thanks guys for the quick response, so no 555 is needed in this setup either?
the local surplus store here has a half dozen or so big caps like the ones in aaron's video, think i might have to go shopping today

I tried the neon bulb triggering once. It went well, but after a while the neon bulb became dimmer, I could see that the inner surface of the bulb became dark as if the bulb has blacken with somke from the inside. Then I stopped this test.

Hi all,

You can certainly use higher voltage discharges if you want.

I've done up to 90v from caps triggered by neon bulb triggering a scr.
If voltage is too high with not enough current..example...I was using a
600v cap .1 or .01 uf...so it fills up fast...at high frequency discharge of
voltage like that...it will make the batts rise in voltage, but won't power
much...it is electrostatic voltage charge.

You need at least the bare minimum amount of current to get the lead
ions moving in charging mode to my understanding.

Those caps in the vid are 30,000 60volts...made by Aerovox or something.
Anyway, I got those from ebay about 6 years ago or so for about $5 each.

A neon/scr circuit can replace an entire 555 circuit but again, if the trigger
voltage is high and not enough capacitance to give a good burst, it will be
a very fluffy charge.

If capacitance is too high to get the voltage rise in the caps that you want, then the discharge frequency might be too slow and again, this won't charge a battery very well. I used a bike wheel motor with the 2000 turn trifilar charging 180,000uf to about 2-3 volts over the battery and triggered by mechanical switch on pully and it took about 2 seconds to get to a few volts above the battery...and that works fine as long as the capacitance seems to be high enough. On that example for example, I would charge the batt like a 12v 7ah gel cell for 1-2 hours then I would turn off the circuit. The voltage would continue to climb and climb for up to an hour with no additional input. According to Bearden, that is the momentum of the lead ions still moving and that may or may not be accurate. Either way, the effect is very real.

Hi Aaron,

thanks for the info. I was wondering, you said you used these hi capacitance caps rated for 60 V, but even if you discharge them at say 16V they still get hit by a few hundred volts from the coil. Isn't this bad for them? Does John do the same?

best regards,

Mario

Hi Mario,

These caps seem pretty hardy and I haven't had any perceivable problems with them. John has used caps around the same voltages I think and with quite a bit higher capacitance.

Been trying to get in for weeks to post but had some strange problem that also strangly corrected itself. very strange! anyways I have been reading many of the discussions regarding the bedini motors here and thanks to all of you especially you aron for the simplified SG schematic I have succesfully replicated my first SG single coil. Well I havent yet tuned my SG but was thinking of using the cap circuit which was given in the free energy book by John. Or maybe I need to master my first creation before moving on.n What do you think?

welcome. I would recommend replicating a ssg circuit and studying its charging capabilities on some new batteries to get some experience. If you get a feel for the basics then you will have a better understanding of the more advanced setups and are less likely to make mistakes. If unlike me, you're an electrical genius then dive right in! I have already learnt so much from the ssg circuit, and it is proving to be a stable platform from which to advance from.

Good luck!

Hi All. I'm running a 555 on my circuit. On my scope I see the signal over the cap rise to 120V (4.7 micro-farad). The voltage over the battery (4Ah) during charge rises to 16V.

question: when you people report about the voltage over the cap, do you use an oscilloscope or DVM (or analog meter)? And if DVM, (digital volt meter), is it true rms?

I'm confused now, because Aaron saying that it is good just to charge 2V over the battery voltage...

2V over the battery is just what John told me to start with and that was 6-7 years ago. It is still a good recommendation I believe especially if you're using high capacitance discharges. I was doing 6 caps at 33,000 uf's each.

It seems to me that there are two ways to cap dump into the battery. On one side there is a high voltage(high potential) but low current hence a 500-600v cap @ 3.3 uf or such. Then I have seen other setups, like Johns in EFTV2 and Aarons video which have a minimum voltage (usually 2 or three volts over source) but a large current capacity, 100,000 uf plus, maybe even Farads. Id be interested to see if anyone has experimented with both as I am hesitant to spend big bucks on large capacitors if a small one but larger potential will achieve the same result.

so this 2V over battery-voltage, is measured with dvm straight on the battery poles during charging?

Thanx for the advice Ren, definatly not an electrical genius, I will keep charging, and documenting. I know their is more to learn then what is obvious, Just get anxious sometimes. Need to walk befor I run though.

thats the spirit splocal. I know how you feel. A part of me is yelling out to wind ten huge coils and make a 20ft, half ton rotor! Maybe its a good thing that I cant afford that kind of wire at the moment.

