is phissically connected. But look in the Coils with common core only magnetics current can pass to the another wire.

I would like to try it but I've a year working about a plan to replicate the OU effect of Tesla Switch and Bedini Watson.

I hope give them results OU sooner...

Good research. Keep working.
Forgot to mention in the Kapagen designsthe Ground rod connections need to be at least 10 meters apart.

The further apart, the better the energy gain.

Regards
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  #162  
Old 06-11-2010, 05:55 PM
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Jules Tresor Jules Tresor is offline
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Theory behind it

Happy find !
I was guided to open the book from Eric Dollard "Condensed Intro to Tesla Transformers" and found the 3 coils circuit you are using in the KAPAGEN.



Eric Dollard explains all the theory and the parameters to follow for best results.
A must buy here, 20 USD only : Nikola Tesla - Condensed Intro to Tesla Transformers by Eric P. Dollard | Borderland Sciences Research Catalog (Powered by CubeCart)

I selected a few quotations from the booklet to give you hunger to order it !
http://tesla3.com/images/forum/Tesla...ransformer.pdf
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  #163  
Old 06-11-2010, 09:27 PM
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dllabarre dllabarre is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo-lv View Post
Only want to say, that coil is wrong
Can you be more specific?
Is the coil wound wrong?
Too many coils?
The wire looped back in the middle of the coil wrong?

Thank you,
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  #164  
Old 06-12-2010, 07:33 AM
baroutologos baroutologos is offline
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Originally Posted by dragon View Post

Unfortunately, I'm still struggling with that portion of the conversion as the voltage is still quite high and with the right spark gap I can create a bright blue light when the bulb no longer conducts through its resistive element and the gas glows.

My intention was to find a way to reduce the voltage and convert it to amperage on the waste side of the device ( load to ground ).
Hello dragon,

I have investigated the effect that toubles you. The common light bulbs will work at HF currents as far they work on low potential. If they go above a certain potential, the fillament will produce a blue flame and eventually not light at all as a bulb near a Tesla coil.

This i have found replicating Tesla's electrical conversion and distribution patent.

The easier thing you can do to alleviate this problem is to diminish spark-gap voltage breakdown. Instead of 2-3 KV go to 1Kv.
If then your capacitance fires a lot or the gap is bridged then increase capacitance and keep voltage low same time. This will boost current and keep voltage to suitable levels for lamp use.
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  #165  
Old 06-12-2010, 12:48 PM
EMCSQ EMCSQ is offline
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@cosmo-lv

Please have a look to the last PM I sent to you.
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  #166  
Old 06-12-2010, 02:17 PM
EMCSQ EMCSQ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrand View Post
Hi Juju and all,

To replicate the Kagagen version done by Romerouk:

- the winding direction (woopy B )



Shows the winding directions: CCW - CW- CCW



Note: This schematic shows overall circuit layout with approx. tube coil dim.

The Ground rod connections need to be at least 10 meters apart. The further apart, the more energy gain.

- turns number of each coil (see diagram) with wire diameter 4mm stranded except the big coil = 10mm stranded.

- PVC tubing 5.5cm dia. X 40cm length X 5mm thick.

- 3 videos of how it works

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.1 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.2 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

YouTube - Kapanadze replication v1.0 - Kapagen coil Jean-Louis Naudin

- a lot of explanations about the MOt without or with diode and cap to rectify the current.

Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze







Romer so far shows in his latest videos 900 watts output for 250 watts input.

This is very similar to Jean Louis Naudin's design.

Regards, Mike R.
Due to my investigation Windings like shown in alternative B makes sense.
The middle wire in the coil is a must. Those who are familiar with this subject should respond.
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  #167  
Old 06-12-2010, 03:03 PM
dragon dragon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baroutologos View Post
Hello dragon,

I have investigated the effect that toubles you. The common light bulbs will work at HF currents as far they work on low potential. If they go above a certain potential, the fillament will produce a blue flame and eventually not light at all as a bulb near a Tesla coil.

This i have found replicating Tesla's electrical conversion and distribution patent.

