Message from Lee to Sephiroth regarding relay coil in the trigger circuit:

What he says has got me thinking... even I would expect the rpm to be lower with shorter pulses so perhaps it is something about my motor which benifits from the relay coil...

I think Lee may have found the answer. Possibly because my rotor is very light, has a small diameter, little friction and three coils the torque/wieght ratio is so high it goes into "rotor runaway"... and of course the amp draw generally increases as the rpm increases.

The shorter pulses reduce the torque (as indicated by the slower acceleration) to a point where less is wasted. So it is more efficient.

SO.... new challenge. I want to add drag to the rotor in a way that will provide extra charge to the batteries... tried adding a few coils around the perimeter of the rotor but they only charge the cap up to 6 volts so need bigger recovery coils... will let you guys know if anything interesting happens!

until then, I think this is still a pretty good modification for small rotor ssgs...

I just bulit the entire thing today but nothing happen. A bad sign is the batteries

are getting warm so something definetly wrong with it. i have good background

knowledge on the bedini motor but still something must be wrong with. If you

can give me some advice ,or maybe i can send u some pic if u can point some

thing out on the pic i going to send u would greatly be please. Didn't want to

solder all of my connection so instead i used alligator clips. Just in case i want to

replace my transistor. I don't know if it matter i solder all of the connection are

not. I want so bad to make the motor run, but the trobleshooting is me making so

upset.

My the parts i pick are the source of the problem here is a list of them

- Power Battery (werker wka12 1.3F 12v 1.3Ah Lead Acid)
- Charge Battery ( YUASA 12V NP2.3-12 2.3Ah)
- Potentiometer 1-Megohm Liner-Taper
- Transistor 2N3055
- Resistor 10K-Ohm 1/2 watt 5% tolerance
- Diode 1N4007 1000V & 1N4001 diode
- Alligator clips for connection expect transistor i solder 1N4007 & 1N4001 diode to the Base with Emitter and collector
-Magnets are facing north

The coil doesn't turn to a eletricmagnet i connect the batteries to it, but it's suppose to arract the magnets to the electricmagnet coil

I just bulit the entire thing today but nothing happen. A bad sign is the batteries

are getting warm so something definetly wrong with it. i have good background

knowledge on the bedini motor but still something must be wrong with. If you

can give me some advice ,or maybe i can send u some pic if u can point some

thing out on the pic i going to send u would greatly be please. Didn't want to

solder all of my connection so instead i used alligator clips. Just in case i want to

replace my transistor. I don't know if it matter i solder all of the connection are

not. I want so bad to make the motor run, but the trobleshooting is me making so

upset.

My the parts i pick are the source of the problem here is a list of them

- Power Battery (werker wka12 1.3F 12v 1.3Ah Lead Acid)
- Charge Battery ( YUASA 12V NP2.3-12 2.3Ah)
- Potentiometer 1-Megohm Liner-Taper
- Transistor 2N3055
- Resistor 10K-Ohm 1/2 watt 5% tolerance
- Diode 1N4007 1000V & 1N4001 diode
- Alligator clips for connection expect transistor i solder 1N4007 & 1N4001 diode to the Base with Emitter and collector
-Magnets are facing north

The coil doesn't turn to a eletricmagnet i connect the batteries to it, but it's suppose to arract the magnets to the electricmagnet coil

Hi Runnningrage,

Try to lower your resistance value.I would suggest eliminating the 1 megohm pot completly.Basically you have to much resistance and want around 680 ohm to begin and adjust up or down from there.Hope this helps

-gmeat


p.s. You should delete your post in electric motor secrets thread to save yourself a flogging from Peter as that thread is strictly for his motor design ideas.

Thank gmeat you have built on of the motor did you have problems with it before or every heard some have this much troubleshooting

Too much resistance on the transistor base should not get the batteries go warm. Sounds more like a short, that could be due to a fried transistor. Doublecheck your wiring and try a new transistor. Do you have a neon bulb across the emitter and collector of the transistor? DO NOT power the thing without any charging battery attached. Also if your batteries are going hot, try to measure their voltage before and after a quick test, this way, if the voltage after the test is considerably lower, then you got a short in the system, probably in the transistor. If it was a dead short, then your wires should get hot very quickly and the insulation would start to melt (you would smell that). But if your transistor is dead, it could let some moderate current to flow through - big enough to get the batteries to heat up, but small enough to leave the wires in tact. I noticed the same problem when I blew up one of my SSG transistors - it would not switch but instead let the current directly through, like a closed switch. In my case it was about 4 amps of current draw. If you had a direct short, there would be a lot more amps flowing and melting all the wiring
So I bet on the transistor.
Hope this helps.
Jetijs

Hi RunningRage! Good to see you here!

