I might add that to check your bifilar coil, you should energize the ends and make sure that it's repulsing a magnet. You should energize the smaller wires, then the larger wires. If those repulse a magnet, then you should check to make sure that when you energize one of the small wires with one of the larger wires that nothings happens (no shorts between the small wires and the large wires).

If those tests come out positive, then you need to look at some other part of the system.

For the benefit of everyone, just so we are on the same page.

This was screen grabbed from "A Practical Guide to Free Energy Devices".

Attached Images

wire sizes.jpg (113.1 KB, 87 views)

well shamus
i didnt try your method but i use multimeter if there is a cut between thick wire and thin wire.
it seems there is no cut.
when i plug the thin wire to battery i can measure the voltage .(it works)
when i plug the thick wire i can also measure the voltage (it works)

but there is something strange
i can see the voltage between my wires and it shows it is working.
but when i switch my multimeter to diode testing mode.
there is no sound between wires. if i am not wrong if i give pulse from the top of the wire i have to hear the beep sound when i touch the bottom of the wire?
it only gives a value but no beep.
the big wire gives 0.20
the small wire gives 0.50 value.
it is nonsense. if no beep it means there is a cut.
if there is a cut how i can get voltage from the other side?
hehehe it getting really interesting

and amigo thanks for the table.. it is really very usefull

i have been gathering items to make the SG, and i think i found the perfect rotor. i wanted to share it with the group because it is such a cheap and easy item.



it is very easy to fit a plastic of wooden disc over the bail area (the part that spins). you can remove the handle if it is in the way, OR you could attach a second disc to that with magnets for a seperate generator. also, the spool moves up and down, which could have another magnet attached to it, which would spin a secondary magnet rotor for free.

these can be found at MANY garage sales, flea markets, and even online. the throw on these is so smooth and one fast turn will cause the reel to spin for quite a while. bearing quality is top notch, and due to the nature of the reel, it is easy to mount them anywhere.

otherwise, i found very cheap ceramic hybrid bearings on ebay through a skateboard store. 6 for $25 + $4.50 shipping. here is another one that is cheaper : 8 CERAMIC ABEC 7 SKATE SKATEBOARD BEARINGS NR - (eBay item 160160512792 end time Sep-25-07 05:13:07 PDT)


-bryan

Hi Bryan,

It seems that Rick Friedrich is getting good results converting a brushless muffin fan into an SG.

http://www.cheniere.org/correspondence/091807.htm

wow, that is awesome... not too bad a price either.

Hey Aaron, I've been meaning to ask, but are you a member of the elite Bedini_Monopole list and if you are, what do you have to do to get in?

It seems that talking about it on Bedini_Monopole3 is like talking about Fight Club--the first rule of Bedini_Monopole is that you don't talk about Bedini_Monopole!

Hi Shamus,

I'm not a member of that group now and don't remember if I ever was.
The instructions on how to join are listed on their homepage:

The CONDITIONS for joining and remaining on these lists are:

1. Giving your full real name;
2. Building an Energizer as directed on the above linked page;
3. Being able to actively contribute to this research in performing simple tests from month to month and reporting the results.

There are quite a few Bedini groups and I would be very picky where I spend my time. There isn't any one in particular I would recommend but you could join as many as there are and feel them out. I would go thru the photos and files sections of each one and download everything of value to you. In only a few days, you can see by the posts the personality of usefulness of the group.

I guess what Aaron said he put "between the lines" so I'll try to read that part of the text. (of course it's just my opinion and I could be wrong)

The public Bedini_monopole3 group seems to me to sometimes focus on a pissing contest between certain members, and at other times promoting kits built and sold by founding members. Nothing wrong with the later though, selling kits is fine since some people aren't savvy in hunting down materials themselves. I just feel that there's some "bad blood" between certain members either because their egos are clashing or they are very territorial (alpha males?).

In any case, majority of posts and members are very useful and there's plenty to learn from their experiences. Lots of various designs and ideas in the photo gallery and file section as well.

What I wonder about is the Bedini_Window_Energizer group which is totally closed?!

I just hope it is not one of those secret, "no Homers", elitist Kabbalah groups where you have to become a satanist to join.
Hehe, ok I'm kidding, but I do not condone any kind of secret activity when it comes to a even a possibility of freeing our World. There are already to many things kept away from us - for our own sake (or so our Overlords tell us).

ya, i have almost leached all the info i need from this site, then movin on
HAHAHAHA IM ONLY KIDDING!! i like this group, it is very peaceful and quiet.

i have seen on some of those sites, some of the same attitudes that we get from mainstream scientists "THIS is the way to do it, NOT that way" and they become what i assume they hated in the beginning. some really snotty and arrogant people out there.

