Watched the video, VERY nicely done with the split screen.

I now see that you are counting the lines on the rotor to determine the number of pulses. what did you use for marking the lines? I am thinking of taping a black paper on top of my rotor to find get the number of pulses mine is using.

I am thinking we have a target of getting the most charge for the least amount of energy being pulled from the primary battery.

Suggestion for testing this.

We pull a battery down to a resting voltage of say 12.5 V Then we test given a 2 hour period for a given pulse method. We then load the battery with a given load and bring it back down to the 12.5 point. Then we do the same with another pulse etc.... I am thinking that we should be able to see a pattern emerging of which is the best charging method.


The trouble can be if we are using sulfated batteries, this can really mess up our results.

Since I have added the VX additive to my batteries, 5 of the batteries no longer charge back up to same levels they were before However, the others are doing fine, they are consistant and are charging very well. With these I may experiment with the choke, and the Radiant soup method. I was considering aluminum foil....

Thanks for the video, it helped me to understand the led method more clearly.

I put a disc of black card on top of the rotor then marked it with a white pen (tipex / white-out would be good)

I agree that it is time to start doing controlled load tests... I just got 4 brand new identical 24ah batteries for the job. In the process of conditioning them but load testing is the next thing on my to do list

I have a theory why I can achieve shorter pulses. I think there are two trigger signals leaving the trigger coil even when it is pulsing only once (with the choke) but the second signal is delayed for so long that the incoming magnet cuts it off before it reaches the transistor. if the choke is omitted then both those signals would reach the transistor and it would produce 2 short pulses of equal length to the single pulse I get with the choke. Still don't know why it is faster compared to the amp draw though

linesrg most of us have built ones to spec. I have, down to the rods and mljs etc. The beauty of experiment is the learning process it provokes

"Adjust the base resistance to the absolute lowest value you can get it and then replace it with a fixed resistor."

I find I get less amp draw with higher values of resistance.

by the way guys. The trifilar I have built eats car batteries for breakfast 500 ma input 95 ma output.

ren,

You're quite correct the highest resistance you can get - bit of a blonde moment there.

Guys when carrying out load tests be aware initial results can be misleading. In some cases repeated identical tests over a fortnight can produce very different results to the first one.

Regards

Richard

Good Evening All,

A few posts back somebody suggested that they didn't think biasing a core was a good idea.

One of Bedini's patents (6392370) actually has a permanent magnet attached to the cores.

Additionally interesting results were reported by Emmett Butler with a solid state SG using a magnet at either end of the core.

From a simplistic point of view if the core is mildly biased then you overcome the inertia involved in establishing the field from cold is how I see it.

Some few years back somebody was kicking the idea round of placing a magnet on the back end of an SG coil.

I haven't tried any of these things myself.

Regards

Richard

I'm sure there has been a discussion somewhere about using magnetized cores in these motors... can't find the thread Im thinking of but here is a little something I found from Peter

from -> Electric Motor Secrets

I suppose what I am thinking about would turn a normal core slightly magnetic?

If I wanted to try and bias a core if iron or steel ( like a bolt ) I would heat it up red hot ( no windings please ) and attach a magnet to the bottom and allow it to cool as slow as possible ( like in a box of dry fine sand ). To make it even stronger attach magnets to both ends and place a "C" clamp of steel to conduct magnetism.

Just a thought?

Dodeca

If you try that don't use Neo's neo's can be destroyed with heat.

Annealing ( which gets rid of magnetism in a object ) sound like what you are doing with the heat. ) I am not sure what you believe the heat will gain you with the bolt. But sounds like an interesting idea.

mart

very nice video Sep.

To further your research on lowering input amperage, here is an interesting result from my testing. I don't have proper measuring equipment so I'm not sure if this is a real result but maybe someone with better gear can check it out.

