@Slayer
I spent the last two days working with that new circuit that you showed. Thanks for posting it. It is very interesting. I'm sure that you have done what I have done and played around with different versions of it. I ran an altered circuit today in the "Exciter" mode on a rather small homemade Mg/Cu crystal cell. One volt and 2 mA.
We have done so many of these circuits by now I am starting to lose track of them. We may have done this before but I don't think so. It really isn't a Joule Thief (blocking oscillator) in this configuration. It is something different. I tried the circuit with an air core bifilar and it didn't work. The small Elelctronic goldmine ferrite toroid worked fine. I used about 20 turns each of 24ga wire on the toroid.

Lidmotor

@Lidmotor
WOAH! syncronicity LOL
I'm posting this vid, because it shows just about the simplest version of these type of circuits we've all been making on toroids. It's a bear to wind, 1500 turns of 30 gauge as the secondary, but, it's HV enabled from........one volt and 2mA
The toroid is a completely common 1" yellow, with white on one end, as found in old ATX computer power supplies.

Of interest perhaps to the salts and related cells, I show an idea of charging a small Alum/rainwater/copper/galv steel cell with an R/C batteries wall charger. It's that cell that is shown running the circuit.

1V 2mA HV circuit + Alum cell charge idea - YouTube


Shown here, with the unmodified LED nightlight after several hours.

Hi folks, Hi slider, watched your video, thanks for sharing.
Since i could not get slayers latest circuit going, i'm winding a ferrite toroid similar size to yours with 30 gauge, have 200 turns so far, a ways to go yet, hehe, we'll see what i can power with it.
I'm also winding a sergdo toroid in between winding this one, me fingers are tired, hehe.
peace love light
tyson

How do you wind yours ?
I've found one way which is quite easy and just brings in the time consuming more than anything.
Take a piece of drinking straw approx 4" long for a 1" toroid
Put tape/hot glue/something to cap the ends.
Wind a rough approximation of turns on the straw, that take the sizing difference into consideration.
Now you can wind, over and over and know that your turns are at least approximate if you lose count.
The capped ends stop the windings of the straw coming off from one end.

Alternatively, a screw or similar with a flat end, will work to limit any wire wanting to unravel off the straw.
Any shorter a piece and the wire filled straw may not go through the hole of the toroid, once some windings are in place.

Hi folks, Hi slider, thanks for tips, I'm using a barbecue bamboo skewer 9" long.
I'm at 400 turns and counting.
peace love light
tyson

That's another good one

With the time these things take to wind, we may see the following:
"Ok guys, finally wound the 1500 turns. Wife was fine about it, though she says I could have made our daughters wedding instead of sitting at home winding. Didn't know we had a daughter, we didn't when I started this"

I think what also could be useful is a step down transformer, if you're going to wind the sergdo coil using a high gauge wire you shouldn't expect too much current. And since I doubt someone is going to wind a low gauge coil any time soon then a secondary "conventional" transformer can be used to get the voltage down and amps up. I have ordered a few 100mm OD ferrite ring cores so I can see what this thing can do too.

@Lidmotor
Thanks for trying this setup.

@Slider
Slider that looks like amazing results.

@All
In this video I replaced the toroid with two 10uH chokes.
The chokes don't have to be next to each other but I did have to add a 400pf cap from the collector to where the diode and the choke come togeather.
I also removed the 1M resistor.

JT Exciter 3 - YouTube

@slider. Can you get that thing to illuminate two rooms? Your using 2 milliwatts there... am I asking too much, I don't think so. Planet's burning up ya know.

LOL j/k
excellent work!

@Slayer
Nice little circuit and very interesting to see that the other stalwart around here of the MPSA06 didn't produce results like the venerable 2N2222A.
I built up something similar this afternoon and used a S9014. But, no joy yet. It intrigues me when something works or doesn't....hats off for finding a transistor that did !

@kcarring
milliwatts...million watts ! 1 million watts per room ! I sure hope to illuminate with all that energy lol

But really, much can be done when you start with HV, where an LED shouldn't even light up
A grey toroid of 1 1/4" and connected differently, lights a neon fine and i'm exploring that for running an exciter etc too. It has less winds, 1000 secondary of 30 gauge, 36 turn primary of 30 gauge. It again had to be tuned up by increasing/decreasing Primary winds, to run from 1.86mA and 1.3V from a solar panel under the CFL lamp.
Will post the circuit of that ASAP, the Positive connects to 1 wire, not the Primary/Secondary pair.

