Hi Shamus,

On John's coils, I believe he uses about 100 feet per wire.

For the pots, you can put one in line with a resistor. Hook a scope to it. When you slowly start turning your wheel you might see 4 spikes per pulse...when up to speed you only want to see 1 spike per pulse...turn the pot until you only get 1, measure the total resistance, then replace with fixed resistor of the closest value to the tuned resistance. If you don't have a scope, you can use a radio or something else to hear or see the spikes.

1374 is quite high and if you hear noise from the coil, it is self oscillating...definitely needs less.

Also, can tune the circuits with a bulb in line with the resistor. I'll find reference for this. Also, can put 90v neon bulb across the collector and emitter as protection.

My setup has a 100 ohm and 1k rheostat in the base, NE-2 (EC), 1N914 (EB), 1N4005 on the output from collector (when second battery is connected).
Coil probably has around 450 winds 26/24AWG with usual 1/16" copper coated rods (R45 not R60 though it shouldn't matter, that quality only applies to welding application)
In the source battery I use 8x1.2V NiMh 2300mAh or a 12V 1.2 Ah gel battery.

I guess you've just answered one of my questions above, I have been seeing more than one trigger per cycle which sort of baffled me? I know JB is talking about the "h" waveform and I have seen it on my scope from time to time, but it is always preceded by couple of more spikes. Most I could get it is one or two spikes and an "h".

What bugs me even more is that I get quite different waveforms depending on the batteries I use. I'm attaching some examples...

First scope photo shows just a motor setup (no second battery) while the second one has a second battery in (don't mind the noise in the waveform, comes from the AC adapter scope is hooked up to).

When I wind the rheostat to what I think is over 1k resistance, I eventually reach self-oscillation point, but the waveform changes as well and becomes more uniform, with consistent spikes, sometimes as large as 200V.

I think my disc/magnet assembly needs to be reworked, I did not have bearing assemblies or an axle, so I used bearings from a broken CD-ROM unit and as a result the disc with magnets is suspended above the coil, held by the aluminium bar across.

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Here's what I also wonder and if it sounds newbieish - it is, should the neon bulb turn on as you wind the pot towards the higher resistance on the base circuit?

I have tried different combos, things like 10 ohm resistor and 25 ohm rheostat as well as 100 ohm resistor and 1 K rheostat, but I noticed that there's a threshold when the NE-2 lights up and starts pulsing at some low resistance and then it just gets brighter and pulsing starts changing into constant light.

I also forgot to note that my coil in the photo there is wound the opposite way (I'm left-handed and I blame this right-hander's world for making me do so ) but it still appears to be working.

Need I say that I'm glad that there's at least three more people here who post on a daily basis keeping our little adventure going. I know charging batteries and proving it works is fun, but perhaps we could do something more practical with this, applicable to our daily lives.

Practical alternative energy is not really my primary field of interest, though I have been following it for years now, at least the theoretical part.
Reason I wanted to try JB's motor was because it produces radiant energy and I'd like to use it as a source in another experiment...

Should I elaborate on that here or start another thread elsewhere on this board? I would like to get some feedback from people with more experience in this than myself, so I do not go chasing "windmills" for no reason, and I do have your attention here.

Hi Amigo,

Yes, when in self oscillation, the off on is so fast that the potential is compressed in time so you can get some very high voltage spikes.

You may find the wheel gets faster with a plastic bar instead of aluminum. As the magnets pass the aluminum bar, they induce counter currents in the aluminum that repel and probably slow the rotor slightly. It is ok if the magnets are embedded in an aluminum rotor turning with the magnets but very different from a part of the frame that is aluminum.

If the neon doesn't light that is ok, if it does light that is ok too. Think of the neon as an overshoot gap where if the voltage is too high and could fry the transistor, it will just be partly consumed and diverted by the neon. Like Kevin said, has fried some transistors without. He was using some more heavy duty multi coil setups compared to these smaller versions so becomes more necessary but good to get a feel for what they do.

Feel free to start a new thread on the project you want to apply radiant energy to.

Hello again,

Well, I managed to improve my contraption by several levels of magnitude.

I have moved the shaft to horizontal position, got real bearing assemblies, and changed my rotor to be more sturdy (four clear plastic discs from blank CD-R cases glued together ), as well as put more powerful magnets (Electronics Goldmine G16370, $0.40 each) which I found to be one of the key elements. My older smaller magnets (see pictures above) did not seem sufficient enough - with the new ones rotor requires just a gentle push to start.