I was running a standard setup (except using 14.4v cordless drill nicads) and had a second battery hooked up in parallel to the supply. Startup ohms were 635. Once running steady, I placed a connection from the charging battery (-) ONLY to the second supply battery (+). My current draw immediately dropped by a factor of 10 from 200ma to 20ma. Rpm dropped only slightly (I have no tach yet to provide exact amout.) Interestingly, charge volts immediately increased from 16.67 to 17.22.
Nothing fried or even warmed up. The system ran smoothly at a steady 20ma draw for 6 hrs. all the while showing the higheest charge voltages I have recorded to date. It would be great if this turned out to be a method to redirect some of the charge voltage back to supply, but some of you with better gear will have to confirm this experiment. I did note that it is harder to tune the pot to find the sweet spot under these conditions. Much larger changes to resistance are necessary to show any movement in the amp draw or rpm under these conditions.

Good luck

That is a really interesting effect! Could you post a schematic showing how you wired the batteries please?

By the way guys, new vid here: YouTube - amps in VS amps out

Comparison of amps in vs amps out. Enjoy.

Hi Sep,

Here is the schematic for the variant. Hope you can decipher it ok for test purposes. Just let me know if it is not understandable.

link... [url]www.egroup2.com/Everett-Variant-Schematic.jpg

??? isn't the negative of the charging battery connected to the positive of the primary anyway?

Yes it is,

None the less, I am still showing the results posted earlier??? Perhaps the second input batt wired in parellel has something to do with the results? I have no logical explanation or even a hypothesis, at this time.

hmmm Maybee the gauge of wire you are using? maybe you are allowing more thru a bottle neck? might be why the other wire works well, but just a guess.

I am resetting for another test this evening, I will try to be more specific on the exact startup and operating parameters and will post a couple of Pics of the actual rig for comments by those who have more experience.

Im sorry if I seem skeptical but I cannot see the difference it would make El-tigre. And 200ma to 20ma is a HUGE drop, the lowest I can run one of my energizers consistently on is 30ma. Perhaps there is something I have over looked.

One question, what are you using to measure current draw? Perhaps it is something specific to Ni-Cads as most of us here havent charged them....

Hi Ren, Don't be sorry, be skeptical! This is research!
I couldn't see why this variant would make a difference either, so I am struggling to explain it, it is quite possible I am reading something incorrectly and thanks for your interest...
I am measuring current draw using a standard digital multimeter (GB Instruments GDT 11) I cross checked it with a cheap digital multimeter knockoff and they both read the same. If you refer to post 492, I am measuring amps between the (+) of input battery #1 and the transistor.

Theremart, I doubt wire size has anything to do with this effect as I have tried it with different leads. Maybe it is a Nicad idiosyncracy??

Hi Testers,

here are some specs and pics for evaluation. Is there something real here?
Can anyone confirm with their apparatus?
(Please refer to post 492 for schematic labelling)

prestart separate readings
volts B1=16.47 B2=16.92 B3(charge)=14.22
810 ohms. (*add 408 ohms to all numbers for hard wired resistor)
when B1 & B2 & B3 connected before rotation B1&B2=16.68, B3=14.40
(without the variant connected)
after stabilizing to full speed rotation B1 & B2=16.02 at 200ma. B3 = 16.30v.
now it gets interesting...
the variant connection is added and the readings after 16 minutes operation are are:
B1 & B2=15.87v at 30ma. B3 = 16.43v.
(60 minutes later B3 is 16.94v) and the amps are still 30ma.
(85 minutes in, B3 reads 17.19v and amps=30ma.
stopped it for ohm reading = 524 restart at same settings no problem)
(about 2.5 hrs in readings are B1 & B2=14.98v at 30ma. B3 = 17.72v).
last observation, when resistance reduced as low as possible, current reading was
50ma and charge voltage reads 18.11 and the rotor keeps on turning...


Please feel free to ask any questions or for any additional readings that
I can take that may help to explain this.

hope the pics work


(It's a 7 neo rotor not 6)

Ok Heres what you need to do El tigre to confirm your results. Firstly change the battery in your multimeter, I cant be certain, but most models have a little battery icon pop up when it is flat. This can make ALL the difference. Secondly, dont bother reading amp draw with a digital

You need an analogue gauge, it has been suggested to place it in the negative leg of the circuit too. IF an analogue panel meter gives you identical results then your on to something!

Good luck