Here we go, circuit diagram as mentioned above.

The Positive connection is made to the end of the 36 turn Primary. This means, that if your circuit doesn't fire up, then you can add or drop turns readily, until it does.
This toroid is a grey coloured 1 1/4", a kind gift from Mr. kcarring
Transistor is a 2N6517. I ordered a surprise type box from Electronic Goldmine, one of those lucky dip type of things and several were in there.

The pic below was taken just now, at 6.20pm. It's when the sun is low enough to come directly through the utility room window.
Solar panel is from a regular cheapo solar garden light.
The 20K variable pot, enables lighting from 1.86mA down to 450uA.
The brightness of the neon here, represents around that low an amperage, due to the time of day and being behind a window.



Just went back to measure the actual volts and amps and to check the circuit was still running.
Voltage 1.097V
Amperage 455uA

I've got this circuit running on 0.4 volts, and 1.4 mAs, tonight.
It's really is a lot brighter than it looks in the pic, but the flash takes most of the brightness out. The circuit is a Joule Thief, kn2222A, no resistor, led between the C and B, instead of C and E. It's running off of a couple of little pieces of activated carbon and a small piece of aluminum, and some wet table salt. Just for fun... Total output from each little cell is about one volt, and 10 mAs, without a load.

oops, missed post above

Very nice Nick
Always a fan of the KN version here, particularly after finding about a dozen of them one time on some old amp circuit lol. Found a bunch of C1815's today and desoldered them. They're destined for the Turbo JT, or whatever we call the 1000+ turn versions.

Speaking of which...just took a pic at about 6.45pm of the grey toroid, as pictured above. With judicious use of the variable pot, the LED mains rated nightlight will come on



The idea now, is to synergize (word ? lol) the whole thing and link the HV output to HV wireless energy. Output coils are now a focus....we should be able to see gains of output, when fed wirelessly rather than directly.

Slider and All:
Here is another pic of the low draw oscillator running on just ONE carbon/Al cell. It shows the led light brightness a bit better since it is running on 0.45v, and 13mA, this time. Not bad for three little pieces of activated carbon, on a piece of aluminum, and table salt electrolyte. Again, no costs involved.
The ferrite bead has only about 20 winds or so, and that oscillator can light the 6 led bulb that is sitting next to it, to about 1/3 brightness, on just a single cell.

Slider: Good luck with your HV project. I also have a bunch of those one inch iron powder toroids. But, I'd rather use the one inch long ferrite beads or toroids cores that I salvaged from old crt monitors. So, I won't have to miss my daughters wedding, winding them.

@totoalas Cool video. I have been looking at those lamps for a while. Did you know that they make those, also, in a donut bulb that is half red spectrum, and the other half blue, for greenhousing? I thought that was neat.

Hi Kyle
Im thinking of your alum wire in a magnet core think will explore the Slayer ckt to try this have lots of microwave ring magnets 2000 pcs in my collection the new T5 fluoro will surely fit
Induction Light - YouTube
totoalas

The bulbs contain mercury pellets. Not something we need to be adding to the environment but I would like to play with the ballast and the inductor.

Hi zardox
I think I will stick it out with the old fluoro lamps where we had lit them wirelessly from the previous post s

the magnet wire configuration with aluminum coil maybe will need some tweaking T5 fl lamps with 100 mm dia can be a good test lamp


totoalas

@xee2

I have been messing around with the Royer lately to some degree of success. Looking at your diagram you denote 100 uF in the main AC cap. Can you explain the relevance of the sizing of this component in the circuit, I don't really understand what implications it has, i.e. frequency, output power etc.

Thanks

I think value is not critical. Just needs to be large enough to hold enough charge to turn on/off the other mosfet. I believe the charge in the capacitor does the switching. But I have not done any testing on this circuit. I think the zeners are not needed if the voltage is 12 volts or less. Doom2pro webpage has details of operation.

Interesting idea. I am still at the stage of trying to replicate "as good as" results as seen by Gbluer and Jiffycoil, which has leaned me towards trying to get things as close to identical to their setups; as opposed to a new tangent.. at this time. Recently I have been able to get things operating at the 1.0V level, which is some progress. So, all in good time I guess.

