Hi David,

I posted a quick response on You-Tube - here is the link to that:

Depth of Field

At one point it looked like you may have spun the device and we saw some changes, but I couldn't see the vortexes.

This is really hard to do - I did some trials with a smaller mirror I have here but it is badly distorted and useless. I did find though, that using a piece of paper as screen is very helpful in determining the exact focal points of the lens ( I used a magnifying glass) and the mirror image. One of the problems I found is that light was making it around my lens to the mirror and was interfering. So I had to make mask for it so only the light from the lens reached the mirror. I used a hole in paper to partially occlude the light and that didn't work. It needs to be the razor slit to prevent interference.

About the best thing I could get was a weblike interference pattern which you can see with your naked eye if you look at a light source through a very tiny aperture. It will look like a web across the opening. You can do this with your thumbs and forefingers to make a small hole where the four meet together and adjust it until it is almost closed up. Well, I had that pattern across the whole mirror surface and projected that onto a paper screen so I could view it from the backside.

It was a lot of fun, but I never got any schlieren shadows. I think it really takes a big mirror with a spherical grind.

Cheers,

David Thomson has possibly found gravity waves via a magnetic scalar detector. Possibly better defined as longitudinal waves (as Dollard explains).

Magnetic Scalar Waves

I did not view all 22 pages, so sorry if this is a repeat.

after i energized my device i turned the rotor over...try that......the schlieren method is tricky....at the focal point is where the filter must be check out ians new rig..... to ian....my last video is better........david

alink to gustavs work

Maybe someone should eat some psychadelics and tell you what's going on around it......
Just kidding.....





Or maybe not

you can energize the device after assembly...a compass will tell you when you have lock ...the mating surfaces need to be semi smooth ... leave the zinc on...energize it upside down first...then turn it over and try it just a thought...david

i thought about that!...PM me and i will tell you what some people see

hey dave, My crazy paranoid uncle will delete this post tomorrow but anyway.. I owe u an explanation for what u got there... I'll do u a trade off. U a plumber. Tell me y a good water hammer does not stop. no input .no air leak. that annoying noise just keeps going regardless of physics. There a million ways to fix it but no ways to take advantage of it. Anyway bro. I built a few contraptions to utilize the hammer but they failed badly.Give me a heads up on the hammer, or at least an idea ..and i will tell u the missing component u need for your device. lol. i tell u anyway regardless. just that u the only plumber i know.

water does not compress easily....water hammer can be caused by this...an air "bladder" or water hammer arrest-er [a way to trap a small volume of air in the system] can help...the other thing to try would be is anywhere a pipe goes through wood, make sure that the pipe is isolated from the wood...the pipe should not move around much. ..we used felt isolators in the past, the new style is plastic...i might suggest for a retro fit using felt or heavy cloth to isolate the pipe from the wood...this i would try first....there are other factors that are unknown ..the kind of pipe...house,apartment, mansion etc....well or domestic supply.......let me know if this helps......today is SATURDAY.....good videos for sure tonight......david.....i saw a video about an inventor who used somethinglike that...cant remember his name

Ok. brother..... crystal diode.

Link; YouTube - FUELLESS HEATER NO FUEL NO GAS NO WOOD NO GREEN HOUSE GASES

Here is a start to a neat search. It is about four or five years old but gaining ground. This guy decided to capitalize on the water hammer and has now produced and sold a few systems. FWIW

Sorry! I know this is off topic but the answer has to be presented where the question was asked. Right?

Warren
..

hey. i seen that five years ago as well? do u wanna help me improve on that?

In my research on this subject I found there were actually two different types of noise, 'water hammer' and spontaneous resonant vibration. These are both caused by different things but produce a similar noise and are allowed by the plumbing for similar reasons - resonant pipes.

Water Hammer is caused by an abrupt stop of current flow in the pipe that sends a subsequent reflected shockwave back through the pipes to the source. This is a product of the water inertia and a resonant pipe configuration sympathetic to reflected waves.

