I checked RPM with my tach meter.

I will have to check my charging rate with my spread sheet, I has not been climbing very quickly, but I have changed many things about my system.

But, mind you I am using GOLF cart batteries. and only one coil SSG. And... to add more varibles I have added the solution to the batteries that desolves the sulfate from the plates that Aaron suggested. ( too many variables to for me to give an accurate idea now). I think I will pull the coil off and check it again. I bet the charge rate will go up but... again old golf cart batteries.

I am now using ceramic skateboard bearings. The hard drive bearings could not take speeds over 1,100 RPM. ( considering I have 6 lbs of PVC and magnets I could see why )

I first tried using a spare coil that I had with 20 Gauge wire that had no effect.

I then got in today my 8 relays for my battery swapper. One of them is rated for 12V. So I tried one kind on it and immediate results. But... I have not checked for voltage increase.

Since I have no scope, I have to ask the question what would Nicoli Telsa do since he had no scope. ( I bet he would buy a scope )


But, I was happy to see the RPM the same and the amps drop. Charging may be a factor...

Hello Seproth and All,
This is an interesting circuit and I posted a message to Daftman complementing his work. But regardless of what he says it IS the so called BEMF that is charging his secondary battery.

Regards Lee…

PS. Still working on the video.

Hello, i was wondering if I could use 1/8 Lincoln welding rods instead of the 1/16. I ask this because Ace and Homedepot dont have 1/16 only 1/8 and bigger. But I think one of the Bedini sight said we could i quote:
"Rough cut okay. Diameter not crucial, could be smaller by 50% or larger by 100%."

Could somebody please tell me if I can use a larger welding rod?
I would like to know today, so I can hop on my horse and ride on to the Homedepot hardware store.

Thank you for yas help.

You shouldnt have any problem. You can get it running with a solid bolt so a thicker core rod will be ok.

Hi Guys,
I can't link to my previous post, I'm new to this interface with lots of smily faces??? I have posted the video of seph's choke in the trigger circuit. It's a bit rough as I rushed it but hopefully you will inderstand what i'm banging on about.

YouTube - Inductor In Trigger Circuit

Regards Lee....

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the very nice presentation of Seps idea of the inductor on the trigger coil and pointing out all the intricacies in the video so that a laymen can understand it.I just want to know did you find that your particular setup had Less rpm's with the inductor in the circuit? .Again thx for the great video .


-Gary


p.s. I think i may have just ruined a battery on a load test cause I could'nt help but to watch that vid a couple times to understand it completly

Greetings Bedinites, I've been lurking for a while now and have built a functioning unit. (many thanks to introvertibrate for great schematics and explanations)

I have been experimenting all my life and am quite strong in the mechanical fields but not so much electronically, so therefore my questions may demonstrate a lot of novice tendencies... that said, some of you with superior electronifications may be able to explain this to me.

My setup consists of a 5 inch rotor carrying 6 3/4 inch neos driven by a single bifilar coil.

the batteries are 14.4v nicad portable drill type and the system runs fine. I have 2 pots in the system, one coarse and one 400 ohm that I use for very fine adjustment. this permits me to tune the system torun at a sweet spot of about 190ma. on a full supply charge of 15.9v. it runs about 8hrs and puts out 16.57v max on the charge side.

Now for the tricky bit... when the supply battery discharged the voltage quickly fell to about 4.5v, but I noticed the system was still drawing about 150ma and still reading 16.46v on the charge side and this was without the rotor turning at all. (A slight transformer hum was audible from the coil which someone has mentioned before) I let this condition run for about 2 more hours when the final supply voltage was 1.66 and amps were 30ma. Charge voltage was still 16.28 (0.01 higher than the disconnected charge battery)

This leads me to question the need for a rotor at all? why not introduce an oscillation circuit into the mix and deliberately induce the self excitation and continue to extract the back emf from the coil? You would need some way to limit the starting supply amps as they read about 300ma if the self excitation begins with the supply batt at full charge.

Apologies if this has been discussed before, all comments are truly appreciated.

p.s. I have confirmed that this charging apparatus can resurrect scrap batteries as I connected one destined for recycling to the circuit and it seems to be retaining a charge longer and longer with each charging cycle!

thanks and keep experimenting...