There are many different variations you can attempt too. I got a little window motor up and running on the Bedini/Cole circuit the other day, which was rather satisfying. The circuit is a little more complex and it took me a few go's to get it. You can have a few projects on the side, and perhaps start collecting things for a cap pulser setup and constructing bit by bit. The best work I've done so far, is the work I have forced myself to be patient with.

The 2 v over battery from the caps is a direct reading attached to the capacitors so I would have to say it is very accurate. Capacitors take out a lot of the pulsing questionability I believe.

I have used high voltage caps with low capacitance as low as 1uf and even as low as 0.1uf and 0.01uf. With these, yes the battery voltage goes up but it is TOOOOOO radiant meaning not enough current is moving the lead ions and it becomes just a fluffy electrostatic charge and not a real charge. Even though we are wanting to charge with voltage potential, there is still a voltage-potential:current ratio that we want to be idea. Too must potential and not enough current is bad...too much current and it is just a hot charge. We want the bare minimum amount of current to get the battery in real charging mode and that doesn't happen if using super low capacitance and high voltage (from my personal hands on experience).

So how would you be able to trigger a capacitor to discharge using a neon bulb? If your cap is only 2V above you 12V batt so lets say 15V cap cause I cant find a 14V one. But your neon bulb is rated at 60V-120V wouldn’t your cap just get real hot because it would never get up to the voltage required to jump the gap in the bulb essentially destroying your cap! And whats the purpose of the SCR is the SCR going to the batt or is it on the SGG side? Iam not as electronically smart as much as most of you. An SCR is basically a diode with a set voltage trigger right? So would that be placed just before the bulb to prevent any Voltage form reversing back to the cap. Iam looking at purchasing a 180000 uf 15V cap but not sure how to oscillate it with the neon bulb any help appreciated!

I just got batteries to test my self oscilating circuit with but something strange happened.

After about 15 mins or so my capacitor began to overheat on the charging side. It's a 450v 3.3 uf capacitor so it should be set properly and be well within range for the unit. I'm using a Neon bulb to trigger the scr so the voltage never gets much above 55 volts in the cap.

Any one have any idea how to keep this from happening?

Ewhaz, I don't know why your capacitor is behaving like this, but I also have a question that someone hopefully can answer. I am going to try the cap pulser setup, but instead a scr or neon I want to use a solid state relay, driven by a 555 timer. The relay is rated for switching up to 250V and 60A. What do you think about this?

Yes, I thought of doing this too. Relays can make much better contacts and may produce better charging effects. Please tell us if you get better results.

If that question was for me, anytime I discharged only a few volts above the battery, it was using 60v caps and each cap was 30,000uf. I had about 6 of them in parallel for about 180,000uf. The discharge for this setup was by mechanical pulley triggering a copper sheet switch that I made. This is the setup that allowed my charging batteries continue to charge/climb for up to an hour after there was no more input from the caps. This makes for a good strong charge.

The only time I used a neon bulb to discharge was on very, very low capacitance caps like 1uf, 0.1uf, 0.01uf and the caps were like 600volts. The voltages on this low of capacitance rose to the neon trigger voltage pretty easy. This setup was charging batts with too much radiant...not enough current to really get the batteries in true charging mode. The voltage climbs but it is really a fluffy electrostatic charge.

I never had capacitors get hot in either situation.

Well, the unit is switching at like 2khz at least so maybe it's just a matter of the frequency. As I said the cap is holding at 55 to 60V with this setup.

The 555 timer set up seems it would work closer to 14hz.. so thats a HUGE difference.

But there is one thing I noticed however. Despite the fact the Cap is holding at 55v the battery still only shows maybe a volt or two above charge. I'm sure the internal impedance of the battery might have something to do with this.

I was hoping anyone with experience would respond so thank you Aaron. I know you have been involved with this work for some time! That is great news maybe I miss read your previous post I thought it was one cap at 180000 uf. 30000 uf caps are much easier to find. I have noticed that even with out the caps I sometimes have received a "fluffy" charge. voltage looks good but battery load is weak. Maybe I need to tune my SG better, I am definatly going to try the caps thanx again!

I found most of these 30,000 uf caps on ebay. I paid about $6 each. If you want to get really high capacitance caps, you can probably find them at car stereo shops, they might be kind of spendy. Probably will save quite a bit just paralleling some 30k uf's.

