ok, got it to work ( i think )...by flipping the L1... the neon lights..but has to be almost touching the coil..will only light on the top 1/3rd of the coil..go below this and it will not light.

AV plug lights too, again has to be VERY close to L1

played around with pot values...using around 47K set at max seems to produce the best results and also.the lowest amp draw.

rigged up the water container, L1 to foil etc.... the foil is live checking with neon & AV plug.and so is the water..both neon & AV plug light up when their terminals are placed in the water

consuming around 30mA at the moment.... no bubbles as far as i can see though...but i am using quite a large container... perhaps 35mmm diameter.,..so the diode inside is quite aways from the foil.

@ johnny / anyone...

how do i modify the circuit johnny is using that has the L2 on a toroid...to instead have the L2 wrapped around the base of the L1?

@rave154.Hi David.To replace the torroid.Wrap a coil onto your L1 maybe about 10 turns of 18swg and that will give allow you to remove a few later for tuning. Connect one end of your large L1 coil to the base of transistor.

Connect one end of your L2 to battery + and the other end to the collector.If it dosen't work,reverse these two connections.
Try it with the 16k resistor from battery + to base and you may be able to remove this once its running but i leave mine connected.Jonny

@Rave154

Try it with a smaller container something small like a test tube.
I tried it with a small jar but could only get a few small bubbles off the diode.
But with something small like a test tube it works very well.

thanks for the info guys, i think i can see where i was going wrong...

its interesting that so far at least.....it would appear to be that the closer the foil is to the leg of the diode....the better the effect.

This would seem to imply that this is, in a way, electrolysis via voltage only?

How about a new container for the water...something with an inside diameter that is only perhaps 2mm larger than leg of the diode itself, thus enabling a very close "coupling" between the foil and the leg of the diode.

hmm....interesting stuff

ok, i just quickly but fairly neatly wound 11 turns of 20SWG ( closest i had on hand ) around the bottom of L1..and connected as you instructed Johnny........BINGO !!!!!

i still have the pot in place as opposed to the single resistor to allow me a bit of "tuning" so to speak.

much more action now...neon lights from quite a way from the L1...and also lights up along the whole length of L1 and not just the top 1/3rd of it.



p.s i wound the 11 turns in the opposite direction to that of L1

hi jonny,
ive tested L3 on an incandescent bulb in place of test tube
set up
tap water plus 5 pinch of lye (or baking soda)on the bulb
connected both ends of L3 to filament
connected 4148 to L1 and immersed in the bulb
result with one 8w load on L1
when diode near filament strong electrolysis occurs
100 ma current draw
better solution
more contact surface more bubbles less spacing between metals more reaction
ps check hho@5 volts with S cell 20 amp current draw from pc power supply

another use of L3 connect one end to another L1 size 3 inches by 12 inches and will light 4 8w lamps

L3 ends connected to 2 microwave radiator and L1 output connected to third microwave raditor...... these radiators act as L1 with 8 w lamp each current draw 170 ma L1 has one 8 w load as well

ps how to attached smaller pix since im using image shack and distorts THE THREAD size TY
cheers

hmmm...... still not geting any electrolysis...


used a smaller tube , probably even smaller diameter than johnnys.....still no luck..maybe the odd small bubble but nothing like what johnny was getting

It´s all about the tuning of the coils. I also only get bubbles.
Jonny just had a good hand and choice of wire length/turns while winding his coil. Either try a different coil or maybe a tuning cap.

Rave, why not try a pancake L2 and also 1Mohm resistor

cheers
totoalas

Hi all

i ,made this post some hours ago but it desapears. probably i made a mistake.
Anyway here my result of today with 4 diodes in the test tube.

I made a winding with welding tin (unisolated) and got very good results.

first test with the bottom tin only directly connected to the L1 free wire (70 ma current ) and good electrolisis.
Than i connected the top tin wiring to the house ground, and got much stronger electrolisis with 100 ma .

good night

Laurent

hi,

i just put my scope across my 10 turn coil on the exciter, measured around 2 - 2.1MHz..

a nice sine wave(slightly mis-shapen at the bottom), over 40V peak-peak and around 10V RMS..all from a 12V battery with 20mA !?!

The strength of the radiated energy will certainly come into play. If the water is being induced to ionise it will be absorbing photon energy from the electromagnetic radiation. Hence the energy levels will reduce the farther the EMR has to penetrate into the water.

farrah, if that is true..then that settles it...to increase gas production...

we need to enlarge the cathode surface area, and get it as close as possible to the edge of the glass with a little water inbetween.

Depending on the energy of the EMR, there will be lots of ionisation occurring throughout the water, but unless there are electrodes therein to allow charge exchanging, the H+ and OH- ions will quickly recombine to water.

We need to take advantage of as much of the ionisation occurring throughout the water as possible.

So yes surface area is important, but unlike a brute force current dependent electrolyser, electrode placement and design might be far more important. We have to be very careful that we don't end up actually screening the water from the required EMR with the electrodes. Take a look at my electrolyser concept on my Closed-Loop Electrolyser thread.

Incidentally I would lean toward similar areas of cathode and anode otherwise you might effectively create an unnecessary resistance to current flow.

At least that's how I see it, but there are still many details to work out. One being an optimum frequency for efficient ionisation. We need the frequency that delivers a photon of correct energy.

@rave 154.Hi David.I have an L1 coil which is very close to what you are using but wound with 26swg wire.It is the same former,a cardboard tube from some tinfoil, so i set that up to see how that worked with Dr Stifflers single diode electrlolysis and it made a few bubbles but not a lot but i could get a constant stream out of it when i used the increased gas output mod i posted recently so try that with your setup.I don't think it will work like my pop bottle coil as like xeno says,frequency plays a big part in this but at least you will see somthing. Jonny
@totalas Hi.I would love to see some pics of your setup.You can use a program called irfanview to resize your pics.I usually resize mine to 30% and then on imageshack,press the link for get code for forums and copy/paste it into your post.Jonny.

