Thanks theremart ....some good info to take in . When you say you wrap the trigger wire last are you still keeping the same ohms and lengths in the wire (seems harder to balance out to me )i might be missing something though...
http://www.energeticforum.com/images/smilies/thanks.gif

I found a drawing.
If I did not embed the picture in this post
here is the link

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...JB-Circuit.jpg

What I see in this drawing that I did not build into my SG is ...

Ground , C1 ,C2 ,C3 ,W3 , and a battery ( I am using a power supply )

Dodeca

Attached Images

JB-Circuit.jpg (196.3 KB, 59 views)

Others may step in here and fill in where I am missing, but the trigger wire is just that... It turns on the transistor. This is why you want it ideally to be of smaller gauge than the power coil. I know of others who use a very fine gauge ( see the Daftman videos on youtube )

Ideally you want the ohms of all the power coils the same.

What I have found helpful is to do what Erin does, is to go to a place outside that is flat and mark off a certain distance. Then make all of your power coils this length. I did not get this far, but I believe if I filled my coil all the way, then took this outside and unwrapped it, then simply double it back that would give me the length of coil that would fill the coil for a bifilar.

I hope this helps..

I am finding that to get old batteries to achieve high voltages that I have had to leave them on the SSG for days at a time.

The golf cart batteries that I have when I got them were at 12.20 V. I thought this was fully charged, until I did some searching and asking around, it seems that when on a charger the top voltage is 14.00 - 14.2.

I have taken a more aggressive approach with these batteries, I am now hitting them with 40V at .8 Amp. They have risen now after about 3 days to a charging 12.34-12.54, the highest voltage I have seen these at since I have had them. I am thinking that I have never really had these batteries to the full charge they are able to do, thus this is why I was unable to run my rotoverter off of them.

I believe that I will keep these batteries on my 7 transistor monopole energizer for a week or so at 40V. I am seeing a steady rise in voltage with these batteries about .05 a day.

My target is to get supercharged batteries. This is a battery that can take a charge quickly and then when loaded slowly go down in voltage. I have taken the long route to get there with sulfated batteries...

Mart

Hi Mart,

You might wanna try hitting those batteries with a higher amperage than 800 milliamps but be careful as the transistors will heat up so make sure you have heatsinks on them and I personally like a fan on them.I find that the batteries charge better if you hit them with higher amperage for a little while,Another words hit them for maybe 5 or 10 minutes at about 1.5 amps then let them return to 800 or even 500 milliamps for say 15 minutes and i think you'll notice the batteries tend to like this sort of charging.Hope that helps and I thought those batteries were 6 volt golf cart batteries?.

-Gary

-------------------------

I am running them in sets of 2 (6V), so charging 6 of them at a time at 40V on the primary side... The RPMS at 4150..... Zzooooom.... I have normally just set it to the highest RPM, since I want a more ON time, and sharper spikes.

I can't wait till I figure out how to use my scope....

I felt all of the transistors and they are cool to touch while it is running. Since I am running this 24/7 I don't want any other arrangement.


Under my present setup, I am using an OLD analog power supply, it can't give me more than .8 AMP. but will consider your method when I start using batteries as my primary.

Mart

Can anyone tell me what this scopeshot represents? I stumbled across it while looking for the *spike* on my monopole. I'm interested in any and all information.

Link; YouTube - H_wave anomaly

I haven't the experience to figure out what is going on here.

There is a description of how I got to the waveform with the video.

Thanks all.
Warren
..

Today I am starting a new test with the battery swapper. I have 8 golf cart batteries and 4 deep cell batteries all hooked up in banks of 24V. I was very happy that I was able to increase my normal charge on my golf cart batteries up to 6.8V this is a big improvement from before. The deep charging I have done for days is paying off.

I am pulling on my 4 coil 6 transistor energizer 1.5 AMPs, will try to run this on each bank for 11 hours.

Hi All, Amazing amount of info on this forum.

I have just built my first SSG two days ago.(pics attached) My coil has only 330 turns, but it seems to be working ok (wound the wrong way so its a south pole motor I guess). The rotor is from an old 5" floppy drive and the magnets are neo's . I have a vid of the setup here for those that are interested. YouTube - SSG Video 2

I have many q's but at the moment I would like to know if it is better to attain the fastest rpm, or the most rpm for the lowest draw off the primary batts.

Cheers,

P.S sorry about the massive photo.

You can convert the photo to a smaller one with "Faststone Image Viewer" it is free and works great! ( simple right click on photo choose batch convert ) then lower the scale of the jpg quality.

