WELL I was testing the circuit to see if there was high voltage going to the output by unhooking the charge batt now i have now re done the circuit on a bread board and it works fine i think there must have been a problem in the original one i wired up XD

this might be stupid but I was thinking of a way to get the motor to self run and came up with the attached schematic ...

anybody tried something like this? Havent tested it yet but might give it a go.

damn... i just spotted a major flaw! back to the drawing board!

second try

selfrunner2.jpg

[quote=Sephiroth;13947]second try

Hi,

I have been reading that John B. suggests that it is not a good idea to switch the charging battery and the primary battery directly, but to either use a capacitor or an inverter because of how the radiant energy works in the circuit. ( I must say this puzzels me as I have seen people swapping the batteries in the circuit all the time )


I also was thinking of making this circuit run continually and automatically. I am beggining to think the best way is to use capacitors to invert the radiant energy back to the batteries. I believe there would be less loss using this method as opposed to having an inverter. This would be doing it the "accepted way"

My idea is to have the circuit running on a timer at X number of hours it would switch batteries. I wish to build like 4 of these to run continually, the gain for me would be either excess charged batteries, or to put the wheel on a wind mill generator to have a continually supply of energy. I know the ssg does not supply much torque, but I was thinking if I had say 4 of these, I should be able to spin the windmill generator continually ( this is my theory )

you might as welll give it a try because even if you fail you will learn and if you succeed you will learn so no matter the out come its a positive situation


anyways heres my latest i got no multimeter( hopefully will arrive tomorrow) so i cant test it yet its 4 power one trigger 200' coil

OK iv been trying to figure this out, what is trifillar? Obviously sounds like three wires, a trigger, a power and what else? and are litz and trifillar the same? also does twisting the trigger and power wire together before winding make any difference?

the third could be a second power or a recovery depends on the energy recovery design and twisting the wires help reduce capacitance in the coil

Trifilar is 3 wires. They can be "litzed" or twisted or not.

All 3 wrapped at same time.

I have a few "trifilars" that are equal lengths but the power/trigger are wound one way and the 3rd recovery winding is wrapped in the opposite direction.

why is the recovery wrapped in the opposite direction?

7 years ago, I thought that is how it was supposed to be. To this day, I don't think there have been side by side tests.

Anyway, I'd recommend not doing it reversed but just wrap all 3 together.

On an old "dual battery charger" schematic, there is a dot in the coils indicating North and the recovery had the dot at the bottom...I thought that meant to reverse the winding but it means out of phase 180 degrees.

that's very interesting... did you read a post i made earlier about what i thought makes the transistor turn off to allow multiple pulses per magnet? I could be wrong (not being an electronics boffin) but as i understand if you have a standard bifilar coil with both wires wrapped the same direction and then pulsed a current through one of the coils a current would be induced in the opposite direction in the other wire. Is that right or have I misunderstood?

it could be that instead of the recovery coil being wrapped in the opposite direction, the diagram implied that the current flowed in the opposite direction?

The dot at the bottom of the recovery winding indicates that it is for taking the spike when the field collapses in reverse polarity and the North is at the bottom.

Even if you have a 1 wire coil and apply power...during the applied power, you get counter efm coming in the opposite direction because of Lenz's law. After the coil is turned off, the loop is open and all the work that went into the pulse comes back converted back to voltage potential. The collapse spike is not the counter efm but happens afterwards.

thanks for responding!

so does that mean I've got the right idea?

if not how does the transistor turn on and off multiple times per passing magnet?

c rate= ah/20

is this watts ??

No, that are amps. If your battery is rated 20Ah, then the recommended charge/discharge rate would be at 1A or 12watts (if you are using a 12v battery).

watts is amps x volts.

a 12V 7.2ah battery can (technically) create an elecrtrical current of 1 amp at 12V for 7.2 hours though it isnt very good for the batteries to be discharged this fast.

that is why the c20 rate is recomended. c20 is the amp hours divided by 20 so for example if you are using a 7.2 ah battery the optimal discharge rate would be 7.2/20 = 360ma (which is 4.32 watts).

haha... sorry jetijs! you are just too fast for me!

sorry for the double answer!

ok thanks guyz its hard to find details about things like that on google

OK so twisting the wires does make a difference, the less capacitance the better right guess its back to twisting and wrapping my coil again. I wonder if I used two trigger wires would I get more power or maybe two power wires would induce more current in the trigger

i'm using 2 triggers and 4 transistors at the moment. Adding the second trigger lets me use much much much weaker magnets but i am getting the same speed from the rotor (possibly faster, hard to tell)

it is much easier to start. Using magnets half the size i was using with 1 trigger (they were double stacked but now using just 1 layer) and have increased the gap between stator and rotor to 4 mm (was 1mm) and the sweet spot resistance is higher than i've got the resistors for at the moment! With one trigger the sweet spot was about 600ohms but now i have stuck every resistor i have on the trigger and it is now 2.4kilo ohms but i think the sweet spot is still higher than that.

Since increasing the gap the motor still spins at a several thousand rpm (no tach so just an estimate) and there is NO vibration from the mounting and the motor runs cold and silent.

I think it depends on your machine whether you need 2 triggers or not... i had to add a second one because 1 trigger coil wouldnt power that many transistors on my motor. Tried triple stacking the magnets but the motor didnt run as fast and was very jerky.

EDIT: forgot to mention the trigger coils are connected in series.