[IMG][IMG=http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/8023/sec12v260610012a.jpg][/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
Hi Jonny and to all

attached pics for my set up

cheers
totoalas

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[IMG][IMG=http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8936/sec12v300610009c.jpg][/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

Hi to all
thia is my set up of L3/L1 electrolisys

Woopy great connection on L1 outside the tube

Has anyone tried to light a Uv lamp for water disinfection. i cannot light my 1 meter UV lamp ??????
After water electrolysis what happens next to the electrolyte for what purpose
hope to heaR from you guys
Is it for drinking or can function aS safe straW the one membrANE FOR filtering wATER FROM aNY SOURCE Used by the US militaRY IN afghAnistAN

cheers
totoalas

@Jonny, Slayer, and All
I replicated the doide in the water electrolysis experiment using the Slayer Exciter. It is just like what you showed Jonny. It worked really well and I even got it to work off one 9 volt battery. I also ran my dried out Stubblefield coil / motor wirelessly at the same time. Dr. Stiffler has come up with something very very interesting.

Here is the video of it working:

YouTube - Diode electrolysis using the Slayer Exciter.ASF

Cheers,

Lidmotor

@ Lidmotor.. Great video, It looks like your getting good results with your HHO production.

@ All

Here is just a small mod that will help with tunning your exiter.
The led will light when L2 is tuned to the right spot.

There should be two or three good hot spots on your L1 coil.

This idea was taken from Dr Stifflers sec 18 to help with tunning.

The 1m resistor is just an option also it's not needed if using higher voltages.

Attached Images

Slayer LED Mod.jpg (49.5 KB, 96 views)

HI TO ALL
lidmotor great video

Slayer
your led indicator finally sealed a complete circuit
Your circuit of sec 12 v dc 100 ma with 4 8w load has performed well
16 hours daily operation for 1 week now without any change in transistor temperature 29 deg C/ output

Hope you can give a simple photocell or control circuit as an option ........
I will install a calculator solar cell to your JT design again to power up my circuit
with hope of less human intervention

Im now on Peltier ckt and w ill try to operate with your sec

cheerstotoalas

Thank you Totoalas

The diode led combination idea I got from Dr Stiffler he uses it in his sec 18 series.
For tuning and to save the degrading of the transistor hfe over time.


Also if you have another coil connect it to one of the battery post and watch the plasma fly.

@JohnnyDavro, Dr Stiffler, Slayer or Lidmotor.

Firstly....great work on the high voltage stuff guys. I scrolled back however can't seem to find which post is the most recent circuit (@Lidmotor - is it the one you are using for your pulse motor and if so where is that posted?).

Secondly, have any of you experienced what I can only descibe as coil/circuit saturation? (More power in less power out). No components heat ONLY the battery IF you go over a certain input power threshold therefore the feedback is somehow to battery.

Regards

Teslaproject

This video is to show how you can use two diodes and one LED for a indicator light for your exiter.
It helps with tunning and hepls protect the transistor.

Dr Stiffler uses it in his SEC 18 series and it also works very good with this circuit.


In the video the 1M resistor is disconnected.It is no longer needed if using over 1v.
And I also have one coil connected to the negative battery post.

Here is the video.

YouTube - Exiter with indicator light

hI TO ALL,



Ive just replicated the Slayer latest video but with additional L3 on both coils 1 1/2 dia 12 and 18 inches tall......

Positive or Negative terminal will provide strong plasma and strong led indication

attached are pix of my set up

cheers totoalas


[IMG=http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5219/sec12v040710008a.jpg][/IMG]

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[IMG=http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/2825/sec12v040710011a.jpg][/IMG]

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Additional Electrolysis Info:

Imageshack - avplug1.jpg - Uploaded by FarrahDay

I did the tests posted in the link above with Slayer's basic exciter cct, without the LED indicator set up, L3 or the 1 Mohm resistor.

I used a tower coil I had at hand, 170mm high on a 40mm diameter former, which read as 1.2 ohms dc resistance and 360uH. A small pancake coil placed near the bottom consisting of 7 turns of multistrand telephone wire which read 0.1 ohm dc resistance and just 1uH.

The set up worked, but the transistor didn't half get hot. I tried various transistors, BC184, 2N2222A, 2N3053 and various others (unmarked) that I had knocking about. Most worked, but obviously my set up is drawing too much current through the transistors.

Thank you Doc, oh I mean Farrah Day for answering my earlier question. As I am slow in finally getting The circuit done and working, (had the Bloody 4KV trigger transformer backwards), uploaded video U-Tube, hope the wife doesn't find it...she will see I brought the work home...and to HER kitchen oops!
How much gas for what qty of ma / volts. One question that has popped up...are their any health hazards for this "field" that anyone has come up with? Then the next test that I will have done is to build a cell with the flow through and build the "ionizing plates into the top and bottom of our cell, then pulse a high voltage through the SS plates to see what effect we have. Our material that we make the cell with has CU powder impregnated into it for heat distribution / elimination. This also allows for a "field" to be generated around it. I will keep you posted...

Sorry for the earlier questions...the rest of your post didn't show up until after...Thanks.

What questions Bob??

To-date I've been playing with what I have at hand. I've been somewhat haphazard and not recording any specifics as I've just been trying to get a feel for what is happening.

But I want to start documenting things properly whilst being more versatile in my experimentation, so I intend to put together a test jig to make life easier for taking measurements.

I'm just waiting on some new circuit breadboard and enamelled wire at the moment.