Great video Lee!

At the top right of the posts, you'll see a link called "permalink."

You can right click on that and "copy link location" (depends on browser) and copy that and then paste that in when you make a link as the URL for any specific post you want to link to.

You can past the link directly as a URL or you can type some text, highlight the text then click the icon with a globe and the 2 chain link icon to be able to post in a URL for the text link.

Hello

First off I just wanted to say I am really enjoying all the posts here and appreciate the professional attitudes. All these experiences are incredibly inspiring.

For some reason I keep frying the resistors between the trigger winding (North lead) and the base of my 2N3055. I've tried a 1k pot and a 680 ohm resistor and as soon as I turn it on they just smolder. The battery is a 12V 7Ah rechargeable, and I am using 20 AWG for the power and trigger windings on a 3 inch wide by 3 inch long spool. I have gas welding rods for the core material but am just trying to get it working before putting them in. I don't have a charging battery but have a neon lamp setup from collector to ground and it isn't blinking. The lamp is rated at 120 VAC so I am not sure if this is too much for the circuit. I don't have a 1N4007 in the circuit. I am following the schematic from the Starters Guide-One.pdf found at the Bedini_SG yahoo group.

I've tested the coil by hooking my battery to the N and S leads of the trigger and power coils separately and the coils work fine when separated from the circuit.

Has anyone experienced this before? If there is a post with a similar experience please let me know. I have only made it to page 8 so far on this thread.

Thanks!

At this setup I've noticed time and time again that a battery MUST be in place to accept a charge or the transistors will burn out. The energy you/we are producing HAS to go somewhere and the only place open is the primary battery through the transistor. It is my thinking that this creates a dead short at the transistor. I'm building my first SG right now and am just doing the electronics on it. I have all the parts BUT the 1k ohm pot.

Anyway, put a secondary battery in the circuit and see what that does.

Warren
..

I'd like to think it's because of the battery missing from the equation but I've seen too many examples where a setup is working without one. If I didn't have the neon on the collector going to ground I'd think the transistor would start getting hot as the coil discharges or I've blown it or something. I've checked it (transistor) for damage and it's still got the same beta as when I started. I'm going to try and locate a different neon as per the spec I'm using, plus get a couple pots that can handle a bit higher wattage.

Oh, also the coil itself makes a high pitched whining sound when I turn it on in this config. The rotor magnets aren't replused or attracted to the coil, and just holding a magnet over the top (North pole) of the coil feels like the magnetic field is constantly being canceled out (does that make any sense?).

Thanks for the response.

high pitch noise usually appears when the coils starts to self oscillate. That usually happens if the base resistance is too high.

For anyone who has not been involved with the Bedini SG group that was recently closed, I compiled the messages from John Bedini as he was posting them. I only have this from The end of Feb until a few days ago and it has a lot of valuable information that he has never really discussed openly before.

This link is the PDF: John Bedini SG yahoo group comments , it is 91 pages

It might take a few hours to go through this, but if you want to learn about the SG, it is best to hear straight from John.

Yes I belonged to that group, and I was shocked at the way it was closed.

It seems John and Sterling had a falling out?

theres a bedini sg group that i applied to joi last week but have not been activated yet (no word from them at all)... perhaps that is it... apparently it had a database of spec and performance of many people's ssgs that I thought would be really interesting. If that is the group does anyone have a copy of the database?

They have some great data there. What type of data are you looking for?

( if you are like me you want it all he he )

I'll try another transistor then as well as new resistors. Thanks Jetjis.

Great .pdf Aaron. Thanks for making this available!

Hello,

How long is it recommended to charge a battery for the first time with the SSG Charger?

There is a thread here that talks about charging times with the SSG.

If this is not a new battery, I recommend you check the fluid levels of the battery before you go much further to be sure you do not create excess HHO gas. But, I normally check the voltage of the battery, and I just leave it on till it reaches 13.5 - 15 V. This may take days, or may not happen at all if the batteries are in poor condition. The ssg cannot fix physical problems ( broken plates, or damage from overheating ) but, it does have a history of doing great recovery of batteries.