Thanks,

I have been connecting the scope up in that way, (probe on Collector and other cable on the emmiter) but to see the spikes I have to dissconnect the output. In the vid John seems to see the spikes with the output connected.

Also, it turns out I only blew the neons the other day. I think I will replace the transistors anyway, just in case there is something not quite right with them.

Cheers,

Steve.

yeah dambit same here , for me to see the spikes I have to disconnect the output , I do this for a couple of seconds just to see how high they are .

Another way I used to do this was to see how High I could charge a cap
ie 400v cap , gives you an idea how high the spike are in voltage .

Iv been busy for while doing my electrical course , nearly finished another 2-3 months , after that I will be making another bedini machine finly tuned I hope with marts swapper .

I just received the swapper board from spark fun , But wont e starting it until iv finished my course .


Sam

I've had a bit of luck with the relays I need for my battery swapper. A friend of mine is the chief electrical guy on the desalination plant thats being built here. He just told me he will do a "midnight mechanics" run at work and get some for me.

For me to buy them it will cost AUD$120 each. and I need three of them.

Cheers,

Steve

P.S. I just hooked up a 400V .047uf cap to the output and I was getting an average of 200V. So this leads me to the conclusion that my transistors are still working fine and I only blew my neons. Also, is there a difference between normal components and "mil-spec" ones. I only ask becasue I found the capacitor in my fathers old electronics bag from when he was a radio tech in the RAAF. It must be at least 30 years old.

Hi all,

What are peoples experiences conditioning batteries. Do batteries with higher Amp hour ratings require more power coils than smaller rated batteries, or is it just a matter if giving them more time?

I think I know the answer, but I would like to hear other peoples thoughts.

Cheers,

Steve.

Hi Dambit.

I am running an experiment just to that means.

I have a set of two golf cart batteries that at 1.5 amps I can charge up (11.4V to 13.55V) with 4 coils in 4 days, however at 1 amp it has taken me six days to charge them to 13.55V. Sooo.. smaller charges can get the job done and with my killowatt meter it looks like it takes the same amount of energy ( in Killowatts hours ) but longer....

More coils allow you to put more energy to the target, however multi coils are complicated beasts, and the timing has to be just so to get good results. Marcia from the forum puts all of her windings on just one coil to insure that she always gets the timing right.

Rick gave me the advice that I need several coils to charge my 5 golf cart batteries, so yes, I think you know the answer to your questions already, and I can confirm that to be true from my experience.

Mart

Thanks Mart,

I figured that with less coils it would still charge the batteries, only the amount of time required would be greater. Are the four coils you mention n-filar or four power windings on one physical coil?

With regards to the timing of the coils, wouldn't having a single trigger for all the coils solve any timing issues? Also I was thinking that since the voltage/amps required to rigger the transistors is a fixed value, I might try out an independant trigger with no power winding. I guess similar to what JB does with his tiny little trigger magnets. I'm sure that I don't need a 1000 turn trigger coil to effect the switch. Something smaller should suffice.

Cheers,

Steve.

I have 6 transistors to the 4 coils.. Timing is more than having a single trigger ( which I do ) it is getting the coils in exact posistion so that when they fire they are in the exact right place, this also means you magnets need to be in the exact right place as well.

c

I have decided that if I want to see better/faster results when charging car batteries or larger, I will need more coils. I can easily add a third coil to my current device so I will do that and compare the results.

I will also put a six magnet stator on there as the four I have now are spaced a little too far apart for my liking.

Cheers

Dambit...
Yeah, I got a washer machine's solenoid, this solenoid washer machine use it for control tank water fill, I take the solenoid and disabled to get the coil only, coil is great quality and sealed, I tested the coil with a LED, and put near of magnets motor and LED turn on using air core, with iron core work better but generate drag... Maybe this coil type can be used for a trigger of the shelf. I'll try it later but think bifilar coils are good because help to save space around rotor. In the pics my little Bedini updated today, using 3 neo 35, 25mmx2mm, rotor 8 cm on Ball bearings.

Attached Images

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	coil2.jpg (37.3 KB, 8 views)
	coilled.jpg (23.7 KB, 10 views)

Thats a good little soledoid. Should be great for experimenting with a separate trigger.

I'm still not sure what's wrong with my setup. I have adjusted all the gaps and tried different resistances and I still can't seem to get spikes larger than about 60V on the scope. Now the only thing that is different from my test setup are the coils themselves. They both have the same number of turns (1000), but they are not as "compact" as my other coils. i.e spool length. I'm not sure if this would effect anything, but that's the only thing I can come up with.

