Slayer:
You are now showing a 1n4148 diode, and a 1 meg resistor. My question is:
How can you can light the led(s) off of a 1.5 volt battery, using such high resistance? Is this correct?

The higher the value of resister that I've used, the less light I get, and the lower the resistor value is , the hotter the transistor gets. I've already cooked three 2n2222, using 6 to 12 volts. I am still using the Jt set up mentioned in my previous pics, and video, with the L3 off of the control, and an earth ground off of the base.

I would like to be able to use my 4.5 AH 12 volt battery as the input source, and light as many leds as possible, using the most efficient and strongest Exciter coil system, to obtain the most amount of light output from the leds.

I've had wireless working up to one yard away from the L3, but not for long, before the little 2n2222 go up in smoke. Maybe I need to use bigger coils with higher resistance to ovoid overheating?
Any suggestions are welcome

NickZ

@ Diljalaay
The current used in the video was around 90mA.

@Nickz
Yes the resistor is a 1M.Once this is started you can remove the resistor and it will stay running.

With the basic Exciter with the indicator light I would use a larger coil.
The coil I use is around 3 X 14 inches around 1000 turns.

The featured video I have on my UT page is my favorite setup.
I replaced the led with a second pancake coil just like my primary coil.

I thought that this video (below) was an interesting use of the Jt circuit, using the tuning cap, magnet, and short across the toroid. As it is similar to the circuit that I've been using, it may also be adapted to a wireless Exciter use, by adding an L3 to the transistor C, but I have not tried that yet.
Joule Thief Shorted.10 times more light. - YouTube

@ Slayer:
I had no luck with the mod to my exciter circuit using a two turn L2 wound around the small L3 tower coil. I'll keep at it though, as I'd really like to see this work as you are showing.
NickZ

@Nickz
Your setup is a little different than mine.I have the L2 pancake coil around the L1 coil with the L3 coil sitting by the L1 coil and the second pancake coil or L4 just sitting off by its self.
The L4 coil was inplace of the led indicator light.


@All
In my last video I had the leds across the collector and emitter.
In this video I will show the positive side of the leds in between the diode and trigger coil.
And then the negative side going to the collector the base and then the emitter.

JT Exciter Load Points - YouTube

Thank you for your reply.
I will try to reproduce your set up as best as I can in the future. Even though I keep burning the transistors for no obvious reason, I've ordered more of the 2n2222, 1 meg resistors, etz... so that I can follow this work, as they may be a critical part to this effect.
There is something which I'm also seeing, which is how the leds can light with practically no current, or voltage at times. I believe this to be something that may relate to what the Doc has mentioned concerning not just the normal HF resonance, but also that other more illusive spacial coherence factor. Which is the real important part of this work, to further understand and to be able to also reproduce that effect in the different devices.
I really appreciate your hard work and dedication to this very important anomaly, and will do my best to follow through with this.

NickZ

Hi all

i am sure we can get the same results with a very low power Slayer exciter

good luck at all

Laurent

charging by induction approach 1.wmv - YouTube

Thank you Woopy. Interesting video, also.
I use an aluminum sheet next to my LAB's and get good wireless range up to 3 or 4 feet. The best I've had was about 5 feet, so far.
I've also had interesting wireless results using just a single AA battery, but when I used my 12volt battery the other day to increase the range, the TIP31 blew up in my face. So, I'm back to working with lower voltages for now, until I figure this out. Most transistors, other than the 2n2222 or kn2222a have not worked very well for me.
Lasersaber has mentioned that he has seen some interesting things happen even without the base circuit connected. And Slayer has mentioned that once his circuit starts the base resistor can even be removed. All very intriguing....
I've got more transistors on order, and a face shield. Ha!!!

