Hi Guys,

Just saw the latest EFTV DVD and would and would like to construct a Kromery Converter. Has anyone here done this already or knows more of the details. The DVD was very informative, however it left out a few things. For example, what is the black thing on the top of the converter? (looks like a dc motor to me), are the coils wound for a certain polarity? etc.

It all looks reasonably simple, however looks can be decieving.

Cheers everyone.

Steve.

Steve,

Everything is based on Raymond Kromrey's US Patent #3,374,376. Start there. The "black thing" on the top was the DC drive motor.

Peter

Thanks Peter,

I figured it was the drive motor but wasn't sure. Based on what John says in the dvd it seems like a pretty intersting device.

Cheers,

Steve

Ive had a little read of the patent. Its an interesting read. I dont like the idea of rotating the coils, but it appears that it can be configured with them on the stator. Will be looking more into this, have ordered EFTV10 for my viewing pleasure.

Another question is where are those at MIT now...hmm

The way JB has them setup in the vid is a lot better than the patent. Very simple.

My only question is, do the coils have to be wound in a certain direction for each polarity? I guess I'll have my answer when I go to turn it on. Knowing my luck they will all be backwards or something.

MIT probably did develop them and then sold them off. Who knows, they probably run the place with them.

Cheers,

Steve

direction of coil wind makes no difference if you are doing a single strand on a single coil. but it does matter if you are going multi stand and multi coil you have to make sure that you have the right ends tied together just like any other generator. If you have just the two coil model that is spinning the magnets instead of spinning the coils you can use two double pole double throw switches to switch from voltage and amperage and ac and dc output.

Im hoping to build a smaller one myself that will fit inside one of those cd holders. i have the motor for it already. just have to get the generator part made. mounting to the stainless shaft is the hardest part that I have run into so far.

Hi Red,

Thanks for the info about the coils, I didn't even know there was a two coil version. I am building one very similar to the machine shown on the DVD with the four coils in series. I'm still deciding if I should make them with the three paralelled windings or just keep it simple and only have the one winding.

As far as the shaft goes, I have managed to get one made out of a rigid plastic. I can't recall the type but it should be a good "axle" as this isn't a torque motor. Also, being made from plastic makes it easy to drill holes into for attaching the coils etc.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi All,

Just though I would post a pic of my replication of the converter. It is 90% complete. All I need to add are the coils and a bridge rectifier for the output. I have copied the device Bedini shows on the DVD only I have used three magnet pairs instead of two. I have a feeling I will need a bigger drive motor. It looks tiny

Cheers,

Steve

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Looking good Steve


-Gary

Whooly crap Steve
(scientific term)

Thanks guys. I just hope it works wont know until I get the coils installed.

Does anyone have a link to the patent pages or a .pdf of a document describing this device?

When I search for this patent it comes up with no results....

Is free energy green?

Tj

Looks really good Steve!

What kind of sliprings do you use and where can I buy them?

Try PAT2PDF - Free PDF copies of patents: Download and print!

Is free energy green? I do not know of a FE project that is
not pretty much entirely CO2 free, but there may be an exception.
Paul-R

Hi Paul,

The sliprings are brass and are custom made. I couldn't find anyone in my area that sold them. I am lucky to have found a good machinist who doesn't charge too much as almost everything except the magnets is custom.

Cheers,

Steve

Thank you Steve, same problem here in the Netherlands, no slip rings, no usable electric motor, no aluminum rods, no copper wire, no… today it seems you have to buy a full equipped car engine, because most of all those salesclerks don't know the separate parts by name anymore. But alright, I have to make these slip rings myself.

I have the Energy From The Vacuum part 10 DVD, but I still have some questions. Maybe there will be more specific info (from John Bedini himself on his website?) about the exact dimensions of the vital parts. Do you know the diameter of the coils core? I guess the core will be a massif steel bar? Fixed onto the nonmagnetic axle.

