It sounds like the resistance of your coil is too high for a simple continuity test. I am not familiar with a meter that shows a 1 only when resistance is out of range. You might try selecting a higher resistance scale on your meter until you can actually read the resistance of the coil. The nine volt battery test shows that you actually have a connection through the coil, but it may be of very high resistance. A digital meter will read the voltage through the coil even if the current is only a few microamps. If the resistance is very high there was probably current going through the bulb when you did the bulb test, it was just too low to light the bulb.

Good luck, citfta

Same here Great minds... lol

I wouldn't have thought 3000 turns of 30 guage wire would have very high resistance.... should only be in the tens of ohms which shouldn't prevent a continuity test.

but those are very long wires in that coil... Did you splice several lengths of wire together?

I am just wondering if anyone out there has tried Air as the core for the electro magnet / trigger? (basically no iron, just an empty hole of air).

The reason I ask, is that I noticed that my solid iron core heats up a bit. I will be transitioning to welding rod type core but have yet to do so. But regardless of what type of iron that is used for the core, there will be system losses in the metal as it magnetizes and demagnetizes.

Just wondering if anyone tried Air.

regards,

Have done it, lower RPM, and a bear to get it started. Did not give me good charging rate.

When you hook a neon to DC it will only light up one of the prongs inside the bulb, AC lights them both.

Hello.
Have spent countless hours reading here and watching the youtube links posted and i've finally got my SSG running
I was too shy to ask noob questions so just kept reading until I was able to piece all the info together to get mine going.
Sephiroth's videos were extremely helpful, thank you , but i made the mistake of trying to build his circuit first which failed to work. Got back to basics and used the circuit at the start of this thread and its worked out great.

VCR motor stripped down
4 Neo magnets held on by aluminum tape
IN4007
IN4148 between Emitter and Base/ cant find IN4001
1K pot with no resistor
0.4 and 0.7 coil wire approx 350 turns
10mm Ferrite core. Cut to size with hammer and chisel
Coils wrapped directly onto core.

Using a power supply, Walmart to some, from something, maybe an old modem
just not sure was lying on my work bench. It says its a 9v/500ma but I get 11.5 volts when using my multimeter ?
RPMs unknown but not slow.

Now that I have it running was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction to start doing real test on my SSG. I feel kinda stupid asking this but how do I use my multimeter to get all the Amps/Volts and Ohms data I see being spat out in all these posts ?

Thanks

Welcome aboard!

You have found as I have that the voltage printed on power supplies just aint what comes out of them. Which is ok, just something you need to be aware of.

I do want to thank Sephiroth for his excellent work for newbies how to get their systems going, he has been a big help to me to getting my first one going.

As to how to read your multimeter, first, check that silly thing called a manual if you can find it Next best is to look on youtube for videos on electronics, I have found many how to videos there that have helped me along the way when i had questions of what to do. I have found that digital multimeters are not fast enough to give accurate readings. Old analog meters do a much better job.

I think you might find the Yahoo's group monopole section very helpful, they have means of how to measure your output from your SSG. Here is a link to a very well done setup for the monopole group..

http://jasonwolf.com/energy/radiant/index.html

Excellent work there in his spreadsheets and testing out the SSG.

Mart

Kickbak even me I could not find the 1N4001.The 1N4148 is good?
Are there other diodes that can be used instead the 1N4001 apart 1N4148?
Thanks.

I myself try to stay exactly to spec so I order most of the parts from Mouser or Digikey, or Ebay ( carefully ).

Yes many other diodes will work to allow the wheel to turn, but.....

You are venturing into the unknown. Maybe be good, be not so good....

I like to stay with exact specs, then..... explore all the other alternatives...

But I understand not everyone has the $ to sink into this, and are building from what ever they can lay their hands on. I have found the replications on Sterlings site very very helpful for learning what others have found works..

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications - PESWiki

I keep going back there because so much can be found out, much more makes sense after building for a while.

Mart

theremart.
Thanks for the quick response
Will do some more reading and get to using this multimeter i've had for years. Only know how to test voltage, out of circuit resistors/Capacitors and thats it.

I read a post here that said you could even use the 1N4007 as a replacement for the 1N4001 but I had a few of the 1N4148's handy so tried one of those and the circuit worked. I'm still to work out why the 50v diode is of significance to this part of the circuit. Is 50v the max input you can have going thru the diode before it fails and toasts the transistor ?

The diode from the base of the transistor to the emitter is only to protect the transistor. The circuit will work without it but you run the risk of destroying the transistor. The diode keeps the reverse current from destroying the base to emitter junction of the transistor. You can also use a 1N914 if you are having trouble finding the 1N4001.

citfta

The diode is for rectifying the two pulses that a magnet generates, and the transistor will switch with the north and virtual south.

The diode here will produce a loop, that trigger the transistor with north and south with the south face.



Do you have tried to run it without that diode?

The diode 1n914 and 1n4148 will work on bedini sg

hi hans!
don´t know if you already found something good, but here is a good adress to order wire. i tried conrad.de, but it seems they have only small spools, so try this one: sauter-shop
anyway... thats not netherlands, but nearby
robot

Hi Robot,

Welcome to the forum......
How your setup going?

hi selamatg!

thanks! still not running yesterday i tried that very simple circuit mentioned in the beginning of this thread. but nearly same results. though i could make some good measuring and a magnetic field was established when wheel speed was high enough (but only 3-5 volts coming through the powercoil with 12v input) (about 50mv in TC while field is up - if not only )

i really thing it depends on my coils, so right now i´m waiting for the ordered wire to build me a new one... but, slowly my picture of the whole thing clears up ... and i thought about building that whole thing more openly so that every part of the circuit could be replaced pretty quick...

so again... the real revolution should be the evolution of the mind ...

hopefully more to come,
robot

The diode here will increase the south pulse positive voltage and current and keep the transistor safe in the north pulse negative current.

A little moment before virtual south appears... the transistor will trigger on and the coil will charge with current... and this will move the rotor.

A simulation, the trigger coil generates a sine wave, not a perfectly one but, this will simulate very well what is happening here:

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...d=121992950 7
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...d=121992974 7

Attached Images

	simul.JPG (42.9 KB, 25 views)
	simul2.JPG (41.4 KB, 22 views)

try to decrease the base resistor on the transistor , it will produce a voltage increase in the trigger, the resistor in this particular case will decrease the voltage and current and will put some kind of energy here that trigger the transistor this is from my own experience, but if you don't have the minimun current and voltage the transistor will not function properly.

I don't know why my transistor triggers with values 680 ohm resistance in my setup, , what i saying here is : the colector emitter voltage is 12 volts when the transistor triggers on, the current 50 ma, with a base emitter voltage of 2 or 3 volts and current 1 or 2 ma , this is no conventional trigger!


http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...d=121993587 3

simulating my setup, 1hz frequency here is just only to view the wave in the right form

Attached Images

simul3.JPG (46.6 KB, 22 views)

Has anyone tried the Trigger and Energized winding in the bifilar setup to have the same gauge?

I was thinking of making a new coil, with 28 awg and 28awg (instead of say 23awg and 28 awg).

Any comments on what I am thinking of doing? The real reason is cost. I already made two coils, one uses 20 awg and 24 awg. The 20 awg wire makes the coil get very wide and expensive. I have another coil made with 24awg and 28 awg. I ran out of the 24 awg and have very much 28 awg (thinner wire the coils are very small for 500 turns!!! and not so expensive)