Ren? I'm running car batteries. The primary, right now, is 650CA. The secondary is a bit smaller though I can not find any specs on it because it was an old discard. It had 3.85V on it when I started charging it. It is now over 10V.

FYI; The core for my coil is 16d nails with the heads cut off. I'm wonering now whether a solid core wouldn't be a better choice instead of the R60 rods. Also, the core is an inch longer than the spool. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

I do wonder what the implications and significance of the jump in Lx is though. I also wonder what the significance of the jumper I have across the MM leads is. Measuring Amp draw without the jumper I get 144mA. Adding the jumper the MM shows only 70 or 80mA. Maybe the jumper is taking half the load?

Though I shouldn't be doing it right now, I am charging four batteries off the primary. To my mind, that is OU. They are all coming up BIG TIME while the primary is barely losing ground, 12.34V to 12.19V over four days or so. I must be doing something right!

Warren
..

Warren, I wouldnt rely on anything except an analogue gauge to obtain your amp readings from, the digital just isnt precise enough in pulsed applications. The size of your battery up front is why your voltage is so slow to drop. 650 cca probably equates to a 60 amp hour battery and taking 100 - 200 ma out of this it is going to run a long time! You could probably take three amps out of this battery continuosly and still remain inside its C20.

On of the wonderful things of the sg monopole is its ability to charge multiple batteries on the back end without loading the front end any more. So saying, the more amp hours on the back that need charging the longer it will take, or so I have found.

I think you will find a solid core will decrease performance, there is a reason for the laminations which will become evident if you look at the way transformers are designed to minimize eddy currents etc. You can only test though if you dont believe me I think the protruding core will have some effect on performance, perhaps a positive one, and interesting page to look at is here www.totallyamped.net/adams regarding all kinds of related phenomenon. Particularly the later pages.

While you may be charging multiple batteries on the back end be aware that this doesnt equate to OU automatically. You need to add up the amp hours on the front and back and see if they are equal. Also, battery condition comes into play, especially if you have damaged or old batteries on the back end.

I had a 20 amp hour battery that could be charged by a 1.3 amp hour battery, which by anyones book would equate to OU no? NO.

The 20 amp hour was significantly damaged, its voltage jumping up to 15+ with only 30 ma input on the front end. The thing is it never went down under charge, a sure sign of internal damage or sulfation. Under load the 1.3 amp hour out performs the 20 amp hour within 30 seconds. Your second battery sounds like it is significantly damaged (you got it for free no? so no complaints) and while the SG will charge it (where a conventional charger wont) you will most likely find it doesnt have the ability to hold that charge or perform any useable work. I could be wrong, and maybe with alot of work it can heal somewhat, it is unlikely however that it willever be of much use.


2 identical looking batteries may be very different under loading conditions. But good work, sounds like you're starting to feel out your machine

Ren? Thanks for the link. I can see there is a lot of valuable reading there. Ahhhh, there is so much reading to do and so little time to do it. And, the more I read and the faster I read, the less I can remember!

I'll look around for an analogue ammeter. I inherited a bunch of do-it-yourself electronic equipment but haven't looked at the stuff really close yet. I am sure there is one in the lot. In the meantime, I'll do what I can and record what I see with what I have readily available.

Nothing more to report right now.

Warren
..

I tried today to replicate the 1Hy coil. No luck, not even close. It must be some kind of transient fluke that happened.

After struggling all day I finally went in to measure the flukey coil. It now measures 90mHy! I'd sure like to find out what happened here. Maybe my measurer was adding or something. The best I could get was 258mHy out of all the trials today. Nothing seems to make any sense now so I'm going to rest a day or so and then go at it again.

I appreciate all the imput.

Warren
..

Dear All,


today I'm try my five-fillar coil to my SG, 4 x 0.75mm power wire and 1 x 0.5mm for trigger all 1000 turn parallel not twist.

Speed 180 Rpm with 24vdc battery system.
current draw from primary battery 225mA and current input only 85ma to charging Battery.

I'm using Analog AVO meter.

The circuit I use as per basic one using 1 pc MJL21194, 2N4001 diode and 2N4007. My goal how to charge battery as quick as possible with the minimum current draw from primary battery with the save way.

Please advice to get better result.

Thank you and regards,

Selamatg

Hi Selamatg. You will get significant improvements by driving the other three power windings with a master slave configuration. Look further back in this thread for the schematic, page 3 or thereabout if I remember correctly.