The goal can be what you want it to be But the best is to look for conditioned batteries. Batteries that charge up fast and give their charge slowly.

Here is what I do for a conditioning process.


I will leave the battery on the SSG for days till it reaches the top voltage. Then I will put a load with its c20 rating ( fancy term for 20% of its rating ) till I have went down to 12.5V for standard batteries, 5.5 for my golf cart batteries. Then I repeat, the process of charging them normally gets faster with time. Note this takes months to get up to a "supercharged" battery and you will loose if you use a conventional charge, or.... if you let the battery just sit.

Goal number 1 for me is to get a conditioned battery, then after that you can optimize the energizer. Until the battery is conditioned, it will jump all over the place in voltage and you will be scratching your head thinking.... what did I do wrong on my energizer. This can be normal, the batteries often drop in voltage, then rise then drop until they stabilize with the new method of charging.

Note on your neos to keep it about 1/2 inch away from the magnets, you will find that it will take less amps this way ( at least I did ).

Many methods out there for tunning the SSG, mine is to watch the target batteries voltage, the question is, what I change, does it make it rise faster?

I have found that leaving the batteries on the SSG for days has really helped my good batteries. The bad ones... well ehhh i don't spend the time on them anymore. Too many batteries out there for me to fight the ones that take months to bring back.

hello All,

Did anyone try using recondition battery (after many cycle with SSG) at car?
what the result...it is long live?
The condition not back (as before reconditioning with SSG) so quick?

regards,

Selamatg

Someone on here (can't remember the post now) reconditioned the battery for their truck, and the battery ran fine being charged by the alternator afterwards for at least a year. Then he sold the truck so we don't know how long it lasted after that

It will work, but you will loose the main benefits of the SSG charging. John Bedini states it takes longer to charge after been used with the SSG. But.. the real answer would be for us to make a Peter Linderman motor to replace our alternator. That would be the ticket..

How can we replace an alternator with an attraction motor

I thought the point of the linderman motor is that it doesn't induce voltage in the coils

Thank you for your info....


Mart,

Would be interest to study Peter Linderman Motor for my next project..
thank you

Well what I am trying to convey is that it would be better if the battery was charged with the SSG like charging. There are problems getting this to go as you might need two batteries one to be charged the other to be used.

I was not being practice, just idealistic... Would be good to have the battery always charged with cold electricity.. But this would have to be engineered...

gotcha

an easy way would be to use the alternator to charge a capacitor that runs a solid state oscillator ... I built one for my solar panel and it works in principle...

I have probably just not seen it, but does anyone have a schematic for adding more coils.

Cheers

there is one from jetijs further back in this thread though here is one I made earlier

multicoil.jpg

Just add the part in red for every slave coil you want to hook up.

hi all from long time, i don't know if people remember me when i was writing here last time about non symmetrical positioning coils.

motor was running non-stop 3monts (i haved little time, so i just let it run)
Was charging 1x 7Ah battery reconditioning, but that broke, NEVER LET MOTOR RUNNING WITHOUT watch. battery really broked up lol.

So now i'm back and today i was putted back to symmetrical coil positioning configuration also tried master/slave connections, that was susseful but not usable couse only 1 little radiant spike it gives. that is very lol. i don't know what that should be giving with 1 or more slave coils, i really dont't understand what is the advantage of multiple coils connected as slave, so i go back to all as master, that works i get multiple and lot of spikes in that way.
Now the motor runs lot slower than before (unsynchronized coil positioning) after fine tuning. this is now synced configuration.

I let it charge 5x7ah batteries connected as parallel. 1bank i have other bank also, but that is later, i first condition this. that is now chargind lot of time, let see about few days.

here is my old page Riku’s Blog » Riku’s Bedini motor
there is no new pictures at this time, you people see that was winter taken, that is from the motor running with no making modifications, like i sayed im now back in to the motor, and i really need some answers so waiting untill that is contitioned.

meanwhile i really need some answers what is the best coil configuration and advantages.


-riku

Hi all,

I bought an old model of second hand oscilloscope and hope tomorrow will arrive in purpose to study more about SSG best tunning for more efficient.

that will be my first time to see the oscilloscope directly.

I'm really interest to get best result of the COP >1 and reconditioning battery.

Any suggestion for better setting are welcome...

Best regards,

Selamatg

Thanks Sephiroth,
I'm building a two coil machine so I'm getting a quote to have the coils wound by machine as I get the impression they would need to be exactly the same to be efficient in a multi-coil setup.

When you say slave coil, do you mean a totaly separate coil or another wind on the same spool (trifilar for example)

Cheers,

Steve

either way the cicruit is as above... you can use the part in red for an extra winding on the master coil, or for seperate slave coils...