Have you managed to achieve rotation or are the batteries/transistor heating up as soon as you connect them?

Jetijs and gmeat are right, your resistance is WAY to high but that shouldn't be causing the batteries to heat.

Are you sure the emitter and base are the right way round? with the poles closest to you the resistor should be connected to the right hand pole. (I made and error at one point at the end of my video where I accidently flip-flopped the schematic )

When i researching on the bedini motor i want to have the best result. Even

if it was a beginner vision of the motor. I was told to make the wire a short a

possible. I hate to unsolder the wire again. First i going to switch the resistor

see if that help guys but it that false make wire longer. Nice quote Jetisjs;

even invention has it errors it's a test for the person who building it. To endure it with patient so it can reveal it secrects to you just like NIKOLA TESLA.

Who has seen the movie the Prestige. I was watching the movie Prestige the other day. Were David Bowie who played Nikola Tesla. The machine had have

many errors with the machine but if could harnest the power of machine it reveal its secrects. The bedini motor has it own secrects too charging many

batteries just running on one. Multiplication it reflect the same pricipales as the Nikola Tesla machine coping a man infinity amount of time. When batteries

are expose to this type of power you conduct electricity through uncommon materials like plastic. Where in the movie Tesla

demonstrated electricity can run through man without harming him, and power a load like a lightbulb. If we keep doing research on these bedini motor more,

more, secrect are going to come out. Then the world would know what they been missing.

If you really want a good charge replace the transistor and its driver winding with a reed switch. Leave the big diode in. Once you get the timing right you will see some cool stuff.

Can charge (1.3A12-1.3F 12v 1.3Ah AGM Sealed Non-spillable battery) with your car

What kind of reed switch in particular would be an allaround good r.witch to use for the ssg's?

I need to know if this (the bedini monopole radiant mechanical oscillateor Charger) uses 2# 22's (power coils) and 1# 26 (trigger coil).
Obviously, this is a tri-filar coil i just need to make sure of the sizes of the coils will some one please enlighten me?

Thanks for yas help!!!

mono_pole19 radiant mechanical oscillator charger.jpg

here is the schematic. sorry i forgot

just a little something I found interesting guys. I put a small uf rated cap between the base and the positive of the run battery and the amp draw dropped. Interestingly enough the voltage on the cap is higher than the battery??

and how this changed the RPM's?

im not too sure what or if it offers any advantage as yet, besides the primary drawing less. It slows down rotation, but allows you to use alot less trigger resistance. For example. I ran my trifilar perspex rotor on full resistance @ 24 volts and amp draw is 200ma +. With the cap in place it drops to less than 50 ma and I have to decrease resistance to find the sweet spot again. Dunno if it will actually amount to anything, just interesting.

Sephiroth,

Have you tried putting a small uf cap in parallel to your relay choke?

Anyway, do you have other systems to experiment with? Since you do get an increase in rpm with your choke, I think it is important to preserve that model. Would love to see others get higher rpm too... Lee didn't but maybe his choke had too many winds for his setup.

Aaron

theinventor- the reed switch I would use is something that can handle the voltage and current. It will arc and turn black and eventually burn out. So the bigger the better. I have had luck with the glass 25mm ones check supply houses for these things as they turn up often for real cheap.

Sephiroth, a cap in parallel with the inductor will probably just make it oscillate. Never mind

Aaron - I'll give it a go just to see what happens

my new batteries arrived today so looking forward to seeing how they respond!

Ren - How exactly have you hooked the cap to your circuit? Do you mean it is in parralell with the primary battery?

I have been putting a cap on the primary battery for some time, it seems to help smooth out the sudden draws.

Something I see very interesting to me, is I have seen someone put a bridge rectifier on the charging side... Still trying to figure out the advantages of that.