I still think my coil is wound in a wrong way (damn you right-handers World) so it might have to unwind and wind again (sigh). Though it still works so what gives?

I've hooked a mA meter to the circuit and a 10 ohm resistor to the secondary/charging output, so I can fine tune the rheostat and transistor base voltage to lowest current usage from the primary.
Amazingly enough this assembly can draw as low as 50mA (or even less) which with the 8x1.2V 2300mAh batteries I use to test with means I can run hours/days?

This has pretty much encouraged me (by a number of folds) to proceed into next stages and acquire a more serious quantity of magnet wire and wind more coils

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hey amigo, your setup looks really good. i havnt yet started to build this stuff yet, im still gathering data, and resources before i begin.

with having a coil situated only on one side of your rotor, do you experience an unbalanced rotation? by that i mean is there unequal stress(on your bearings) on one side due to the electromagnetic "pressure" from your coil?

thanks-

bryan

Hi Bryan

I think fabrication in home environment to begin with is a nightmare. I live in a high-rise apartment building so you can imagine a limited amount of woodwork and metalwork one can do.

Now, my rotor appears unbalanced as it is, when I was gluing plastic discs together I think I put too much glue in a layer on one side. Then, because I mounted two bearings on the sides of the rotor and did not have a proper mounting points the whole thing seems to be off axis slightly (heck I'm lucky it spins without too much wobble).

I do not have means to measure any stress except to visually discern that there is some drag happening. I think the better setup is the roller skate wheel one where gravity aids the process.

I suggest you start somewhere, see what kind of materials you can gather and build your first prototype. Finding the right parts sometimes proves to be a real pain - not everyone has a machine shop available to them. Besides, your SSG can't look worse than my first one

From there you will realize mistakes and correct them on your own pretty fast. I was amazed myself with ideas I came up to fix things after the first trial run, even though I had to scourge for parts and come up with all kinds of ways to supplement the lack of real machined components.

ive never tried machining before, but one of my main hobbies is woodworking.
building the housing wouldnt be the problem, just gathering the circuit materials. i currently own a pets tore that sucks the life out of me, with 14 hours+ per day 6 days a week, plus sundays at auctions, seminars, family gatherings, and finally home maintenance, my hands are full. (not to mention my consortium group)

im sure i have all of the materials in my shop now, but i havnt even been down there in almost 2 years.

you could always use a Lazy Susan plate for your rotor. you can buy them brand new for less than 7$ from Rockler or maybe even SEARS.. (not sure where you live). it consists of two metallic plates with roller bearings in between. they are also used for mounting pivoting stools, VERY sturdy, and prettty smooth travel. or if you have an old stool, you could take it off of that. (i always see neighbors throwing those out)

you can measure the degree of tilt with a simple method. run your machine, then measure the gap of the rotor to the closest flat surface. repeat this for your other side. draw it out on paper, connect the dots and use a compass to find your degree of error.

it looks to me if you put a second coil on the other side, it would balance everything out.

this sunday i will go down and blow the dust off everything, and see if i cant start on this.

-b

thats a great idea, probably cheaper in the long run also i imagine.


i cant wait until i can get back into my shop. i actually found my multi-meter, a few AC motors, wire and a ton of Neo magnets.

you know, the one bad thing about the internet is the distance away from everyone. would be nice to walk over to anothers shop and ask questions and actually point to the problem. it would be easier to work together as well. one person builds the housings, one winds the coils, etc. would be a lot more efficient.

-b

LOL, how did you figure that number out, don't tell me you sat there and counted?

Now that would be truly fantastic if only we did not have the distance separating all of us. I often thought about seeking people who are doing similar things in my area, but I'm not sure where to look and posting a public call on the Web might draw un-necessary attention

I guess the best I can do is go visit David Hamel who's probably two or so hours away by car, though I'd still have to get a hold of him first and see if he still accepts visitors...

i bet he used a tachometer and figured the revolutions per hour, then multiplied that by an estimated average hour per day usage, multiple by months, years etc.

if he timed his RPM's at 300 all he would need to do is measure the first minute. multiply 300 times lets say 60 minutes for RPH per day = 18,000RPH times lets say 8 hours = 144,000RPD
and if he did this every day 144,000* 364 = 52,416,000
and with his revolutions 52,416,000/27,000,000= 1.94years.

rough guess.