I am looking into having some coils machine made as well but the company I asked never got back to me with a quote could you let us know how much that will cost?

Cheers!

That clears things up, cheers. I'm colourblind so I didn't know which part was red, (I assumed it was the bit I hadn't seen before). makes for interesting wiring as I use all the same colour.

When winding a seperate slave coil would it be advantageous to wind it bifilar with both being power coils?, or is a trigger coil required. I'm not sure if the induction from the primary trigger coil would be enough to activate all of the transistors, but then again it just might.

I'm living in Australia at the moment so when I get a quote I'll let you know. Should be close to what they charge in the UK, but then again. I was living in asia and as such I am still getting used to the hyper-inflated prices western countires have. Crazy!

Hi Sephiroth,

Just got the quote back and it will cost me AUD$60 per coil to be wound by machine. These will be 4" long with a 3" flange and a 3/4" core. (filled to the brim)
I worked out that it will cost me only $10 less to do it myself. As I can't be bothered, I will get this guy to do it for me. At least now they will be as close to identical as possible.

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S. Is there a limit to the number of winds in a coil? Can they be too big?

Cheers for that!

Don't think there is a limit to the number of turns you can use, however if the coil gets very long with a thin guage wire then the resistance in the coil might get too high...

about 1000 turns of 22 guage wire should only have a couple of ohms resistance so this shouldn't be a problem

Then again, the Back EMF may increase if you increase the number of turns and that may effect the performance... I asked about this in another thread though didn't get a confirmed answer...

Maybe someone who knows a bit more about this can comment?

Hello all? The first coil I built was 2000 wraps bi-filar. I was so proud of myself, thinking that this would really be something great. It wasn't. A sixteen in plastic bicycle wheel with fifteen magnets would turn 144 rpm @69.4mA. The coil was wound with #26 and #28 magnet wire. Ohm reading was .033 for #26 and .056 for #28. Both wires measured nearly the same at 201.5mHy.

In comparison, a 1000 wrap tri-filar wound next yielded these results;
#26 = .014 ohm and 28.47mHy
#28 = .012 ohm and 27.58mHy.
The two #28 shorted so I used them as the power coil and the #26 as the trigger. (It seems I have difficulty wrapping magnet wires with shorting either at startup or after some runs. Wrapping the coils as tight as I did, the magnet passes cause the wires to vibrate, thereby rubbing the insulation off between them.) RPM increased to 194 @ 130mA.

The above was "proof of concept" to me and have since dismantled the first SG and am building a MUCH BETTER model. Building the SG is simple. Understanding the workings of each component is taking some doing. Right now, understanding the coil is a priority for me. For example, the specs for the coil is a 3 X 3 spool with a 3/4 inch core. (Yahoo! Monopole3 group) The above 2000 wrap was on a 2 X 2 spool with a 3/4 inch core. (This leads me to believe that magnet wire should not be used along with the above reasons.)

There is also a concept of *optimum spacing* relating coil size to magnet spacing. Investigating this concept, I actually had the trigger coil *ringing* with the next magnet. As the first magnet was leaving the trigger the next magnet was entering, setting up a parallel pulse with the trigger coil. I'll be investigating this phenomenon further.

Well. It seems I drifted afield here. Sorry about that. I hope I shed some light on the number of coil wraps and such though.

Warren
..

Hi all,

I am presently mapping out the circuitry for my first multi-coil (2) device and was wondering if anyone had any advise on how to choose the base resistor for a coil. Should I just use what is on the original schematic from JB's multi-coil setup, or is there another way?

Also, Should my master coil have a trigger coil and two power coils (trifilar) and the slave coil only have two power coils?(no trigger) I would think that if I didn't, the slave coil would create a more powerful field and cause imbalance.
Not Sure

Cheers,

Steve

Good work guys.
Remember you can make a low light SG solar motor using 4 volts to charge 12 volt batteries. The energize can run continuos for days without running down. When I'm done with my project I may post pictures and circuits on how to do this.
What needs to be done is specialized lighting using the sg circuits, you must remember that you have a high voltage oscillator in the SG, led's love this if hooked up correctly.
John

Wow! The man himself! While you are here John, thank you for showing us all that you have! Much appreciated!

and on the subject of lighting LEDs... isn't the "Joule Theif" based on your patent? The design is very similar and it can light LEDs with dead batteries... Plengo on YouTube did a series of vids called something like "lighting an LED forever" or something like that, and again does something similar...

Looking forward hearing more from you!