I hope this doesn't seem to dumb a question. What if you used something like a 555 timer chip on the bedini circuit to pulse the coil and then collect the radiant energy as you do now, Couldn't you loose the wheel all together then? I am still learning about these things so I hope that question doesn't offend anyone.

Thanks,

George Mielcarek

Hi George,

That is an excellent deduction! Check the threads for "solid state" Bedini circuits or "oscillators." You actually don't need a 555 circuit for it as they can find their own frequency.

Thank you so much for pointing me in that direction. Now I can use all the wheels and bearings I was going to use for a Bedini wheel and use it to tinker on my attraction motor.

George

Thanks for the transistor, it works great, and seems to have a faster switching time, I couldn't find MJ21194 in the market, but MJ15022 was found at about 2.5$ I bought six of them and unfortunately due to a mistake I semi-burnt three of them I suppose . Now I see that the neon is unable to protect these transistors even though these are able to operate around 200 volts, but when using a 24 volt system you have no hope but burn them all. So I certainly recommend the Zener protection for everyone, unless you want to spend $ for transistors!! I have decided to switch all of them to MJ15022 as they work wonderfully.

glad to hear it Elias! Another thing you can do to protect your circuit it wire the neon in with a 3k or 4k resistor on one of its legs too. This will help absorb some of the voltage and reduce the stress the neon handles. The neon can only absorb so much.

I saw a 250volt flash tube the other day, designed for strobe lights, right next to the neon container at the store. I wonder how one of them would go? Dance party!

this is interesting... and nice!

I recently rewired my circuit and amp draw has practically halfed!

my original circuit I designed to keep it as compact as possible including keeping all the transistors as close as possible (which I thought would improve performance)

as shown:



You see the little huddle in the bottom left corner?

well the amp draw on that was always between 800 - 950 ma (the very lowest it would run at top speed was 750 ma if I fiddled with the pot after it reached top speed)

but seeing as how nearly all other models have their transistors closer to their coils I thought I'd do something different:



the two wires around the circumferance are the primary negative and the secondary positive

and the triangle in the centre is the trigger

both the wires ends around the perimeter are connected so that they are basically a hoop.

anyway... not sure why but the amp draw is now a steady 460 ma... that is a solid sweet spot and no fiddling with the pot can improve that... it is spinning at its highest speed and drawing the lowest amps. adjusting the pot either way increases amps and lowers rpm.

can't explain why this geometry has such an effect...



and a brief update on my batteries...

the gel cell appears to be in mint condition after a single super charge.

the two lead acids are a different story...

tired super charging them once (same as the gel cell) but they didn't hold the charge very well under load...

so seriously super charged those two again. Basically left them boiling for about two days after they reached maximum voltage. but after leaving them for a little while thier resting voltages were 12.93 and 12.98 so still not in good condition.

so supercharged them for another 8 hours and their resting voltages went up to 13.27 and 13.38! this was pretty astonishing since they hadn't increased in voltage after the previous 2 days of charging... so it looks like a rest period (or perhaps a discharge period) is needed when conditioning old batteries....

just started cycling them on the motor to see how well they perform this time...

Nicely done Sep! It is interesting to note the positive effects of a well balanced circuit! Perhaps your circular pattern is similar to Jb's conductor bus bars for a reason related to geometry as much as impedance and flow benefits. The batteries sound like they will respond well to cycling.

Short vid I made today.

YouTube - JB's monopole sg

I didn't know that was you! Saw your dual and tri coilers... very impressive builds on all your motors!

but why do you call this one JB's monopole? Is it a replication of one of his particular models as opposed to just a replication of the circuit?

I just name it for what it is.It is John Bedinis design give or take the shortcomings of my own replication. I didnt mean it was HIS like I went and pinched it from the shop I guess if I wanted to be more technical I would have refered to it as his trifilar slave configuration, although in the video it is firing on one winding only.

lol didnt think you pinched one!

Just wondering why you have gone back to a single coil set up when you have made more advanced models already... that window motor is a beauty!

This is a demonstration model that I built. I am glad I didnt dismantle it for a future project. It is actually designed to be a cap pulser, the third winding I was going to send to bridge. I am still accumulating the parts for the circuit so I just play with what I got. I still learned something new today, and I was amazed at the efficiency of it on 24 volts. I have three or four models in the works, and its never just working on one

By the way that window motor is really easy to build. Even easier than the sg in some respects. You can use neos too. After fiddling around with it I can get it to run off 360ma. I can also bump it into solid state @500ma draw. I found that when a battery gets to the 13.20 mark if it is left turning it slowly increases up and up as can be expected. But if I bump it into solid state it shoots to over 15v in about a minute! I think I'd like to replicate a solidstate setup next after those results.