HOLY SMOKES!! 24 hours a day?!?!?!
i cannot believe you havnt built the home power unit yet!!

i need to hurry up and jump on this bandwagon.


wow

I am wondering whether my contraption can actually be used to charge batteries because I have been trying without any visible success. My coil does not have 800 winds or the same size as "prescribed", but JB said geometry is not an issue.

I'm hoping that the "Free Energy Generation" book I've ordered will have more answers for me because it all looks nice on paper and in the videos. The monopole motor is spinning but that's as far as it goes and when it comes to exact replication of the effects JB is getting it al becomes a different story.

well, compair his years and years of testing an experience to yours... how does it compair? im willing to wager that he had MANY frustrating failures before he got it right.

patience, it will happen... otherwise we can take a field trip to Kevins house and ask to borrow his !!! hahaha only kidding Kevin.

I'm just saying that it should be easier to reproduce than this for the exact reason that JB has spent his life's work on this and he had ironed out the quirks the best he could. Thus the collective consciousness/knowledge has been supplemented with that information and it should get easier to accomplish in shorter time what it took him originally.

I look at it this way, if some poor schmuck eons ago burnt his/her hand in fire, none of us should have to put their hand into fire to prove it'll get burnt again (or to experience it) - we already have that lesson learned.

point taken.

and i doubt anyone would sell a working one. as in the past, what usually happens is the person that has all the secrets dies with all the secrets, and their lifes work is wasted. (stan, nikola, gray, etc.)

Hi Amigo,

On the smaller models, they won't do big practical charging but works well for very small batts. I would definitely learn as much as you can on these small motors before going big.

For bigger practical use, the 5 wire coils (4 power 1 trigger) of about 18 awg and about 100' per coil are much better. Also picture about 6 of these coils around one rotor.

It takes time to learn to tune, etc... and isn't over night. also, it is important the batts getting charged are properly conditioned. charge discharge, repeat, etc...

There are a lot of great yahoo groups on the Bedini stuff but despite a lot of good info mixed in with the background noise, I see people trying to reinvent Bedini's circuits over and over and over and over and over.

Just keep it simple. Learn what you can from the small model, learn to tune it get a feel for it and really meditate on it. You have to mix some intuitive feel with logic and you'll be ok. Even if you don't get over 1.0 COP doesn't matter. If you can have the best way to charge batteries in the world, increase their capacity and extend their life...you are much more ahead than most people.

I simply do not have the means to build anything larger, I live in a 2 bdrm apt. so space is a big limitation. My hope was to see similar results with any size device because JB said geometry was not an issue.

But I totally agree, it is a learning experience and I have learnt heaps more than what I knew when I begun this journey.

As far as the Yahoo groups, I have them all bookmarked but never actually went to read posts. I feel it will take me days to catch up on things and that's why I have chosen a smaller forum (no offense) - this one. It just has a more homey feel to it and a personal touch by the members here. You sooner develop that belonging feeling...

Thanks.

Now that I know what happens when a magnet passes by a coil, I can see there were some flaws in my original characterization. Hopefully this will set that straight.

Looking at the first picture, we see a magnet coming in towards a coil, attracted towards the iron core. As it approaches it induces a small current in both coils (represented on the schematic as small batteries). In both cases, the current is blocked and so nothing happens.

Moving on to picture #2: Once the magnet passes the center of the coil, the current reverses direction. At this point, current flows in the trigger loop thus also biasing the transistor on. Also, during this whole process, the iron core of the coil has become a temporary magnet with the south pole at the top and the north pole at the bottom.

On to picture #3. Now that the transistor is biased on, current is free to flow from the battery through the transistor and on into the coil. This causes the magnetic field in the core to abruptly switch polarity, causing a sharp gradient in the local virtual particle flux in the near vicinity of the coil and the appearance of radiant energy. The scalar south pole may also play a part in the radiant event as well--my knowledge in this area is still woefully incomplete.

At any rate, the magnet gets a strong kick away (the scalar south may also be attracted in at the same time, YMMV) from the north pole that is now manifest at the top. As the magnet moves away, the current in the trigger wire stops and so the transistor stops conducting and shuts off the battery. Some of the radiant energy flows to the source battery, keeping it from running down too quickly. As the next magnet comes in, the cycle repeats.

Anyhow, that's how I see it. Any comments and clarifications are most welcome!

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Hi Shamus,

These diagrams looks great and I'm doing my best to keep track of what you're showing.

In the middle pick you have electron current moving into the base and up through the emitter at the same time. Would those oppose each other?

It is personally difficult for me to follow circuits based on electron current.