Thanks Aaron and muchas gracias, amigo. Sorry if I put you on the spot there, but it's been a frustrating month of no major results to report.

At any rate, I thought it might be worthwhile to get into the Bedini_Monopole group because John Bedini contributes there. Also, from what I've seen, quite a few people on the Bedini_Monopole3 group have personal contact with John. This was all deduced from trying to find every shred of text that John put out there on the web (since the FEG book says all his stuff is on the internet but that's not entirely true anymore), and quite some time tracking down all his posts on the Bedini_SG group.

I know John has popped in here (rarely!) from time to time, and I'm glad when he does. It still boggles my mind that so many people on the Bedini_SG group wouldn't put out even the slightest effort and build a machine, especially when it's so damned easy!

So anyway, on a more hopeful note, I pulled the battery off of my wife's car (since it seemingly died) and put it on the SSG for a couple of hours and the thing seemed to accept the charge quite readily. Also, the car started without any problems. It seems that real lead-acid batteries respond better to this kind of charging than the SLA gel cell style of lead-acid battery.

Hi Shamus,

Yes, the real liquid lead acids are much better than the gel cells. The gel cells work really well for learning and just to get your feet wet. I haven't really used deep cycles but more like motorcycle batts and car batts. Both liquid lead acids but not true deep cycles. They respond incredibly well.

I see a need that needs to be filled unless someone beats me to it

I pulled the bolt out, tested the wires and they are OK. My problem was wiring the transistor. I messed up all connections to EBC. Now I am getting 0.3A and coil is humming. I tried to check what kind of flux I am getting and didn't look much at all. I tried with the wheel but nothing happened. Any idea what can be wrong?

Adam, I went to thrift store and bought the old inline skates for $3.99. I throw away the boots and now I have 8 wheels.
Erkan

i was going to do that, but im a big fishing buff and have tons of old reels laying around.

I forgot to add I changed 10 ohm with 680 ohm and resistor and diode get very hot. When I disconnect the resistor there is no current flow.

Hi ERKAN,

I think you have fried the transistor. If you use 2N3055 transistor, do the following steps to check if the transistor still ok or not.

1. Set multimeter in diode mode.
2. Touch positive probe to transistor base and negative probe to transistor.
3. You should see readings or beep sound from your multimeter.
4. Now touch negative probe to transistor base and positive probe to transitor emitter.
5. There shouldn't be any readings or beep sound from multimeter. If does then replace new transistor.

Other info :

• Bifilar wound 850 turns of #23 & #26 clockwise direction.
• Use battery 12VDC only.
• Positive #26 goes to 680 ohm then to transistor base and negative #26 goes to battery negative.
• Positive #23 goes to battery positive and negative #23 goes to transistor collector.
• Small push to rotor should rotate now.

Make the rotor rotate first then go for tuning.

Checked everything what you guys said and still nothing. When I disconnect the resistor I get 0A for the circuit and 12V at transistor.

I pulled everything appart. Then I took new diode, resistor and transistor. Now I get 111mA and litle of humming when magnet is on the coil. I also replaced the neo magnets with normal ones. Neo magnets were very small and the new ones are 3/4" diameter. But whele is still not spining. WhenI put the coil next to the magnet it repels. I don't have a core in my winding.
I have one question: "If you disconnect smaller wire winding should motor work?". When I disconnect the second coil I get 0 amps. If circuit is energized and than connect the smaller wire winding it is still 0 amps. I have to turn the power off and than urn it on in order to work.
What am I doing wrong?

Hi Ekran,

Can you give details of your setup?

1. No of turns for coil winding?
2. Gauge of wires used?
3. Components used like transistor, diodes and others?

Too little windings for trigger coil will not trigger the transistor. TO3 transistor casing is a bit tricky to identify base and emmiter. Check everything again. Bedini SSG should start easily if the components connected correctly.

I am using transistor 2n3055, diode 1n4001, resistor 680 ohm, bifilar coil with 680 turns of #23 and #26. Rotor is wheel taken from inline skates with four 3/4" round magnets from Home depot. I don't have a core because I could't find R60 welding rods. Before I tried to use bolt but somebody said it is better not to use anything if you don't have R60.

Hi Erkan,

The welding rod is better than solid core, but and air core won't let the magnet induce enough to trigger the transistor. I would find some solid piece just for now at least until you get welding rod. I think that might do the trick.