Well i did some calculations and my sg is giving back about 81 percent of the energy but i need to upgrade a few things and tune it correctly because its all done by eye as they would say btu 81 % is not bad i wonder if the sg give that back if it were under load ?

It's been awhile since I played with my SSG so recently I got more spools of wire and decided to test a different coil setup. Instead of bifilar winding I did a simple pancake with one trigger and one power.

But that's not the reason for this post, I would like to know about your SSG setups and the NE-2 lamp in them...

Do both electrodes of your lamp light up or just the negative electrode (emitter side) when no load (charging battery) is present?

I could've sworn that in my very first setup the NE-2 lit fully (both electrodes) and now with my recent coil, as well as the pancake one, only the negative electrode lights up (or have I lost my mind and both electrodes never lit up)!?

Thanks.

Only one lights up for me.

I put a cap in the circuit in place of the battery to see what the voltage would go up to. It went to about 120v but I pulled the switch because I wasn't sure if the neon would blow. It got pretty bright.

What would be the best way to let the voltage go to max without destroying the neon or the transistor?

Solace

Yes, I know I know don't use neos, ( but I am a kid that must try everything

I put the 140LB force neos in my SSG and I found a few things.

1. Hard to keep the welding rods from jumping to the magnets ( as you might of guessed ) I did master this but something to contend with.

2. Charging batteries shot up faster. Which is great.

3. Coil got VERY Warm I still could handle it with my hands but was getting to the point that I did not want to hold it very long.


I also have been working on putting a windmill generator inline with this. as can be seen from my youtube videos. I have been learning alot about 3 phase generators..

Having fun...

mart

Mart, my first SSG was made with neos and worked just fine. I also had problems with the coil, which wanted to jump to the neos and made a hell of a noise. I noticed, that with neos I had la lot more spikes/pulses per magnet on the scope, usually about 8-10. Then my ceramics came and I switched to them
Thanks,
Jetijs

been trying out a few different magnet configurations on the ssg and have come across one that is a bit weird....



basically I have 6 triple stacks pointing in one direction and 6 single stacks pointing in the opposite direction.

I tried this set up after I tried just the 6 triple stacks with the north poles going clockwise. The theory being that the north would push harder against the pulse to make the rotor spin faster and would only induce a very brief pulse in the trigger coil.

That worked pretty well so I tried this modification to concentrate the north pole. Turns out it works really really well. It is spinning faster then ever (anti clockwise). It works clockwise as well but doesn't go quite as fast.

Now in my head this is what the field should be like:



EDIT:

think I might of made an error some where.... will report back in a minute!

yep... made an error... the magnets are actually facing in the opposite direction... I have revised the images...

but that's slightly suprising since as I said before it goes much faster anti clockwise then it does clockwise. I would have thought in this configuration it would go faster clockwise because of the stronger north side...

But what appears to be happening the coil's pulse is attracting the strong south side more then it repels the north... get what I mean?

Just been testing the amps and it runs at a steady .55 amps going clockwise. Doesn't accelerate very fast and doesn't reach a very high top speed.

Going anti clockwise it accelerates much faster, reaches a higher top speed and draws .55 amps as well...

Yay Sep! I have been waiting to see someone fiddle with magnet positioning. You should try a pure scalar setup, that is place all your magnets so that the north field is squirting out between two faces. Kinda like your single ones are doing against the first of the tripple stack. There is some info on scalar setups around here somewhere but I dont remember anyone testing them?

By the way I meant to mention that when you build a multicoil machine that has slave coils I found that if one wants best performance then one should try to get a perfect alignment of magnet to core. Since yours are all firing at the same time it is possible to have a core firing a fraction too late due to minor misalignment and thus hindering performance. Yours looks pretty good by eye, just thought Id mention it as I think your coils are just strapped in?

I always used to think that the coil fired dead center to a magnet, it wasnt until I did a bit of research and figured out that adjusting the pot effectively adjusts the timing of the pulse after the magnet has passed.

your right ren coils are loosly strapped in and the magnet arent as perfectly symetrical as I would like! still playing around with the design but will make a "perfect" one when I know how i want everything to be

the scalar set up you described sounds like a superpole... John is using that on his big motor and have seen some discussion of it on this forum. But what I found curious about johns big energiser was that, although it could run in both directions, he prefered it going in one particular direction... It makes me wonder if his magnets or coils are at an angle. There is definatly some assymetry going on...

I've tried the superpole as well and found that you need to use more magnets for it to be effective... ie. if you normally use a double stack you may need to make a quadruple stack superpole. Other then that it works well.

Another curious thing was when I put the magnets on their sides (so that the north of one magnet faces the south of the next) it worked pretty much just as well as a standard monopole set up...

still playing around but this "assymetrical superpole" seems pretty good. I would be curious to hear anybody elses experiences of magnet positioning...