I have found that too, although the adjustment is only a small one. With mine I have found that if I tune it for the power adapter as the input, when it does run off of batteries as the input the spikes are the same voltage anyway, so I can live with that.

My new device will not be run using mains power (well not all the time) so I will have a switch that allows me to select the input voltage and type. ie mains / battery, or 12V / 24V . This will allow me to use it for other things and not just the pool.

Cheers,

Steve.

I'm a bit lost on this.
I have a bifilar coil and and a power coil on my SG
Coils..
Bifilar Trigger = 21 ohm
Bifilar power = 9 ohm
Power2 = 8 ohm

When reading up about multi coils it says I need to match the impedance of the coils so would this mean I need an 12 ohm plus 13 ohm resistor values to match the coils ?
These 2 coils run on seperate transistors but use the same trigger signal

Thanks

I am trying to turn a pulley on a car alternator with a bedini circuit.
The thing is that it cannot turn cause it's a bit hard to turn.I am trying to increase weight on rotor for torque.Maybe it will turn when I balance weight to push magnets.
Another thing the pot is burning out don't know why?
I think it's better to work this way to charge a bank.
Any help please about the pot?
Thanks

I use higher wattage pots in my circuits. 5 Watts is the strongest I have at the moment. I find that I need them when building and tuning multi-coil circuits. The 0.5 watt pots are pretty much useless when you start to add more coils.

The other thing is that the bedini circuit is not designed for torque. Unless (in my opinion) some serious mods are made to the design you will not run a car alternator with it. They are hard enough to turn with your hand (when pluged in) let alone with an SG.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi,

How many winds are in your coil, 21ohms on the trigger is a lot. The impedance matching is in regards to the coil vs the battery. To be honest I don't much about that, but I simply aim for the lowest impedance I can in my windings. ie, my multimeter beeps when I test each strand.

Cheers,

Steve

I've fried a few pots in my experimentations so, for the 4 coils 8 transistors SSG energizer I'm building, I think I'll replace the pot with rotary switches with fixed 2 or 5 watts resistors that can be added in series by turning the switches. Didn't figured out yet how to do that but it must be quite simple. Just an idea.



Michel

Hi Michel,

When building my device, I only used the pot for tuning and then replaced it with fixed resistors. The rotary switch is a good idea for having multiple tuning options.

Cheers,

Steve.

Hi Dambit and Druide thanks for response.My car alternator is a rewinded one.I had rewind this alternator for a wind turbine in the past so it does not need alot of spinning speed.
About the pot yes it seems that I should use a higher wattage one.
How can one recognize the pot wattage?
Thanks guys.

Hi,

Most of the time the wattage of the pot will be written on it, but some times they aren't. In that case I just go for the one that is the biggest (physical size not ohms), usualy bigger is hartier. (but not always )

Cheers,

Steve

Not sure how many turns, I lost count but over 600. The trigger is 0.4mm and the power is 0.6mm. I wound both at the same time. I'm going to unwind this coil and measure how long the strands are and will probably cut the trigger strand in half. I have now learned that thicker wire = lower ohms

My coils are quite heavy so haven't bothered to tie them down. I've noticed that i can turn the coils at an angle to the stator and I get more rpm's. I don't have a scope so can't really tell if the SG is putting out more power or less. So far I've managed to rejuvenate a 12v drill battery that would not hold a charge even when put on its own charger for a full day. Now it goes for hours and with plenty of torque

I am using a 25 watt 1k pot from Mouser Electronics...

The part number is RHS1K0E take a look at Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor....

If the wattage is not in the description it is in the data sheet....

Just a thought....

Todd

Hi All,

Does anyone have any advice on which material would be best for a buss bar. I am planning on using electrical brass flat bar, but if anyone has something to add I would be gratefull.

Cheers,

Steve

Erin's work shop often used these in his SSG.

Erwin's Work Shop

might look there

Also, has anyone noticed, or do they know why, the positive terminal on the charging battery turns almost black after a while. I have just started to see this in a couple of my larger batteries. I am also getting a powdery buildup on the negative post. Grey in colour.

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S. Thanks mart, that is a good site with lots of info.

Hi All,

I have a 24V AC wall adapter and would like to know if it is possable to convert the signal to DC. I have tested with a bridge rectifier (4 diodes etc) but the charger acts like there is no return from the charging battery. Is there a way around this? Without buying a 24V DC power pack.

Cheers,

Steve.

Hi Steve,

what do you mean by "the charger acts like there is no return from the charging battery" ?

Have you tried filtering the DC output with a capacitor ?



Michel

From SSG_STARTERS_GUIDE-Two.pdf page 17,
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...F75khcvrLJRCoA
thanks theremart

"One of the most recent improvements has been substituting the charging battery output wiring with copper tube, flattened on the ends and suitably drilled to facilitate connections to the battery terminals. The copper tubing is not easy to work with, but does work. The flattened and drilled tubing is good for various short connection busses between larger batteries as well."

Michel

Just an idea, you can use soft copper tube (the moonshiners most used material for still condenser coil), it's much easier to bend.

Michel

That's what I was thinking, copper is much easier to work with that brass. The only reason I am considering brass is because it holds up better in a salt water environment that copper. This charger will end up on my boat.

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S. I have attached some preliminary data on my conditioning process if any are interested. It's still early but it looks good. Turns out the c20 rate of discharge is the most efficient.
The data shows the that the extra energy is definitly in the battery, not the device.

Attached Images

Loadtesting.pdf (22.2 KB, 18 views)