With 3 flows around a circuit:

1. Pos potential moving from + on dipole towards negative.
2. Neg potential moving from - on dipole towards positive.
3. Electron current moving from - on dipole towards positive.

I usually look at circuits in terms of how is the positive flow moving. Then I automatically know that the electron current is opposing that.

Hi Aaron,

You're probably right about the transistor, since it is an NPN type the current would probably flow out of the base towards the current loop on the trigger side--I don't know all that much about them, so this is another hole in my knowledge. Any pointers to good material on the subject would be most welcome. Other than that, I made diagram #2 show the current flow just before the base is biased. So I probably should have clarified that.

For me personally, I have to think in terms of electron flow in order to think about how the circuit works--I blame the physics classes I took at uni for that. But yes, you could draw flows going out of the positive ends of the little batteries and everything as I've described it above would still hold true.

On other thing of note here is the resistor. What that does, from what I can see, is narrow the amount of time that the base of the transistor is biased. So if you have a low ohmage there, the base of the resistor will see most of that negative sine wave pulse. As the ohms go up, the base will see less and less of that wave (think of the amplitude of the negative wave going towards the zero line). Once you have so much ohmage that the base doesn't bias on, then you have self-oscillatory behavior which I don't fully comprehend at the moment. But the thing to keep in mind is that this circuit isn't configured to properly handle that.

One other thing that I forgot to mention is that fully understanding what's going on in this circuit is the key that will unlock the pendulum's black box.

Since it's been done (by John) and is in the collective unconscious, it should be a trivial thing to unlock that sucker.

Hi guys,
This is my first post. I am trying to make SSG but I am doing something wrong and cannot see what. My coil is 2" long, 680 winds of #23 and #26 and as a core I am using a 3/8" bolt. Rotor is roller blade with six 1/4" neo magnets. Other parts are 2n3055, 10 ohm and 1n4007 diode. Problem is that rotor will not rotate, I mean I don't have a motor. I start the wheel and after 3 seconds it stops. I am getting 3A at the coil. I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Erkan

3A is way too much current for such a small setup. It should rather be up to 100mA or less. Check your wiring. Also do not use neo magnets, that could be one of your problems. Is your transistor alive? Maybe you have blown your transistor. Also Im thinking, that the iron bolt could be saturated by strong neo magnets and can't demagnetize very fast. Try some other core material.

hi i am also a new member of your wonderful message board.
your workship and your prototypes pushed me to do one for me and try to learn what is radiant energy.
i have also same problem like erhan.
2 reasons could cause this problem
1- the transistor burned.
2- my coil wires are too thin. it is made from 0.20mm and 0.25mm wires. i dont know the exact no of the wires. but the 0.65 mm was 16 . and i think 23 is nearly 0.20 mm.

I can turn my wheel which is made of 7 cds glued together by a magnetic switch and a coil made from one wire 1.15 mm.
10 v is enough to turn my wheel with 4 magnets.
it is a simple motor. the swith is changing the poles. and it is turning.
i made this prototype to find where i do wrong with SG wheel.
it is not working with 2 wired coil..
may be the transistor is wrong. but i tried 3 different 3055 TO-3
the result is same.
how can i check if my coil is alive?
how can i check also transistor is alive?

if i am not wrong when i read your posts i understand that the transistor is doing what my magnetic switch do?
the current coming from thin wire reaches to transistor BASE and it opens emitor and collector legs like a switch.
by this way the top of the coil gets north pole and it pushes the magnet.
after the magnet leaves the coil the transistor cuts the current until a magnet comes infront of coil.and it goes on like this.
i hope i dont bother you with this long message..
it took my 5 minutes to turn the wheel with mono winded coil and with a magnetic switch but ...
2 days passed and i couldnt succed to turn this damn wheel with transistor and bi polar coils..
i hope you will help me other wise i will throw this from the window:P
have a nice day

excaliburm_26,
there are number of things that you could be doing wrong. At first go to
Bedini_Monopole3 : Bedini_Monopole3
and see if your setup is wired exactly like in the picture in the link above.
I think, that you could use a magnetic switch instead of the other winding, because the main thing here is to capture the BEMF spike that appears when the transistor is switched off. And that happens either way. The problem with magnetic switch may be that the switch can not operate at high frequency thus limiting the maximum speed of the motor. Also you need to tune the system by placing the switch at a correct place and distance from the magnets. With a bifillar coil, you do not need to do that, the bifilar coil makes the circuit selftrigger at the exact right moment. Check your wire ends of your bifillar coil!
Hope this helps.