NickZ

@NickZ - I don't know if this helps, but remember MrFlatHunter's recent 30V printer power supply forays ?
I've emulated that system, using an A1941 and it runs fine. Here's the datasheet: http://www.semicon.toshiba.co.jp/doc...eet_101102.pdf
It's nothing too fancy, was taken from a CRT monitor chassis. What really seemed to help, was a large pair of resistors of about 3K on the power input. The output remained very strong and the tranny stopped overheating.
By using a remote pop bottle type tower and AV plug LED, with 1 wire from one leg of the LED to a heatsink, i'm getting a 6ft range. An LED on an AV plug will light to 4ft in the hand (with my own body on the outer side).
Fair enough it's 30V, but the range is great and no exploding transistor

Here's a pic of the tower. I'll hope to make a video or two using it. Basics are that it's ~1000 turns of 30 gauge on a 3 1.2" OD x 14" high PVC pipe. A polystyrene ball is covered with kitchen foil on the top. The Primary is internal of 3 turns.
Coffee cup for size comparison.



Main thing though, balancing resistance on the input to transistor output may save things at higher voltages

Slider and All:
Thank you for the info. Yes, I've also had to use some different transistors and resistors, as I've gone through a few of my most useful ones now, and I'm many miles from the nearest Radio Shack.
I still don't understand how the 1 meg resistor will fire up the transistor, mine will fire without it, but not with it on. The highest resistance that has worked is 100k, but the transistor will cook with even that on the base, at 12volts input. Something kicks in, and the circuit works great at over an arms distance away from the L3, until the smoke starts up.
I also have several entire crt monitor pc board parts to chose from, and I'm a scavenger, like yourself.
Free is the best price... but with this device exact parts are what is needed. Although, if the shoe fits... I wear it.
I'm hooked on working on this now, and won't give up, as I've seen the light, at least at times... and my heart jumps for joy when it happens.
I'm more into making Jonny's tiny 2cm L3s, over the bigger 3 inch by 14in ones now. As it's amazing that he can get about the same results with that size ferrite core, "tower"?
The kacher videos have also been quite interesting...

I've now taken a couple more radios apart for their variable tuning capacitors, ferrite rods, resistors, etz.. and have also installed a new improved outside grounding rod system to make the most out of this effect.
But, the Big Bertha is on my must do list.
Anyways, I'm hard at it... "thanks at all", or something like that, like Woopy says....

NickZ

I'm about 3 miles from our RS, but it's not worth bothering with. They don't even have lead-free solder, let alone the transformers everyone is using for lighting at the moment. Pretty much all of it is big TV's, cellphones and boxed computers. Oh, there are the odd co-ax connectors, but really somewhere like Walmart is just as good for parts in the automotive section !

Speaking of parts...glad to hear about the CRT chassis. You'll find excellent 1500V transistors bolted to the flyback aluminium. Some have TIP series transistors in them, nearly all will have IRF630 and equiv MOSFETS.
I built a copy of the SEC 18 of Dr. Stiffler's purely from CRT chassis parts, runs from an AA

As far as resistance on the Base..and i'm no EE, so is just an understanding. The Positive supply goes directly to one end of the L1, the other end of it connects to the Collector. So powering of the Primary is based on the always connected Positive supply and the firings of the transistor to the other end of it.
The resistor stops the full supply voltage hitting the transistor Base, or it would never switch. It would be constantly seeing nothing but the overpowering full supply voltage, anything that the L2 may do would be swamped. To do anything, the transistor needs to switch rapidly, turn on the Collector, then receive the pulse back from the L2 into the Base to continue again.
With a resistor of 1meg, most emphasis is being placed on the feedback from the L2. A 1K will work fine, but more draw will be seen on the circuit, through the transistor. In other words, wasted as heat for the switching function we are using it for and more so with more voltage. Add high hFE (amplified current) and the transistor can heat up very quickly.
The 1Meg translates as a power limiter, but enables enough Positive to initially kick start the transistor into that feedback condition of L1 and L2 interaction.
Often, the resistor can be pulled once oscillations start, the L2 is now active and the Positive supply is no longer needed into the Base. The current the transistor then uses is dictated by the L1/L2 interaction and loading of them
Where a circuit only runs at certain set resistances (like never with a 1meg resistor) then a tuning LED becomes really handy. It's just the standard Emitter to Base connection, with the Positive leg of the LED connected to the Emitter (conventionally would be wrong way around). The feedback will run down the LED to ground and allows careful tuning of the L1. The brighter the LED, the better set up the circuit is. Once set up and the LED bright, you should be able to throw in a 1Meg resistor and it start up fine, while using less input energy to do so and resulting in a cooler transistor.