I find it rather interesting how in most circuits, interesting results are usually found in very low voltages. (for input). Anyone can speculate whether or not there is free energy in it; personally I do not think there is, but there does seem to be usefulness. For example, the free energy devices we do know, that work, FOR SURE: i.e. solar cells and thermocouples.. they all come in the flavor of low voltage high current output. And that is a natural marriage to what is seemingly useful for these circuits. Take a look at one 6" cell:

Specs

* Monocrystalline solar cells
* 156mm x 156mm * thickness 190 +/-20 um
* Cell efficiency 18.2%
* Pmpp(W): 4.33
* Umpp(V): 0.523
* Impp(A): 8.243
* Voc(V) : 0.632
* Isc(A) : 8.803

You get one half volt and 8A.
3 or 4 in series would then provide open circuit 1.8 - 2.4V, and enough to charge a NiFe (i.e. IGNI 240).

Now obviously, if want to invert power for use in other applications, this is not practicle... I am talking about a stand alone separate system: 1 panel, 1 battery, 1 light.

The average solar panel frame can accomodate either 36 or 72 cells. In a configuration where 4 cells were used in series for 2.4V open circuit, in a 36 cell panel, that will provide in full sunlight a theoretical 72 amp output to the battery; one owuldn't be enough, several would be needed in parallel.

In fact, just four cells outputing a theroretical 8A should provide a pretty decent charge.

Naturally the system needs to all in one area, the battery right behind the panel. Or voltage losses will occur. And, it may require 5 cells in series. I'm not sure.

You would then run several circuits to provide the light you are after.

Basically it is the complete opposite of what is done in solar power. LOL
But somehow, it seems to make sense to me.

i tried about 12 times to correct some typos in that last post using the edit function but it failed to work everytime:

I meant to say, that if 36 cells were used your amperage would be so high that one Edison cell would not be enough, several would be needed in parallel to accomodate the 72 amp output. So, more realistically, perhaps 4 or 5 cells in series, outputting a theoretical 8A (and more likely a 5-6A charge on an average day) would be suffice to charge on Edison style cell, and then several low voltage light circuits would feed off that.

An alternative might be a custom panel made to charge paralleled nominal 3.6V 18650's in a a bank, and thus you'd want somewhere in the department of 5V real output, at high amps.

In the above I should add the ultimate durability and "abusability" of the NiFE is unparamounted. The charge voltage can vary from 1.46 to 1.55 volts per cell. Unlike other battery designs, the exact charge voltage is unimportant. A higher voltage will result in quicker charges but more water loss that will necessitate more frequent topping up with distilled water. So in theory, anyways 4 cells in series should work quite nicely.

I suspect this setup would provide free light for 40-50 years without part replacement.

@slider

Remember the Canadian 99.9% nickels I sent you? Please experiment using those nickels and compressed "patties" of steel wool, using pure Lye as your electrolyte. They may be weak, and require a couple or three to get your voltage.

If you have only about .1-.5V input, I have found this circuit works too. Once I have settled on some component values I'll put up my results. The JFET I used was a J110 and is depletion mode, the RC feedback is high value resistor / low value cap.

It is a patented circuit. Not sure where it came from originally.

@ kcarring

I looked at that circuit some more and I think that the value of the capacitor does effect frequency. The larger the capacitance the lower the frequency. I think. When circuit switches the capacitor must recharge to turn on voltage and the bigger it is the longer that should take. But I can not be really sure until I build it.

@Xee2

I decided I needed another Xee2 JT to run a light out at the boat launch at the cabin, so I took a 120VAC-10VAC transformer I found at the dump and rewired the primary to have a CT, fired it up on a 3.7V tonight, it runs good, lots of light I scoped it for fun, strange wave. It runs at anywhere from 35mA right up to .5A. Seems to give out good efficiency when compared to the 2 watts the bulb normally uses, at least 75% - 80%, that's for sure. I like it. A bit noisy though, my other one ran quiet, maybe the bigger transformer... that doesn't matter though because it will be outside and the inverter will be way up a tree where there is good solar. Going to try an infrared switch / sony remote / on this one

Hahahahaha must check the spare bedrooms. Maybe they're not spare anymore!

Hi guys - I found this both mystifying and exciting, but perhaps there is a simple explanation.

Im using a 30W input on the Slayer exciter (32V at just under an amp - old printer power supply, MJE 13007 - the toughest transistor in my opinion) and the receiving tower SEEMS to increase in output when I add more and more load...a trick of the mind, or something more interesting? You decide!

Add more load and output increases - YouTube

I'll be adding a lot more in the next few days....as many CFLs as I can lay my hands on.