Here is a page on calculating water hammer with transient analysis:
Water Hammer Applet. Calculation, Equations, Formulas. Hydraulic Transients

Spontaneous Resonant Vibration is caused by pressure changes in a static pipe where something attached to the system is flexible or where dissolved gases in the water are allowed to decompress. In the case of the flexible attachment, this is often a toilet valve or other valve that opens under greater pressure just a small amount and then closes just as soon as the pressure drops creating an oscillation. In some cases the flexible object does not even have to pass water current but just has to drop the pipe pressure enough to relax. When the pipes are resonant to that action it can continue until the pressure energy is dissipated or the resonance disrupted. In the case of the dissolved gases, this is a very problematic case that is nearly impossible to correct and is generally characterized by specific thermal activity i.e. certain temperature variations. So persons complain that in the spring or in the fall this just seems to begin out of nowhere.

The latter case is the one of greatest interest to energy researchers because it demonstrates a means to extract kinetic energy from the thermal environment. Anyone that has experienced this first hand will recognize that the energy exchange is huge, causing vibrations that can literally move wooded floors visually (over 1/2" that I have personally witnessed) along with the hundreds of pounds of weight on those floors including me weighing it at about 245 pounds. So where does all this energy come from? It is usually gravitational potential energy stored in the city water tank as water pressure. When the thermal conditions are just right, gases in the water can decompress changing the volume of the water and increasing the pressure. This event sends a small wave back to the source just like water hammer, but not quite as violently. As the wave energy moves back, the pressure drops and more gas is released out of the water (like opening a soda bottle) and once this occurs you now have 'air' in your line. The wave moves to the city storage and is again reflected back (in reality it generally reflects back off the water meter or a TEE connection somewhere) to the place where the decompression occurred. If the pressure, temperature (often controlled by a water heater on the system) and pipe flexibility is just right, the gases will compress and cause a rapid pressure drop. This creates a true water hammer just as if someone has shut off the valve. This event can build in resonance to such an extent that you think it will tear the house apart. In this case the temperature must change or the gases must be removed. I have witnessed such a violent case of this that even with all the pipes flowing in the house the resonance continued - an extreme case, but it gives an idea as to how much energy is involved in this process.

Actually, it may be closer to on-topic than we may realize!

Notice the action occurring in this video:
YouTube - SPR Cavitation Dye Test

And the descriptor of what is happening here:
R&D - Hydro Dynamics, Inc.

I can't help but see a similarity between the top view profile of David's elements and the cavity used in those SPR rotors.

Could it be that David is getting a similar cavitation in the elements with air? Perhaps the relative humidity and dew point are critical factors

Just exploring all the possibilities here

and now we return to the "Gravity Waves found" discussion and the Saturday videos....

@ David

What is the procedure to knowing that the wheel is locked? What does the compass do that is different when the wheel is locked? What should I be looking for?

I was of the opinion that each side of each part would show a different pole but that is now what I got. Instead, I got four poles, two norths and two souths. I assumed the wheel was locked having gotten that far. Thinking that two norths and two souths was a locked wheel isn't so very far fetched since a washer shaped magnet has just that as does the cylinder magnet in the fan motors I've hacked. Now I'm finding other motors with even more poles in them.

Warren
..

@ Vickers -- I have to decline your offer, especially since it was offered to David and he hasn’t declined. Besides, I’m up to my eyebrows with the projects I’ve chosen to do and I’m sinking. Closure on these projects eludes me. You also need to know that I’m wired a bit different from most folk. My thinking goes in a far different route than the major highways.

@ Harvey – Thank you for your continued support. I believe you believe that everything is connected to everything else……..somehow. The trick is to find that common denominator and then figure out how to apply it.

I need to say that if I needed a roll model you would be it. I don’t remember ever seeing an unkind word from you. There is a depth of perception I see that is quite uncommon. Moreover, you have a certain tact and finesse I could only dream about.

Keep up the good works all.

Warren
..

FWIW

I believe, and have already stated so, that David just might have developed a magnetic gate.

Link1; YouTube - Discovering Magnetism Magnetic Gates Howard Johnson 2006 part 1

Link2; Bedini's Magnetic Gate

In link1, the first five minutes are the important ones. They describe the magnetic gate there and the use for it.

In link2; there is a John Bedini diagram of a magnetic gate.

In words; a magnetic gate is where all the like poles face the same way and ATTRACT the same pole! This would be in line with Ed Leedskalnin, JD Searle, and others, though no one ever comes right out and says “magnetic gate.” The trick is to figure out how to eliminate and/or weaken one magnetic pole.

