How do you get rid of the 555 timer and get the coil to self ocsillate?? I would like to see a drawing of some of the set up if that is not asking too much.

Thanks,

George

Hi George,

This schematic shows one variation:
Bedini Solid State Oscillators

The part of the schematic on the right side of the coil core self-oscillates.

I did see that in the post. I am just now learning to read schematics so I am a little slow on the uptake. I kept being thrown off by the 555 chip in the lower left side. I guess you were using it to make sure the caps were discharging in a timely manner. I will get up to speed soon, especially with a group of experimentors like you have hear. We are a dying bread. Most people just like to eat what they are fed. I like to see where the boundries really are. I tell people a story about a baby elephant that is chained to a tree to keep it in place at the circus. Early on he pulls and pulls on the chain and learns that he is unable to break his bonds. As years go by, and he grows into a massive beast, they are able to keep him in place with a little rope tide to a stake in the ground. It is no longer the rope that holds him in captivity. He is a prisoner of his own beliefs!

Question everything!!

Hi George,

Yes the 555 is to pulse the cap bank to a battery.

The easiest way to get a SG circuit to oscillate is to keep increasing the resistance at the base of the transistor until you hear the coil buzzing like a mosquito. You might need to have a magnet just sitting on top of the coil.

This isn't the optimum tuning method to do this but is the fastest way to just have it oscillate. If you're using good size coils, just be careful that you are monitoring your caps so they don't get overcharged because they can rise pretty quick.

That is so true about the elephant analogy!

Thank you so much for freely sharing your time and information. I truly appreciate it.

George

Im not sure this fits here but I found some interesting properties in my sg powered window motor today. I was charging the other day and the charge batt was hovering and ever so slowly increasing from 13.20 to 13.30 over two hours. I am able to trip it into self oscilliation at certain resistances for similar amp draw, but as you guess much faster switching times. When I set it to self oscillate, the charging batt jumped upwards in voltage instantly and climbed to over 14.60 volts within a couple of minutes.

I found it interesting that I could power the wheel and charge, but as soon as I kicked it into solidstate, the top end (13.5 - 15v) charged rapidly. It doesnt charge that fast when the battery is lower. It seems like a good way to top up the last 10% of the charge cycle. I have still to get a suitable pot to adust the frequencies but amp draw is very similar to its rotational state. The ssg circuit has a bridge to collect to cap and scr.

Hi all,

I notice that my battery charges faster when I adjust the frequency down to 120hz. If I increase the frequency while charging, the voltage across the battery goes down and stays there until I adjust the frequency back down.

I would have thought the more pulses would equal more radiant energy to the battery but for some reason, it charges slower this way.


Solace


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Attached Images

RE spikes 7.JPG (143.9 KB, 40 views)

At the higher frequency, I believe your voltage potential to current ratio is too high...slow it down and you increase the amount of current. You need enough current to get the battery into real charging mode. If the radiant is too pure at the higher frequencies, it will be a fluffy "static" charge.

I'm don't mean just charge with a lot of current...just enough.

Ren,

I have seen this happen too, but, my theory is that normal batteries are dead, according to the Radiant charger, so when a normal battery is fully charged, like say it is at 12.7 volts, the radiant charger suddenly bursts it up to 14-15 volts, I think that one should leave it like that to make the battery super charged, with a standing voltage of 13.7v and double the capacity.

Bedini talks about this in the video and states: "A 33 Ah battery may look like a 65 Ah battery".

So, When the voltage of the battery jumps up suddenly to 15 volts, it means that the battery is charged one step and is going to be super charged, if you let it there.

Anyway, only thoughts

Elias

Here is the thing though. When I do the 1 ohm test, it is obvious that there is little if any current going to the battery. It is my understanding that the radiant energy causes the battery to charge itself.

I am not using the cap discharge method, only the SG solid state set up with bifiler coil. I don't get a static charge at either low (120 hz) or higher (450hz) frequency. The only difference is the charge time seems to be slower at the higher frequency. The frequency doesn't go very high even with 10k ohms of resistance in the trigger circuit. 450hz is what I get with 10k.

Hmmmmm....

I found that my cap also charges much faster at low frequency 115hz as opposed to even 180hz. I was charging an uncooperative 9.6v NiCad and decided to put a large non-polarized 600uf 250v cap in parallel and break the connection to the negative of the battery leaving only the cap connected.

At high frequency 200 hz, the cap took 3 or 4 seconds to charge and the neon didn't even light up. At 115hz, the cap charged as soon as the battery was disconnected and the neon light right up. The connection to the battery sparked pretty good when reconnecting.

At first the NiCad would only charge to about 5volts but after shocking it with the cap blast a few times, it has decided to be more cooperative and is now up to 7.5volts and charging.

Hi,

About solid state oscillators, you can have a look here also:

http://radiant.100free.com/zpe_bedini_solid.html

(of course you may find other info in the all website, 300 pages html)

Hi everyone,

I have built the solid state circuit according to the schematic in the book. Have noted that my draw from the run battery is 25ma. This circuit sounds like my ssg but has the additional whine from the coil. I checked the frequency of both the positive and negative output and they seem to be hovering around 2khz.

One question that I haven't been able to find an answer for is, should my cap be making the clicking noise? It is not warm to the touch. But it makes the same sound as my ssg did. It's a dc cap 600v 3.3uf poly I believe. I thought I might have had it backwards but there are no markings on it to indicate polarity.

does your back end have an scr?

It does have an SCR on the back end. I can watch the cap go a little over 70 volts and then drop to 60 then back up again.

I actually made a typo in reference to my ma draw. It's actually 250ma.

I only ask because I have read about someone elses experiences with solid state and they were under the impression the scr was making the audible clicking noise.

It was the polarity of the cap being hooked up in reverse causing the clicking. It was also keeping the voltage from climbing past 72v. I swapped both of them around and now the clicking is gone and I get a steady 2.203 khz on both negative and positive output. The cap also is moving up quickly beyond 300v when I checked. It only puts out a single gnat noise now.

Now we'll see how the radiant night treats it.

nice

For 555 timers I use this online calculator:555 Timer Calculator

It figures on time and off time as well as frequency and duty cycle. You cant get 50 percent duty cycle but you can get close with a 555.

Hi all,

i just loaded the solid state charger with a conditioned 7aH battery. On
the input was a TINY 1.3aH battery.

The start voltage on the 7ah was 12.57 volts
The start voltage on the 1.3ah was 12.96 Volts

I put the 1.3 aH battery as the input on the solid state, and tuned
the pot right down i could tell the draw, i heard the ringing on the
tri filla coil., so i know some thing was going in.

I put the 7aH battery on charge and left to it on to see what happened.

The 7Ah battery charged to nearly 13.30 volts, the 1.3ah lost it after
nearly 40 minutes to zero.

I loaded the 7ah on a fixed resistor at the c20 rate, the battery held
charge from 12.89 to 12.69 Volts (original was 12.57).

There you go, a 1.3aH battery can charge a 7aH CONDITIONED battery.
Here is the snap more to come.
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/3491/41821419mg4.jpg

At the front you can see the Tiny 1.3ah hour 12 volt battery, in the
middle is Clives solid state i posted a while back, at the end is the
7aH battery showing the charge.

video coming , ill do the test again.

Ash


My Q for Peter is, can a 1.7aH battery charge a 7aH battery conventionally COLD?