I bought about ten 16v, 10,000uF rubycon capacitors while paying about 3$ for all of them. This is a cheap option too, if high voltage capacitors are not required.

Thanx for the tips That is much cheaper than the 30$ caps i saw. thanx again!

Man this transistor must be in short supply around the world! Hardly ANY one carries it and they are either charging too much or out of stock! The company I ordered mine from have had my order on back order for over 2 months!

Does any one know where I can get this 2N3584 transistor from? It's like the Very last piece I'm waiting on in order to finish my charger! Thanks in advance.

Alternative: Any compatible transistors that can be used instead of this one, preferably one that is more available?

Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor

has them in stock. Or google semiconductor supplies, there are a heap of online sites that will offer postage options.

I'm going to repost my question here about the batteries, due to the fact that this circuit is not the SSG but rather the self oscilatting circuit with the capacitive discharge.

I spent the day running my system the other day, a total of 12 hours overall. Right off the bat the battery jumped to 13.25 v within 30 mins and then from there simply steadily charged till it got to about 13.97v

The power battery started at 12.66v and dropped to 12.26v for a total drop of .4 v. The charging battery went from 13.25v to 13.97v for a total gain of .72v

Now admittedly the batteries were new, and I didn't discharge the first battery before I put it on the system, so the readings are probably anomalous.

When I swap the batteries, I need to dishcarge the rest of the power battery before I can charge it, I'm assuming that discharging it to 12v is what I'm looking for before it's ready for charging again?

Since I didn't get over the 13.97 volts the other night, I hooked up my charger again.. this time the voltage jumped from 13.45v at the start and shot strait up to 15 volts. I don't want to overcharge or damage the battery so I'm assuming thats where I want to stop?

Reading some of the posts at pewski, there was a message from Bedini or bearden, they mentioned that what would happen is that the battery would peak and then drop slightly after it had been conditioned, basically achieving a steady platue of charging after that, slightly less than the peak. The battery reaching 15 volts so early seems unusual, how long should it take a battery to become conditioned in on this circuit?

Drat.. I was using my charger, wondering why it was taking quite so long to charge.. Well I found out my circuit wasn't triggering properly. I tracked it down to the 555 and replaced it (damn glad I ordered extra) and now it seems to be oscillating properly. Now when the unit runs it has a chirping sound rather than the mosquito buzz. Hopefully It's working now. I'm having a hard time determining if the optocoupler is triggering properly but I do believe it's working for the simple fact that the coil is chirping. From previous experiments while I was assembling this thing, I know it would change pitch when the battery was hooked up on the charging side. If there weren't any connected, it would simply arc through the neon bulb I have there. The neon bulb now flashes, so I'm assuming this means the circuit is being interrupted between the battery and the capacitor.

Unfortunately my capacitors are overheating again, ARG! it's not as bad as it was before but definitely very warm to the touch.. I don't know why it's doing that though, I thought previously it was because the frequency is too high, now its at the right frequency but it's getting way too hot still. There's no such thing as a capacitor with a heat sink.

Update:

I Did a little research on temperature ranges for capacitors. It seems that the lowest I've seen them rated at is about 85 C (Or about 185F) and 105c is about the highest.

The pain threshold is between 54 to 55 C (About 130 F) so as long as it stays cool enough to touch without getting burned, the capacitor should be within it's operational range (Though with some loss to lifetime). However, its always better to be safe than sorry, always use caution when dealing with capacitors as they can explode.

Dual Battery Charger

Here is the original schematic from about 7 years ago or so



Here is one my friend and I built virtually identical to every single spec on the drawing...they way John recommends starting out. Except we had the pulley a little bigger to let the caps get higher. It was the first time I think I ever tried to charge a battery with the SG's. You can see a folded piece of lead sheet on the left...that is wrapped around the battery I was charging in case it blew up.

Here was my original bicycle wheel setup:



I showed a zoom in pic at top left of my mechanical switch.... leads are alligator clips holding thin strips of copper sticking up. The pulley has another strip of copper taped to it and bent just right so that when it comes around counterclockwise, it will gently and evenly scrape both strips making the connection discharging the caps to the charging battery. I know a few people copied my switch and found that it worked great. When I used bigger batts and large cap banks, the exact switch worked perfectly. This is the discharge switch where I could charge for a while, turn everything off and the batt(s) would continue to charge for up to an hour with no more input.