I think David has accomplished this feat. From the effects David sees and I’ve felt I can only draw that conclusion. The resistance I felt at the center of the wheel would be like eddy currents in aluminum or copper as a magnet passes; especially since I could only feel them with non-ferrous metals. How else could a marine compass with an aluminum case get magnetized and not affect the magnet inside? And, why doesn’t that magnetism affect the contained compass? I DON’T UNDERSTAND ALL I KNOW!! And I’ll know more after Wednesday when I get some more materials to try a second shot at it.

One thing I noticed when I was taking my rig down the other day was the disparity in THE SOUND OF THE PARTS. I may have taken too much material from the insides to cause this change. I’m having them examined to see exactly how much difference in tone there is between the parts. Ed played around with frequencies so are harmonics out of the ballpark? It would really be something if David got the harmonics right the very first try, however he did it. Of course, the only way to find out is to disassemble the only working model and test each part. THAT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA AT ALL!

I hope the Saturday market went well. I’ll be looking for the videos.

Warren
..

i have had so many different configs of pmh... with a toroid and single junction, i had as many as 6 poles....the config now seems to have 4.....when i say lock, i am not saying a strong lock...just strong enough to get the "flux"path to lock and start an orbit of force inside the metal.....the compass when placed in the center and then energizing, usually the needle will spin first, then stop at a different point than the beginning...i had the rotor on upside down at first but after i switched it i did re energize it..your setup seemed to be doing all the same things as mine, great work... ...the effects i listed are subtle...but they are there! ...sorry about not getting back to every one, please forgive me..saturday market......why do people not like to be filmed....plenty of people saw the wave ....nobody wanted their picture taken...maybe it does steal their spirit!?....any way i hope this helps ...also it seems that to get the best visible effect, after its working again, hold a weight of steel or iron over center axis, around 10 degrees off towards north and spin it ...you should feel a spot where it pulls down the most.....thanks...david

David, the pipe has arrived. I can start building. If you have something to add or suggest, please do.
I will document everything.
Thanks,
Jetijs

Let's hear it for international delivery success

galvanized pipe is usually a bit bumpy - but David did say "leave the Zinc on" - so... I guess it means just smooth off the bumps where they connect right?

BTW - I was looking at Ed's rig and noticed there are 4 coils permanently wired at each indent of the cloverleaf ring. Also, in his writing he mentions using a coil to enhance the magnetism of the 'generator'.

Also - I did not know that he moved everything to a new location after he was almost finished at the old place. I've been learning a lot the last couple of days

Thank you for your kind words

I've been learning new things here, so this is fresh for me. I would like to hear more about the magnetic Aluminum and its specific interactions. I was thinking how could it be magnetized and yet not effect the compass reading. One way would be if there were U shaped flux channels in the material like so:

<<< Needle ^ Here<<<
------------------------
===================
===================
nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn


So the upper part is normal Aluminimum, but the bottom layer has those U-turn paths that can be like Ferromagnetic material and even hold a magnetic charge.

hi everyone, i will be posting the video and link in a moment.Yes about the zinc,smooth the bumps down to get good contact, for the most part leave the zinc on. I will be going step by step through all of it.I will try to answer all questions.I know there are easier way's to cut the pipe, but I will show you how I cut it. More soon!.....dave...here is the link....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jjh5OE6yerk...thanks...part 2;YouTube - step by step #2..........part 3;YouTube - step by step #3

i am starting the build videos and should be done tomorrow ...i will be free after that ...or if you are in the neighborhood, stop by...and saturday market was educational...i need a cameraperson to capture the moment they see the wave...i will try next week.....thru october!......david

David,
I have cut the pipe you sent me in 12 pieces, each 2" long. And all those pieces are cut in half.



Tomorrow I will see what HDPE boards I have at my disposal and continue the work. I will go slowly and do everything according to your videos to get everything as close as possible to your setup.
Thanks!
Jetijs

damn JET.........your attention to detail is more than admirable

as we say over here........ you're a good'en

Thanks Rave
It also turned out that the laser unit is now repaired and I will have my laser cut Leedskalnin wheel any time soon. I noticed, that Davids pipe material is much softer than anything I used before, this might or might not be important

JET.........go easy with the laser cutting thing.........this might be one of those things......where.........elbow grease pays dividends.......the laser "might".......affect things in a way we cant fathom as yet