The easier thing you can do to alleviate this problem is to diminish spark-gap voltage breakdown. Instead of 2-3 KV go to 1Kv.
If then your capacitance fires a lot or the gap is bridged then increase capacitance and keep voltage low same time. This will boost current and keep voltage to suitable levels for lamp use.


Hello baroutologos, I'd really like to shut down the HV on the output and improve the amperage. I have no real use for "lighting bulbs", for realworld use heat and energy storage is useful. Lighting really isn't a problem. Below shows a unit I put together about 2 years ago, primarily for driving a resistive load. Designed to drive a resistive heating load, works with any resistive load. It has 5 - 100 watt bulbs and 1 500 watt halogen... all the lights I had to get the resistance close to where I needed it. My camera compensates for the lighting but they are indeed all at full bright and producing lots of heat. The input for that set up ( 14 ohms all in parallel ) is 618 watts. That unit is designed for a 10 ohm load and will run a 1200-1500 watt heater at or around 500 watts. Only 2 components, no spark gap or HV.

I run my house from wind and solar so efficiency is the primary goal although it would be nice to find another reasonable "alternate" source for battery charging. Winters are brutal for energy demand.

Everyone seems to be pushing toward driving the bulbs with brute force on the Kapanadze replication using the MOT's, I chose a low output NST to try to find the reason it appears to work without input/or a very low input requirement. Results are easier to see if you've made any gains on output if you only have a certain input to work with. I modeled the coil around tesla's patent with an added reversed transformer effect... the second picture showing the tesla patent. This works reasonably well to convert the HV into amperage on the waste side but still the voltage is higher than I'd like to see. Anything below 2000 volts from the NST seems is difficult to keep a spark gap steady. My adjustable spark gap is set up with Tungsten steel tips which has helped considerably in altering output and making changes on the fly.

I'd like to try an experiment posted by Armegdn03 (video) a page ago or so that actually looks promising in creating the elastic bubble or bounce we seem to be looking for as well as a possible clue into what exactly is in the center of the kapanadze coil. Possibly an adjustable cap to compensate for the earth ground capacitance and regulate frequencies into and out of the ground. There is still some confusion on the earth connections as to what is gained by them.

Experimenting and building is fun in any case and usually leads to other ideas....
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  #168  
Old 06-12-2010, 08:49 PM
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dragon, Can you elaborate or show the circuit you are using to get a heater type load to work from you ~600 watts input? I also am trying to keep winter heating affordable and I'm very interested in anything that can help toward that. I've got a 12 KV 'Franceformer' brand NST I'm thinking about trying with the TK device and would be interested in any experience you've had with hooking that up also for this setup. I've been following the OU thread also and see bolt had some good thoughts on how to use an NST for this.
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  #169  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:26 AM
dragon dragon is offline
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Originally Posted by ewizard View Post
dragon, Can you elaborate or show the circuit you are using to get a heater type load to work from you ~600 watts input? I also am trying to keep winter heating affordable and I'm very interested in anything that can help toward that. I've got a 12 KV 'Franceformer' brand NST I'm thinking about trying with the TK device and would be interested in any experience you've had with hooking that up also for this setup. I've been following the OU thread also and see bolt had some good thoughts on how to use an NST for this.
ewizard, it's just a basic series LCR adjusting the resonance to 60 hz. I used a MOT(primary only) which had an inductance of 49mh, a motor run cap of 96uf with a 10 ohm load.

I've run it with several wire wound heaters all work well producing the same output temp as it would normally plugged in. I also tried some newer baseboard heaters with a resistive core type element and it didn't work as well with those. They work with a little decrease in output temp but the MOT runs warmer than I'd like. It seems fine with the wire wound units.. not sure what the difference is between them. 1200-1500 watt units work well with the above components.

It alters the internal frequency and will not run induction motors properly so if you have something with a fan in it the fan will have to run on an external 60hz source.