Very nice explanation, and well laid out. It does answer a couple of my questions. That was what I needed to know, as well as any other guys out there that are just starting to work with this unusual circuit.
I also wondered why the circuit would work fine at times, then not fire at all, if anything was changed in trying increase the wireless effect generation.
Needless to say, it was all very frustrating.
Thank you, for that explanation. It really does help.

BTW: I find that my empty beer cans make for great wireless repeaters, and that CFL bulbs also radiate their own wireless output up to several inches away from the bulbs.
If using a rabbit ears antenna on my Tv, when the wireless signal from the Exciter is not right, the Tv reception is lost completely, even though it is several yards away. Good thing I'm not in an apartment building.

Nick

Just checked out this Kacher circuit, and what do you know...
Brovin / Kacher Generator (Invention and Operating Principle) - YouTube

Such a coincidence... or is it?

@ Slider:
I wanted to take the time to give you a big big THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I took your advice, and my Exciter system is now working as it should. NO HEAT on the transistor, or anything else.
This heat issue was not a small matter, as it was not possible to continue until the meltdown was corrected. Now it is. All that was necessary was a resistor on the 12v battery positive. I placed a 3 k (or so) on it, and my troubles are over, and the system is still stronger than ever.
Now I can get back to making new coils, and trying different components, and on with the experiments.

I've found that the transistors that come in the gutted CFLs can also sometimes be used, although not all will work, especially if they are the cause of the CFL not working. But, the 2n2222 are still the best for this purpose, by far.

This issue has had me stopped from the beginning, after burning out all my best most useful pots, resistors, leds, and even having the bigger and stronger transistors blow up in my face.
I started pulling my hair out by the roots...

I am now able to work on the wireless aspect, tests, and improvements.
So, once again, thank you very much, Slider, you've saved my day.
I'm a happy camper, now...
NickZ

Delighted to help out and congrats
A while back, I tried a variable pot and, perhaps obviously, it didn't last too long before melting down. So the only thing to remember is that little 1/8W resistors are no good.
With turning the transistor frying into heat on the front end, it's perhaps only a shunting of power to a less critical component, but it saves the transistors.

I can't explain it myself, it is still a mistery to me, just how or why that resistor makes a difference, but it does. Putting the same 3k resistor on the base, does not work, but putting it on the positive of the battery rail, and the transistor is stone cold, wireless working up to a foot of more away from the coil. I'm currently using a 100 k resistor on the base, with a small pot also. the 1n4148 diode between the emiter and base also seams to help. Outside ground to the base, doubles the light output.
The battery voltage reading at the transistor is about 6.5 volts, with the device running off of a 12v, 4.5 mAh LAB. I'll try to increase voltage carefully while keeping an eye on the transistor heat, as the wireless range is increased.
I am still having a bit of a hard time trying to figuring where to test for the current draw. It is just done by placing the meter in series between the battery positive and the control of the transistor?
For now, I'm very happy to be able to continue with this work.
I also hope that anyone else that has had this heat problem, will take note.