Oh well, I hope everyone elses projects are going ok.

Cheers,

Steve.

Hi All,

here is my current SSG...

Detail Spec :

Rotor:
4 Wood Rotor in one shaft
Diameter 5.5"
wide 1" space between rotor = 4 "
Shaft size = 2"

Magnet =
2" x 1" x 3/8" (4 pcs / rotor) total = 16 pcs
All magnet position 22.5 degree different
#1, #3, #4, #2 and so on...just copy from 4 cyl engine system.

Coil :
All trifillar coil (2 x 0.75mm as power coil and 1 x 0.5mm as trigger coil) Approx 900 turn same length

Component :
* All have separate trigger circuits using 2N3055 Transistor, 1N4001, 1N4007 diode, 1Kohm Potensiometer, 100 Ohm resistor and Neon Bulb NE-2.

So far is working and better than my previous setup. but I not quite happy with the tuning. It draw 1450mA (1.45 Ampere). Speed Approx more than 1000 RPM (I have no Tachometer yet).

The problem is hard to find best tuning due all wheel has separate circuits (separate triggering circuits). When I done tuning with one circuits will burn other transistor form other circuits. This happen many times.

When I found best tuning for all circuit there is so easy for transistor broken. Almost everyday minimum 1 transistor. I don't know this because of the quality of the transistor or other else.

I have plan to build another ssg, because I'm still not happy with the previous result. I have another wood rotor with bigger diameter (7 Inch x 4 wheel) but with smaller shaft diameter (40 mm).
I need your advice about the best circuits for my next setup...
Possibly the magnet position or do I need to put earth ground on it?

But still try to fixing the problem in current one.

Anything that you think I need to do please let me know..

Regards,

Selamatg

Attached Images

8191CRIM0059.jpg (110.9 KB, 32 views)

Hi All,

Has anyone every wondered what JB's propper monopole cicuits look like? If the SG is the basic version of the tech, the not so basic ones must be pretty schmik.

Hi Steve,

I have same question as you ....interest to know.......
btw your video13 is cool...good work mate...

I interest to know about JB's big setup COP too..

Selamatg

Selamatg

Nice setup, truly I'm beginner, but I'm thinking, this:

You have a rotor with 4 coils, all coils is bottom of the rotor, then, you have two options, first is try if you can activate all coils at time; is some problematic because for me at least, is too hard synchronice all coils, if one activate first than other next can be help to stop rotor by drags for magnets atraction by no coils activated with his cores.

Second options is like you, is better for my at least. You can try to tuning each coil independently. Each one and others disconnected. Then if when use all coils transistors is get burn, maybe you need look the diode Base-Emitter and Colector - Charging Batts, maybe your motor is generating so much Back-EMF HV, then you can try with more Diode's in series to avoid that Back-Emf is going to Base and get burned it. I was thinking to use a HV meter to see if some times is possibly that Back EMF get up to 1000 Volts.

Two optios are possible using your setup with all coils bottom.

I don't know how works your setup.

Patmac,


Currently my setup as the second option. The only problem with this the transistor so easy burn (2N3055) specially when first tuning.

Selamatg

Ooops, you can calculate the load for the transistor, depending of AWG power coil, and turns, is possible calculate wire lenght and with the wire lenght calculate ohm of the load, applying ohm law, you can get how much amps is loading transistor. If impendance is very low, transistor get burn by excesive amp drawing...

Other problem can be max volts to base - emitter, is possible that your trigger coil is working very very fine and can send a voltage higher than base - emitter 2n3055 can handle. But don't forget that Diode connected in (D1) Base - Emitter, is like a zener diode of 0.6 volts aprox. You can try limit current Colector with a Resistor between Coil and Colector. If you Back EMF is giving to you Back EMF very high voltage, you can reforce D2 with more diodes in series, remember that common diodes only control 1000 volts max, in series is 1000+1000 etc..

Attached Images

UPDATED_CIRCUIT.jpg (132.6 KB, 39 views)

Dear All
Im very interested in Bedini SSG and want to buy it, im need 1KW to 2KW output
Please contact me: lvtrung@vnn.vn

Sorry dude, you can ask John to build you one, but you will probably have to build one that big yourself. All of our devices are for research and personal use. Plenty of info on the forum that can get you started though.

Cheers.