Be sure to insulate the output of the secondary( not used ), it will still generate very high voltages in it. Any transformer with a primary of around the same inductance rated for the power of the heater or slightly higher will work. Discount Electronic Components ? Tedss.com is a good source for the motor run caps in any size...
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  #170  
Old 06-13-2010, 06:40 AM
vrand vrand is offline
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Hello baroutologos, I'd really like to shut down the HV on the output and improve the amperage. I have no real use for "lighting bulbs", for realworld use heat and energy storage is useful.
The Kapagen is powering incandescent light bulbs that has a small lighting heating resistor element. It should be be able to be used to power an electric heater as well.

Jean Louis COP of 8 is showing something special is happening with the Kapagen design. There are several others also reproducing the Kapagen with success.

I know of no other FE device that an independent researcher has replicated that puts out 100's to 1000's of watts of power.

Even when our own Tutanka shows how he powers his engine on his special gas mix, that still has not been verified by a 3rd party reproduction. Another member Eric Dollard also have not explained how he powers his radios on his FE device, so that others could try to reproduce and verify that it works.

The key here is that this is the first time a FE device has been independently reproduced that these power levels. This is getting close to being able to power our homes (at least our light needs).

Regards, Mike
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  #171  
Old 06-13-2010, 08:48 AM
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The_italian The_italian is offline
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Do you now what is factor of power ?

It is called also "cos φ".

Power factor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

it is wrong to measure current and then multiply voltage current.
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  #172  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:39 PM
cosmo-lv cosmo-lv is offline
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Kapanadze device is based on one wire electricity and the coil outside the green Tariel`s device is real transformer who transforms two processes into one.

Coil alone not working and newer works - without some specific processes.!
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  #173  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:54 PM
broli broli is offline
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Kapanadze device is based on one wire electricity and the coil outside the green Tariel`s device is real transformer who transforms two processes into one.

Coil alone not working and newer works - without some specific processes.!
Can someone ban this troll please.
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  #174  
Old 06-13-2010, 01:44 PM
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Can someone ban this troll please.
Why ? IMHO He is saying with sense.
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  #175  
Old 06-13-2010, 01:58 PM
broli broli is offline
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He's playing mind games. People are building and making good progress and he keeps nudging them "you're doing it wrong", with his sage knowledge without ever being specific or contributing in a constructive way. These "I know the secret but you need to solve my puzzle" are as worse as the arm chair skeptics or disinfo agents in my book. We do not have time to play these games. I don't know how many years this forum has been up, people like him have come and gone without contributing anything besides getting their 5 min of fame. They are useless and need to be weeded out to avoid distractions.
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  #176  
Old 06-13-2010, 02:05 PM
baroutologos baroutologos is offline
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@ Cosmo,

Everyone here is fed up with theorizers claiming to know all.
It seems to me that you speak with OU confidence.

Show your setup, meters, state efficiency claims and principle of operation and then we investigate your views.

Otherwise, please go play to another kindergarden
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  #177  
Old 06-13-2010, 02:44 PM
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dllabarre dllabarre is offline
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@cosmo

Please answer my PM I sent the other day.

Thanks,
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  #178  
Old 06-13-2010, 03:33 PM
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broli - Thank You!

dllabarre - take a look on answer

P.S. i only thalk with them who want to cnow - and want to build and experiment and do something, but i`m not talking with theses who saying i`m playing games.

this is not game! i`m not here to playing games!
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  #179  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:28 PM
EMCSQ EMCSQ is offline
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@cosmo-lv

It would be nice, if you would answer my PM too.
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  #180  
Old 06-13-2010, 05:23 PM
dragon dragon is offline
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other experiments

If a post doesn't seem to offer any real insight to solving a problem then simply ignore it, if it does then apply it. There is no reason to clutter up a good thread with complaints or verbal pissing wars.

Getting back on topic here is a simple experiment that I had done several months ago using a small NST, spark gap and 15 watt bulb. I wrapped a dozen or so winds of heavy speaker wire around a well pipe and drove the load with a single output lead of the NST. It worked quite well... the NST was one from allelectronics ( 2000v 10ma 12 volt unit $6.50). It would light the 15 watt 120v bulb to near full bright with an input of around 400ma at 12.5 volts. The spark gap wasn't real stable but it was enough to inspire me to continue on. Below is a diagram of the experiment
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