Hi all.

I am a first time builder of the SSG Bedini Motor. I have read much of this post, and have viewed a 2 hour video with Bedini and Berton ( a documentary). I have build the mechanical mechanism of the machine, and now am moving into the electrical aspects of it.

I have a quick question about Wire gauge for the coil.

I have seen gauge 23 and 26 used in bifilar configuration used and also
I have seen gauge 20 and 23 used in bifilar configuration used for these motors.

I understand from a previous post that depending on the battery capacity used, it might be prudent to go with a thicker wire for larger batteries and also that it is important to keep with the C20 or higher energizing side of the circuit (within the video John stated this over and over again).

What should I do for my first coil? 20 and 23 gauge or 23 and 26 gauge? My batteries will be smaller type 12V and about 1.3 Ahr (I can use larger ones if someone suggests that to me). I just thought that charging and discharging a smaller capacity battery would speed up the scientific investigation.

Best regards,

Hi,

From what you have told me, you should try going on the yahoo groups and building an SSG as per specs. It sounds like you want to see if this tech is real.

I would recommend looking at this build as it has LOTS of details and is very clean for getting in the yahoo groups.

AionAlchemy™ - radiant

Jason here demonstrates some tests with COP >1. but the question in my mind is, is this real overunity, or just a glitch in the measuring device.


I think you with find that the SSG is not an over unity device. However, if you continue to dig the real over unity is said to be found in the batteries. The chemical make up of the batteries changes with the charging process, and over time the batteries have been shown to give over 1/3 more energy out as compared to a conventionally charged battery.

Some pointers..... for starting out and testing the bedini method.


1. Use new batteries best to take a volt meter with you to the store and measure voltages on them.. Old ones that are sulfated with give you MUCH more problems.

2. You might consider getting "Interstate" batteries, maybe some small ones, John Bedini Prefers these over the standard exide batteries.

3. Read read read read. TONS of info out there, best to get the data from the source, John has built good working circuits, and for the first time build best to use the exact components he gives when possible. This group has alot of first hand knowledge from people that have worked directly with John.

4. Look at the method that Sterling took to test out the Bedini method.

Directory:Bedini SG - PESWiki

There is tremendous data there, John spoke in very simple terms with his advice to Sterling on how to setup his device, and the limitations of the SSG.

John Bedini and Peter Lindemann's Medium and Large Motor-Energizer Project


This link here has shown me many many answers to my questions about the setup. I believe Sterling did a great job of getting the info out about the SSG, and showed his test data.


One thing I do want to say to you is Batteries in different sizes are TOTALLY different. You need to learn what each battery's limits are...


These links should give you a good place to start.

God Bless,

Mart

I think Rick F's circuit with an alternating (input) battery bank could go COP+1 We are going to try it with a multi coil ASAP.

There is reports of the SSG being overunity from Marcia Stockton ( one of the admins from the Yahoo Bedini group )

Here is some of there talk about the fans, and the SSG.

http://www.cheniere.org/correspondence/091807.htm

I think I would like to see a demonstration of this being overunity from an outside source, like they talk about in this email correspondance.

I surely thought Sterling would of proved that, as he did put ALOT of effort into doing it.

I, myself am going to condition my batteries 16 times ( golf cart batteries ) and see if they improve with the computer monitored voltages.

All is being recorded.

Thanks for all the info.

Has anyone here ever tried to get the COP over Unity? Has anyone achieved this?

From what I have seen on the net, this technology seems to indicate that one battery can charge 3 batteries of the same capacity. I would be happy to charge two batteries with one battery.

Just wondering if anyone has any indication of success in getting the COP over 1.

Best regards

The last post I gave you shows COP >1. but very marginal...

On Bedini's site he claims to of taken 4 batteries, 1 at 12 V 3 at 10V and then charged the 3 10V, 2X after discharging and charging them back up to over 12V.

If anyone else has done this, I would like to know about it myself

Mart

Elias Yesterday. I finished my first Bedini Sg, using neos 35, works from small gap about 1/4" to far 1.5"aprox, i have no tachometer, but goes very fast, rotor is 5 cd's neos attached with hot glue, and black tape around.

My coil is poor, becaues only I had 27 awg wire, but not another, so I got 24 awg from a solenoid of a old car. So my coil is 27 trigger 24 power, 300 turns, arond 1/2" water pipe, core is welding rods 3/32".

Neos are 25mm x 3 mm. I will upload pics later...

Hi All,

I have just finished setting up my first multi coil. The schematic I used was the multi coil one that came from JB. My master coil is tri filar, 1 trigger and 2 power wraps. 1000 turns each. My slave coil is bifilar, just the power wraps.