Current measuring often causes problems and errors. The thing is, once you strike up an exciter, you'll have HV pulses travelling along DC wiring.
Powering from a wall adapter, you can use an AV plug and LED and see the LED light right up to the wall plug. So, the multimeter is going to see that HV as well.
Putting the meter in series with the Positive supply will give you a reading, but is it correct, if we consider the way that a meter can run all over the place inside an excited field ?
Another way, is to put a 1ohm resistor in the same place. Measure the voltage across that resistor and it will show the amperage (Ohms Law E/R = I), easiest with 1ohm. 50mV will be 50mA, but is subject to the tolerance of the resistor...5% will carry a possibility of a 5% error.
More info here: measuring current using 1ohm resistor. How? - diyAudio

Has anyone here tested that configuration?

I tried first the forum search -function, but it is somewhat frustrating, as it gives all the threads, that contain word 'conical'. Meaning, that you have to go through every thread, page by page, to see the results.

I have done some primitive tests on the 'slayer circuit'(at least, one of them), using cylindrical coil, and managed to light cfl's wirelessly.

Also the plasma stream appears at 5 volts(200-300mA), using a 'horseshoe coil' as an L2.

Transistor in the circuit is C2655, scavenged from now deceased device.

That's my basic setup.

I've managed to wind a conical coil to test it with that very same setup.

As always, picture(s) could tell more, than thousand words.

I'll see, if(when) I find a way to post some pics.

I don't know of anyone trying a conical coil, other that the ferrite cores from the back of tv or monitor tubes. Those have been tried, but I don't know to what degree of success.

I've just maid a new Exciter coil, wound on a 1 1/2 inch wide pvc tube, by about 9 inches long. Great results, even though I still need to add more wire to finish the last inch or so of the coil. The wireless field is about 2 feet, and the circuit will work even with a 1 volt battery, and still light up several CFLs, a 15 watt round florescent bulb, and neon bulb. All the bulbs that I have to put on it will light, but not full on, yet.
Today I'll finish winding the last part of the coil, and do some more test on it later tonight. I can even see plasma coming from the output of the coil, and the RF burn is quite intense. I'm very excited!!!

Glad to hear about the positive results, NickZ!!.

What comes to that conical coil, it is indeed harder to tune, when compared to a cylindrical coil, where you can make L2 also cylindrical, and slide it along with L1.

After all, this exciter -thing just amazes me. Just today, when testing that conical coil, which gives only a faint plasma, I lighted a small candle, just to see, how the 'pig tail' -end of the L1 reacts with fire.

Well, enough thrust to almost kill the fire of that candle.

How the heck can an open end of 0.2mm copper wire do that?

All that stuff goes way beyond my understanding. Nevertheless, I really enjoy to find things, that I've never known to exist.

This is my version of the Solar Exciter Lamp. It uses the Slayer circuit, on a pnp 3906 transistor, 1 meg resistor, and 1n4148 diode. The tower is wound on a 1.5 inch pvc pipe that is about 9 inches long. It's running on a 9 volt battery in the video, but will be connected to my 12v battery, and small solar panel. It will also run off of my homemade carbon/aluminum cells.
I also made a very short video, as my camera battery is bad and 30 seconds video is all I could get from it. Sorry it's so dark.
Video:
Joule Lamp- Wireless Exciter Circuit - YouTube

Attached Images

P1010237 (Medium).JPG (76.6 KB, 16 views)

Here is the coil (in fact, the only decent coil, that I've made so far), that is in test at the moment:



That coil wire(~0.25mm) is wound around conical pendant cap(cup?). Not sure what it is called in english language. Anyways, the cap, that hides the pendant's electrical connections on the upper side.

Approximate coil dimensions:


Lighting the cfl:



The basic circuit, with an additional transistor:




I have no particular reason to use that additional transistor, just a thought, that it might halve the strain, per transistor. Just as using two power resistors in parallel.

That configuration seems to increase the output of the circuit or coil.
Resulting bright cfl, and also a plasma stream, simultaneously, that wasn't the case with one transistor.