Ok, again I have assembled my mulit-coiler and works for a while then it toasts the last resistor every time. I have increased the size of the last coil, to no avail. My goal is to goto 24 V, but every time I try it I hear the sizzle of my transistors. I HATE transistors BBQ

Anyhow, my Pot is a 5 W so always does fine, my resistors went up to 2 W they do fine, but the last transistor always gets cooked.

I am using 100 Ohm resistors in my trigger coils. I am all ears for what I am doing wrong.

mart

show me a detailed pic or schematic for your setup Mart. If the transistor that is getting fried isnt the master it might be that the resistance into its base isnt equal to the resistance of the other bases. What transistors are you using? What coil dimensions?

Thank you Ren for your reply,


Is below schematic you are talking about? how if I use my old coil (4 power + 1 trigger) with additional transistor and diode? or I can left 1 wire unconnected.
Please advice before I start up again.

As per video I saw, Mr. Tom Barden says " the output to charge battery is bigger than input from primary battery about 8 times" how basically to measure that?

Sorry, I have too many question for you..my knowledge with this stuff are very little.

Thanks and regards,

Selamatg

Attached Images

ssg5.JPG (20.4 KB, 35 views)

Thats the one. It is a master/slave configuration. The master is the first winding/coil which is configured in traditional sg style. The slaves are the additional coils/windings that are triggered every time the master fires. Have as many slaves as you want, but the resistance must be equal in all bases of all transistors.

Hi Ren,
Thank you for your quick reply.


My circuit as per schematic above has been finish.
the picture attached.
There is big improvement is quicker for recharge the battery but still draw the primary battery quick also.

Is that related with my magnet? because I use round small magnet 25mm diameter ceramic type but very weak. That from my kids toys. The rectangular one will coming soon. Hope before end of this week.

Look the input still bigger that the output (not measure yet) even improvement than my previous result using other circuit.

Best reagrds,

Selamatg

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	CRIM0002.JPG (104.4 KB, 21 views)
	CRIM0008.JPG (129.8 KB, 24 views)

Dear All,

I just thinking if using wide magnet will charge quicker. as per picture attached.

Please advice.


Regards,

Selamatg

Attached Images

BEDINI MAGNET SETUP.JPG (28.2 KB, 36 views)

It is the same as selamatg posted.

I have done some experimenting, if I add more resistors to the trigger coil of the one that gets hot it cools the resistors. However, it nullifies that coil.

At least I now have 2 coils working without heat hurray hurray.

Mart all I can suggest is to rewire your whole circuit, adding more resistance to one coil only will most likely cause its base to receive less or no triggering compared to the other bases, so it will cool it because its not being triggered. One thing I found with my latest trifilar was that I needed to connect the bases together with a copper tab and then run my resistance off that. Its a neat trick to ensure all bases are on the same playing field. Have a look at my latest youtube vid if you have questions. And triple check all connections, all emitter to base diodes and make sure each emitter has a solid earth connection (-).

Selamatg, good to see you got your circuit working. I cant tell from the picture but are all your transistors mounted on a conductive surface? IF this is the case you need to isolate each one from the other, the back of the transistor is the Collector pin as well. You can choose to mount them on separate heatsinks or you can cut a little insulation pad out of a suitable material, gasket paper perhaps. IF the pad is conductive you have all collectors joined BEFORE the output diode, when they should be joined AFTER the 1n4007 (or equivalent).

Also in regards to the magnet question, I have found to get the best results with smaller magnets, preferably square or rectangular. Remember the magnet is the source of induction and thus it acts like our switch. A larger, stronger magnet will act like a larger stronger switch. The longer and stronger our switch comes on the more current it will draw. Id try to match the magnet size to the width of your core, as seen in most of Bedinis tech drawings.

Good work guys.

Yes, I am going to bite the bullet and redo the coils.

Ok....

I keep hearing everyone whisper you must match the resistance of the resistors to the coil to the battery.

I think I will measure the ohms of the present coils, then after once I have redone them.

But the question in my mind is...

how do I match the ohm of the coil to the battery to the base resistor?

Ren,
I put electric insulator under the transistors already, so all transistors only connected after 1N4007 diode.

Selamatg

1.8 ohms on second coil.

3.7 ohms on first coil.

( my fault unbalanced coils. )

It is actually harder to upload the photo than to make a spool, or so I think.

Anyway, here is a picture of the five steps I make building a spool from a discarded CD case.

I see the photo IS included in this post.

My labor is cheap and the parts are free!

Warren
..

Attached Images

DVC00562.JPG (36.0 KB, 32 views)

Very creative!