Hi Paul,

For my coil cores I just randomly chose a 12mm diameter. The way I have designed it is to use 4 separate cores, each with a 1/4" threaded hole that is 10mm deep. The cores are then connected to each other through the shaft using 1/4" threaded rod. Both the cores and the rod are made from mild steel. The pic should make it clearer.

Cheers,

Steve.

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Thanks again Steve, seems the right way, I suppose you are drilling a hole in the threaded rod to slide it in, and connect it to the axle? Do you use ball bearings on your axle? (Apologize for all my questions)

Friday evening I did find the correct motor, see picture. It is made in Germany and the specifications are:

VDO (brand name)
Antriebstechnik (drive technique)
Type: M48x50/T
Spannung: 12 V -
Drehzahl: 3050 1/min bei 10 Ncm (rpm)
Best. Nr.: 211310 (order nr.)

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ElektromotorAlex.jpg (177.0 KB, 110 views)

Hi Paul,

I am using a 12mm diameter main shaft and have drilled holes through this. This way, as I screw the coil cores together they tighten and grip the shaft.

I think by doing it this way I can keep the centre of the core solid and not have it interupted by drilling a hole though it. Not sure if it makes a difference as far as the magnetic flux goes but you never know.

Cheers,

Steve.

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Hi All,

Just thought I would post a pic of what happens when you forget to reinforce the coils for high speed rotation.

Costly mistake. I now only have one good coil left and need to get the other three rewound.

Cheers,

Steve

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Good job dambit!

You demonstrate excellent machining skills in your project! With such a jeal, abilities and the replication of a real OU device i think you have great chances in achieving The final goal. Well done.

By the way, can you provide the coils specs?

regards,

Baroutologos

ps: seems to me 24 awg at 50 ohm more or less :P

Thanks for the kind words.

I must confess I didn't do the machining personaly. I pay others to do that. I just stick to doing the designs and drawings.

The coils are trifilar wound and are made of 0.28mm wire with just over 800 turns. Each strand measures between 13 and 14ohms.

I was planing to post a vid of it lighting some bulbs, but seeing as I now have to get the coils rewound, I am hoping to do that tomorrow. If it works that is.

Cheers,

Steve

dang, Been there Dambit. Force a laugh and move on buddy What else can you do.

Made a good mess of it. At least you see the humor somewhat by posting a pic of the destruction.

Look forward to seeing it in action.

Damit, that sucks! Hey do you want me to untangle that for ya

Good luck,

Mark

Doh! time and copper are expensive!
I hope You are up and running again soon!

Hey Steve,

Been there and done that--I feel your pain, man. I think that from the pictures of the G-field that Ron Cole made that he figured that it didn't matter if you rotated the coils or rotated the magnets. I think if I build one, I'm going to go for moving magnets since then you don't need slip rings and other attendant problems such as coils flying into magnets at high speed.

Good luck with your replication! I'm looking forward to the videos when you're finished!

Hi Shamus,

It would be easier to rotate the magnets but they do weigh a fair bit so a larger drive motor may be needed. Mind you this would mean that the magnets themselves would act as a flywheel and automatically do away with the cogging that Bedini talks about. I think I'll try it that way if I build another one.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi All,

Ok... First things first. The converter works.

The reason you are reading this and not seeing a video is because after 2 min of running the machine, another coil unspooled itself.

This is the only remaining design problem I am having, so I will bite the bullet and redesign the coil spools so that they can have an aluminium cover slide over the outside of them. This way I figure they will hold up and look a bit better too. For the short term I will simply cover the coils in heat shrink.

Before the coil shat itself, I did manage to get a couple of readings. Just by spinning the shaft with my fingers I can get upto 5V on the output. While the drive motor was running the meter registered 25V on the output. I had just hooked up a battery to charge and saw that it was indeed charging when the coil went.

Cheers,

Steve

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Hi Dambit,

I'm not sure how big your coil are but maybe you could put them inside a plastic pipe or even cover them with fiber glass resin.