At the expense of the transformer(Canon bubblejet 5V/200mA), that gets pretty warm, when testing that t2-schema.

After all, I really like to run this circuit on 5 volts, and will look, if I can purchase some overkill power transistors.

I already have an ancient PC psu, that can deliver 15A/5V.

One might wonder, what is it, that I'm after with all this?

It's simply that plasma thing, very new thing to me, and I'm looking the way to get the most out of it. Possibly use it in productive, and creative manner.

Sorveltaja:
Thank you for sharing your circuit. Looks nice, and interesting. Also appears to light the florescent tube very bright. Brighter than my circuit is able to do on 4 to 5 volts. There is a good video on YouTube about such a coil, actually it is two of the monitor tube ferrite coils that are wound, with one coil fitting inside of the other. They slide in and out for additional tuning. Your picture reminded me of that video, if I can find it again, I'll upload it.
Thanks for keeping this thread going, it's a shame that more people aren't interested.
NickZ

I agree about lack of interest, can't understand why, except it was all very popular for quite a long time. Perhaps people just moved on to other types of experiment.

That conical coil sorveltaja is very cool. Big thumbs up from me, because I know how hard it can be to wind a conical tower !
Best method i've found, is to poke two small holes near the top of the coil form, through which the start of the winding goes. Then, run down and around and every now and again put a couple of drops of white glue on the windings to make sure they don't move. Would be good to know how you did yours

The 2SC2655 is quite good on the amperage handling I see, 2A, with 0.5A to the Base. Your pair may perhaps be further enhanced with 2 diodes to the Base.
I've got a 5V circuit here, that was showing signs of heating the transistor (note for Nick too maybe) - 2x N45HER203 (medium sized black) diodes forward biased toward the Base, both increased power output several fold and allowed the transistor to be just hand warm after an hour of running. 1 diode helped, but not much, adding another made the world of difference. 3 and the drop was too much, the transistor stopped !
Transistor in this case is a D2641, Slayer circuit without a resistor...I start it by using a piezo lighter at the side of the tower.

Slider and All:
Thanks for the info on the diodes to the base, I'll give it a try, as I still can't get my Exciter to run without heating on 12v. I've been running a single 1n4148 on the base, so I'll try two of them and see what happens.
It will do ok on 4 to 6v, but it's not the voltage that's the problem, its the amps. Is there a way to filter only the amps without dropping the voltage? Actually the voltage does not really matter much on these Exciters, as mine will run even on 1/2 volt.

You almost caught up with me on the number of posts, but I'll never catch up on your number of videos... At least for now I have another camera to use for videos. It works well but has very low volume level. I'll replace the dead battery in my other camera and it will be ok again.
I do hope that more of us will go back to the Exciters, as there is more than just a little more to learn about them. I love it when all of a sudden the leds, or Cfls get very bright, almost bursting. But, heat has been the issue that had kept me from developing that degree of brightness.

It's definitely worth trying 2 diodes. Dr. Stiffler's circuits feature them, 3 in fact if you include the tuning LED and his circuit was intended for 12V

Current is I=V/R
So, a pull-up resistor ought to sort you out. 10K is a common value and would probably be a 1/2Watt type for your circuit. Lots of info in something like this: http://www.physics.unlv.edu/~bill/PH...urrent_lim.pdf
I generally throw one on the Positive input, as described some posts back, but there are proper ways of doing it !

Ah yes the posts, but my videos have slowed up recently...so go for it lol. In fact though, your bad battery problem has still allowed some interesting short videos. The low volume one is a strange problem. I'd have to think it's the mic preamp section and you might look for a blown (SMD) transistor right next to the mic. Alternatively, another microphone might fix it...maybe you can desolder the mic wires and run the wires out to an audio jack. Then, a computer mic could be tried and the volume may increase. Not much to lose if you won't be using it anyway.