My question/problem is this...

I have tuned the the machine to the best of my ability and I am only reading spikes of at most 45volts. My basic SSG was getting 200 volt spikes. I have followed the schematic exactly except instead of a 22 ohm resistor I am using a 200 Ohm. The 470 Ohm base resistor is the same. i think it is my coils, but I am not sure. It does still charge quite well, but I was not expecting such low spikes.

Any advice or help would be great.

Cheers,

Steve.

Attached Images

IMG_0173.JPG (684.3 KB, 42 views)

Dambit, that setup looks really really amazing. I wish I could suggest something, I have just finished purchasing all the wire and electronic components (except for the Neon Bulb), for my SSG motor.

I read that the Neon bulb had to be 40 V type, can anyone confirm this? Normally i would just put a diode across the transistor, but that is conventional thinking and I have to let that go.

Hi BinzerBob,

Thanks.

I could only get 90V neons, but they work fine. My trigger coil circuit has blue neons and the slave has green.

Like Mart said earlier, it's best to follow the schematic exactly, but if you can't get the same part go for the closest.

About the ground again... I was testing my motor investigating about the ground, if motor need earth ground or not, so I decide get a conclusion above all, I put my foots withou shoes and sock on the floor with the motor running and take 2n3055 transistor, I feel impulses on my finger, so that is Radiant Energy?... I have in my head put a target battery to earth ground and Diodes from transistor, to see if works fine.

Hi Dambit,

I would consider using a little less resistance on the bases perhaps to start with. Put a switch on every power winding and switch only one on. Does speed increase each time another power winding is switched on? Another thing to check is that your resistors actually ARE what they are labeled as. They can sometimes be out a little. (+/- 5% usually).

Thanks Ren,

I was begining to think it could be the base resistance. I am thinking I could switch off the slaves and attach a 1K pot to use as a variable base resistor. Then I can fine tune once a better base resistance if found. I'll just have to be carefull to not turn it all the way down.

Even though it is not tuned properly I am still seeing some good results, so it can only get better.

Cheers,

Steve.

Steve, keep resistors on your bases. Say 100-200 ohms. Join all resistors together on a common buss bar. Use a small light (optional) with your pot coming off the buss so you can adjust for best results. This way too you wont burn your pot out and hit no resistance accidently. Every coil is different, and thus resistance needs to be varied and one set resistance wont work for every replication.

Get your master working sweet and go from there.

Ok, I have changed all of the base resistors to 200ohm. I am using a 320 ohm resistor for the trigger. I will continue to test the bases but I have to get a new pot as my other blew. Not beefy enough.

It draws about 600mA when running, which isn't too bad.

The interesting thing is that even though the circuits are exactly the same, my slave coil circuits puts out 150 Volts spikes and my master coil and its slave put out 60 volt spikes.
The only thing I can think of is coil position. Because it has the trigger winding it may need to be a little further or closer away from the magnets.

Not sure yet.

Nope, not coil position. Just tested it moving the coil as it was running. Almost no change on the scope. Only the speed changed.

Even more puzzled now.

Dambit, how perfectly aligned is your rotor? Does every magnet match up against a pole piece equally? Coil positioning is of vital importance with a multi coil, and you should try to get everything as perfect as possible.

And how do you find the charging?

Hi Ren,

The coils are as dead-on to the magnets as I can get them. I will be swapping out the stator in a few weeks for a new one with six magnets configured to put out a scalar pole. The new stator will have the magnet grooves milled. The one I have on there now I had to cut myself, so there is room for improvement there.

The charging side of things is pretty good. Still doing some tests. Even though the spikes are not as high as expected, they are still around 60V from the master coil and the slave coil is 150V. RPM at the moment is about 4,200. This is based on the pulses measured on the scope.

I am begining to think that maybe one of the components on the master circuit board could be defective or malfunctioning. The reason I am thinking this is because the slave board is working fine. (well, good enough) I have spares so I will put together a new master board and plug that one in to compare the two.

I've had my head wrapped around this thing all day, so I think I'll kick back and have a few drinks tonight and hit it again tomorrow.


Steve.

Is really incredible, I'm charging a very old battery NiMH AAA 1.2 Volts, with the Bedini SG, battery it was six moth without receive charge, was used by 3 years on my USB MP3, when I put in a normal battery charger, get hot very hot and charge goes out rapidly, on Bedini SG received charge by 30 mins only, and battery it was room temp, I did measurements with volt meter gave me 1.22 volts, so I tested on mp3 and works, really works!!!!! Radiant Energy is very efficient....

I'm taking some pics...