Thanks for the advice. I did try two diodes last night, and even three. Three was too much, but two works ok, although it does drop the output some, when using only 3.6 volts. I'll keep looking into the 12 volt level though.
Like woopy said it may be possible to make this all work on very low volts.
As there is more than meets the eye, going on.
I'm now using 4 garden light solar cells to charge a wireless phone battery that is used to run my Exciter. As it seams to like the 3.6 volts that the phone battery gives, without much heat involved. But, on 12 volts every once in a while there is a great flux of current coming from the Exciter. Any lights attached get very bright. It's been hard to put my finger on just what is going on when it slams my anolog meter's needle, but it gives me hope that I'll soon figure it out, and will have lots of power coming out, to work with. It's all very intriguing, to no end. Keeps me up to all hours at night, and from sleeping once I do get into bed. All good fun though...

Did some testings with that conical coil, and found out so far, that it works
better with only one round L2(0,7 - 1,5mm).

Adding L2 rounds, be it in flat spiral, or cylindrical form, seem to only decrease the output(barely lit the cfl, and/or the tuning led).

To me, using only one round, as a coil, feels a bit strange, as it has so low resistance. My multimeter doesn't even notice it.

Well, if the circuit likes it, I like it too.

Current schematic:

That additional coil L3, I'm not sure how it affects the circuit. I remember reading, or watching Utube videos, where L3 was used with exciter.
Couldn't figure out, how it should have been connected to circuit, so it somehow ended in parallel with L2.

So far, I still get the best results using one round L2, especially with that coil:

One round L2, as ordered. Above picture shows it in the position, that is as close to sweet spot, as I've managed to tune it so far.

At first I taped it to lower end of the cone, but by looking at the tuning led, it lit only dimly.

@Slider: Winding the conical coil can actually be as easy as cylindrical one.
Not sure if it's doable by hand, but if you have even the modest winding setup, that consist of a slow-speed motor and an axle, that holds the spring-loaded wire reel, then you're ready to go.

To make the starting a whole lot easier, smaller- or top end of the cone need to have some kind of a 'back stop' glued in place.
I used a cd-disk, which had its metal layer removed, then the center hole enlarged to fit neatly to the top of the cone.

It doesn't have to be a disk, but any object, that can form a 'shoulder', such as a suitable sized plastic ring.

To start winding, I wrapped couple rounds by hand, then secured them with few drops of super glue.

When the actual winding starts, it's important to find most suitable angle, which the coil is fed. That way the wire somewhat auto-aligns itself with already wound wire, resulting tight coil.

sorveltaja:
There are many different ways to go when connecting the three different coils to the transistor circuit. It all depends on your particular set up. I try to connect them with an alligator clip to test the different connection points at first, like on the base, or on the control of the transistor to see which one works the best and where. Then I solder them on. Normally the L3 coil is the biggest final output coil, and the L1 goes to the control of the transistor, and the L2 goes on the base. The L3 also can be connected to the base, or to the control, or where you find that it works best. I like I said, it may depend on your set up.

Nick: Thanks for an explanation. Reason for me to use L3 in this circuit, parallel with L2, as that very same L2 have so small resistance on its own(~0 ohms).

Just to provide bit more resistance for the poor transistor(s) to grab on(just my wild guess).
-------------------------------------
But, in the meantime, I've done some testings, not with conical coil, but with cylindrical one, wound around a spray paint can's cap, using that 'crown coil':


Cfl is bright, plasma stream is there also(sorry about crappy photo).

Yeah, all the standard stuff, but in addition, transistors, that I use (2 x C2655) on my circuit (mentioned earlier), don't get hot anymore, only warm.

Can't explain it better.

Hmm, 5V again ?
Excellent to get the plasma with that small tower and small voltage

Ah, here is where I noticed something: "spring-loaded wire reel" - I generally salvage from whatever and hence don't use store bought wire very often. All is manual for winding. Thanks for the tips, definitely things to remember and try out.
I like that crown coil....good name too.